Help with Vapor Shark rDNA 40

[lvdisturbed1]

Hey guys, I'm a brand new owner of a Vapor Shark rDNA 40 device, and need some tips on building on this sucker. I am still waiting for my tempered Ni200 to arrive from the UK so this is strictly for kanthal builds at the moment. I have been vaping for over 3 years, and been using mechanical mods and RDAs for the last 1.5 years. My experience with regulated mods stopped with the sigelei Legend.

Any tips on building with kanthal on this device? I usually build between .20 and .25 ohms on mechanical mods and love the warm, dense, flavorful vape I get out of it. Everything seems different (and rightly so) on this regulated mod though. My inexperience with them now makes building coils a daunting task. Please give a regulated mod noob some tips!

 

[BOX MOD LYFE]

Well since this is a regulated device, you can build as you like. However I would suggest building no lower than around .40 ohms. Since the device can only go to 40 watts, you have to build with that in mind. That's how I do it anyway. It's nice being able to set your device at a certain level.

 

[Ryedan]

Hey guys, I'm a brand new owner of a Vapor Shark rDNA 40 device, and need some tips on building on this sucker.

I can't help you myself because I don't have one, but the DNA40 intro thread is here. It's a long thread, but that means there is a lot of information there and you can always ask questions too

Best of luck with it

 

[ARCHMAN]

You can also search within a thread... Or at least you can if you're a "verified member." I belong to 4-5 (different hobbies) forums that use this same interface and ECF is a madhouse! Of the bunch I use this one the most, but it's incredibly poorly organized!


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[ARCHMAN]

Oh, and the Vapor Shark will very likely be my next mod purchase. My plan is to get straight to building with titanium wire and organic cotton on a Veritas RDA at .6 ohms.


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[Prototype715]

I just bought one...should be here next week. I also bought some Ni200 28, 30, &32 Ga. I have been reading about folks experiementing with different ID and twisting NI200 and Kanthal. I feel like a newb again. So much experimentation to do...just after i had it all figured out.

Archman. I've read good things about Titanium on the Veritas. Where do you get titanium wire? Is it pure Ti? What Gauge? I have only been able to find Ti coated copper core.

 

[peraspera]

The DNA 40 specs are very generous so you can pretty much build whatever you prefer. Specs are 1–40 watts, 1–9 volts, 16 amps for .7–2 oHms. builds.

However what you are using now is producing somewhere in the neighborhood of 60–80+ watts so I don't know if you will be happy with the rDNA 40. You might try building higher oHms with thinner wire than what you are using now. That will give you very fast coil heat and more surface area for flavor. Steam Engine can be helpful with building.

 

[Gallowaystx]

YOu needn't worry about resistance due to the regulation. Build higher and with thinner gauge wire and crank the watts up. I like to build around 0.8 with 28g kanthal and it's about perfect.

 

[lvdisturbed1]

Thanks for the info. I guess I just need to experiment with higher resistance coils.

 

[ARCHMAN]

Unfortunately it's 30ga
http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Titanium-Laser-Weight-Round-Wire-30-Ga-Soft/699500?Pos=1

 

[coffeebum]

I have been experimenting with nickle coils, seems I skipped the kanthal altogether.
Currently have temp protection in my Magma clone, Subtank and Mini Subtank.
Using the decks in the subtanks, playing with rebuilding the OCC coils with nickle.
Tried Japanese organic cotton, getting better results wicking with Rayon.

 

[BluzKing]

I've just started using Nickel wire in my VS rDNA 40, and it's been fun but certainly tries one's patience! Using Kanthal is no real issue, you're just using a regulated mod that will not go past 40 Watts (or whatever you set it at) regardless of your build, so have at it and experiment. Nickel, however, is another beast altogether. The resistance is so incredibly low by design that it seems scary at first. My present build is a dual coil setup, 28g nickel @ 10 wraps per coil in a dripper (it is a tight fit) that reads .08 ohms! I've set the temperature limit at 420 degrees and fire it at the full 40 watts and it is a slightly warm, very satisfying vape. The temp control limits the heat buildup, so long draws are no problem, and dry hits are practically non-existent. I think I'm gonna like it after several tries at getting it right.

 

[peraspera]

...My present build is a dual coil setup, 28g nickel @ 10 wraps per coil in a dripper (it is a tight fit) that reads .08 ohms!...

DNA 40 specs for Ni200 are .1–1 oHm. The chip should soft limit a .08 oHm build.

 

[BluzKing]

DNA 40 specs for Ni200 are .1–1 oHm. The chip should soft limit a .08 oHm build.

And that is precisely what it should do. On a 6-7 second draw, the wattage will fluctuate between 37 - 40 watts, but the TP seldom kicks in. I do keep my coils saturated and use a lot of airflow, so I think that helps keep the coils cooler as well. The display will occasionally flash "Ohms Too Low" but only for a hundredth of a second or so. I was hoping for at least a .1 build, but I think I'll need to go to a lower gauge nickel (24-26) and see if that will help

 

[peraspera]

Lower gauge wire produces lower oHms, not higher. Many people find working with the thinner wire for dual coils to be somewhat of a challenge. Going with 3mm ID coils if you have the space help a bit with getting a wee bit of extra oHmage.