Help from experience vapers please? Best tank for 200w TC?

[Eliphillips420]

Hey guys. Just created tho account because i ordered a Istick200w with a hellboy rda. I am a huge fan of a nickel wire built mod (using TC of course). Right now i have a 40Wtc with a stillare v2. Im curious on how this big swich will be(200W and 4 peg rda) if anyone has experience with this? Also i was wondering what your all's opinion on 200ws with nickel vs kanthal would be, what difference it would have in vape, etc..? Or perhaps rdas aren't good with this much power and i need to get myself another sub ohm tank, although i prefer rda? Will this make much more smoke where ill want to lower my nicotine level? Thanks guys. Also sorry for my bad terminology, i know my way around an ecig but im not to savy on the part names. Lol

 

[IMFire3605]

40watt TC or 200watt TC the wattage only affects initial coil heating ramp up, more watts, faster the coils ramp up to set TC temp, after that they pulse width modulate the voltage/wattage to maintain that set temp. You'll notice that with the Hellboy there will be more airflow, so you can probably add another 20 to 50F to the TC temp setting to warm up the vape, get more flavor and vapor, the extra airflow will help keep the coils cooler as well. 4 post screw setup compared to the 3 post is a bit easier to work with, I generally secure the outer post of a coil (the negative for that coil), then secure the other leg into the center hole furthest from secured negative leg (1=coil 1 negative, 2=coil 2 positive, 3=coil 1 positive, 4=coil 2 negative) which helps center the coils in the RDA, securing the first coil, cut its leads, then secure the second coil and cut its leads, the second coil center lead can be tricky to cut so shift the first coil down to the deck, mount the second coil, cut the leads then level the coils back up off the deck and center them better. If you are wanting to cloud up the room, TC builds generally can do it, but here the difference of TC wire like Nickel Ni200 and non-TC wire like Kanthal A1 or Nichrome80 differ. With non-TC wire builds the mod won't throttle itself to maintain temperature, it continues to supply the set wattage, ie mod set for 80watts, it will fire 80watts the whole time the fire button is held, which makes for a hotter build. The Stillare is in this instance better suited for TC mode, where the Hellboy with its larger deck/chamber and larger post holes can accept hotter coil builds with Kanthal with all of the airflow it has, especially with the wider chuff drip tip/mouth piece. Going hotter up the wattage scale this way if you are say using 6mg Nic per milliliter liquid and double your wattage (40watts normally in TC going up to 80watts) you'll want to go down to a 3mg in that instance (twice as hot, vaporizing twice the liquid you normally, twice the nicotine exposure). As far as power versus tank or rda, the RDA will handle higher watts better than almost any tank on the market except a few like the TFV4, VCMT, and a few others that can equal an RDA in the cloud department, they are just shy of an RDA in flavor. Remember just because a mod can do 200watts, doesn't mean you have to press the limits all the time to get a good cloud, I can build an RDA all day long with a higher ohm build parallel coil and out cloud a lot of other "Super" cloud builds of 22guage wire someone else it using at 1/3 to 1/2 the power they are using, also have to ask would you drive a Ferrari that can do 200mph at 200mph everywhere you go.

hth explains some of it a bit.

 

[Eliphillips420]

40watt TC or 200watt TC the wattage only affects initial coil heating ramp up, more watts, faster the coils ramp up to set TC temp, after that they pulse width modulate the voltage/wattage to maintain that set temp. You'll notice that with the Hellboy there will be more airflow, so you can probably add another 20 to 50F to the TC temp setting to warm up the vape, get more flavor and vapor, the extra airflow will help keep the coils cooler as well. 4 post screw setup compared to the 3 post is a bit easier to work with, I generally secure the outer post of a coil (the negative for that coil), then secure the other leg into the center hole furthest from secured negative leg (1=coil 1 negative, 2=coil 2 positive, 3=coil 1 positive, 4=coil 2 negative) which helps center the coils in the RDA, securing the first coil, cut its leads, then secure the second coil and cut its leads, the second coil center lead can be tricky to cut so shift the first coil down to the deck, mount the second coil, cut the leads then level the coils back up off the deck and center them better. If you are wanting to cloud up the room, TC builds generally can do it, but here the difference of TC wire like Nickel Ni200 and non-TC wire like Kanthal A1 or Nichrome80 differ. With non-TC wire builds the mod won't throttle itself to maintain temperature, it continues to supply the set wattage, ie mod set for 80watts, it will fire 80watts the whole time the fire button is held, which makes for a hotter build. The Stillare is in this instance better suited for TC mode, where the Hellboy with its larger deck/chamber and larger post holes can accept hotter coil builds with Kanthal with all of the airflow it has, especially with the wider chuff drip tip/mouth piece. Going hotter up the wattage scale this way if you are say using 6mg Nic per milliliter liquid and double your wattage (40watts normally in TC going up to 80watts) you'll want to go down to a 3mg in that instance (twice as hot, vaporizing twice the liquid you normally, twice the nicotine exposure). As far as power versus tank or rda, the RDA will handle higher watts better than almost any tank on the market except a few like the TFV4, VCMT, and a few others that can equal an RDA in the cloud department, they are just shy of an RDA in flavor. Remember just because a mod can do 200watts, doesn't mean you have to press the limits all the time to get a good cloud, I can build an RDA all day long with a higher ohm build parallel coil and out cloud a lot of other "Super" cloud builds of 22guage wire someone else it using at 1/3 to 1/2 the power they are using, also have to ask would you drive a Ferrari that can do 200mph at 200mph everywhere you go.

hth explains some of it a bit.

Thanks a ton man really helped. I dont plan on going wild with the 200 watts since i usually perfer a lower watt when using kanthal. Also, i ordered 4 18650s online that claim to be 6000maH and i believe may be for a flashlight with further research. Will this present an immediate danger? I plan on purchasing a Sony or efest sooner than later. But for now i couldnt with my funds. I know it can be dangerous not using name brand batteries in mods. But im also aware that eleaf/istick make there mods with a fair amount of safety protocols. Let me know what you guys think?

 

[rice721]

Thanks a ton man really helped. I dont plan on going wild with the 200 watts since i usually perfer a lower watt when using kanthal. Also, i ordered 4 18650s online that claim to be 6000maH and i believe may be for a flashlight with further research. Will this present an immediate danger? I plan on purchasing a Sony or efest sooner than later. But for now i couldnt with my funds. I know it can be dangerous not using name brand batteries in mods. But im also aware that eleaf/istick make there mods with a fair amount of safety protocols. Let me know what you guys think?

The batteries you bought are most likely low amperage batteries NOT suitable for vaping. With vaping, or more specifically high power vaping (which seems to be your preference) you want batteries with the highest Amperage possible and currently there are NO 18650 batteries that go higher than 30A on a continuous CDR.

If you want to fire your mod up to 200W with your device, a 3 battery mod (in series) you need to do this calculation.

18650 battery voltage at full 4.2V - in 3 battery series = 4.2 x 3 = 12.6V
18650 battery voltage cutoff 3.2V - in 3 battery series = 3.2 x 3 = 9.6V

Amperage (A) = Wattage (W) / Voltage (V)
A = 200W / 12.6V to 200W / 9.6V
A = 16A to 21A

So you need a battery with a minimum amperage (continuous) of 20A.

When buying batteries go with the big 3 (or 4), LG, Samsung, Sony (or Panasonic).

Read up on fellow forum member @Mooch battery testing and read up on some battery threads.
All can be found in the battery sub forum

Batteries and Chargers

[edit] With the 6000mah batteries you just ordered you're probably going to get a weak battery warning pretty quick.

Assuming the failsafe features kick in it shouldn't be a problem but its honestly money wasted on batteries that won't work the way you want them to and why take the risk.

 

[IMFire3605]

Thanks a ton man really helped. I dont plan on going wild with the 200 watts since i usually perfer a lower watt when using kanthal. Also, i ordered 4 18650s online that claim to be 6000maH and i believe may be for a flashlight with further research. Will this present an immediate danger? I plan on purchasing a Sony or efest sooner than later. But for now i couldnt with my funds. I know it can be dangerous not using name brand batteries in mods. But im also aware that eleaf/istick make there mods with a fair amount of safety protocols. Let me know what you guys think?

Your best bet for quality batteries suggested for vaping will be if in the US from
illumn.com
RTDVapor.com
IMRBatteries.com
orbtronic.com
Liionwholesale.com

Dual battery 200watt mod you will be limited to only a couple battery models, namely Sony VTC3, LG HB2, HB4, HB6 which are all true 30amp CDR batteries, but low mah (they sacrifice mah for high amp discharge, range in 1500 to 1600mah), next would the Sony VTC4 which will be good up to about 180watts max, 150watts the VTC4, LG HD2C, 120watts VTC4, Samsung 25R, LG HD2C, under 100watts, any 20amp CDR battery, stay away from Efest and others, the four manufacturers are Panasonic/Sanyo, Sony, Samsung, and LG, everyone else buys from these big 4 and are generally double in price what the authentics are.

Triple battery 200watt mod, any 20amp battery will do, but the LG HG2 (chocolate brown) and Samsung 30Q (lavender) work real well in these with long run time (3000mah @ 20amp CDR highest mah with high CDR).

Link in my signature has a listing of battery models depending on application with the most popular 18650s on the market that many suggest using.

 

[Eliphillips420]

Once again thanks to everyone who helped. Im currently on house arrest and had my friend pick me up 3 18650s and an eldest charger from a local vape shop. Not sure the brand but they look similar to some name brand ones and may be some since its a vape store, im not sure. Anyone have experience with these? They have a large silver sticker saying 3.7 V 18650 3000maH and then a ups brown color covering the rest of the baterry. I have learned the meaning of all of these specs but i didnt know if anyone knows the brand/ uses them. Thanks for the info

 

[Eliphillips420]

Update: peeled back silver sticker (brown wrapping is still completely in tact) appears to be an LG. Also bought an efest LUC v4 with digital display(purchased in unison at same location). This charger is safe to use on LGs correct?

 

[rice721]

Yes it is. Xtar, Efest, Nitecore are all reputable charger brands. I have the nitecore and Xtar myself. Prefer the Xtar cuz it just charges faster. 1amp in the left and right slots if only 2 batteries in them.

 

[Eliphillips420]

Yes it is. Xtar, Efest, Nitecore are all reputable charger brands. I have the nitecore and Xtar myself. Prefer the Xtar cuz it just charges faster. 1amp in the left and right slots if only 2 batteries in them.

that's awesome to hear. Thanks again, and to anyone considering purchase of an istick 200W TC i would deffenitley recommend. 3 or 4 not sure, customizable settings, awesome power andhasent gone down a notch since the purchase of my LGs. Also great value. Got mine for 39.99 USD and scratched off the code and it was 100% authentic (shocked cause i paid more for my 40W TC and around the same for a basic 30 W, both i stick but also in stores haha). Once again these batteries made her work like a charm. Appreciate all the help i got and thanks to y'all im vapin great. Really great community for a first time post!

 

[Skulcius]

that's awesome to hear. Thanks again, and to anyone considering purchase of an istick 200W TC i would deffenitley recommend. 3 or 4 not sure, customizable settings, awesome power andhasent gone down a notch since the purchase of my LGs. Also great value. Got mine for 39.99 USD and scratched off the code and it was 100% authentic (shocked cause i paid more for my 40W TC and around the same for a basic 30 W, both i stick but also in stores haha). Once again these batteries made her work like a charm. Appreciate all the help i got and thanks to y'all im vapin great. Really great community for a first time post!

This is an amazing community only been around here a couple weeks and find myself here multiple times a day now!

 

[Eliphillips420]

So im having a little problem. My Hellboy worked fine up till now but it seems it doesn't want to fire and when it does its very burnt tasting an most likely has smoke in the vapor too. Im using a nickel build right now so i know that's not safe to be over heating. It is on temp controls. Keeps asking old coil or new its old but I've answered both ways to see the difference. Anyone know how to fix this?

 

[rice721]

what did you set your temp control at? if there is a preheat or wattage selection maybe try turning it down.

Could be your coils are gunked up causing the mod to not recognize resistance. Happened to me with some SS316Ls but it just refused to fire the thing, didn't get burnt taste.

 

[Eliphillips420]

I keep it between 400-500F.and they are slightly gunned but i just built them tuesday so they pretty fresh still. I made a 14 wrap double barrel coil as well as a normal straight 14 wrap coil. Could this cause problems distributing power evenly?

 

[Jdurand]

Did you make spaced or contact coils. TC likes spaced coils.