had smok alien for a week hate the baby beast no flavor

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fifamymaingame

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Went with an alien for my first mod i was going to get a battlestar but didnt want to wait another week went into local vape store only starter kit they had was alien for 70

Bought some pop clouds watermelon

Was using the default .4 ohm coil till the trigger got held in my pocket and started tasting awful and gave me short atomizer dont abuse protects

Moved on to the 0.15 coil at 60w to 80w the suggested watts im not tasting it like i was

Seem to be guzzling juice now too one tank dont last 8 hours at work (gas station)

I've watched alot of reviews on tons of rtas rdtas

I want to learn how to build i plan on ordering the coil master v3 kit but now i need to find the right tank

I perfer to vape at lower watts at 60 the vape feels super hot after 3 second pulls

Plus im not digging how hot my gold alien feels chain vaping

I like flavor use 0ml nicotine juices

Any advice tips or suggestions?

The sonys i got are the 2600 mahs not sure if they are good i need to buy a new charger and battery for the meter that comes with the coil master v3
 
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ddirtyvapes

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First of all, I would recommend trying a little more with the factory coils as long as you have the tank, while making sure you are a) doing everything you can to maximize the coil's performance and b) it sounds like you only tried one type of juice. You may not end up liking the Baby Beast, but it is an extremely popular tank and IMO not without good reason. There are a wide multitude of coil options and there may well be one that is a better fit for you. The .6s are nice for flavor, for example, and still put out decent vapor. Plus they work well at a much lower wattage than the rest, increasing your battery life regardless of the mod you're using. Indeed, you said you like lower wattages.

Beyond being useless once burnt, cotton really starts to go downhill once even singed, which is why it's important to prime the coil heads, putting a drop or two both in each wicking port and in the top. Let it sit for 5-10 mins before using. Start at a very low wattage and work up in 3-5W increments until you find a personal sweet spot. Starting low and slow also helps the coil and wick "settle in." There's no particular reason to vape at the recommended wattage unless you want to; personally, I find that .15 to do better at a lower wattage than they recommend... or at least on the lower side, especially with thicker juice.

It is not atypical for you to find that a 2mL tank isn't lasting 8 hours with a .15ohm coil head. That's why it has convenient top fill. Just bring a bottle of juice with you. If you use big bottles, you can always get something smaller to have on you. It's worth noting that those 2mLs work last much longer with the .6ohm coils I mentioned.

I'm a builder myself, so I'm not discouraging you from doing that if you have the interest. It just strikes me as silly to give up on a product you paid for that has replaceable parts that could greatly improve your experience. Unless you can categorically state otherwise, it might have been the juice itself.

Those Sonys could be VTC5s or VTC5As which have different continuous discharge ratings. If they're authentic, either are good batteries. The VTC5As give you a little more headroom. You are totally fine in either case if you are not going up to wattages above 150 or so, which it sounds like you're not. If you were to do so, the discussion is a little more complicated. If the batteries are not authentic, all bets are off. Where did you get them? Illumination supply, Li-On Wholesale, and IMR Batteries are among the gold standards for what is a vital component of your mod. I recommend only purchasing from one of those three, arguably in that order. But all three are great, and if you have real Sony VTC5s or 5As then you did good.

I don't want this to get any longer than it already is but I can certainly also recommend rebuildables if that's really all you want to do.

edit @djsvapour no, you don't need one, but might want one. It's just a builder's toolkit that has everything in one place and may be good for travel for someone who already has tools, anyway. The price usually isn't too awful for what's included, but IMO it's kind of overkill unless you're a mech-only user, and even then... It's got what you would expect from a Coil Master branded kit. One of their coil jig and rods, various tools (ceramic and bent-nose tweezers, pliers, scissors, screwdrivers, wire cutters, maybe something else I'm missing), a roll of wire, and a 521 Tab mini.
 
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Eskie

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I'll second @ddirtyvapes there are still lots of ways to make things work better. First, if you prefer a warm but not hot vape, and you don't like to go through too much juice, lose the 0.15 ohm. Put in a fresh 0.4 ohm coil, prime it well, and avoid an autofire in your pocket by locking the mod. After a few tanks like that you'll be in a better position to judge how that tank and juice work together.

Good luck!
 

djsvapour

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@djsvapour no, you don't need one, but might want one. It's just a builder's toolkit that has everything in one place and may be good for travel for someone who already has tools, anyway. The price usually isn't too awful for what's included, but IMO it's kind of overkill unless you're a mech-only user, and even then... It's got what you would expect from a Coil Master branded kit. One of their coil jig and rods, various tools (ceramic and bent-nose tweezers, pliers, scissors, screwdrivers, wire cutters, maybe something else I'm missing), a roll of wire, and a 521 Tab mini.

I checked it out and ordered the 521 Tab mini.

I'd forgotten that part of the price. Doesn't seem too bad overall.

Thanks! :)
 

ddirtyvapes

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No, definitely not terrible with that included in the price. It's basically $20 for a coil jig, pliers, screwdrivers, everything but the 521. It's a nice set. If I didn't already have a 521 tab and the rest of the materials besides the coil jig and bent nose pliers (mine broke yesterday lol), I'd be tempted too.
 

fifamymaingame

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So try 0.4 and 0.6 coils ok I'll go buy some tommrow local store giving 15 mls of juice with any purchase

Got my batteries from the store i got my gold alien kit I'll upload a picture

I want to get a battery charger asap and another pair of batteries

I can rock some coils for awhile see how it goes

Thanks for all the info i have my eyes on that pharoah rta or the smoant battlestar rta and coil master kit should i get v2 or v3? Both will let me test fire to see if its heating right?

Defo going to get a battery charger maybe a 2 at a time charger and keep back up pair in those cases

So what charger should i get perfer a wall charger
 

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Tonee N

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So try 0.4 and 0.6 coils ok I'll go buy some tommrow local store giving 15 mls of juice with any purchase

Got my batteries from the store i got my gold alien kit I'll upload a picture

I want to get a battery charger asap and another pair of batteries

I can rock some coils for awhile see how it goes

Thanks for all the info i have my eyes on that pharoah rta or the smoant battlestar rta and coil master kit should i get v2 or v3? Both will let me test fire to see if its heating right?

Defo going to get a battery charger maybe a 2 at a time charger and keep back up pair in those cases

So what charger should i get perfer a wall charger
Those look like my Sony VTC4's.
Here's a pic of my CM 521(not the mini) and my CM tool kit.
d0eaf7cc992f682d94d43ab6a8706279.jpg
dc82e7e6ac54dda22293766c95e487c5.jpg


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

Simar Sidhu

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BrotherBob

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Plus im not digging how hot my gold alien feels chain vaping
Welcome and glad you joined.
Might like to read:
Drip Vaping: Your Guide to Dripping e-Juice | Vape-Resource.com
2015: The Art of the Drip - A Dripping Primer | Spinfuel VAPE
(7) Information Resources for Your First RBA | E-Cigarette Forum
What is an Atomizer? E-Cig Terminology Simplified
Rebuildable Tanks Explained: RBAs vs RDAs vs RTAs vs RDTAs
I vape RDA's at 6-7 watts (1.5~2.0 ohms/30ga;4-6 turns;0.11 inch ID;Rayon wick) which produces a cooler vape with great taste. I also buy only deep well RDA's (Magma, Origen V1 & V3 etc.) which hold a mil or more of juice and last me 45 min. to an hour or more before refilling.
 

fifamymaingame

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I have been studying alot i been banned from .................. and fcombustion arent friendly this is my only hope

Im going to rock some .4 .6 coils in this baby beast i still don't get ohms and wats what different kind of vapes you get i just know i dont like higher watts kills me

Im going to get a charger today what do you guys reccomend?

Im not entirely sure what batteries i have or the limits on amps all that stuff kind of scares me i dont like taking these batteries out at all
 

ddirtyvapes

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If you have money to burn, a Nitecore SC2 (2-bay) will charge your batteries very quickly.

Otherwise, a Nitecore i2 (2-bay) or i4 (4-bay) should be great.

While this doesn't get to the heart of the matter, as a general rule, as ohm's INCREASE, the power (wattage) required to run them DECREASES. So you will need much higher wattage to run that .15 than you will a .4 or .6. Originally, all vaporizers used atomizers above 1.5ohm, even 2ohms. The switch to resistances less than 1ohm started picking up speed a few years ago.

The simplest e-cigs are just a battery that powers a complete electrical circuit. The same Ohm's Law you probably learned about in chemistry or some science class is what's behind calculations for power or resistance or what have you. I would do some reading on ohm's law in general first, and then if/when you have questions as it pertains to vaping, feel free to ask.

I recommend anyone subohming to have at least a passing familiarity with Ohm's Law, but it's much less important if you're not using a mechanical device and you are not.

IMO the most important thing for you right now in terms of "where" to vape those coils is, again, just starting low and slow and moving up incrementally to find what feels good for you.

I typically vape the .6 heads anywhere from 25-40W and the .4 heads at more like 35-50W, but you may find what you prefer is outside of those ranges.
 
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ddirtyvapes

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Also, I just got my Pharaoh RTA and love it. I'm taking a quick look at the Battlestar now; I'm not that familiar with it. One big benefit of the Pharaoh for a new builder is the interchangeable decks. You may find one easier to build on than another, and actually the default deck is nice and easy. The downside to the Pharaoh is that the default deck is really meant for big, complicated coils... but you can absolutely get away with something simpler on, say, the Velocity-style (2-post, 4 holes) deck.
 
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fifamymaingame

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I think im going to stay with .4 ohms i dug 40 watts

The .15 im using now i use at 60 70 and i dont know makes me cough and hardly any vapor could just be me tho

Noticed im at about 20 21 amps using the .15 these battires really scare me

I tried watching ohms law but id didnt nothing to help me lol im pretty bad at understand stuff with numbers

Im going to buy some .4 coils today and stick with 40 w for awhile

Till i learn my battries hope you guys dont get mad at me like vug and fc have

This the nitecore you suggest?
Never mind its from imr battires and its 20 bucks i searched vape crawler
 
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ddirtyvapes

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Ignore the amps your board is showing. The Chinese mods that show "amp draw" are calculating based on ohm's law, but that's not really how it works with regulated mods. Regulated mods draw their power from the chip instead of directly from the battery. You do not need to be worried AT ALL about vaping at 60-70W on a 2-battery device as long as your batteries are legit. Whether or not you enjoy it is another story.

As for ohm's law, like I said, ask any specific questions you have about it and we can help. It does matter much less with regulated mods but helps to have a passing understanding. Just continuing to vape and read and everything will help you learn; it will click when you least expect it. You 'use' ohm's law every time you set a VW device, whether or not you're totally aware of what you're doing.

The .4 coils should provide a nice vape at 40W IMO. Make sure you get the coil wet first and when you take your FIRST puff, consider starting down at like 10W and going up slow until you reach 40. Don't just go straight to 40. This will help the coil warm up.

No one is going to get mad at you because you don't know your batteries, although I believe it's against forum rules to mention other boards by name. It's not the end of the world, though, just letting you know. That's why it says "........." in your other post where I think you typed out a forum name.

Truly any modern Nitecore charger will be fine. I recommended the SC2 because it has lightning-fast charging capabilities but it is expensive. I use i2s and i4s.
 
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fifamymaingame

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I'll have to study coils and rtas more i just want a good low wattage tank with good juice consevering and good mls i do not like the baby beast im always having to refill it after like 10 minutes

I've yet to try tc with the alien im still on v1.2.1 and hear i need nickle coils?

To much to know tbh
 
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ddirtyvapes

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It is a lot to take in, for sure.

No-- you don't need nickel coils. I mean, yes, Nickel coils are for temp control and you need temp control to use nickel coils.

But Nickel, along with Titanium, are older temp control materials.

Stainless steel (316L primarily, but other grades, too) is the gold standard TC material these days. So look for stainless steel wires if you're interested in TC. The huge benefit to Stainless over Nickel and Titanium is that it can also be vaped in wattage mode.

If you find you like the .4 ohm coil more in the Baby Beast at the right wattage, SMOK also makes a Big Baby Beast that holds more than twice the amount of the Baby and takes the exact same coils.

Otherwise, there are endless options for something else. Many tanks are-- obviously-- much larger and require less frequent fills.

Just try not to jump the gun and do your research. For example, the Pharaoh or Battlestar are definitely not low wattage tanks. The Pharaoh has tons of airflow so you may like using that at higher power than you like the Baby Beast, but if you're truly looking for low wattage, there are other ways to go.

When vaping was new to the U.S., we vaped at 6-9W basically. So what do you, as a new vaper, consider a "low wattage tank"? Under 30W? Under 50? 75?
 
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fifamymaingame

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They set the thing at 40 watts and i left it till i killed the coil

My buddy goes at 100 watt but i dont think he uses the right coils he has the big baby and the tfv12 cloud beast and everytime i hate how high he has it at

So looks like im looking at a single coil rta for low watt?

I don't want a juice guzzler

Alien sucks at tc so i doubt I'll use it i might end up getting a battlestar mod one day
 

ddirtyvapes

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Yeah. Once your coil is warmed up you can set it and leave it at a wattage you like. It just really helps to work up slowly for the first 15-20 puffs.

Some of the coils for the TFV12 can handle 100W and well above. I also do not like vaping that high, definitely not on a factory coil and almost never in tanks. Rarely on an RDA. I suppose you might be able to vape the .15 or .2 baby coils at 100W, but I think they start to get burnt tasting at 70 so.... idk...

Yes, you may well find a single coil RTA a better fit for you. The biggest problem is that many of those ARE small and require relatively frequent fills, but like (for example) I just got a Wotofo Serpent Alto which is also only 2mL, but it lasts longer than the baby beast does because I've got a .8 ohm coil in there. Some single coil RTAs are larger but many are focused on flavor, which is helped by a smaller size.

The truth is that none of the cheap chinese mods are great at TC. Some are better than others. I can't speak for the battlestar but it is definitely a well-loved mod at that price point. Arguably, though, if you want to ensure that you are getting an ACCURATE TC experience, it's pretty much FSK chips, DNA chips, or SX/Yihi chips.

But I use the TC functions on my cheap mods all the time. Most of them work fine. They're just much more likely to be putting out a higher or lower temperature than displayed, and can be fiddly.
 
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