Help with batteries and mech mods.

[KDC7]

Hello all, I am new here and I have a few questions.

I have just ordered a new mech mod now I'm not a regular mech mod user but I do enjoy using them. On the batteries specs page, it says...

"

• Model: F2500
• Manufacturer: Fogstar
• Country of Origin: China
• Chemistry: INR
• Max. continuous discharge current: 22A
• Nominal capacity: 2500 mAh
• Nominal voltage: 3.6 V
• Discharge end voltage: 2.5 V
• Charging voltage: 4.20 +/- 0.05 V
• Standard charging current: 1.25 A

"

Now the question I have is when I use an ohms law calculator do I use "Normal voltage", "Discharge end voltage" or, "Charging voltage"? I have put all of them into the ohms law calculator and as expected the all gave different results.

The other question I have is what are the best batteries to get for a mech mod? I don't mean brand I just mean Amps wise, Do I go for higher, lower, or middle Amps, if any of this is wrong or if you could give me any pointers on what to do, then please let me know, as I said I am far from a pro with mech mods. Thank you all very much!!

 

[Wraith504]

Hello all, I am new here and I have a few questions.

I have just ordered a new mech mod now I'm not a regular mech mod user but I do enjoy using them. On the batteries specs page, it says...

"

• Model: F2500
• Manufacturer: Fogstar
• Country of Origin: China
• Chemistry: INR
• Max. continuous discharge current: 22A
• Nominal capacity: 2500 mAh
• Nominal voltage: 3.6 V
• Discharge end voltage: 2.5 V
• Charging voltage: 4.20 +/- 0.05 V
• Standard charging current: 1.25 A

"

Now the question I have is when I use an ohms law calculator do I use "Normal voltage", "Discharge end voltage" or, "Charging voltage"? I have put all of them into the ohms law calculator and as expected the all gave different results.

The other question I have is what are the best batteries to get for a mech mod? I don't mean brand I just mean Amps wise, Do I go for higher, lower, or middle Amps, if any of this is wrong or if you could give me any pointers on what to do, then please let me know, as I said I am far from a pro with mech mods. Thank you all very much!!

My first question is do you have a way to check the resistance of your atomizer?

 

[KDC7]

My first question is do you have a way to check the resistance of your atomizer?

Yes, I have the device that you screw your atomizer in to and turn on and it tells you

 

[Baditude]

Now the question I have is when I use an ohms law calculator do I use "Normal voltage", "Discharge end voltage" or, "Charging voltage"? I have put all of them into the ohms law calculator and as expected the all gave different results.

Most folks will agree that you use the voltage of a fully charged battery: 4.2 volts

The other question I have is what are the best batteries to get for a mech mod? I don't mean brand I just mean Amps wise, Do I go for higher, lower, or middle Amps, if any of this is wrong or if you could give me any pointers on what to do, then please let me know, as I said I am far from a pro with mech mods.

The two most important things to know when rebuilding coils on a mechanical is to know the amp limit of the battery you have and to know the measured resistance of your coil.

If you're going to use a mech mod, you have to be able to calculate how many amps you are going to ask your battery to safely provide. Then you have to look at what the "continuous discharge rate" (amp rating) is for the battery. List of Battery Tests

The CDR isn't a suggestion. It's the safe operating limit of the cell.

So if you battery is rated at 20 amps continuous discharge, you should not build anything that requires the battery to provide more than about 18 Amps. You should ALWAYS leave a little "headroom" or safety margin.


In review, when you build your coil and fire it on your mod, it will draw a specific amount of current (amps) from the battery. That current must not be more than the total amps in continuous discharge rate of the battery, or very bad things could happen.

1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.15 ohms = 28 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway​

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations

• As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

I will strongly argue that the BRAND of batteries that you use is extremely important. It is equally important to use AUTHENTIC brand batteries obtained from a TRUSTED and REPUTABLE battery supplier to decrease the chances of getting a counterfeit cell. Limit your purchases to brands made by LG, Samsung, Sony, and AW; any other brand is rewrapping cells of unknown origin and quality.

www.liionwholesale.com
www.imrbatteries.com
www.illumn.com
www.rtdvapor.com
www.batterybro.com
www.orbtronic.com
www.nkon.nl
www.akkuteile.de
Welcome to Ecolux. The UK's Battery and accessory specialists. Wide range of authentic leading brands in stock ready for immediate dispatch.​

Are You Using a Rewrap (Rebranded) Battery?

• Learn what a rewrap cell is. If you are using rebranded cells, does that mean it is inferior, poor quality, or even dangerous? Which batteries are suspected to be rebranded batteries?

Battery Basics for Mods: The Definative Battery Guide for Vaping

• A popular and essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

• Covers the differences between a mechanical vs. regulated mod, essential safety accessories, optional safety accessories to add layers of safety to your mech, routine maintanance, use of proper batteries, proper ventilation, low resistance vaping, and faux hybrid mods.

 

[KDC7]

Thanks very much! This helps a hell of a lot and makes much more sense than half the stuff online! You've been a great help. Thanks very much for your time!!

 

[Baditude]

When using a mechanical mod, KNOW what you are doing and always be on your toes with a mind towards SAFETY. The only protection you have is what is between your ears, so knowledge is golden.

 

[vapdivrr]

Rtd vapors, great authentic batteries and great prices too. Just reupped on a bunch of Sony vct4's for about 4 dollars per battery with the weekend sale...probably going until midnight with cyber monday

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[bwh79]

The CDR isn't a suggestion. It's the safe operating limit of the cell.

Well, it's sort of a suggestion, and it's not really about safety but about battery longevity. As such, it does have a significant safety margin built right in. Probably still a good "speed limit" for beginning vapers, but with knowledge and experience, you might push a little farther. If you don't care about cycle life, you can (safely, continuously) discharge batteries somewhat higher than CDR (see "Whats is the 'Maximum Vaping Amps' in Mooch's safety rating tables?") They'll get awful hot, and they won't live very long, but they won't go "pop," either.

"CDR is not a safety or performance limit. It is a statement about how hard you can discharge the battery every single cycle, from 4.2V down to 2.5V, without losing more than a certain amount of capacity, or gaining a certain amount of internal resistance, after a certain number of cycles. It is the "every day" level you can operate at and still get good performance and good overall battery life. The CDR has almost nothing to do with safety except that because it is chosen to ensure decent cycle life it ends up setting a discharge current level that results in a huge safety margin."

The other question I have is what are the best batteries to get for a mech mod? I don't mean brand I just mean Amps wise, Do I go for higher, lower, or middle Amps, if any of this is wrong or if you could give me any pointers on what to do, then please let me know, as I said I am far from a pro with mech mods. Thank you all very much!!

Well the thing is, you can't trust the amps rating, unless you trust the brand. There are only a very few (four? There's Sony, Samsung, LG, and then I think that Panasonic and Sanyo are the same company) manufacturers of 18650 batteries. Cells of the highest quality receive the companies' own branding and are sold as such. Those that don't meet the highest quality standards (designated "B-bin" or "C-bin" batteries) are sold off to other companies, who apply their own brand label and re-sell them at higher prices. In order to command these higher prices, they make outrageous claims about their capabilities, but you have to remember that these are simply poorer versions of the same cells being offered by the big four that didn't pass quality control. Your best bet would be to check out @Mooch's blog for his latest battery charts; find one that has the highest mAh capacity available while still maintaining your required amp draw, and purchase it from one of the trusted sellers on his list.

 

[suprtrkr]

That battery is almost certainly a re-wrap, so there's no real way to tell what cell is under the hood. FWIW, the 2500mAh capacity lines up well with stated CDR of 22A. What battery you should be using is very much dependent on how you coil your mech. If you're a +ohm tootle puffer and like coils in the 1.8Ω range, practically anything will do. If you're headed down into subohm territory, you want more battery in there. Be aware, however, as ampacity of the cell goes up, capacity goes down, so you'll be charging more often. I recommend 25+ amp cells for mechs, just because you get a thicker safety margin in case something goes south. Sony VTC4s were all I would touch for a long time, but now the VTC5A is a good replacement. I also use, and like, the LG HD2C, another 25A cell. Any LG cell in the HB series is a 30A cell and they are used a lot in competitions and so forth. Another little tip: unless it just isn't enough vape for you, coils below about .5Ω on a one battery tube just about eat batteries; you'll want several spares if you're going to be out for a while. This is even more true with 25A+ cells due to the lower capacity. One can, and many do, vape safely and happily on 20A cells, but stay away from deep subohm with them. Good choices are the Samsung 25R or 30Q, or the LG HG2 or HG4. Welcome to the board.

 

[BrotherBob]

Welcome and glad you joined.
Might like to read:
http://best-e-cigarette-guide.com/e...cigarettes/sub-ohm-vaping-perks-and-problems/
What is Sub Ohm Vaping? Our Sub Ohm Vaping Guide & Tips
https://spinfuel.com/sub-ohm-vaping/
Battery safety
Care and Use of 510, eGo and Variable Voltage Batteries
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/7-information-resources-for-your-first-rba.4454/
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/ecf-sub-ohm-advisory.562106/

 

[Kaancan98]

ım searching 35-40A 18650 batterys to. Anybod give a some advice please.

 

[stols001]

I don't think there is such an animal, at least not a rewrapped, rebranded battery that probably ISN'T 35--40A, I think the most available is 30A. Although if I'm incorrect, I'm sure someone will be along to correct me.

Apologies if I'm not correct, in advance, in which case I guess I will learn something also

Anna

 

[KenD]

ım searching 35-40A 18650 batterys to. Anybod give a some advice please.

There are no 18650s with a cdr higher than 30 amps. For 30 amps you have the LG hb2/4/6, and you'll be limited to 1500 mAh.

Sent from my Thor E using Tapatalk

 

[Baditude]

ım searching 35-40A 18650 batterys to. Anybod give a some advice please.

No such animal. Many re-wrap companies and suppliers will "advertise" or otherwise claim their batteries are 30 amp plus, but that is always an exageration or a pulse rating. Are You Using a Rewrap (Rebranded) Battery?

Where batteries are concerned, there is often very little truth in advertising. To get to the truth, we must depend upon indepent researchers like Battery Mooch.

There are no 18650 batteries with a genuine rating over 30A!
Battery Amp Ratings: Continuous vs Pulse Ratings
Battery pulse ratings are useless! | E-Cigarette Forum​

To repeat:

...there are no 18650 batteries with a true continuous rating over 30A.

...there are none rated at 3000mAh with a true continuous rating over 20A.

...there are none rated over-3000mAh with a true continuous rating over 10A.

...pulse or battery company "max" ratings are useless and can't be used to compare batteries.