Hades Mini from Gearspek.

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RaptorD.Meezus

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Does anybody know anything about this mech? I've been eyeballing it for a few weeks now, but the only information I can gather about it is from the Gearspek website, the Amazon listing, and the video review on YouTube. As a n00b vaper looking to make the move from an eGo VV Vision Spinner II clone, I was wondering if this would be a good first step into mechanicals.

Hades Mini – GearSpek
 

snork

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Does anybody know anything about this mech? I've been eyeballing it for a few weeks now, but the only information I can gather about it is from the Gearspek website, the Amazon listing, and the video review on YouTube. As a n00b vaper looking to make the move from an eGo VV Vision Spinner II clone, I was wondering if this would be a good first step into mechanicals.

Hades Mini – GearSpek
Since that mod comes with a hybrid-style top cap, you'll absolutely have to make certain the atomizer you put on it is compatible with such an arrangement and know exactly what you're doing. I would suggest to any new vaper to use a model with a standard 510 connection rather than a hybrid type, for safety reasons.
 

RaptorD.Meezus

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Since that mod comes with a hybrid-style top cap, you'll absolutely have to make certain the atomizer you put on it is compatible with such an arrangement and know exactly what you're doing. I would suggest to any new vaper to use a model with a standard 510 connection rather than a hybrid type, for safety reasons.

I've been looking at Nemesis clones as well. Would one of those be good for a starter?
 

snork

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I've been looking at Nemesis clones as well. Would one of those be good for a starter?
I would say yes, and at some point there are hybrid caps available for it too if that's the way you'd choose to go.
There are people more informative than I who'll be along shortly I suppose, I just wanted to head you off at the pass.
 

duc916

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+1 on the Nemesis as a first mech. Paid it forward to my newbie bro-in-law with complete confidence in the mod, and he loves it.

As far as Nemesis hybrid adapters, I had one that I never found a way to live with. The problem is, removing the top-cap shortens the overall battery length by almost 1/2", so the switch no longer makes contact with a standard tube. I couldn't find anyone who makes 18650 tubes that are "hybrid-compatible", 1/2" shorter than standard. Tried those silly magnetic spacers on the battery positive post for a day and decided that was too ridiculous to live with.

Whatever you decide, if you get one with silver-plated pins (the parts that make contact with the battery and atty) instead of bare copper or brass, you'll save yourself a lot of unnecessary headache from tarnish.
 
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RaptorD.Meezus

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Honestly, I didn't even know what the hybrid part meant, lol. Like I said, I'm still a n00b and trying to figure out what would be a good next step. I've been doing a lot of reading, trying to figure out battery safety information and such. Everyone keeps recommending regulated box mods, but I don't want anything fancy, just a simple workhorse that's going to give me nice flavor and vapor production. I'm not trying to go subohm or anything, but I would like to get into RDAs/RBAs.
 

snork

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Honestly, I didn't even know what the hybrid part meant, lol. Like I said, I'm still a n00b and trying to figure out what would be a good next step. I've been doing a lot of reading, trying to figure out battery safety information and such. Everyone keeps recommending regulated box mods, but I don't want anything fancy, just a simple workhorse that's going to give me nice flavor and vapor production. I'm not trying to go subohm or anything, but I would like to get into RDAs/RBAs.
I commend you! Yes, people these days recommend regulated mods for new users, these days with the sub ohm hype it's surely the safest way to go. But there's no reason a mechanical can't be in the hands of an informed new vaper. You just happened to ask about one with a feature that's best left for a little further down the road.
 

Thrasher

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+1 on snork's post

But heck yea, get a decent nemi clone and good to go.
There's a reason 40 other models copy the design
I have a brass, ss and trying to find a copper one in stock or not overpriced.
One of my favorite mods and I own several authentic brands.

My brass one hits like a monster I run a kayfun on it at .9 ohms and its a tough little workhorse. With a panny 2900 I make it all day no problem. Nothing to dirk with, fill the tank pop in a fresh cell off to work
 
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RaptorD.Meezus

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+1 to all of you! You're all super helpful and I really appreciate it. The guys at my local B&M, in addition to selling me this crap Cool Fire I at full price, don't seem to be very helpful unless you already know what you're doing. They're just all about the money, and are too preoccupied to sit and have a chat to help you figure things out, but so far everyone on this forum has been really good, nice, informative, and knowledgeable. I'm glad I've made the decision to join this community. :)

Now: if I were to get a Nemmy, what kind of batteries would you recommend, and what RDAs/RBAs? How big of a factor does the construction material play as far as conductivity and voltage drop? I know I shouldn't just go with something I think looks nice, but it's just SO TEMPTING! My heart is kind of set on a copper mod and a copper atty, but the black and gold(brass) Nemmy clone looks real good too. I know copper is super conductive, but how much would that actually affect me in vaping? bear in mind that I'm not cloud chasing or trying to subohm at all. If anything, I would be a flavor chaser.
 

snork

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+1 to all of you! You're all super helpful and I really appreciate it. The guys at my local B&M, in addition to selling me this crap Cool Fire I at full price, don't seem to be very helpful unless you already know what you're doing. They're just all about the money, and are too preoccupied to sit and have a chat to help you figure things out, but so far everyone on this forum has been really good, nice, informative, and knowledgeable. I'm glad I've made the decision to join this community. :)

Now: if I were to get a Nemmy, what kind of batteries would you recommend, and what RDAs/RBAs? How big of a factor does the construction material play as far as conductivity and voltage drop? I know I shouldn't just go with something I think looks nice, but it's just SO TEMPTING! My heart is kind of set on a copper mod and a copper atty, but the black and gold(brass) Nemmy clone looks real good too. I know copper is super conductive, but how much would that actually affect me in vaping? bear in mind that I'm not cloud chasing or trying to subohm at all. If anything, I would be a flavor chaser.
Dang, I knew there had to be a reason I got out of bed today.
Voltage drop in most circumstances is not noticeable and irrelevant. Yeah, some people will jump all over me for saying that but unless your hobby is wringing every last thousandth of a volt and channeling it to a piece of wire then it makes little difference. That's a cool hobby, don't get me wrong, so is knitting. In my mind though, the first priorities are ease of use, reliability, ease of maintenance, and whether it looks good. You'll get so many opinions it'll make your head spin so I'll stay out of that except that I think many people would agree a Nemesis is an excellent choice. I'd certainly suggest a genuine Atmomixani Nemesis but maybe you can think about that later. ;)
 

duc916

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Voltage drop in most circumstances is not noticeable and irrelevant.
True, if you're not sub-ohming.

It's a matter of voltage dividers.... good old math. A 0.1 ohm resistance across your mod in series with a 0.4 ohm coil is going to drop 20% of your battery voltage, so a freshly charged 4.2V battery will only get 3.4V to your coil. Well, that would just... suck. Some people don't know the difference. Some do. A good antioxidant grease applied where it's needed prevents this (and silver plated pins don't hurt either).
 

RaptorD.Meezus

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True, if you're not sub-ohming.

A 0.1 ohm resistance across your mod in series with a 0.4 ohm coil

How do you know if that's what your mod has? Is that in a regulated mod, or a mechanical? If it's the latter, how do you figure out the resistance of your mod?
 

snork

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True, if you're not sub-ohming.

It's a matter of voltage dividers.... good old math. A 0.1 ohm resistance across your mod in series with a 0.4 ohm coil is going to drop 20% of your battery voltage, so a freshly charged 4.2V battery will only get 3.4V to your coil. Well, that would just... suck. Some people don't know the difference. Some do. A good antioxidant grease applied where it's needed prevents this (and silver plated pins don't hurt either).

How do you know if that's what your mod has? Is that in a regulated mod, or a mechanical? If it's the latter, how do you figure out the resistance of your mod?

*Ahem* I assume you're taking it from here, duc916?
 

duc916

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How do you know if that's what your mod has?
It was just an example, but a very realistic one.


Is that in a regulated mod, or a mechanical?
Mechanical.


If it's the latter, how do you figure out the resistance of your mod?
Without a milliohmmeter that can cost thousands of dollars, the best you can do is interpolate it using voltage drop readings with a tank meter. Standard DMM's don't have enough resolution to give you any meaningful resistance readings. There are plenty of ECF threads already on how to do that.


The point I was making was if you're going to use a mech to subohm, and I think most people do, you need to do some due-diligence to keep its contacts free from oxidation to get it to perform as expected. You don't need to be able to measure a mech mod's resistance if you maintain it.
 
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snork

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It was just an example, but a very realistic one.



Mechanical.



Without a milliohmmeter that can cost thousands of dollars, the best you can do is interpolate it using voltage drop readings with a tank meter. Standard DMM's don't have enough resolution to give you any meaningful resistance readings. There are plenty of ECF threads already on how to do that.


The point I was making was if you're going to use a mech to subohm, and I think most people do, you need to do some due-diligence to keep its contacts free from oxidation to get it to perform as expected. You don't need to be able to measure a mech mod's resistance if you maintain it.
Oh thank God you came through.
 

RaptorD.Meezus

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It was just an example, but a very realistic one.



Mechanical.



Without a milliohmmeter that can cost thousands of dollars, the best you can do is interpolate it using voltage drop readings with a tank meter. Standard DMM's don't have enough resolution to give you any meaningful resistance readings. There are plenty of ECF threads already on how to do that.


The point I was making was if you're going to use a mech to subohm, and I think most people do, you need to do some due-diligence to keep its contacts free from oxidation to get it to perform as expected. You don't need to be able to measure a mech mod's resistance if you maintain it.

Yeah, like I previously stated, I'm not really looking to get into subohming for quite a while yet. I just really want something I can take nice big pulls off of. I'm still struggling to get away from analogs, having slipped up several times, and I think it's mostly due to just being unsatisfied with my current setup, since I just feel like I'm not getting enough out of it. I'd really like to get into mechs because I feel like it would be the best way for me to grow and learn more about vaping and really let me fine-tune my experience with it, while a regulated mod, I feel, would just take all the fun out of it. If that makes any sense.

So for now, I'm just looking at clones of mech mods, trying to find something for a price I can live with, and trying to learn as much as I can. I thank you all for your help and your information.

Now, for a non-subohmer, would I just be able to pop my battery in there, throw my atty on and get to vaping? What should I know before trying to do so?
 

duc916

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Yeah, like I previously stated, I'm not really looking to get into subohming

You did say that, and I totally missed it... my bad. :?:

So anyway yes, throw your atty on any mech (I lean toward the Nemesis for you) and you'll be able to take nice long vapes without the hassle of a time limit.

Only other thing you might need is an eGo to 510 adapter, assuming you're on eGo style clearos... :)
 

RaptorD.Meezus

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You did say that, and I totally missed it... my bad. :?:

So anyway yes, throw your atty on any mech (I lean toward the Nemesis for you) and you'll be able to take nice long vapes without the hassle of a time limit.

Only other thing you might need is an eGo to 510 adapter, assuming you're on eGo style clearos... :)

Yes, currently I am using clearos, but I shall be upgrading to a nice RDA/RBA real soon. My birthday is next week, and my fiance might just be nice enough to get me some new hardware.

These are what I've had my eyes on:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10009160/2021908
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10009160/2111100
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10009160/1831602
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10009160/1721600
https://www.fasttech.com/product/1645500-nemesis-style-mechanical-mod-copper
https://www.longhornvapor.com/product/white-nemesis-hcigar/

Any input as to which one would be the best? I'm going to take a shot in the dark and guess that it's the HCigar one?

I could also use some help in picking a battery and an RDA/RBA. I really like the looks of the Vulcan RDA, and all the reviews I've read/seen have touted its brilliance. I think I want something with a decently deep juice well, so I don't have to refill it as often.
 
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duc916

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Any of those are fine, but I'd get one with silver-plated brass parts. When silver tarnishes it still remains conductive, and doesn't suffer hot-spots nearly as bad as bare copper/brass when they tarnish. That 5th one you linked (copper mod with silver contacts) is just like the one I recently gave away, and it hit like a beast.
 
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