Follow up: After about 30 min of using the stock gauge, it is now doing the same thing the lower gauge nickel did. Its giving me the temperature max signal but no vapor is being produced. Its almost as if its not firing. I even tried an extreme high resistance macro build and the issue continues. If anyone has any thoughts, please share. I will be contacting hana modz or the vendor tomorrow.
Hana Modz DNA 40! (In Blue)
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ouch. not really good for advertising the DNA40. I am expecting alot of issues with the chip untill a V2 comes out
I think the real problem is the nickel and not necessarily the chip. You just have to work up a very high resistance build (despite nickel being practically non-resistant). I have two new atomizers ordered that should be arriving in a couple days and I'm going to experiment to see if these make any difference along with working on getting the resistance high. I will follow up on this thread with the results. This is a completely new concept that those of us use to using kanthal will have to adapt to.
It seems this thread has faded but I owe it to Hana Modz and Evolve to give an update from my recent questionable posts. So after some experimenting and research, I've managed to create a working coil and here are the tricks to using the temperature control and nickel IMO:
1) Do not preheat and mold the coil. While this does leave a potential for hot spots, the temperature control prevents hot spots from causing any issues. When you preheat and tightly push the coils together, the resistance is going to drop. Furthermore, and I don't know the technical happenings as to why, but I don't think the nickel wire likes being preheated. It believe that a slight change in the chemistry occurs. (Note: I'm an accountant, not a chemist
)
2) Surface area and juice delivery is EVERYTHING. When the coil does not have adequate juice to assist the temp control in maintaining the temperature, it reaches its max temp very quickly at a very low wattage. When adequate juice is being delivered to the surface of the coil, then it can maintain its temp with a much higher wattage and in turn produce wonder vapor. When the coil is reaching its temperature at a low wattage and not producing much vapor, the DNA 40 is doing exactly what its designed to do...protect your wicking material. When you do provide good juice flow, it is vaping heaven. Less is more when it comes to wicking with cotton. After putting a strand of Cotton Bacon through the coils and with the excess strands on both ends sticking straight out, I cut the cotton just a little bit from where it is extending past the walls of the base. Then, I tuck them down, just slightly under the coils. If you have to much cotton under the coils, the juice will not run through the cotton and deliver to the center of the coils and you will have to do a lot of dripping.
My current setup is on Tug Boat with 28g nickel, 12 wraps on a 1/8 drill bit (reading 0.28 ohms), 40 watts, and temp control set at 390. I am getting a medium warm, super dense vape and great cloud production. While it is tempting at first, I don't see the purpose of setting the temp any higher than 400. I am reading on other threads where people are vaping at 500 plus and this will burn both the juice and cotton. When you are utilizing the high wattage capabilities at 400 or less degrees, it will heat the coil very fast and produce excellent vapor.
1) Do not preheat and mold the coil. While this does leave a potential for hot spots, the temperature control prevents hot spots from causing any issues. When you preheat and tightly push the coils together, the resistance is going to drop. Furthermore, and I don't know the technical happenings as to why, but I don't think the nickel wire likes being preheated. It believe that a slight change in the chemistry occurs. (Note: I'm an accountant, not a chemist
) 2) Surface area and juice delivery is EVERYTHING. When the coil does not have adequate juice to assist the temp control in maintaining the temperature, it reaches its max temp very quickly at a very low wattage. When adequate juice is being delivered to the surface of the coil, then it can maintain its temp with a much higher wattage and in turn produce wonder vapor. When the coil is reaching its temperature at a low wattage and not producing much vapor, the DNA 40 is doing exactly what its designed to do...protect your wicking material. When you do provide good juice flow, it is vaping heaven. Less is more when it comes to wicking with cotton. After putting a strand of Cotton Bacon through the coils and with the excess strands on both ends sticking straight out, I cut the cotton just a little bit from where it is extending past the walls of the base. Then, I tuck them down, just slightly under the coils. If you have to much cotton under the coils, the juice will not run through the cotton and deliver to the center of the coils and you will have to do a lot of dripping.
My current setup is on Tug Boat with 28g nickel, 12 wraps on a 1/8 drill bit (reading 0.28 ohms), 40 watts, and temp control set at 390. I am getting a medium warm, super dense vape and great cloud production. While it is tempting at first, I don't see the purpose of setting the temp any higher than 400. I am reading on other threads where people are vaping at 500 plus and this will burn both the juice and cotton. When you are utilizing the high wattage capabilities at 400 or less degrees, it will heat the coil very fast and produce excellent vapor.
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Im so pumped about this DNA-40 heat control that I canceled my preorder for the Cloupor T8. Just ordered the dna-40 chipset and a hana clone box + fatdaddy 510.
I hope to be building in about 2 weeks.
I hope to be building in about 2 weeks.
Looks so weird seeing dna 40 on the case. Did they clean the interior up or are they still hot glued.
Oh man, I am so jealous. Bought two DNA30's within the last month, so having to sit on my hands. Guess I'll have to wait on the V2 chipset. Enjoy -- and keep the reports coming!
I haven't seen a place to purchase the board and Evolv is not posting a purchase link. If you have a vendor link, let me know. I would much rather build my own as well.
So is the DNA 30 passe' now? DO you think people with 30's are going to be dumping them for the 40's? Will the 30's out there still for sale become unpopular and shunned now? I'm curious to see how the 40's introduction will affect the long standing coolness of the 30. I wonder if it will quickly fade and die off. Evolve still lists the DNA 20 for sale. Maybe they will continue with all 3 offerings.
Yea man, we are officially out-of-date, over-the-hill, square and not cool. We're going to need a new car, shoes, and clothes.
Just when my car, shoes and clothes had worn in enough to be comfy too. Eh, kids today...I used to have to walk 5 miles barefoot in a snowstorm uphill both ways to get my disposable CE4 tanks. These whipper snappers don't know how good they got it.
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