Hey! Newbie Here!

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Hey! My name is Krista! I have been registered for awhile. I have been vaping for about a year now, but was using a crappy Ego battery with a T3S till about a week ago when I was gifted my 20W istick by my wonderful boyfriend, which I LOVE! He uses one with the Lemo & loves his.

Now I have to decide upon which tank I want. I am stuck between the Lemo Drop & the Kanger Sub tank Mini. Decisions Desicions!
 

edyle

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Hey! My name is Krista! I have been registered for awhile. I have been vaping for about a year now, but was using a crappy Ego battery with a T3S till about a week ago when I was gifted my 20W istick by my wonderful boyfriend, which I LOVE! He uses one with the Lemo & loves his.

Now I have to decide upon which tank I want. I am stuck between the Lemo Drop & the Kanger Sub Tank Mini. Decisions Desicions!

lemo drop
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basically a kayfun type ; not an easy fill;

subtank mini
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I think there's fill holes at the top?



I'm liking the flash e vapour; fills like a protank, and the deck is simple and big, and only 1 airhole to worry about.
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no glass tank though.
 
Yes, I am fairly familar with the Lemo itself as my boyfriend uses it & I like it. However I am just not sure that is what I want. I like that with the Sub Tank I can use either a rebuildable coil or a prebuilt coil. As for that last one, I personally would not want a tank that I can not see my juice in. So I want a glass tank for sure.
 

Rsunderl

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Hi KrittaBug and welcome aboard!

Hope you are aware that the pre-built coils for the Kanger SubTank won't fire on the iStick 20W. The iStick 20W won't go below 1 ohm, and the pre-built SubTank coils are 0.5 ohms.

You can use the RBA option if you want to get into building your own coils, though.

Happy Vaping!
 

edyle

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Yes, I am fairly familar with the Lemo itself as my boyfriend uses it & I like it. However I am just not sure that is what I want. I like that with the Sub Tank I can use either a rebuildable coil or a prebuilt coil. As for that last one, I personally would not want a tank that I can not see my juice in. So I want a glass tank for sure.

Between the lemo and the subtank, I'd go for the subtank.
I haven't got either myself though so I'm not talking from actual experience.

The subtank you have the option to use the prefab heads or the rba heads.
There are spare glass tank tubes for it available.
Recently I also saw spare rba heads available too; If I get myself a subtank I'll pick up a 5 pack of rba heads so I can have a row of heads all ready coiled and wicked ready to go.
It is supposed to fill from the top - a needle bottle should do it quikly; whereas the lemo has the fill port at the bottom so you'd have to take the lemo off the mod to fill/topup.
The one odd thing about the subtank is the metal in the tank instead of a metal jacket outside the tank where it can provide some protection for the glass.
 

Rat2chat2

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to ecf KrittaBug. Nice to meet you and so glad you finally started posting. You have been missing a lot of fun around here. Must not have been to "crappy" a setup if you vaped on it a year before getting something else.
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Lots of people quit smoking with egos and lots still prefer them. All just depends on what you like. But isn't vaping just wonderful. Glad you are liking your new stuff. Have fun and don't be such a stranger. Make yourself at home.
 

drunkenbatman

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Hope you are aware that the pre-built coils for the Kanger SubTank won't fire on the iStick 20W. The iStick 20W won't go below 1 ohm, and the pre-built SubTank coils are 0.5 ohms.

You can use the RBA option if you want to get into building your own coils, though.

1. Welcome! Madison is a gem of a city.

2. Rsunderl is off on the specifics here, but super right to point out the 1ohm limit.

There are two coils for the subtank (and it comes with both), 0.5 and 1.2ohm. The istick will work with the 1.2ohm, but it will be happiest (longevity) and get its max wattage from 1.8ohm I believe. I think I'd go with the subtank mini or the lemo, as you're likely to get better flavor and if you just don't feel like rebuilding or hit a problem, you can always pop in a coil. The coils are also very easy to rebuild, possibly easier to get right than the RTA module.
 
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