Help with Orchid V4

[dirtybirdy]

I have been using kayfun's for a while now and decided I would try an Orchid V4 since they are suppose to be so good.

Well anyways I'm not use to the 4 post on any rda so when putting dual coils in do I use the end post skip a hole and put the the Kanthal through that one or put them right next to each other.

Also I can't figure out how I am suppose to wick it. I can't find any pictures of what it is suppose to look like. Can someone tell me where the cotton is suppose to be or what it's suppose to look like once wicked.

I appreciate any help and if you have pictures that is even better .

Thanks.

 

[Ringo®]

Whatever works easiest for you. Just make sure the final product has the coils over the intake holes.

 

[BlueCanary]

That is the first and only RBA that I have ever built coils for. I have no photos, and am not very good at describing things…but I was taught to skip a hole. The first coil goes in the first post, skips the second post hole and goes in the third…same with the other side, the second post of that coil goes through the one you skipped the first time. And the cotton gets cut shorter than any cotton I have seen people post pics of/using in other RBAs. You basically snip it off so that it hangs down and just touches the flat part of the deck over the top of where the channel is for the juice. Too long/too much and you can't screw the chimney down all the way and even if you can it doesn't wick right and makes the flavor not so great. Once you get it right, though, I think you'll really like the Orchid. I like mine…though it is no good at all for out and about, because of the way you have to cut the cotton I guess, if it moves around too much juice comes out the airflow holes pretty bad. Granted I've never built/tried a Kayfun so I have nothing to compare it too.

Also, (and this may be for any RBA tank like that, I'm still a newbie so ignore me if my ignorance is showing) you have to leave a decent air bubble in the tank when filling or it will leak pretty badly. It took me several tries when I got mine home to replicate what the girls at the shop showed me.

 

[dirtybirdy]

Ok well when I skip a post hole for example if I have a coil in on one side I will go ahead and cut the excess kanthal off. So when I put my coil in on the other side I can not seem to cut the kanthal off as much as I want because the other coil is in the way.

I use 26g on my Kayfun. I was wanting to know also maybe what the ideal gauge to use? I tried to do it with 28g just because I couldn't find my 26g but it started breaking after I heated it up. Maybe because I was messing with a lot.

 

[havinfun1]

This should help.

 

[ginny005]

Skip a hole. If not your coil won't be positioned over the air hole correctly if u don't. For the leads there are a few options u can cut them before u insert the second coil, you can twist them off before or after the second coil is installed, or bend them upward and cut as close to the post as possible then take a small screwdriver or tool of your choice to press the remaining part as close to the post as possible and as from away from the opposite coil. I use .28 or .30, but I usually run mine between .7 and 1.3 depending on which juice/device I plan to use.

 

[BlueCanary]

It's a pain to cut that excess wire off the second, for sure. I have only used 26 gauge wire, I have had no luck with anything smaller because I break it too. It just took me some fiddling to get it to where I could cut off the excess without messing up the coil on the other side, and TBH sometimes there is still some left that I'd rather not have there, I've just used my tweezers to kind of push it up so it's not touching the coil on the other side, bend it up a little so it's flush with the post facing up. It does not seem to bother it. I've been shooting for 1.5 and doing OK with it, I've rebuilt my coils a few times just to get the hang of it, and once because I broke the coil changing out the cotton. Another thing I've noticed is that there is a fine line between screwing the post screws down tight enough that the coil isn't wobbly, and screwing them down so tight that it snaps the wire inside the post.

IDK what you use to cut your wire…I have a little set of clippers that I bought at the hobby shop that is intended for clipping off the burrs of metal left on the pieces of metal models when you snap them loose from the skeleton. No idea what it is called but it is very flat and thin and sharp and it works well for cutting that excess wire that is behind the coil.

 

[VHRB2014]

Oh Boy do I love my Orchid. Iv got a v2 with the bottom fill and Iv used a v4 chimney on it and use a number of KF tanks on it.

You should off set the pos post leads. I use 28, but you can use anything between 24 to 30 and be fine. I just bend my excess wire up and push it down on to the post, after I have cut it as short as I can.

IMHO, it is the easiest and simplest RBA I have. The wicking can be chore at first, but once you get it down, its like riding a bike, you can not screw it up once you know what it should look like when done (half way down the channel, with just enough cotton to make it slightly translucent when juiced up, if you cant see through it, its probably too much cotton. I just cut the wick straight across, pull my tail down into the channel as mentioned, and tuck the rest up onto the deck to form a ball, absolutely nothing fancy). And once you get to that point, the simplicity of the atty starts to shine, you can break it down and re-wick it in a couple of minutes, recoil it in half an hour.

Oh, I did a search if you have the time (or dive in, that`s the only way to learn)

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...d-v1-v2-build-thread.html?highlight=orchid+v2

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/search.php?searchid=28353101

 

[crxess]

I use small angle cutters. never have any problem cutting the leg tags off.

Yes, 1st and 3rd hole for coil legs. 24-26 ga works well. I use 26ga.

Biggest problem I have with the v4 is patience in filling. Dribble/burp, dribble, burp

 

[havinfun1]

It's a pain to cut that excess wire off the second, for sure. I have only used 26 gauge wire, I have had no luck with anything smaller because I break it too. It just took me some fiddling to get it to where I could cut off the excess without messing up the coil on the other side, and TBH sometimes there is still some left that I'd rather not have there, I've just used my tweezers to kind of push it up so it's not touching the coil on the other side, bend it up a little so it's flush with the post facing up. It does not seem to bother it. I've been shooting for 1.5 and doing OK with it, I've rebuilt my coils a few times just to get the hang of it, and once because I broke the coil changing out the cotton. Another thing I've noticed is that there is a fine line between screwing the post screws down tight enough that the coil isn't wobbly, and screwing them down so tight that it snaps the wire inside the post.

IDK what you use to cut your wire…I have a little set of clippers that I bought at the hobby shop that is intended for clipping off the burrs of metal left on the pieces of metal models when you snap them loose from the skeleton. No idea what it is called but it is very flat and thin and sharp and it works well for cutting that excess wire that is behind the coil.

Sprue cutters is probably what you're using.
Excel Hobby Blades Sprue Cutter | Shop Hobby Lobby

 

[Jetsetter]

Try the kayfun top fill cap guys, no more bottom fill, best modification ive made to it. Also increases capacity a bit.

 

[DoubleEwe]

I find that the Orchid does not work very well with high VG juice (70% VG), the ideal seems to be 50/50. You are meant to be able to control juice flow by unscrewing the chimney part, but in reality it will just screw back down when you screw on the topcap. (unless you manage to hold the chimney part steady somehow)

As for the wicking, I find that no wick in the channels is a good move, just a cut the wick ends in line with the edge of the build deck and then make little shoulders around the top of the juice channels.

Personally I prefer the standard orchid tank (23mm) to the Kayfun ones due to the space between the chimney and the tank wall not being very big if you use 22mm width tanks (impedes air bubble movement).

If you find that the Orchid is too much of a bugger to use then I would recommend getting an Aqua v2 clone...

 

[GoombahYah]

I have a v3 Orchid, and just picked up a v4. Both have given me the best flavor/vapor combo of any tank short of an RDA. For wicking, I've found that the most consistent way to get a good vape without dry hits is to use a wicking technique where half of each wick is tucked on the deck under the leads, and half tucked over the coil, between it and the post, as described in this video:



I've had much more success with this than with trying to tuck any in the juice channels, as that seems to actually block juice from flowing in my experience. I've also found that smaller-diameter coils (e.g. 5/16 or 2-2.5mm) work better than larger-diameter coils.

Finally, make sure that the little o-ring that goes in the chimney hole in the cap is in place. The one on my v4 was at the base of the chimney itself, and I lost a whole tank of juice due to the lack of vacuum. The ring had trouble staying seated evenly in the cap, so I found that keeping it at the very top of the chimney itself (< 1mm from the hole) when it's screwed in worked to keep it in place while maintaining a seal. The o-ring on the v3 cap was and still is properly in place, so it may have been a manufacturing or packaging issue (both were clones).