(Help!) Getting into rebuilding

[Oreoigloo2]

This is probably going to be the first in a series of questions now that in starting down the way of Mech mods and rebuilding. My gear at the moment is the following

Nemesis clone
18650 Efest Li-Mn IMR battery
Multimeter
Ehpro Tobh Atty (still in delivery)
28 AW gauge kanthal wire (still in delivery)
Bag of organic cotton from Walgreens

I was wondering if this was all a good place to start and if there's anything I might be leaving out. Also since I'm just starting I don't want to be going out of my reach. What's a good ohm reading to have for my first coils? Considering the 28g wire is this good for above 1ohm? What can I wrap them around/how many wraps should I be getting on it? I did plenty of research and got a much better understanding of it all, but just some self doubts and not wanting to risk leaving things out [emoji16]


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[TornadoAlley]

I would start at 1 ohm if that atty has decent airflow. You can always go lower (not too low) say .4 ohms if you wanted. Remember if you build dual coil, cut the resistance in half. For instance one single 1 ohm coil would be approx. 0.5 ohm dual. Use a 1.5-3mm screwdriver to build on. Watch videos and make sure you read up on battery safety!

 

[TornadoAlley]

And if the atty comes stock with restricted airflow, take it to a local vape shop and ask if they will drill it for you. I've heard of someplaces charging a couple bucks, but where I live there are atleast 5 shops that do it for free. To be a nice person, I always buy some juice after they drill it.

 

[realsis]

Hi first make certain you know your batteries limits. Second know ohms law and work the formula to see if your build will be exceeding the limis of your battery. If you don't like doing math they have apps to help. A few of my favorite apps are vapors tool box, and a app called ohms law. You plug in the numbers and it does the rest. It's very important to know your resistance of your build with a ohm reader. As long as your safe and take the measures to insure your not pushing your battery past it's limits you can expirement with different builds within those limits. My favorite is the micro coil. I use 28 gauge kanthal and do a 6 wrap around a blunt syringe tip and then I compress the coil with tweezers and fire it with a butane torch. I temper it after by cooling it in water. I get a nice compressed micro coil that is about a consistent .7 ohm. But there are many different builds you can try as long as you take the steps to be safe first.

 

[B2L]

You'll need a good ohm meter, I like using it in addition to the multimeter. I like this one

USA Made Clear Transparent Ohm Meter *BLUE LED*

A good ohm meter is important for gauging your ohms and also makes a good base for building on.

1ohm is a good starting point. With 28 gauge I like 7 wraps around a 14 gauge lure lock needle which comes out to .8 ohms. You can get a set of small drill bits, avoid the black ones, and play with different sizes learning how the diameter affects the ohms until you find your sweet spot. I also use jewelers screwdrivers to do the same thing.

I highly recommend Baditudes blog as essential reading before starting out, battery safety is everything.

E-Cigarette Forum - Baditude - Blogs

I'm assuming you also have a battery charger.

Read all you can and ask lots of questions, your off to a good start!

 

[Oreoigloo2]

I would start at 1 ohm if that atty has decent airflow. You can always go lower (not too low) say .4 ohms if you wanted. Remember if you build dual coil, cut the resistance in half. For instance one single 1 ohm coil would be approx. 0.5 ohm dual. Use a 1.5-3mm screwdriver to build on. Watch videos and make sure you read up on battery safety!

Thanks! I was gonna plan on not going below an ohm until I've got a kick, shortstop or other safety measure in there. But one thing that I recently realized was if I had a tank on a vv battery and I turned it to 5V on a 1.8 ohm atty. It would fry the juice or mess up the atomizer. So how doesn't that apply to these? My battery reads a 4.03V but I'm planning to make a coil around 1-2.5v. Or people making .4 ohm coils on a battery like mine. What keeps it from doing the same there?


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[B2L]

Thanks! I was gonna plan on not going below an ohm until I've got a kick, shortstop or other safety measure in there. But one thing that I recently realized was if I had a tank on a vv battery and I turned it to 5V on a 1.8 ohm atty. It would fry the juice or mess up the atomizer. So how doesn't that apply to these? My battery reads a 4.03V but I'm planning to make a coil around 1-2.5v. Or people making .4 ohm coils on a battery like mine. What keeps it from doing the same there?


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It's all about the airflow, more airflow cools it enough to prevent burning your juice.

 

[Oreoigloo2]

That's what I meant by skipping over something so simple [emoji28] thanks and also yes I've got a nitecore charger


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[Nytebreed]

Efest batteries are suspect lately. Do some searches, you'll find more info. I would suggest building at 0.8 or higher with that battery.
Get some VTC4/5 30a or LG 35a batteries sooner rather than later.
You want more than one battery, you don't want to drain the battery to dead before recharging.

Check out the links that B2L posted above. You can only build to what your battery is designed to handle. The MAH of the battery is irrelevant here, it is only the capacity, not a performance benchmark. Continuous drain rating is the stat you need to familiarize yourself with.

[EDIT] Also purchase your batteries from a reputable supplier, there are a ton of fake rebranded batteries out there, and unfortunately, many of the vendors do not realize this and sell them as authentic.

 

[AzPlumber]

The kick won't help you below 1.3 ohms but the kick 2 is rated down to .5 ohms. You will need to check the specs if you get a clone.

Never build a coil and push the button without first checking the resistance on an ohm meter, never.

 

[TornadoAlley]

I agree with Nytebreed on the whole efest thing. I've read that efest doesn't produce batteries only buy from other companies and rebrand them. You may notice that two efest batteries with the same specs can be two different lengths or diameters. Only slightly different but I have ran into problems because of this before. I would just stick around .6-.8 until you get money for sony vtc5s or something comparable.

 

[AzPlumber]

I agree with Nytebreed on the whole efest thing. I've read that efest doesn't produce batteries only buy from other companies and rebrand them. You may notice that two efest batteries with the same specs can be two different lengths or diameters. Only slightly different but I have ran into problems because of this before. I would just stick around .6-.8 until you get money for sony vtc5s or something comparable.

Lots of batteries are made by others and labeled by the seller, that alone does not make it a bad battery. In fact one of the most trusted sellers is AW and he is just a seller not a manufacturer.

The Efest purple 35 amp battery is reported to be an LG cell with a 20 amp continuous rating and a 35 amp pulse rating. Efest chose to market the pulse rating instead of continuous. No doubt this is deceptive but a 20 amp battery will still work just fine with the appropriate resistance.

At no time should a vaper use the pulse rating of a battery when building his coils. There is no industry standard on pulse rating for length of time under load and length of time between pulses.

 

[Vaslovik]

This is probably going to be the first in a series of questions now that in starting down the way of Mech mods and rebuilding. My gear at the moment is the following

Nemesis clone
18650 Efest Li-Mn IMR battery
Multimeter
Ehpro Tobh Atty (still in delivery)
28 AW gauge kanthal wire (still in delivery)
Bag of organic cotton from Walgreens

Well I was with you until you got to the cotton. I use mesh in an RSST, so I can't speak to the direction you are heading in. Best of luck to ya though

 

[Susan~S]

EFEST
Just an FYI (as others have mentioned).

If your batteries are the purple Efest 18650 2500mAh 35A batteries -- they are not 35A continuous. They are really rebranded LG18650HE2 2500mAh 20 amp continuous batteries.
Source: Baditudes Blog Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?

Here is another warning that was posted on ECF regarding another purple Efest battery: Efest 3100mAh battery caution

WHERE TO GET BATTERIES
Just my standard FYI battery post! How to Spot Fake Sony Batteries

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are a few reputable battery suppliers in the US.
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
* RTD Vapor

 

[Oreoigloo2]

My batteries are the Efest red l600mAh 30A


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[Susan~S]

My batteries are the Efest red l600mAh 30A

I have not heard about any problems with your red Efest batteries. They are listed in Baditudes blog as 30A continuous.

 

[Oreoigloo2]

Thanks for letting me know [emoji41]


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[PapaSloth]

Get a mini butane torch. Harbor Freight has them for around $7 if you have one of those nearby.

 

[Oreoigloo2]

I don't, but I could probably get one at a Home Depot or something. Most I've seen though just check them ok their meters, put them on their mod and hear them that way


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[PapaSloth]

I don't, but I could probably get one at a Home Depot or something. Most I've seen though just check them ok their meters, put them on their mod and hear them that way

Heating the kanthal with a torch makes it lose some of its springiness, which makes it easier to coil. You'll also want tweezers to squeeze the coil together (heat the coil, then release the button, then squeeze the coil together. Be sure to release the button before squeezing the coil or use ceramic tweezers so that you don't short the battery!!!).