I have been vaping for a little over 3 months now. I use an Innoken SVD and usually vape using ProTank I's. About a month ago I started rewrapping my own coils. Since the common resistance seems to be from 2.0 to 2.5 ohms I have been wrapping about 6 wraps of 32 gauge kanthal on a 4/40 screw and have been getting anywhere from 2.4 to 2.6 ohms, experimenting with silica of different sizes and cotton. I just wrapped a 4/40 screw with 6 raps of 34 gauge and ended up with 4.0 ohms, much more than I had been. I looked at one of the charts and set my voltage/wattage and tried it. It was not bad at all. Why is it that most vape between 1.8 and 2.8 ohms since I have found that high resistance 4 ohms vapes well also?? Are there any drawbacks to it, any problems to worry about?
High Resistance Vaping
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Because the lower the resistance, the more flavor and vapor production you get without setting your mod to as high of voltage/wattage. This is why people get into sub-ohming with rda's and rba's, because the flavor is a game changer, as well as the amount of vapor being produced. The higher the resistance, essentially, the longer it takes to heat up. When with a .8 ohm build it heats up very fast and you only need a 2-3 second draw compared to a 4.0 probably taking longer without nearly as much flavor. There are no problems whatsoever with high resistance wire, it is much safer than lower resistance/sub ohm builds.
Because with a standard lithium battery that's the range that works out.
using 3.6 volts and 2.5 ohms, that works out to 5 watts.
4 ohm coils are actually being used right now in the dual coils; 2 four ohm coils in parallel which works out to 2 ohms eletrically but with much more hot metal surface area to vaporise liquid.
Once you start going with higher voltages, you can use higher ohm coils. That wasn't possible before VV.
If you like it, run with it, young Skywalker.
There are few safety considerations when moving to higher resistance. Higher resistance places less stress on the battery assuming that you keep your vaping voltage the same (or lower vaping wattage to match properly if you use that mode).
Your wattage setting, if you use that, might not be keeping up, however. Set for 15 watts (the top setting on your device), it's trying to output 7.7 V. I don't think it can do that, so what you set for is not what you get. Assuming your top voltage is 6.0, you're actually vaping at 9 watts, or 2.4 amps draw on a 3.7 volt battery. Nothing stressful, in other words.
If you can tell us what settings you use (VV or VW, and where you set it), it might give a better idea of what the device is doing (or failing to do).
But even in case of a failed setting, the danger is nil from high resistance.
There are few safety considerations when moving to higher resistance. Higher resistance places less stress on the battery assuming that you keep your vaping voltage the same (or lower vaping wattage to match properly if you use that mode).
Your wattage setting, if you use that, might not be keeping up, however. Set for 15 watts (the top setting on your device), it's trying to output 7.7 V. I don't think it can do that, so what you set for is not what you get. Assuming your top voltage is 6.0, you're actually vaping at 9 watts, or 2.4 amps draw on a 3.7 volt battery. Nothing stressful, in other words.
If you can tell us what settings you use (VV or VW, and where you set it), it might give a better idea of what the device is doing (or failing to do).
But even in case of a failed setting, the danger is nil from high resistance.
You don't need any higher wattage than normal; the same wattage will work; the voltage will be higher by 40%.
You'll have some power loss because of losses in the kick/voltage regulation having to up the voltage.
You'll have some power loss because of losses in the kick/voltage regulation having to up the voltage.
Thanks for asking this question - I wondered as well since to me power is power but I think I now get it: Duration of same power is shorter with lower ohm coils since much shorter draw time and coil heats up quicker. I use the MVP 2 constant power setting.
If your talking about using higher ohms and it draining your battery faster. This information would be incorrect.
Using an ohms law calculator i found:
1.6ohms = 2.3 amp draw at 3.7 volts.
Assuming your using the highest voltage setting on an MVP 2.0
5v
4.0ohms
Only a 1.25 amp draw-
Esentially your doubling the lifespan of your mod. UNLESS: You are taking twice as long a pull, in which case your still draining your battery just as fast.
I have used higher ohm coils, it works. I found that lower ohms does take less time to heat up and poroduce more flavor/vapor.. And a warmer vape resulting in more of a "Throat" hit.
When using a VV device that outputs from 3 to 6 volts;
2.0 ohms gives you 4.5 watts at 3V and 18 watts at 6V (18 watts is likely not supported by your PV).
3.0 ohms gives you 3 watts at 3V and 12 watts at 6V.
4.0 ohms gives you 2.25 watts at 3V and 9 watts at 6V.
Most people using typical devices like clearos and cartos vape between 6 and 12 watts. Clearos don't generally support the higher values in this range. Cartos generally do.
A 4.0 ohm coil restricts you to 9 watts maximum with these VV devices. I don't do VW, so I have no experience with them. If they are also volt restricted you'll have the same limitation at whatever voltage that starts at.
2.0 ohms gives you 4.5 watts at 3V and 18 watts at 6V (18 watts is likely not supported by your PV).
3.0 ohms gives you 3 watts at 3V and 12 watts at 6V.
4.0 ohms gives you 2.25 watts at 3V and 9 watts at 6V.
Most people using typical devices like clearos and cartos vape between 6 and 12 watts. Clearos don't generally support the higher values in this range. Cartos generally do.
A 4.0 ohm coil restricts you to 9 watts maximum with these VV devices. I don't do VW, so I have no experience with them. If they are also volt restricted you'll have the same limitation at whatever voltage that starts at.
High ohm 3.5Ω - 4.5Ω pre-built atomizers are still available for purchase at various vendors. They were originally introduced for use with mods running at 6.0 - 7.2 volts nominal, more on a fresh battery charge. Higher voltages can produce the same high wattage that seems to be the latest fad, and if the wattage is high enough, will heat up a coil as fast.
Higher ohms draining my batt faster would be correct because I push the button about 3 times longer. Plus I get satisfactory vape to a lower voltage with low res. In other words I get roughly an hour high res and roughly 3 hours low res w/ 18350 mech.
Vappers, keep in mind that a Li-ion battery does not change its voltage on demand. The voltage on a fresh charge is 4.2 and it goes down to around 3.3 when the mod shuts it down and you recharge it. There is no way to change the voltage of that battery from one moment to the next.
This means that when you ask the mod for 5 volts, the actual battery inside the mod is not increasing its voltage. The mod's output is changed because the regulator uses more battery amps to create mod output volts.
You are correct in saying that higher ohms will not drain the battery faster, you just got to the correct answer incorrectly.
Hope that makes some kind of sense
In any case, the battery inside your mod is chugging along at 3.7 V (nominal). When set at six, increase the amperage drawn from the battery appropriately. Changing the setting on the device alters the chip output, not the battery.
So at 6 V, 2 A (12 watts, in other words), the battery, assuming it's at the midpoint of 3.7 volts, is actually outputting 3.24 A.
How does that work? That's what the voltage converter is in there for.
While I can whip together an oscillating circuit that will ramp 1.2 V nominal NiMH batteries up to 40 V, the amperage alters in tandem. Drawing 1 A from the little battery results in a 30 ma (0.03 A) output at 40 V (assuming no losses, which is not possible).
So at 6 V, 2 A (12 watts, in other words), the battery, assuming it's at the midpoint of 3.7 volts, is actually outputting 3.24 A.
How does that work? That's what the voltage converter is in there for.
While I can whip together an oscillating circuit that will ramp 1.2 V nominal NiMH batteries up to 40 V, the amperage alters in tandem. Drawing 1 A from the little battery results in a 30 ma (0.03 A) output at 40 V (assuming no losses, which is not possible).
Vappers:12382276 said:
You're math is correct, just incomplete.
A battery is 4.2volts at full charge and at 100% efficiency. Where does >4.2Volts come from with said battery? Look up boost and buck regulators.. essentially they take extra current from battery and transfer it into voltage..a buck regulator is a controlled/specific voltage drop.
Edit -lol...3 of us, eh?
I'm not going to pretend to be an electrical engineer here. I was only helping the OP to understand that higher ohms would be less of a "POWER" draw from the battery- At any given setting. You all say my math is correct, but incomplete? I dont see where it is incomplete at all. Everything i stated was factual and unless im implying something that even i diddnt know about... there is nothing wrong with my post?
This ^^^^
It's a slow night around here
Just do a little bit more research guys- Youll find the MVP Doesnt use these...
It has to. We already have a word for things that don't use buck/boost circuitry (by whatever name): mechanicals.
A single lithium cell can't, without circuitry to buck or boost the voltage, put out anything other than its native voltage (3.7 nominal).
With no alteration to the voltage setting, there would be a smaller draw from the battery (in VV mode) at higher resistance.
With no alteration to the wattage setting, there will be no change (ignoring losses in the circuit) in the draw from the battery (in VW mode) at higher resistance. Actually, as long as you're in the range the mod can handle, power draw from the lithium cell will not change at any resistance.
So while correct in VV mode, it's not correct in VW mode, which is holding the power output of the battery identical regardless of resistance.
Watts = Volts * Amps
That's handy, because if we set the watts at 12 and we measure our lithium battery at 3.7 volts, we know the controller is drawing 3.24 amp.
If we change atomizers to a different resistance and keep the 12 watt setting, we're still drawing 3.24 amp.
It was just a simple mistake really.
For your calculation of current draw, you used 5v and 4ohm to get the 1.25 amp figure. Which is why they said your math was correct, it is.
The problem is the figure you used for voltage. 5v is the output of the device, not the output of the battery. So when calculating figures for vv/vw devices that use boost/buck circuits you must use the voltage of the battery itself, not the output voltage of the device.
With an output of 5v and 4ohm you get 6.25 watts of power.
With a fully charged battery (4.2v) to obtain 6.25 watts of power you need a current draw of about 1.5 amps. Higher than the other calculation. As the battery drains current draw goes up. With the battery at 3.7v, your current draw is about 1.7 amps.
Considering the boost circuits are nowhere near 100% efficient, it has to draw even more current to overcome the losses in the circuit. Meaning to vape at 6 watts on an APV you might have to draw 3-4 amps from your battery. To vape at 6 watts on a mech you only draw 1.5.
Just a long way of saying, watt for watt, APVs actually draw more current, and beat your battery up worse than mechanicals.
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