help with a TC build

[Dysxelic_Vepar]

Hello fellow vapers!

I just picked up a dna40 and some 28g 200ni wire. I built my first coil last night (PITA) and temperature thing seems to be working alright. However, the wick looks a bit crisp, but no dry hits or burnt taste. What I'm wondering is, is that normal?

My build: 11 spaced wraps wrapped around posts for best connection. Wicked with rayon.
Temperature set at 420f and 25 watts. When cold, my build reads as .16 ohms.

Here is a pic of the build:

sloppy I know, but that stuff is hard to work with.

If you see something wrong, let me know if I can fix it or should replace it

Tyvm in advance!

 

[RandyF]

If you really want to get the best out of using nickel, you are going to need an atty more suited for the coils you need to build. That one in the pic is not going to make your journey an easy one. Most 3 post atty's just don't give you enough room to build proper coils while keeping the legs as short as possible, and with as few bends as possible (ideally no bends at all).

The best option is a 2 post RDA (Petri, Holmes, Velocity, Hobo v3). The next best option is a 3 post atty with a 4 post hole configuration similar to the MutationX V4. Those will give you room you need to build nice coils and keep the legs as minimal as possible.

Here is an example of a build in my Holmes V2, While this is a great atty for nickle, this version does have a leak issue, so I can't recommend it.

 

[Dysxelic_Vepar]

Thanks Randyf
I'll have to give my magma a shot. Its the only one I have that will be like that.

My last build was in an origin and it is doing the Same thing. Even though I think you helped me figure out the problem (long ugly legs), I'll still show you the build.

actually those legs don't look as bad, I think.

 

[RandyF]

The Magma is a good RDA to build nickel coils on, the only downfall it has is the lack of airflow, that and the screws tend to snip the legs. It is a good idea to file/sand down the bottom of the screws to remove the jagged ends. With the restricted airflow you might see it hitting TP sooner than you like if you have the temperature set under 450F. Over 450F and you are sort of defeating the purpose of using TP in the first place.

You might be able to find a happy medium, but nickel coils need airflow to keep the temp down.

 

[Dysxelic_Vepar]

The Magma is a good RDA to build nickel coils on, the only downfall it has is the lack of airflow, that and the screws tend to snip the legs. It is a good idea to file/sand down the bottom of the screws to remove the jagged ends. With the restricted airflow you might see it hitting TP sooner than you like if you have the temperature set under 450F. Over 450F and you are sort of defeating the purpose of using TP in the first place.

You might be able to find a happy medium, but nickel coils need airflow to keep the temp down.

Only been using not since I last posted but here is what my magma is looking like.

So far so good on the temp set at 440f, 22.2 watts with .15ohm resistance
I also took the ring off that adjusts airflow and it helped a whole lot. Also helps with the condensation build up.

I have vaped it nearly dry 5 times now from full juice well to empty.

 

[Shigura]

I keep both of the holes open for airflow on my Magma, with just a regular 3mm 8 wraps 28g coil comes to about .16 ohms. Vaping with it has been great but honestly I'm not terribly fond of grub screws when it comes to working with Ni200 wire. Running it @430f @30-35 watts and it works perfectly fine as I don't get temp control popping up til the well is emptied. Its a decent atty but your kinda restricted on coil length, but all in all I enjoy mine pretty well. Great for tasting new juice but right now I'm loving this Mutation x V4 which is alot like the Magma, but with much more build room and tons more airflow.

 

[RandyF]

Only been using not since I last posted but here is what my magma is looking like.
*snip*
So far so good on the temp set at 440f, 22.2 watts with .15ohm resistance
I also took the ring off that adjusts airflow and it helped a whole lot. Also helps with the condensation build up.

I have vaped it nearly dry 5 times now from full juice well to empty.

Looks good, much better than the first picture. 2 post atty's, as you probably noticed, are just easier to get good coils with.

It is probably just the angle of the pic, but make sure that coil doesn't drop down and contact that metal with the airflow hole. It will wreak havoc with your resistance reading.

I have the Velocity RDA arriving tomorrow, the clone made by Tobeco. I got it from Eciggity for $20, they sold out their inventory (whatever it was) in about 2 days. The authentic sells for $115, which is also sold out on Avid Vapor's site. It looks like a very promising RDA for nickel coils, or any other coil for that matter. You may want to keep an eye out for when they come back in stock.

 

[Dysxelic_Vepar]

I have the Velocity RDA arriving tomorrow, the clone made by Tobeco. I got it from Eciggity for $20, they sold out their inventory (whatever it was) in about 2 days. The authentic sells for $115, which is also sold out on Avid Vapor's site. It looks like a very promising RDA for nickel coils, or any other coil for that matter. You may want to keep an eye out for when they come back in stock.

Let me know how it is. I'm in the market for a new rda.
Also I left the coil much higher than I would kamthal to watch out for that drop.

 

[dr g]

With the restricted airflow you might see it hitting TP sooner than you like if you have the temperature set under 450F. Over 450F and you are sort of defeating the purpose of using TP in the first place.

No, no not true. Control of temperature in the atomizer is a paradigm shift from kanthal which has no control (i.e. a setting of infinity degrees). As Dr Farsalinos proved, the vaper can detect aldehyde production, so as long as they aren't getting dry hits, there is no inherent issue with temperature being any particular number.

Different builds run at different temperatures and the liquid is not necessarily the temperature displayed.

 

[RandyF]

No, no not true. Control of temperature in the atomizer is a paradigm shift from kanthal which has no control (i.e. a setting of infinity degrees). As Dr Farsalinos proved, the vaper can detect aldehyde production, so as long as they aren't getting dry hits, there is no inherent issue with temperature being any particular number.

Different builds run at different temperatures and the liquid is not necessarily the temperature displayed.

Whatever you just said is probably true. My point was that over 450F, if you run the wick dry you are more than likely going to burn it, something temp protection is fundamentally designed to protect us from.

 

[dr g]

Whatever you just said is probably true. My point was that over 450F, if you run the wick dry you are more than likely going to burn it, something temp protection is fundamentally designed to protect us from.

In my experience, 450 rarely is enough to burn a wick. I think once a wick gets liquid in it, it will always be a little "wet" even when it's white on the outside.

 

[MasteroftheVape]

I'd take a few wraps off the end of that coil. Having too long of a coil causes the middle to burn via juice evaporating before being able to wick to the center.