Help: 5V Mad Vapes mod

[jj2]

Just put one of their kits together. It will vape wonderfully for three or four times and then die. Then, after giving it a break, it will do the same.
Any ideas why?

 

[jj2]

Any ideas?
I told hubby there's probably a short in it somewhere but he doesn't think so...........

 

[Java_Az]

Sounds like the regulator overheating and going into thermal shutdown. When it cools off it works again till it gets hot. If there is room adding a heat sink to the regulator could fix the problem.

 

[jj2]

Like I said, got this from mad vapes. Is this an on going problem cause I got two more to build.

And thanks, he's trying to come up with a solve.

 

[Java_Az]

Well it is a fairly Common problem with linear regulators. Really the amps we put threw them they should have some sorta thermal heat sink to whisk away the heat generated by them. That kit comes with a 3 amp regulator usually the lower rated amp ones are the ones causing trouble. I would go back over the wiring with a meter make sure there are no shorts and double check that everything is wired right. If you find nothing wrong there i would vape on it till it cuts out and see how hot the regulator is getting, be careful it could be hot enough to burn skin. If it is really hot i think it is safe to say it is going into thermal shutdown. I would build another one of the kits you got and see if it is doing the same thing maybe you just got unlucky and have a bad regulator. IF the other one does the same thing i think some sorta heat sink might be the only option.

 

[jj2]

So would it be better just to buy a better regulator? If so, what kind, and any idea where would be a good place to buy them?

 

[Java_Az]

Well linear regulators produce heat thats just the way they are. I think no matter what kind of linear you put in it will get hot. Switching regulators are more efficient and also cut down on heat quite alot . But they are more complex and more costly. Well unless you use the TI sample program like some in here do. They would also take up more space due to the fact you have to add external components. Due to it being more advanced i am going to stick to the heatsink option recommendation. But if you really want to switch out regs to switching i would check out the Evercool thread. That mod is based on a switching module that requires 3 or 4 extra parts. But that would give you an idea about linear vs switching.

 

[CapeCAD]

What resistance atomizer/cartomizer are you using? The resistance of this will affect the current you need to operate. If you are using low resistance, like 1.5 Ohm, you will be operating near 3 Amps and overheating the device. If you are using a higher resistance, like 2.8 or 3 Ohm, you will only be drawing ~half the current and will not see as much heat.

 

[jj2]

I had a 510 HV on it when it first did it and then a regular atty and it does the same thing with botn.
I think hubby is going to try the heat sink and see how it goes.
Thanks for the help.

 

[meat1023]

I think something has to be wrong either a drip of solder got stuck or somethings off maybe the reg is bad. I have 2 of their 5 volt boxes and neither one even gets warm I had one do something sort of like this but I found my soldering job was a bit off on the center of the atty adaptor and well a small peice of wire was hitting the outside. Id really go through it close and check everything. But thats just my 2 cents great now Im broke lol

 

[rbonie]

Have built 2 of these and have the same problem. Did one that used 3 , 14500 bats and d#$% near burnt me up. To much voltage. Got the 5v kit and used the plans on Madvapes "How To" page and it works,(for a while), . Sometimes it just quits.Have to put it down for a while ,(sometimes a day or two). When I try it again works GREAT for a while. Don't have a clue why.

 

[jj2]

Hubby built the thing and he is not available right now.
MadVapes reply only told me to get hold of them if I continued to have a problem so no help there.
The capacitor wasn't included in the kit.
Could this be a problem?

 

[horton]

I built mine without the capacitor and so far (5 weeks roughly) it has worked fine. My guess is either a cold solder joint or perhaps a stray bit of solder causing a short on the PCB.
Just happened to think of something else..... are you using heavy enough gauge wire for the load? If the wire is too "light" for the current flowing through it, that might be causing the cut out problem.