How is it that peoplare able to vape at such a high wattage? If I try anything higher than the lowest setting on my mvp 2.0 or anything higher than 4 volta or 6.5 watts on any of my mods or batteries then it just tastes burnt and disgusting!!! I've tried with all my devices and all my tanks and anything higher than 6.5 watts or 4 volts and its burned to hell and stings on my tongue. The tanks I use are an aspire nautilus with 2.22 or 1.8 ohm coil, an I clear 30B with 1.8 ohm coil, a manger protank II mini with 1.8 ohm coil...theyre all in the upper ones lets say. How are you at such a high wattage?? PLEASE help! This is really discouraging. Thank you in advance.
How Can You Vape Art Such A High Wattage or Voltage???!!!
- Thread starter Jackstand Johnny
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
those tanks really aren't meant to be vaped at high watts/volts. The way they wick doesn't really pull juice in fast enough to work at the higher heats. so you burn wick and get that horrible taste.
Are you talking about people using dna 30's and that 100 watt Gi?
They're not always using the highest settings, and they are normally using rebuildables. With a rebuildable you can use whatever size kanthal you want, you can adjust the wicking how you want, and based on what you do you may need the higher watts/volts to get the vape you want.
Are you talking about people using dna 30's and that 100 watt Gi?
They're not always using the highest settings, and they are normally using rebuildables. With a rebuildable you can use whatever size kanthal you want, you can adjust the wicking how you want, and based on what you do you may need the higher watts/volts to get the vape you want.
I slightly modify my protank heads to allow more juice flow which helps a lot, though I am thinking about just going with rebuildables and ordering pre-wicked coils for those times I don't want to bother building them myself.
I'm pretty sure 4 volts should be more than 6.5 watts with the resistance you are using.
I'm pretty sure 4 volts should be more than 6.5 watts with the resistance you are using.
From what I've read today (so never tried it myself) it's all about wicking and surface area and temperature:
High wattage for lower resistance ohm vaping is using thicker wires who have lower resistances and using more coil wraps in rebuildables. So the actual surface area is larger, and surface temperature is lower and more spread out. So a larger area evaporates more liquid, and the hot area isn't just at one small area.
Wicking plays an important role, since evaporating cools the coil and avoids burning, so as soon as liquid stops the temperature jumps up. Dual coils are also meant to increase the total surface area. Another thing you can do to increase wicking is using less thick liquids e.g more PG than VG and specific aromas. Air flow also plays a role for wicking, the thighter the draw (small hole) the more suction you create that increases the drawing in of eliquid from the tank instead of the air hole. Burning isn't good since it can create other chemical products. I think the best thing you can do safely is to increase your wicking, maybe by replacing the silicone wicks with cotton. Or maybe drilling another hole into the atty casing? But haven't done that either. But from what I've seen, the mass manufactured wicking can easily be improved upon if you do it yourself.
For normal atomizers (I'm gonna try the 1.6 ohm dual coil atty for nautilus next) you don't need that high wattage. Sub ohm and high wattage is why many use mechanical mods because everything is only dependent on the battery then, but it is dangerous if you don't know exactly what you are doing.
What I am wondering is why nobody build some kind of alternative heat spreader atomizer that spreads the heat over a larger surface area so you don't have to waste so much ampere on low resistance coils.
Or why there isn't a manufactured atty that uses thicker wire but really long and many many coils to increase the resistance again, but spread the heat over a larger surface area. Basically something like a dual / triple / quad coils that are connected in series instead of parallel. Or is that what the dual coil attys for the nautilus and aerotank do?
PS: Please correct me if I got anything wrong
High wattage for lower resistance ohm vaping is using thicker wires who have lower resistances and using more coil wraps in rebuildables. So the actual surface area is larger, and surface temperature is lower and more spread out. So a larger area evaporates more liquid, and the hot area isn't just at one small area.
Wicking plays an important role, since evaporating cools the coil and avoids burning, so as soon as liquid stops the temperature jumps up. Dual coils are also meant to increase the total surface area. Another thing you can do to increase wicking is using less thick liquids e.g more PG than VG and specific aromas. Air flow also plays a role for wicking, the thighter the draw (small hole) the more suction you create that increases the drawing in of eliquid from the tank instead of the air hole. Burning isn't good since it can create other chemical products. I think the best thing you can do safely is to increase your wicking, maybe by replacing the silicone wicks with cotton. Or maybe drilling another hole into the atty casing? But haven't done that either. But from what I've seen, the mass manufactured wicking can easily be improved upon if you do it yourself.
For normal atomizers (I'm gonna try the 1.6 ohm dual coil atty for nautilus next) you don't need that high wattage. Sub ohm and high wattage is why many use mechanical mods because everything is only dependent on the battery then, but it is dangerous if you don't know exactly what you are doing.
What I am wondering is why nobody build some kind of alternative heat spreader atomizer that spreads the heat over a larger surface area so you don't have to waste so much ampere on low resistance coils.
Or why there isn't a manufactured atty that uses thicker wire but really long and many many coils to increase the resistance again, but spread the heat over a larger surface area. Basically something like a dual / triple / quad coils that are connected in series instead of parallel. Or is that what the dual coil attys for the nautilus and aerotank do?
PS: Please correct me if I got anything wrong
Last edited:
It all depends on the construction of your delivery device. Carto tanks, Protanks and such I usually vape at no more than 8 watts or so. On the other hand I wrap coils with various wick configurations in a Kayfun Lite and find I'm not getting good performance unless I'm in the 12 -13 watt range. Sub-ohm coils are another story.
Rebuild that protank with a 28g or 30g micro coil at 1.8 ohms, and stuff it with cotton or hemp, it wont burn any more....
I usually run mine at 10-13watts
I usually run mine at 10-13watts
See I've got a kayfun lite that I did my first coil on and it reads 1.6 ohms. I I try to go up to 8 watts its burnt. What ohm range would I need to be in? Just curious. On also this ones for Caged: whaty did you do to your protank to get more juice flow? I've got a protank II and III that are both minis and would like tondo the same thing. Thanks in advance and thanks for the fast replies guys!
The thing to remember about the Kayfun is that wicking is vital. You need to make sure you get the wicks as close to the center deck as possible as not to block the juice channels. I use my kayfun, 1.5 ohm coil, on my heimdall with an 18650. Comes to about 8 watts so that should be perfect. Typically for the Kayfun, higher ohms are better. between 1.3-2.0 is good (from personal experience.)
another I would recommend is a patriot clone. I just started and although I have done days of research before even trying, since I have started, I have been using the patriot clone and have yet to have a unsuccessful coil in it.
I use a Mech Mod and a sony 30amp 18650 and my coil is a micro coil is at .6 ohms with organic cotton wick. this set up can handle up to 29.4 watts, 7 amps at 4.2 volts on a fresh full charge, but I don't usually charge full, ( why i love IMR batteries, life expectancy is not shortened by charging before a full discharge and partial charges are actually recommended.) i normally vape at most 26.667 watts at 6.667 amps, 4 volts through the lowest 18 watts, at 5.5 amps, 3.3 volts. it produces Extreme vapor and flavor. the throat hit is a little rough with the Posiden Lux juice at 12 MG. i may experiment with a .8 ohm soon but i have somewhat grown to like the harshness.
i also agree with the protanks are not supposed to be used at such extremes.
Hope this all helped
Best of luck!
I use a Mech Mod and a sony 30amp 18650 and my coil is a micro coil is at .6 ohms with organic cotton wick. this set up can handle up to 29.4 watts, 7 amps at 4.2 volts on a fresh full charge, but I don't usually charge full, ( why i love IMR batteries, life expectancy is not shortened by charging before a full discharge and partial charges are actually recommended.) i normally vape at most 26.667 watts at 6.667 amps, 4 volts through the lowest 18 watts, at 5.5 amps, 3.3 volts. it produces Extreme vapor and flavor. the throat hit is a little rough with the Posiden Lux juice at 12 MG. i may experiment with a .8 ohm soon but i have somewhat grown to like the harshness.
i also agree with the protanks are not supposed to be used at such extremes.
Hope this all helped
Best of luck!
You should be able to go higher than 8watts in your kayfun lite. The Kayfun is not ideal for super-high wattage but I usually run 16-20 watts with no problems at all. Even at higher watts, burnt taste is not the issue . .melted isolators are the issue. I would say double check your build - make sure your wicks are touching but not blocking the juice channels. If you're not using cotton, try it - I think cotton is perfect for kayfun.
I love Kanger Evods and use them regularly with both stock and rebuilt heads. Stock heads probably max out at around 8 watts. They give a pretty decent vape, though - perfect for ego-twist/spinner type set-up. I also use them in my microstick mechanical mod. In that case, I rebuild the head with cotton at around 1ohm giving about 14-16 watts. I feel like that's about where the stock airflow gives way . .but I've also run into issues with burnt rubber grommets going lower than 1ohm so that's about all I can get, I feel, out of an evod/protank.
If you really want to run high watts you need something like a dripper . .something with no rubber/plastic parts to melt. I go all out with my Trident clone . .but there are lots of good choices for drippers out there.
I run between 14-20 watts regularly on a KFL+. The trick is the wicking keeping up, to prevent the dry hits. My coils are typically between 1.2 and 1.4 with cellucotton rayon wicks. Rayon is a game changer!
Sounds to me like you're not sucking hard enough, no pun intended.
If you don't pull enough vacuum through a Kayfun or clearomizer it simply won't wick.
If you don't pull enough vacuum through a Kayfun or clearomizer it simply won't wick.
Lower ohms (thicker wire) allows you to push more volts through it. 1.6 ohms will start burning much faster than .6 ohms would.
Wicking is probably the issue here. Another issue could very well be that you are filling it too much. The vacuum design of the Kayfun demands that you have an air space in the tank in order for the vacuum to work correctly. When filling, leave a 1-2mm air space or you will get burnt hits until enough liquid has been vaped from the tank to gather a large enough air space for the vacuum to work correctly. If you experience this, you'll need to prime the Kayfun (cover the air intake hole with your finger and pull gently for a second or so - a small bubble should float on up) before every hit until there is a large enough air space so that you won't need to do this.
I vape one of my Kayfuns with a resistance of 1.6Ω at 12.5W and there's no burning in sight except when I fill it too much or use too much cotton in my wick.
- Status
Similar threads
