How can I become introduced to mechanical mods?
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A mechanical mod is a battery tube with no wire, solder, or circuitry. They consist of three main parts: A battery tube, a switch, and a an insulated positive connector. The whole mod with exception to the post that touches your atomizer is the negative part of the circuit. With an atty on your mod, you push the switch, and it closes the connection in the body of the mod, allowing electrical current to flow from the positive side of your battery, into your atty, through the coil, out your atty's threads, into the body of the mod, through the switch, and into the negative side of your battery, ad infinitum (well, until your battery runs out, blows up, or you stop holding the damned switch down, you vapin' maniac you).
You do not have to use an RDA/RBA. Any commercially available low resistance (usually about 1.8Ω) should give a decent vape, unless you like cooler vape, then feel free to play with standard res (2-3Ω).
As for a decent setup, you can spend any where from the $20 range for a cheap Chinese knock-off, that still performs well(some of these take tinkering, others are good out of the box, to 40-$50 for the recent Smoktech mechs (Magneto, Galileo, and Smooth), all the way up to 150-$350 for a high-end mod.
On top of that, you'll need some batteries, the AW IMR's are the most highly recommended: Genuine AW Batteries at RTD Vapor
And a charger. Nitecore i2/i4, and Xstar chargers are good directions to look.
As for other links, you might clarify what you still want to know, There are tons of great articles. I researched every day for a month before I ever got my hands on a mech.
You do not have to use an RDA/RBA. Any commercially available low resistance (usually about 1.8Ω) should give a decent vape, unless you like cooler vape, then feel free to play with standard res (2-3Ω).
As for a decent setup, you can spend any where from the $20 range for a cheap Chinese knock-off, that still performs well(some of these take tinkering, others are good out of the box, to 40-$50 for the recent Smoktech mechs (Magneto, Galileo, and Smooth), all the way up to 150-$350 for a high-end mod.
On top of that, you'll need some batteries, the AW IMR's are the most highly recommended: Genuine AW Batteries at RTD Vapor
And a charger. Nitecore i2/i4, and Xstar chargers are good directions to look.
As for other links, you might clarify what you still want to know, There are tons of great articles. I researched every day for a month before I ever got my hands on a mech.
A mech is just a mod that isn't regulated. With a VV or VW device you can adjust it to your preferred voltage depending on what the resistance of your atomizer is.
A mech delivers only whatever the current voltage of your battery is. So, with a fresh battery you will vape at 4.2 volts, which will slowly weaken as the battery does.
So for example, if you have a mech and attach a 1.8 ohm atomizer it will hit significantly harder than if you used a 2.5 ohm atomizer.
They are used mostly but not exclusively for RBA's and RDA's also for their lack of regulation as to be able to vape with sub-ohm coils.
Plus, the good mechs looks pretty badass.
A mech delivers only whatever the current voltage of your battery is. So, with a fresh battery you will vape at 4.2 volts, which will slowly weaken as the battery does.
So for example, if you have a mech and attach a 1.8 ohm atomizer it will hit significantly harder than if you used a 2.5 ohm atomizer.
They are used mostly but not exclusively for RBA's and RDA's also for their lack of regulation as to be able to vape with sub-ohm coils.
Plus, the good mechs looks pretty badass.
A mechanical mod is designed as simple as they come. A tube or box battery-holder with a mechanical firing button (with no wiring) and a connector to attach the juice attachment.
There will be no regulation of the battery as there is with a variable voltage/wattage mod and no built-in protective circuitry from a micro-processor.
A mechanical mod is dependent upon the voltage directly from the battery. The battery will fire the heating coil in the juice attachment at a fully charged 4.2 volts and will gradually fall in performance until the mod will no long fire at around 3.4 volts. Therefore, the vaping experience will gradually drop in performance as the battery drains.
Most mechs have ventilation holes to allow a venting battery to release hot gas should it fail, and some have a collapsable hot spring to attempt to stop a hot battery from continuing to discharge energy. Lacking superior built-in protection, a mod fuse such as a Vape Safe is recommended against hard-shorts and battery failure.
Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide
Mechanical mods have enjoyed an increase in popularity mainly because they have the ability to bypass the protective circuits of regulated mods, so that they can run sub-ohm coils in their RBA/RDAs. However, there are still many vapors who enjoy using their mechanicals with over-the-counter juice devices such as clearomizers, cartomizers, a drip atomizers.
Information Resources for Your First RBA
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected Battery?
Many mechanical users use a Kick module on top of their battery. This essentially regulates the battery much as a regulated mod does, and adds similar protections that a regulated mod has.
Silver Bullet mod with a Kick on top of the battery
High end mechanicals
There will be no regulation of the battery as there is with a variable voltage/wattage mod and no built-in protective circuitry from a micro-processor.
A mechanical mod is dependent upon the voltage directly from the battery. The battery will fire the heating coil in the juice attachment at a fully charged 4.2 volts and will gradually fall in performance until the mod will no long fire at around 3.4 volts. Therefore, the vaping experience will gradually drop in performance as the battery drains.
Most mechs have ventilation holes to allow a venting battery to release hot gas should it fail, and some have a collapsable hot spring to attempt to stop a hot battery from continuing to discharge energy. Lacking superior built-in protection, a mod fuse such as a Vape Safe is recommended against hard-shorts and battery failure.
Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide
Mechanical mods have enjoyed an increase in popularity mainly because they have the ability to bypass the protective circuits of regulated mods, so that they can run sub-ohm coils in their RBA/RDAs. However, there are still many vapors who enjoy using their mechanicals with over-the-counter juice devices such as clearomizers, cartomizers, a drip atomizers.
Information Resources for Your First RBA
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected Battery?
Many mechanical users use a Kick module on top of their battery. This essentially regulates the battery much as a regulated mod does, and adds similar protections that a regulated mod has.
Silver Bullet mod with a Kick on top of the battery
High end mechanicals
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Ive had my Chiclone for a week now, with an iClear30 on top. I like it better than the ego twist I have.
I spent just under $75 at my local shop for the mod, couple batteries and charger. Yes they are cheaper at fasttech, but I wanted to hold one and play around with it before I bought it. Plus my shop will take care of any issues that may arise.
I spent just under $75 at my local shop for the mod, couple batteries and charger. Yes they are cheaper at fasttech, but I wanted to hold one and play around with it before I bought it. Plus my shop will take care of any issues that may arise.
If you want to build your own coils and use genesis tanks and don't mind messing around to get a good vape get a mech mod. If not just get a nice regulated PVD instead. They do look nice craftsmanship ,materials, ones that are the holy grail $$$,limited runs etc. But other than that they do the same thing....vape.
Mechanical mods were popular long before RBA's existed. They offer simplicity and durability, and are the most likely devices to keep working when they get dropped. They work well with most anything you want to put on top of them, from cartos to clearos to tanks to RBA's. I use AW IMR batteries in them and they hold their voltage pretty flat for a number of hours before they drop off.
The key is matching the right resistance to the 3.7 - 4.2 volt voltage range they typically operate at. For me it is between 1.5 and 2.2 ohms, depending on the delivery device.
The key is matching the right resistance to the 3.7 - 4.2 volt voltage range they typically operate at. For me it is between 1.5 and 2.2 ohms, depending on the delivery device.
Anybody know of a good 18650 mechanical tube mod with a side switch? Not as big as a Bolt, something like a Provari diameter wise. Thanks in advance.
PS. Please don't suggest any bottom fire or pinky fire devices, I don't like them.
PS. Please don't suggest any bottom fire or pinky fire devices, I don't like them.
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Pinky fire? Or thumb fire?
For pinky fire, the "Just GG" - It's telescoping, so it can use any size battery
For thumb fire, the "Poldiac" with 18650 battery tube and pants.
Those would be my suggestions. Both are 22mm, same size as ProVari battery tube... And a little bit shorter than a ProVari with 18650 extension
Like dam718 suggested, there are several styles of side (upper/lower) buttons and bottom switch buttons. For the side style, and similar to the Just GG, you can get an EA MOD, which it's another well machined/solid built mod. Upper style, you could opt for the Roller, Poldiac and I believe the Dingo; these are also well made mods. Bottom switch styles; there are many and you don't like them! lol
happy hunting!
The Podiac is sweet, a little pricey for me right now as I'm getting ready to get set up with a Kayfun Lite Plus. Definitely one to keep in mind though. Thanks!
Thanks Telly, just checked out atmizoo.com and they have some very cool styles.
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