Hot Stealth button

[thejager]

Hey all,
I am having a heat problem as well on my GGTS with Ody (Ody/GGTS connection), i have a dual coil Krinkle style dual coil on the Ody (.9)

I have tried cleaning all the connections but it is still running really hot on the button. I am not sure where to go from here, any help?

 

[Huffelpuff]

First try your adapter and/or atty. When I first got one of my TS there was a rethreader attached improperly. It would heat up as soon as I depressed the button. Your TS shouldn't heat so would try changing that and also making sure that you are not overtightening and that your fuse isn't all the way compressed.

Just some ideas from my limited experience. I'm sure others will jump in w/ more and better advice.

 

[fright88]

Hey all,
I am having a heat problem as well on my GGTS with Ody (Ody/GGTS connection), i have a dual coil Krinkle style dual coil on the Ody (.9)

I have tried cleaning all the connections but it is still running really hot on the button. I am not sure where to go from here, any help?

Probably a stupid question but have you checked the Ody for shorts?

 

[Huffelpuff]

Oops... didn't read the post properly . .. when he said krinkle style dual coil thought he was talking type of atty not ody. Listen to fright

 

[thejager]

How can i check for shorts? What do i look for? and where?

the button only gets hot in this set up, i have a krinkle style single coil 1.5 that doesnt produce the heat and it is on the same GGTS.

is there something weird about the dual coil?

i have tried multiple single coils and no heat, and multiple dual coils and get really hot on each. Tried different batteries etc. I might try the changing of the spring, or installing the fuse upgrade i got. I tried unscrewing it a lot but it still gets hot.

I understand the heat on the lips but the heat on the button has me worried.

 

[fright88]

Only way to check for shorts is to check the resistance of the built ody. Put one probe on the posative pin other probe on Ody base body your meter should be able to get a resistance reading and hold steady.

When I am troubleshooting a short I use the following test procedure.

Test 1 Ceramic housing installed in Ody base no other parts on. If good continue to test 2
Test 2 Knurled ring installed on ceramic housing. Test again if no shorts (steady resistance reading not fluctuating or reading weird stuff) continue to test 3
Test 3 Mouthpiece installed if no shorts procede to step 4
Test 4 Ody completely assembled.
Test 5 Ody installed on GGTS connector
For testing on the connector it is basically the same one probe on the posative pin underside of the connector the other probe on the body of the connector.

If there are no shorts and you are still getting hot button it is probably one of 2 things. Dirty GGTS parts (button, springs battery post ect) or it could be a high amp draw that is heating it up. IMHE low ohm DC setups heat up GGTS buttons. So a 1.5ohm DCC heats up a button more then say a 1.5 SC and a 2 ohm Carto heats it up even less.

Hope this helps a little.

BTW I tried DCC in Ody a few times but always got hot buttons also and that made me nervous. My fingers aren't as nimble as some and the DCC setup was just to much of a PITA for me and not worth the risk of overheating a battery. JMHO though.

 

[thejager]

thanks Fright!
i will try that...and try to clean it again....interesting about the high amp draw

I wish the vapor wasnt so awesome with the DC Krinkle though....if it werent for the heat on the lips and button it would be perfect... would dual coil 1.5 be better? single coil .9?

 

[fright88]

I would imagine if your button issue is from high amp draw then going to 1.5 DC would be better yes. Would it still be as satisfying I don't know as that is a personal taste thing. Hope you get it worked out though and keep us updated!