help me identify this, i dont know whats wrong

[NealBJr]

see thats jut it my center post spins which isnt good. peopel are telling me to replace it?

If you think it might be a center pin not being insulated correctly, do a test with NO coil in it. if you have a multimeter. test tp see if ANY current is getting through.

If not, you're fine, and you just have to keep a close eye on where that center pin is when you torque down that wire.

when you build your coil, always dry fire it, tighten the coils if you're doing a micro coil. Make sure the coil isn't touching any part but the two posts. the legs should be as short as possible. you tighten the coils by getting it hot, then squeezing it with tweezers before it can cool down... be sure not to fire it while the tweezers are touching, or you will short it. Fire it till it's red, let go, then squeeze with tweezers. look at THIS VIDEO and reference 10:00-10:22. Notice how short the legs are, and that the coil is well away from the deck. Also, it shows how he tightens the coils. could you post pictures of your coil without wick and several angles?

 

[Ryedan]

The hot legs are easy to get rid of. Before you put wick in there pulse the coils until they are hot leg free. Don't vape it until there are no hot legs. These will burn juice and that makes chemicals you don't want to inhale all the time.

Is this your atty?

If it is, the positive block on top of the positive post is probably pressed on. As long as it's still tight on the round post underneath it, I wouldn't worry about it. The only thing to be careful with is that the positive block doesn't turn and short a coil onto the cap. I would use a pair of pliers when screwing down the coils and check the setup for movement after screwing it onto my mod. It will be a complication to work around until you get a new atty.

In the meantime I would get a new RDA because this one is just going to keep getting looser

 

[Ryedan]

If you think it might be a center pin not being insulated correctly, do a test with NO coil in it. if you have a multimeter. test tp see if ANY current is getting through.

If not, you're fine, and you just have to keep a close eye on where that center pin is when you torque down that wire.

when you build your coil, always dry fire it, tighten the coils if you're doing a micro coil. Make sure the coil isn't touching any part but the two posts. the legs should be as short as possible. you tighten the coils by getting it hot, then squeezing it with tweezers before it can cool down... be sure not to fire it while the tweezers are touching, or you will short it. Fire it till it's red, let go, then squeeze with tweezers. look at THIS VIDEO and reference 10:00-10:22. Notice how short the legs are, and that the coil is well away from the deck. Also, it shows how he tightens the coils. could you post pictures of your coil without wick and several angles?

I agree with everything you said above Neal, except the part about coil leg length. Yes, they should not be longer than necessary to get the setup you want. You're just wasting battery charge in that case, but they can be quite long and still not cause a performance issue. In my Trident I like to get my coils right next to the air holes like this:

That setup never gets hot legs. The first time I built it that way I was sure the unequal length legs would cause the coil not to heat up from the middle out, but that is also not the case. It doesn't look like it in that picture, but the coils are also quite far off the deck.

 

[Izan]

I agree with everything you said above Neal, except the part about coil leg length. Yes, they should not be longer than necessary to get the setup you want. You're just wasting battery charge in that case, but they can be quite long and still not cause a performance issue. In my Trident I like to get my coils right next to the air holes like this:

That setup never gets hot legs. The first time I built it that way I was sure the unequal length legs would cause the coil not to heat up from the middle out, but that is also not the case. It doesn't look like it in that picture, but the coils are also quite far off the deck.

If you don't get "Hot Legs" shouldn't the POS legs be shiny and un-blackened like your NEG legs?

Cheers
I

 

[Ryedan]

If you don't get "Hot Legs" shouldn't the POS legs be shiny and un-blackened like your NEG legs?

Cheers
I

Good point

The legs on both ends heat up. The short negative leg top left is kept wet by the wick there which keeps it cool. Without wicks in the coils no leg heats up enough to glow. Also, when I dry burn the coils the positive legs don't get hot enough to burn off the gunk on them, so what you see on them is the accumulation after multiple dry burns.

 

[classwife]

Moved to Rebuildable Atomizer Systems from General E-Smoking Discussion

 

[im_coryy]

thanks guys. ill try it again and test the atomizer. ill post up photos of my new build and see it anything changes

 

[OldtimeRocker]

Someone asked what i use for a coil build on my magma which i got on feibay for 24 free shipping, make sure you get the Magma by Infinite. It's a duel coil build 28g kanthal wraped around that cheap blue screwdriver that comes with most clone atty around 1.6-1.8mm. I run 8 wraps with 28g kanthal at 20 watts on my anah box 30watt DNA clone or my copper nemmy mech mod. I use cellucotton which beat cotton hands down IMHO but cotton is fine. that a .6 ohms build as rip would say its chunkin the Vaper, loving this cheap little set up myself.

 

[st0nedpenguin]

Your battery is dumping power into the coil and because the positive post isn't making a solid connection it has nowhere to go.

Definitely replace the atomizer.