Home-torched A7 warning

[FeistyAlice]

So I was playing around with my torch for the first time. Got some nice color on some things but how do I get the shine back? Seems after torching the metal is all rough and porous.

What metal did you torch? I only have experience with SS. I've never had any SS get rough and/or porous. I use a chef's torch with some adjustment of temperature via a little ring; very simple design. The small chef's torch doesn't reach the temps the larger torches reach. Main advice I can give is to keep moving the flame around so that there is some cooling of areas as you are torching. As soon as one spot just starts getting red I stop torching that area but main thing is I have the flame constantly moving. Some people mount cap on something like a secured drill and spin it at slow speed. I just slip cap over needle nose pliers or surgical instrument, wear a knit heat resistant glove on holding hand, silicone hot pads in pan under where I'm holding cap and just move flame up and down while turning cap around. When it gets close to color I want I stop flaming and hold it above pan for a minute or two and then drop onto silicone pads that are in pan. CAP WILL STAY TOO HOT TO TOUCH BARE HANDED FOR SEVERAL MINUTES. I just make sure pan is out of reach of childern, pets, ect., and go do a chore.

DO NOT COOL USING LIQUID. LET IT AIR COOL.

In most cases the oxidation can be removed using low abrasion metal polish and some elbow grease.

Feisty Alice

BTW.. one REOnaut told me about one SS rba he torched that would only go to blue (I think) no matter how many times he removed oxidation and started over. The torched Hornet, in my picture, far right came from factory as blue and no amount of torching will change the color. I haven't, though, tried to remove oxidation to retorch. Not sure why this happens with some.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Ratman]

I had a hornet that I torched and it had a perfect progression through the colors, yellow, old, bronze, brown, blue, purple, gray heading towards as close as black as they will get and then it went back to silver SS color and will not change again despite scotchbrite refinish and retorching. Weirdness!!!

 

[Cavere]

Does anyone have a good video on torching? I'm wanting to do this to my sigelei but some visual advice would make me feel a little more comfortable.

 

[Vaptor]

Check out my heat treated Nimbus clone compared to the SS Vamo.
Would fool any brass lover. That's un-polished.

 

[dragonet]

hey, i torched my, too

 

[MochaNinja]

First attempt IGO-L torch job on a K101 with Davide drip tip

 

[MechTech]

I have the silver k100 and the brass sentinel clone from fasttech, Along with the trident and phoenix v5. Which parts can I torch to change the colors?

k100, seems like I can do the whole thing, except maybe the button piece, and telescopic part? (looks like It has parts inside that shouldn't be heated im guessing, the battery to atty contact?)

sentinel brass - I'm not even sure you can do this with brass, maybe it'll soften it too much?

Going for the purple and blue gradient look also

-Someone on another thread suggested gun bluing, which doesn't seem like a bad idea, but it seems you get better colors by torching it

 

[Jeremy Evans]

a better way to give something the torched look would be to use a kiln if available, that you can set the temp on. But only if you were going for a more solid color. I will find a Temp->Color guide I found.

 

[MechTech]

Joined the club today

Left one had no atty but couldn't leave it out. lol The lighting sucks so it doesn't really show the gradient color goodness from the heat treatment me and my buddy did today. Tried to pull some blue and purp from the k100 battery part but ended up overheating it and got a really cool ghost smoke smear instead, which turned out to be an awesome flaw!