Help! Temp control has gone crazy!

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Eskie

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Wait, which Therion did you get, the 75 or the 133 (don't mind my crappy memory)? If you are using the 133/200, be sure to apply the latest firmware patch as it improves performance with 316L quite a bit. If you're using eSribe v1.2 it should update for you.

The tiny fluctuations in real time with the atomizer analyzer isn't unusual with 0.001-2 bopping around. If your build is stable, and that's your baseline cold resistance all should be well. If you are having a flaky or unstable resistance you can try to simply lock the resistance at the cold value, and the board will calculate off that, but typically dna boards should not require that to be locked down.

Edit: remember, the cold resistance is affected by the ambient temperature, so if you're in a location where the temp will vary, the cold resistance will as well. If your room temperature goes from 70 to 75 degrees and your tank is at that same temp (it should be if at rest and not hot from use) the cold resistance will be slightly different. Resistance is determined by temperature regardless how the metal reaches. Granted, a change of 5 degrees will only change resistance by only 0.01 or 0.001 ohm, but those small changes in baseline are exaclty what's being used to calculate the applied current.
 
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MikeB

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Wait, which Therion did you get, the 75 or the 133 (don't mind my crappy memory)? If you are using the 133/200, be sure to apply the latest firmware patch as it improves performance with 316L quite a bit. If you're using eSribe v1.2 it should update for you.

The tiny fluctuations in real time with the atomizer analyzer isn't unusual with 0.001-2 bopping around. If your build is stable, and that's your baseline cold resistance all should be well. If you are having a flaky or unstable resistance you can try to simply lock the resistance at the cold value, and the board will calculate off that, but typically DNA boards should not require that to be locked down.

Edit: remember, the cold resistance is affected by the ambient temperature, so if you're in a location where the temp will vary, the cold resistance will as well. If your room temperature goes from 70 to 75 degrees and your tank is at that same temp (it should be if at rest and not hot from use) the cold resistance will be slightly different. Resistance is determined by temperature regardless how the metal reaches. Granted, a change of 5 degrees will only change resistance by only 0.01 or 0.001 ohm, but those small changes in baseline are exaclty what's being used to calculate the applied current.

Yea, the Therion 133, and it sure is pretty in red leather. :) I'm running the lasted escribe and both the software and my device are updated.

So.... yea, this just isn't working.

The resistance shown on the Therion's screen has varied from 0.63 ohms to 0.68 cold ohms in the last 12 hours, a variation of 8% of total ohms. As a result, I've been vaping between 490f and 520f for it to feel right. I've done it all, checked everything, every conceivable connection, I built a super simple coil that I could make sure was tight and touching nothing, and I messed with the coil and screws while watching the analyzer (it was stable). Tonight will be a week that I've been fiddling with this, including two DNA devices, and two tanks. I'm out of ideas. I can't diagnose the problem. I'm sorry guys, you've all been a wonderful help, but I'm throwing in the towel before this actually drives me nuts.

So, I figured I'd go back to just power mode, but to my surprise that doesn't work for me any more. It used to, but now I've become accustomed to a warm vape from start to finish (at whatever arbitrary temp DNA thinks it's at). In power mode, I can really feel how cool it starts off, and how harsh it is at the finish.

I'm back to TC mode now. Temperature control IS working, in that my vape is consistent across a puff, it just can't seem to decide what my cold ohms are. Aside from that, I'm getting a good vape wherever I'm at temp-wise, and a good vape is really all I'm after in the end. I'm just going to accept that up is warmer, down is cooler -- adjust as needed to taste. What more can I do? I can accept that and live with its imperfection.
 

Dubminer

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Yea, the Therion 133, and it sure is pretty in red leather. :) I'm running the lasted escribe and both the software and my device are updated.

So.... yea, this just isn't working.

The resistance shown on the Therion's screen has varied from 0.63 ohms to 0.68 cold ohms in the last 12 hours, a variation of 8% of total ohms. As a result, I've been vaping between 490f and 520f for it to feel right. I've done it all, checked everything, every conceivable connection, I built a super simple coil that I could make sure was tight and touching nothing, and I messed with the coil and screws while watching the analyzer (it was stable). Tonight will be a week that I've been fiddling with this, including two DNA devices, and two tanks. I'm out of ideas. I can't diagnose the problem. I'm sorry guys, you've all been a wonderful help, but I'm throwing in the towel before this actually drives me nuts.

So, I figured I'd go back to just power mode, but to my surprise that doesn't work for me any more. It used to, but now I've become accustomed to a warm vape from start to finish (at whatever arbitrary temp DNA thinks it's at). In power mode, I can really feel how cool it starts off, and how harsh it is at the finish.

I'm back to TC mode now. Temperature control IS working, in that my vape is consistent across a puff, it just can't seem to decide what my cold ohms are. Aside from that, I'm getting a good vape wherever I'm at temp-wise, and a good vape is really all I'm after in the end. I'm just going to accept that up is warmer, down is cooler -- adjust as needed to taste. What more can I do? I can accept that and live with its imperfection.
Not sure if this has been mentioned but make sure the screw at the very bottom of the 510 is very tight.If it is not really tight the ohm's will fluctuate.
 

Dubminer

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I don't think it's been mentioned, but I did check it and the nut underneath.
I mentioned it because i had a similar problem at first.I read make sure the screw was tight and i thought it was.After trying again i managed to tighten it maybe a quarter of a turn and that fixed it.Sorry but i am out of ideas now.
 

MikeB

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I mentioned it because i had a similar problem at first.I read make sure the screw was tight and i thought it was.After trying again i managed to tighten it maybe a quarter of a turn and that fixed it.Sorry but i am out of ideas now.

HAHA, me too! I'm completely out of ideas. At this point maybe it's the mod, maybe the last firmware had a bug, maybe some internal in my RTA isn't as sung as it should be, or was off just a hair in the machining. It doesn't matter. I'm just going to live with it. Really, I'm getting a good vape, and adjusting the temp isn't hard at all. I just leave it unlocked. There are worse problems to have.

And all of you guys have been so helpful. Really, I know it takes time to think about, try to diagnose, and make a post. I really appreciate it.

I will check that screw again though! :)
 
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Eskie

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I know TC seems really fiddly, but the main thing is what you found, the steady temp throughout the vape. My feeling is the absolute temperature you select doesn't mater so long as it delivers a consistent feeling vape throughout for you. If you find the spot for that, you're really getting the advantage of TC, and worrying about the precise temperature isn't really necessary. Just enjoy your vape.
 

MikeB

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I know TC seems really fiddly, but the main thing is what you found, the steady temp throughout the vape. My feeling is the absolute temperature you select doesn't mater so long as it delivers a consistent feeling vape throughout for you. If you find the spot for that, you're really getting the advantage of TC, and worrying about the precise temperature isn't really necessary. Just enjoy your vape.

Yes, I agree. As I've said, after vaping with TC, I've now found that I actually can't go back. Vaping in power mode feels lacking now, so that means to me that TC is an improvement even despite its fiddliness. Honestly, if the temp setting had instead been a knob that just said "<Cooler-Warmer>" like in a shower or something, I doubt I would have cared or noticed.

Now that I've quit caring what the temp is set at, and trying to figure out what's "wrong", I've actually been enjoying my vape a lot more. I don't know if ill ever get it pinned down where I can set it and forget it, but if it's giving me a good vape at whatever setting, that's all that matters and there really is nothing "wrong".
 

Eskie

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Yes, I agree. As I've said, after vaping with TC, I've now found that I actually can't go back. Vaping in power mode feels lacking now, so that means to me that TC is an improvement even despite its fiddliness. Honestly, if the temp setting had instead been a knob that just said "<Cooler-Warmer>" like in a shower or something, I doubt I would have cared or noticed.

Now that I've quit caring what the temp is set at, and trying to figure out what's "wrong", I've actually been enjoying my vape a lot more. I don't know if ill ever get it pinned down where I can set it and forget it, but if it's giving me a good vape at whatever setting, that's all that matters and there really is nothing "wrong".

Over time, you'll settle into a routine with it. I find myself sticking to identical builds when rebuilding on my ADV TC setups just so I don't have to fiddle with a different behavior. I save the "experiment with wire" stuff for power mode, and usually not an ADV. Or if it becomes a good ADV, I adjust to suit it for TC. I still raise and lower my temps on occasion to match up to the feel of vape I want. I don't really look at the actual number all that much as long as the vape is good.

But yeah, after experiencing TC and that constant vape, going back to power is just not the same.
 

MikeB

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Over time, you'll settle into a routine with it. I find myself sticking to identical builds when rebuilding on my ADV TC setups just so I don't have to fiddle with a different behavior. I save the "experiment with wire" stuff for power mode, and usually not an ADV. Or if it becomes a good ADV, I adjust to suit it for TC. I still raise and lower my temps on occasion to match up to the feel of vape I want. I don't really look at the actual number all that much as long as the vape is good.

But yeah, after experiencing TC and that constant vape, going back to power is just not the same.

For all the trouble, I feel like I've landed at a pretty good place. It's not where I expected to be, but it's a good place all the same. Thanks again to everyone that contributed to this tread!

One final thought. I'm happy where I am, but should I perhaps consider locking the ohms? Is my situation what that's for, or will it do more harm than good?

If not, I'm happy where I am anyway. I just happened to remember that was an option.
 
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Eskie

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Generally you shouldn't lock resistance, or need to, with a DNA board. If you do have something acting flaky and want to try to just lock in a cold resistance, you can give it a shot and see if it makes the situation better. On a DNA board it's sorta a last ditch effort. Other non-DNA mods may very well require that for consistent performance. Even there, I tend to avoid it if possible.
 

MikeB

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Generally you shouldn't lock resistance, or need to, with a DNA board. If you do have something acting flaky and want to try to just lock in a cold resistance, you can give it a shot and see if it makes the situation better. On a DNA board it's sorta a last ditch effort. Other non-DNA mods may very well require that for consistent performance. Even there, I tend to avoid it if possible.

Good explanation.
 
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MikeB

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Erm, this may e a stupid question, but what happens if you lock your resistance?

As I understand it, it just locks in the initial "cold ohms".

I'm my case, that would mean I'd have been at 0.65 all day instead of 0.63 - 0.68, which may have meant I wouldn't have had to adjust the temp so often. In most cases though, leaving it unlocked is better since it would allow it to calculate a slightly more accurate reading later, and adjust for the ambient room temp. No ambient room temp could account for my variances though, as I understand it.

If I'm wrong on any point, anyone please feel free to correct me.
 
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OhTheAgony

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As I understand it, it just locks in the initial "cold ohms".

I'm my case, that would mean I'd have been at 0.65 all day instead of 0.63 - 0.68, which may have meant I wouldn't have had to adjust the temp so often. In most cases though, leaving it unlocked is better since it would allow it to calculate a slightly more accurate reading later, and adjust for the ambient room temp. No ambient room temp could account for my variances though, as I understand it.

If I'm wrong on any point, anyone please feel free to correct me.

Often it isn't nesecary to lock the resistance but it does mean you have to adjust your temperature more as the resistance varies with the variation in surrounding temperatures. if you lock it at the correct cold resistance there shouldn't be a need to constantly alter the temperature to get the same experience even if the surrounding temperature changes.

If you know the resistance that is accurate for your coil at your surrounding temperature, or a value you feel it vapes at as it should I would just lock it at that. I suspect it'll solve your inconsistency issues. If the mod fails to read the resistance of your preference you can also put it in manually with Escribe in the same tab as the profile you are using. Just tic the box "lock-resistance"and a little window will appear underneath it where you can type in the value.

I had some problems getting a consistent resistance reading during a heat-wave not too long ago and this is how I solved it until our outdoor temperatures came down again.
 

MikeB

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Often it isn't nesecary to lock the resistance but it does mean you have to adjust your temperature more as the resistance varies with the variation in surrounding temperatures. if you lock it at the correct cold resistance there shouldn't be a need to constantly alter the temperature to get the same experience even if the surrounding temperature changes.

If you know the resistance that is accurate for your coil at your surrounding temperature, or a value you feel it vapes at as it should I would just lock it at that. I suspect it'll solve your inconsistency issues. If the mod fails to read the resistance of your preference you can also put it in manually with Escribe in the same tab as the profile you are using. Just tic the box "lock-resistance"and a little window will appear underneath it where you can type in the value.

I had some problems getting a consistent resistance reading during a heat-wave not too long ago and this is how I solved it until our outdoor temperatures came down again.

We'll, I might just give that a try. :)
 
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MikeB

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What kind of screwdrivers are you using?

A set of micro drivers I got from Harbor Freight.

I am getting the screws plenty tight, but I will say that none of my sizes fit the deck screws perfectly. I was planning to look it up to see if they list a size or head type. I''m not worried about the screws being lose, but I am concerned I may strip the heads eventually if I don't find a driver that is a better match.
 

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When I first started tc it was with a Cloupor mini+. I jumped in with both feet. Built a dual ti coil on a Goblin mini, not the best setup to start with but it worked rather well :) I found as the coils got old (gunked) the res. changed so I would re-set it at room temp. Now I just turn the temp up a little until I change the coil. I just had to send a dna75 device back for RMA it died after a month. (prob the battery connection). I took the Serpent mini off it and put it on my Cloupor. I wish I knew the value Cloupor programed ti in the mini+. Hate to say it but at the same setting I'm getting (not better but) a more satisfying vape on the Cloupor.
 

OhTheAgony

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Sorry for my few and short replies recently, life is pretty hectic over here at the moment & I don't get to spend much time online at the moment.

I believe you asked for this though:

30008978081_8834fc8806_b.jpg


Not the best photo but the best I could do with current lighting conditions.

This was a SS316L build I tried shortly. Besides the wire type it is a standard build for me, although normally I use one wrap more. This coil got a little mangled upon installation and I was too rushed to build a new one so I just shortened it by one wrap and installed it anyhoe.

I just pulled it off and I'm back to titanium now but currently trying a smaller single wire coil for the first time since I had Kayfun V5 clones, just to see how most people are experiencing these.

So far I'm not a fan, lol, but I'll try a tank or two to get a better impression.

Did locking the resistance fix the inconsistency issues you been having as I suspected?
 
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