HELP PLEASE!!!

[ZodAdEr]

Hello everyone! This is my first post.

I have been using the iTaste MVP 3.0 for a few weeks now. I have been using a kangerteck subtank mini with the rba and I am using a .9 ohm fused Clapton coil.

I have been having an issue with my ohms jumping around as I adjust the watts. It is very wild and there is no pattern. I have tried everything I could find on this subject and nothing has fixed it. I have tightened every screw and even tried to see if they were too tight, same goes with all the different parts of the tank. I have tried it with a couple of other tanks and haven’t had as severe results, but still, the ohms jump. I have the MVP in wattage mode. And I typically use around 26-30 watts. The mod works just fine 78% of the time. But it just starts jumping around randomly. I have noticed as well that the mod will jump back to voltage mode, and give a bad flavor (this happens randomly as well).

ANY ADVICE WILL DO! PLEASE!

Edit:
I wanted to mention that I got this mod from a friend, but it is straight from the manufacturer. He gave it to me because he upgraded.

 

[Zaryk]

How much of a jump is it? What kind of wire are you using?

This could be normal. Small changes in ohms can occur as the wire heats up and cools back down.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

More than .1 ohms and I would find another mod to try your STM on. Just to see if it is the mod or the STM. Over time, I have noticed that to find a source of a vaping problem, I have to use trial and error to eliminate possibilities.

Make sure the coil is clean and not touching the posts via gunk and check the 510 connection for cleanliness.

Work to eliminate possibilities.

 

[r77r7r]

Jumping out of wattage mode sure seems like a malfunction of the board. If an Innokin does this normally with a few clicks of the power button, I'd focus on that. Perhaps previous owner had a leaky tank.
Is the connection (where the tank inserts into) clean? Is the post springy?

 

[ilporcupine]

Just to add to above, if your resistance is varying it has to be either shorting or an intermittent open circuit.(assuming the mod is not defective) Does it fire sometimes, and not others, as well? Most won't fire on an open or a short, but an intermittent connection may not read as a short. Check that positive pin on your tank. Is it sticking out further than the other tanks you tried? It may have pushed the center pin in the mod down too far. You can carefully pull it up if that is the case. Just be careful not to tear up the insulator on the pin.

 

[puffon]

I'm surprised you were able to fit a clapton coil in the STM RBA.
Check that the leads are trimmed close to the screws, and not touching the RBA barrel.

 

[ZodAdEr]

How much of a jump is it? What kind of wire are you using?

This could be normal. Small changes in ohms can occur as the wire heats up and cools back down.

There’s no pattern to it really. It can jump from 1.8 ohm to 5.8 back down to .9 and then back up to 7.3. And the wire I’m not sure about.

 

[ZodAdEr]

I'm surprised you were able to fit a clapton coil in the STM RBA.
Check that the leads are trimmed close to the screws, and not touching the RBA barrel.

Oh yeah. It was tough. But when it works it’s worth it. The taste with some cotton bacon cotton is just incredible. And I get huge clouds at just 39 watts. And I had the issue of the leads touching the RBA barrel when I first set it up. Have since fixed this issue. Thank you though.

 

[ZodAdEr]

More than .1 ohms and I would find another mod to try your STM on. Just to see if it is the mod or the STM. Over time, I have noticed that to find a source of a vaping problem, I have to use trial and error to eliminate possibilities.

Make sure the coil is clean and not touching the posts via gunk and check the 510 connection for cleanliness.

Work to eliminate possibilities.

I will make sure to clean the coil. That is one I haven’t tried yet however this is the second one I have built in this setup with a consistent issue. Thank you.

 

[ZodAdEr]

Jumping out of wattage mode sure seems like a malfunction of the board. If an Innokin does this normally with a few clicks of the power button, I'd focus on that. Perhaps previous owner had a leaky tank.
Is the connection (where the tank inserts into) clean? Is the post springy?

The connection is very clean. I have cleaned it on a variety of ways, however the post is not sprig y at all. What could that mean?

 

[ZodAdEr]

Just to add to above, if your resistance is varying it has to be either shorting or an intermittent open circuit.(assuming the mod is not defective) Does it fire sometimes, and not others, as well? Most won't fire on an open or a short, but an intermittent connection may not read as a short. Check that positive pin on your tank. Is it sticking out further than the other tanks you tried? It may have pushed the center pin in the mod down too far. You can carefully pull it up if that is the case. Just be careful not to tear up the insulator on the pin.

Thank you for the reply. The pin on the sub tank mini does stick out a little farther than a few other 510 connectors. However I have tried to pull the positive pin up using a small pair of plyers. It did not fix it.
And it always seems to fire. It never doesn’t fire however I wish it would not sometimes. Because when the ohms jump up to something unreal like 4.7 ohms the voltage jumps really high as well. And burns everything. It’s really awful to hit that. But currently (the past ten minutes) I’ve been using it without any problems. I really don’t know what the issue is here.

 

[DaveP]

Resistance rises as an SS316L coil heats. It's how a TC mod reads the temperature of a coil. That would be a linear and repeatable increase in resistance as the coil gets hotter.

If it's jumping around you have a flaky connection at the coil posts. If it goes lower and back to normal, you may have a heat related short that occurs when the coil is hot. Pull the coil deck off the tank and look closely to see if any part of the coil is close to the metal deck. Mount the deck on the mod without the tank and watch it when you pulse the fire switch to see if there's contact anywhere but the leads on each end.

If you have a meter that reads resistance, take the batteries out of the mod and connect the alligator clips to the coil deck posts. Set it on R times 1 (Rx1) and wiggle the coils to check for variance in resistance. If you see resistance change look under and around the coil for spots where the coil could be touching the frame of the coil deck.

If all that fails replace the coil and try again. Maybe you have a cracked clapton coil wire that's making and breaking the circuit. That may be a good first try at solving the problem.

 

[Zaryk]

If it is jumping that much, I would assume that the mod is faulty. If You are comfortable with doing so, take the mod apart and clean the 510 and board and see if that helps.

 

[Ceejay0875]

Try thr STM on a different mod. If it does the same thing it's the STM. Try a different coil. If it's still doing it check the base of your STM around the connector pin. A couple months ago I had a STM that I had been using daily for two years that was going wonky no matter what mod I used it on. Come to find out, around the pin there is an oring or gasket or something (forgive my nontechnicalness) that had worn out over time. I put a new base on it (believe the correct terminology is "airflow control valve") and completely fixed the problem. New ones can be acquired through fasttech for under $4. Good luck!

 

[Frenchfry1942]

It's all about eliminating possibilities.

When you said the ohms jumped a bit, I thought minor issue. But jumping up that high...(gasp!) Yes, try a different mod. If that doesn't fix the problem then it is somewhere in your STM. Or, the STM connecting to the mod.