high amp battery for mechanical

[Tarnacc]

Hey folks,
I have been messing around with various rebuildables for a while now. Mesh never really excited me except for on a dripping atomizer which I use very often. I bought an AGA some time back but was not overly impressed and it did not seem worth the hassle. Recently I clued in to the the 1 ohm coil. That had never even occured to me, I mean thats crazy talk right? Anyway I gave it a shot and wow I see the potential. I am not prepared to do it properly as I dont have 28 gauge wire and I dont even have a mechanical anymore so I was using the provari but I got a picture of what it could be.

Here is what I am stuck on and am hoping you guys can help me out... batteries. I have seen mentioned a couple of times people talking about the amp rating on various batteries and that batteries such as MNKE have a higher amp rating thus making them preferred over an AW IMR. I have been searching but I have not been able to turn up more then a few offhand comments about these batteries.

Is MNKE a brand or battery type? Where can I find these batteries? I am planning on using a telescoping mod so button vs flat top is not a fit issue but does that effect the protection in the batteries? I have it in my head that the button top is indicative of the battery having a protection circuit but I could be way off on that.

 

[jasl90]

MNKE batteries, like AW IMR, batteries are protected my the fact that they use a LiMn battery chemistry. They neither need nor have a PCB protection board.

The one place where they seem to be available on a regular basis is RTD Vapors.

 

[finagle69]

The thing is, you don't need that at all. You need to brush up on some V=IR

MNKE max discharge rate = 30A
Power, P = V*I, or P = I*I*R
Ex. 3.7V * 30A = 111 Watts, or 30A*30A*0.7Ohm (super low res coil) = 630 Watts (lol) Not gonna happen.

Now an AW IMR max discharge rate = 10A
Ex. 3.7V * 10A = 37 Watts, or 10A*10A*0.7Ohm = 70 Watts.

The AW still has plenty of power available for anything you could actually use. You simply don't need the high amp drain of an MNKE.

 

[Tarnacc]

Thank you for that tip jasl, even if I dont wind up using MNKE, I have never seen RTD vapor and they look great!

You are correct finagle, I am not well versed in V+ABC...=IM...IR... Thank you for that information. So from those numbers it is clear that I would never aproach the upper limit of the MNKE but does having that extra room make it easier on the battery?

 

[beanpusher]

Thank you for that tip jasl, even if I dont wind up using MNKE, I have never seen RTD vapor and they look great!

You are correct finagle, I am not well versed in V+ABC...=IM...IR... Thank you for that information. So from those numbers it is clear that I would never aproach the upper limit of the MNKE but does having that extra room make it easier on the battery?

its really up to you, for now getting into sub ohms an aw high drain imr will do. if ur gonna be sticking around .5 ohms you might want to consider mnke's. i use aw's and they work great. the ratings do decrease with battery size stick with the 18500 & 18650.

but most important always meter ur build on ur provari before using it on a mechanical. you're only as safe as how much safety you put into it.

 

[Tarnacc]

Well that pretty much seals it for me then. Ill just stick with the AW IMR, anything that simplifys life is good. I cant imagine going down to .5 ohms but then i couldnt imagine .8 to 1 ohm not so long ago either so who knows.

I meter and monitor everything and though I have never used one I plan on a safety fuse for any time I use the mechanical.

 

[Nanooks]

The thing is, you don't need that at all. You need to brush up on some V=IR

MNKE max discharge rate = 30A
Power, P = V*I, or P = I*I*R
Ex. 3.7V * 30A = 111 Watts, or 30A*30A*0.7Ohm (super low res coil) = 630 Watts (lol) Not gonna happen.

Now an AW IMR max discharge rate = 10A
Ex. 3.7V * 10A = 37 Watts, or 10A*10A*0.7Ohm = 70 Watts.

The AW still has plenty of power available for anything you could actually use. You simply don't need the high amp drain of an MNKE.

P=V(square)/R, or I=E/R so 3.7v*3.7v/.5ohms = 27 watts, 3.7v/.5ohms = 7.4 amps. In other words a .5 ohm coil wont even draw 10 amps. Even a newly charged battery at 4.2 volts with .5 ohm coil will draw only 8.4 amps.

 

[finagle69]

^ Exactly. For the majority of coils that people build, one could even get away with using a truly protected AW 18** black Li-Ion battery. Their max discharge rate is 6.2 Amps. Still plenty of juice to get you to 22 Watts.

 

[pdib]

All that is correct and good; however there is also the issue of performance. It is agreed, and as yet uncontested, among super low resistance vapers that MNKE readily outperforms AW. Also, regardless of keeping within max discharge ratings, it is safer and more effective to use a battery whose limits you never even see on the horizon. You can check some customer reviews at avidvaper.com

 

[finagle69]

All that is correct and good; however there is also the issue of performance. It is agreed, and as yet uncontested, among super low resistance vapers that MNKE readily outperforms AW. Also, regardless of keeping within max discharge ratings, it is safer and more effective to use a battery whose limits you never even see on the horizon. You can check some customer reviews at avidvaper.com

You're correct to a point. Ratings are there for a reason and are typically created with a safety factor in mind. Usually no less than 1.25, sometimes 1.5 or greater.

Electrically, a device would theoretically give its all up to its limit, but generally the closer you get to a limit, the more the device is constrained. Mostly by physical characteristics.

The physical characteristics for a battery that have to do with this will be its internal construction and internal resistance. If the MNKE are manufactured with lower internal resistance, then they will experience lower voltage drop under load.

 

[pdib]

You're correct to a point. Ratings are there for a reason and are typically created with a safety factor in mind. Usually no less than 1.25, sometimes 1.5 or greater.

Electrically, a device would theoretically give its all up to its limit, but generally the closer you get to a limit, the more the device is constrained. Mostly by physical characteristics.

The physical characteristics for a battery that have to do with this will be its internal construction and internal resistance. If the MNKE are manufactured with lower internal resistance, then they will experience lower voltage drop under load.

This speaks directly to my suspicions that any good quality battery with only 1500 mAH in an 18650 housing is going to give better performance. Less internal resistance. (Methinks)

 

[finagle69]

No idea how this guy charged the batteries, but take it for what it's worth.

18650 Battery Wars Part 2 - YouTube

I'm cynical, and a EE. I'd suspect these two batteries (MNKE and AW) perform very similarly in practice. Even at low ohm coils.

All of that said, I'm still going to buy one, because I'm curious.

 

[pdib]

Yeah, so the AW was a 1600 mAh, yes? And the MNKE was 1st charge from long term storage? Your right to ask about charging too. Not overly scientific. And my "grain of salt" is personal experience (although that is with an AW 2000mAh). I would certainly buy an AW 1600 before an AW 2000. Thanks for the vid!

 

[pdib]

Sheesh, I totally forgot to mention. The attribute that people ascribe to MNKE (which may be the case with all "little batteries in big boots") is that it delivers more punch deeper into the discharge cycle; whereas the AW 2000 fades noticeably and consistently throughout use. That would be what I would like to see verified in a test.