Hello everyone and curiosity about latest dna40 (C/F + bigger display)

[ndb70]

Hello vapers, after a long "snooping-only" time on this great board (where I've learnt an incredible amount of things), I've decided to jump in because of something that puzzles me.

About me: quite a noob vaper from Italy (just 5+ months after smoking for several years), but already on the rta wagon (KFL+, KF4, Lemo) and lately literally fallen in love with DNA40 and temperature protection (a little bit less with Ni200 ).

Now, since I still can't post in the relevant "official dna40 introduction", I'll try to summarize my question here, hoping someone passing by will notice it.
I have a flask (from early December) with the Fahrenheit only version of the board (which, lucky me, hasn't had any of the various glitches/locks I've read about), and just a couple of days ago I got a vaporshark with the latest (Celsius + Fahrenheit and bigger display) board. Nothing against Fahrenheit only, but I'm on the other side of the ocean and too used to good old Celsius, you know...

Long story short, the newest board is consistently reading all my builds at about 0.04 ohms higher than the older one. All reads occur with atomizers at room temperature, not fired since more than 1 hour. Curiously enough, I've always had this feeling that the flask (older board) was reading a bit lower because it was always below both the steam-engine.org calculator and another ohm reader I have, but hey, "dna40 must be more accurate" I said to myself.
Now I have this newer board that seems to read more in line with what comes out from the online calculator and the other ohm reader and I don't know what to think.
Maybe Evolv didn't just change the display, but also tweaked the calibration/measurement algorithms? Is this new reading the "right" one or am I risking going too high with my TP (if the base resistance is read higher than it really is)? Is it just a difference in the mod building (internal resistance, grounding)?

Too many questions for a single noob vaper, that's why I'm looking for some expert help here.

Oh, and I also posted kind of this same question on the Evolv website just today, so I'm waiting for some official answer as well, but it would be nice at least to hear if someone else has experienced something similar...

Thanks and hello again,
Andrea.

 

[daleron]

Welcome to ECF Andrea, make yourself right at home
I can't help since I know absolutely nothing about that but someone will be by soon I'm sure

 

[Susan~S]

Hello and welcome to the forum Andrea. Glad to have you here!

I too cannot address your issue. To get your first 5 posts (not necessary to start 5 threads) you can post in this thread or go out and welcome some other new members OR post in another thread in this New Member section. Once you have your 5 posts just wait for the servers to update (at :25 past the hour) and then you can post (or start threads) in other forums on this site.

 

[cores]

Hello Susan,

I don't know about the ohm reading being inaccurate on the DNA40, so I can't comment on it.

I am curious though how you like the DNA40 chip outside of the resistance variation. I think I want to pop one of these chips in my zna50 clone. Do you find the chip holds a consistent vape as the battery is used?

Thank you!

 

[Rsunderl]

Hi ndb70 and welcome aboard!

My guess would be that the difference between the two boards is being caused by something as simple as a difference in the length of the connector wires from the board to the pin. 0.004 ohms (four hundredths of an ohm) is a pretty tiny difference, so that might just be it. In all, I'd say it's nothing to worry about.

I would be interested in wht you hear from Evolv, though.
Happy Vaping!

 

[LXXero]

0.04ohm difference almost seems small enough that you could chock that down to differences in the wiring and soldering and what not.

I'm still in the process of building my first box mod, which will be using the original dna40, so I can't speak too much yet to my experience with the ohm meter on the unit, but, my experience with the ohmmeters on most mods versus say, my fluke 289 multimeter, kind of makes most of them seem horribly inaccurate by comparison! But, it's all relative I guess!

 

[Train2]

I was going to guess the same thing - that slight a difference, while it can matter with a super low build - is certainly something you could reasonable expect between two different devices - even of the same model. It could be the quality of the connection your getting with the atty, or as mentioned, at any connection point inside...

 

[ndb70]

Hello Susan,

I don't know about the ohm reading being inaccurate on the DNA40, so I can't comment on it.

I am curious though how you like the DNA40 chip outside of the resistance variation. I think I want to pop one of these chips in my zna50 clone. Do you find the chip holds a consistent vape as the battery is used?

Thank you!

Hi cores, well that was me (ndb70) and not Susan, but nonetheless here's what my experience has been so far:
I really like the DNA40, you have to get over a bit of a re-learning curve as far as builds go, because of the completely different setup that ni200 requires.
At AWG greater than 30, you get flimsy coils that really can get destroyed by just wicking too much cotton, and at AWG < 30 you have to shove in a massive amount of spires (>11-12) to get a workable resistance.
So at the moment I'm juggling between 30 AWG (around 9 spires) and twisted 32 AWG (for increased stiffness).
Once you get used to that, the board works really well for me. No dry hits, perfect balance between vapor temperature and volume, and a good sense of "safety" that comes from knowing you're just less prone to "burning" your juices.

 

[ndb70]

Quick update, after reading your suggestions about the difference being in the various connections of the mod (which is one of the options I considered too):

I decided to build a box-mod myself with a newer dna40 board I just got yesterday. It is a small-screen one, but it is of the newer brand (Celsius/Fahrenheit).
I used the biggest wires I could use to go to the atty (20 AWG, I tried 18 but there was no way to fit those neither in the box nor in the atty central pin). I kept them the shortest possible (less than 2 cm) and put obsessive control in how I soldered them.
Also, I connected _all_ the ground points on the boards, not relying on the internal connections which would electrically make it work with just a ground connection to the metallic box.
Well, it turns out this box of mine reads almost always the same _lower_ resistances that the old board (Fahrenheit only) in the Vapor Flask does.
IOW:

1. VaporFlask with old DNA40 and my box with newer DNA40 read the same resistances
2. VaporShark with newer DNA40 reads higher resistances

At this point, I'm inclined to think VaporShark has somewhat of less efficient internal connections or ground paths, but I'm not really keen on opening it up as it is brand new, but I just wanted to share this first results while I'm still waiting for Evolv answer.
I'll keep you posted...
Andrea.

 

[cores]

Hi cores, well that was me (ndb70) and not Susan, but nonetheless here's what my experience has been so far:
I really like the DNA40, you have to get over a bit of a re-learning curve as far as builds go, because of the completely different setup that ni200 requires.
At AWG greater than 30, you get flimsy coils that really can get destroyed by just wicking too much cotton, and at AWG < 30 you have to shove in a massive amount of spires (>11-12) to get a workable resistance.
So at the moment I'm juggling between 30 AWG (around 9 spires) and twisted 32 AWG (for increased stiffness).
Once you get used to that, the board works really well for me. No dry hits, perfect balance between vapor temperature and volume, and a good sense of "safety" that comes from knowing you're just less prone to "burning" your juices.

Right its NDB70! My bad, not sure how that happened!

I'd like to try the Ni200 temperature stability feature, but Im not quite into rebuildables just yet. Really need to spend some time to find a rebuildable tank and some pre-made ni200 coils for the go. Im still in the pop in a premade bvc and go phase.

Can you give some feedback with the chip running on the old standard coils? Does the chip vape consistently on them too?

 

[ndb70]

Right its NDB70! My bad, not sure how that happened!

I'd like to try the Ni200 temperature stability feature, but Im not quite into rebuildables just yet. Really need to spend some time to find a rebuildable tank and some pre-made ni200 coils for the go. Im still in the pop in a premade bvc and go phase.

Can you give some feedback with the chip running on the old standard coils? Does the chip vape consistently on them too?

No problem, I also run the chip with non-ni200 builds (even though it's the minority of them right now) and it is presumably exactly the same experience you might have with a DNA30 (except with a +10W). It's absolutely consistent and it's in my opinion veeery efficient on the battery side, although the battery meter reading requires some getting used-to as it tries a bit too much to "interprete" the battery level in terms of how many hits you're going to take at the current wattage level instead of just reporting on the current voltage.
But, that said, I can confirm it's absolutely enjoyable, although, believe me, when running in temperature-protected mode it's another story altogether.
Just to give you an example: when running with ni200 builds in Temperature-protected mode, you'll be provided with a nice "pre-heat" functionality which will make the chip shove off the coil all the power it's capable of for the very first few milliseconds of the drag if the coil's temperature's too low with respect to what you've set as the maximum. That means that even with the probably "massive" coils you'll end up by using ni200, you won't experience that annoying "heat-me-up" lag at the beginning of the drag. But unfortunately this feature (which relies on checking the coil's temperature) is not available with normal builds.
Andrea

 

[cores]

No problem, I also run the chip with non-ni200 builds (even though it's the minority of them right now) and it is presumably exactly the same experience you might have with a DNA30 (except with a +10W). It's absolutely consistent and it's in my opinion veeery efficient on the battery side, although the battery meter reading requires some getting used-to as it tries a bit too much to "interprete" the battery level in terms of how many hits you're going to take at the current wattage level instead of just reporting on the current voltage.
But, that said, I can confirm it's absolutely enjoyable, although, believe me, when running in temperature-protected mode it's another story altogether.
Just to give you an example: when running with ni200 builds in Temperature-protected mode, you'll be provided with a nice "pre-heat" functionality which will make the chip shove off the coil all the power it's capable of for the very first few milliseconds of the drag if the coil's temperature's too low with respect to what you've set as the maximum. That means that even with the probably "massive" coils you'll end up by using ni200, you won't experience that annoying "heat-me-up" lag at the beginning of the drag. But unfortunately this feature (which relies on checking the coil's temperature) is not available with normal builds.
Andrea

Hi Andrea! Thank you again! Looks like Im going need to order the dna40 chip this weekend~ You like the ni200 temperature mode that much better huh? Have you noticed any nickel tastes from the ni200 coils?

 

[ndb70]

Hi cores,
when using ni200 builds in TP mode, I currently wick with either ... cotton or rayon, and I don't get any particular taste from the wire itself in either case.
I'd say it's completely neutral, but to be honest, I couldn't taste too much wire-specifics from kanthal either, so that might just mean I'm not that sensitive to wire taste...