New to sub ohm/high wattage, need some advice?

[Plumes.91]

hey everyone, plumes.91 here, back to my old tricks here on ecg

i'm new to these super low ohm, super high wattage devices & I could definitely use some help... I mean, I have plenty of experience vaping 1ohm builds, even 0.5 to 1.0 ohm builds... but, 40, 75, 100 watts?? I'm not sure I thoroughly understand this whole high wattage - sub ohm vaping thing.

i understand that tanks have come a long way, and, airflow/wicking has changed, to allow for high wattage vaping with sub ohm coils, right? I personally like a cooler vape. 5 watts w/18mg juice is fine w/ me... what I'm not understanding is how ya'll could POSSIBLY be vaping at 40, 80, 100 watts PERIOD?

Question Number One: HOW is that NOT burning the CRAP out of your wick material?
Question Number Two: HOW are you not getting a sore throat? 18mg @ 5 watts kicks my throat plenty!!
Question Number Three: Do I have to lower my Nic level to vape low ohm, high watt?
Question Number Four: Are today's tanks better equipped to handle low ohms/high wattage?

I guess I'm just not understanding how you would/could vape sub ohm at high wattage. I am currently thinking about buying a 100W mechanical box mod. Now, at 20, 30, 40 watts, and even at 100 watts, what is the experience even LIKE? Is it harsh? Is it purely for clouds/aesthetics, not for pleasure? I don't get it.

 

[Plumes.91]

and, wouldn't you pull LESS battery power if you just used a higher resistance to achieve a high wattage? For instance, would you use LESS battery, if you were pulling 40 watts with a 1.5 ohm coil, rather than using a 0.5 ohm coil to achieve 40 watts at a lower voltage? Or, would that SAVE battery? I'm definitely confused when it comes to battery usage as well Please help! haha

 

[Mike 586]

No, there's be zero change on the battery and to be honest a .5 ohm coil would be drawing under 9 amps, so it isn't particularly hard on a device, sure parts get warm inside but you'd have to chain vape pretty hard to get any over temperature warnings....if the mod has such protection.

But when you start looking at extremely low resistance builds in the current crop of 150W/200W devices, its a completely different story because we're typically talking amp loads about 4 or 5 times higher in devices with wires that are at best only one or two gauges heavier and PCB components that are, if anything, smaller and more susceptible to heat than before. Amp loads in the 40 to 50 amp range on such small wires and non-sinked PCB components in enclosed spaces filled with dead air is a recipe for short device lifespans.

Just looking back over the last year, the SX300 series of boards were among the first major boards to hit amp capabilities of 40A or better, and there's already a pretty clear pattern of failures caused from heat damage to the boards. On the sx350j boards its usually the switching component that fires in bypass mode that fails shut and you've got a $200 mod that will autofire battery voltage forever, the board is kaput. Other 300 series boards without the bypass feature just stop firing. How Evolv's DNA200 will hold up, only time will tell. But I don't see the beef and doubt the board can handle the loads its capable of outputting over the long term. I expect by spring a pattern of failures will begin establishing itself.

That's the thing with undersized wiring and components. They'll work flawlessly, for weeks or months without a single warning sign and the second you do get any kind of warning, the damage is already done.

The point I'm getting at here is yes, you're far, far better off building higher resistance coils to operate at higher power to lessen the amp loads. It won't do a damned thing for your batteries, 40W is 40W regardless of the resistance of the coil, OK you could be looking at over a 10% range from most to least efficient settings but that's beside the point. That said, the fewer amps you can have running through your wire and components, the better. Actually, you could probably take things too far into the high resistance range too, even if it is the better side to err on.

If you want the longest life out of your mod possible, stay well within the margins.

Also, thinner wire is most definitely more efficient. Not from a power standpoint, but a current one, and in circuits current = heat and heat kills. Just an example but #24 has double the surface area and needs just about double the power but 4x the current that #30 does. So you could make a parallel or dual #30s to get the same surface area and power requirements as a single #24 but only need half the current running through your components.

I won't bother muddying the waters with other materials like SS, titanium or nickel other than to say thinner kanthal is the most (from an electrical standpoint) efficient way to get the job done. Whatever way someone wants to vape is up to them, so long as they'r going in understanding the pros and cons to the options, which I think most people don't.

 

[Plumes.91]

Thank you so much for explaining all of that to me. A very interesting read and re-read for sure. I was aware that heat is the enemy of electrical devices but i had no idea that our mods generated enough to shorten the lifespan of our boards and wires. That would explain the great lavatube failures of 2011-2012 yeah? haha. So thank you for the great read on heat/device failure and battery drainage in terms of what will drain the battery faster, and what will not. Very helpful. Is this pure hobby, or are you a tradesman?

HAVE COILS/WICKING ADAPTED TO HIGHER WATTAGES? OR, ARE WE STILL EXPERIENCING BURNT WICKS @ HIGHER WATTS?: I am still in the dark, however, when it comes to how the tanks, specifically, are handling these higher wattages. It is my understanding that the tanks have come a long way in terms of wicking, and airflow. Now, is it wicking and airflow (solely) that's allowing these higher wattages? Because, I know for a fact that if I were to try 40 watts with a CE5 Clearomizer, I'd be puking kidneys from burnt wick. How the hell are these new "sub ohm tanks" handling the higher wattage temperatures? & how is the flavor? I'll admit, YES, I do enjoy blowing a big ol' 4-5 foot cloud out of my trap, but, I do not enjoy very HOT and SCRATCHY vapes.

IS A NICOTINE LEVEL CHANGE NECESSARY WITH HIGHER WATTAGES?: I am also unsure of whether or not I am going to need to change my milligram level. I am noticing that since I've come back to the vape scene, the e-liquid websites that I once frequented to buy my 12, 18, or 24mg juices, are now offering 3, 6, and 12mg juices TOPS. Is this because you NEED TO (or SHOULD) lower your nicotine level when utilizing a higher wattage??? It's seeming that way, to me. Unless we all came together as a community and decided that 18 and 24mg juice just isn't healthy, or that it's just too much nicotine in comparison to a cigarette? So what is the deal with HIGH wattage vaping, and LOW mg e-liquid? Is LOW mg needed w/higher watts?

A big thanks to Mike586 and the entire ECF community for your help in answering these questions for me. Truly appreciated.

 

[plandun]

I only run at 30-50 watts on a 0.5 build on my kanger mini sub ohm but usually around 35 watts is high enough to get a great flavorful taste from my juices. Tried opening up my god mod 180 up to 80 watts and burned the crap out of my wick on my Smok tfv4 and my kanger mini. Just pulled out the burned wick and brushed off the coils and replaced thhe wick and the burn taste was gone and flavor was back. I go to where the wattage is good for me and I also don't k ow how everyone else is vaping at 80-100 watts either but they probably have a higher vg base in their juices I imagine. My juice is 50/50 pg/vg with 12mg of nic in it. Also use Japanese organic cotton in my tanks but th highest I've gone is 50 watts and any higher it burns my wicks.

Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk

 

[Mike 586]

HAVE COILS/WICKING ADAPTED TO HIGHER WATTAGES? OR, ARE WE STILL EXPERIENCING BURNT WICKS @ HIGHER WATTS?

Coils and wicks are the same they've always been, at least as far as the wire goes or how much juice can flow through a piece of cotton. What's really changed are the toppers from RTAs, RDAs and ones using stock coils. There's just no way you could possibly run 100W through a Kayfun Lite, it can't possibly keep up. IF you take something like an Aromamizer RDTA or Goblin mini, or any of the hundreds of devices released in 2015, you'll see post holes are bigger, juice channels and air holes are orders of magnitude bigger.

There are a few common misconceptions between heat/temperature/wattage/current. Some of it is easy to overcome, just check out the temp vs. heat video on the following series. I grew up seeing that series of short videos countless times between shows, but they did the job introducing me to the concepts as a kid back in the early 80s.

Science Videos - Eureka! - YouTube

Basically these bigger coils aren't running any hotter, there's just more metal being heated to a temperature, more or less. There are a few other factors at play i.e. bigger diameter coils with bigger wicks, bigger juice channels in the device along with substantially bigger air holes, at play too.

Generally speaking though, design a coil using something like steam engine and it'll put you in the ball park. Then just adjust power to taste.

IS A NICOTINE LEVEL CHANGE NECESSARY WITH HIGHER WATTAGES?

Yes and no.

First let me say this. Over the last year .a very large segment of the industry has taken a deliberate hard right from being about smoking cessation and a healthier alternative to being about doing absolutely everything in its power to increase the consumption of its existing customers to make them more profitable. By releasing sub-ohm tanks, higher power devices, lower nic level juices, it creates a situation where you just need more. More, wires, wicks, stock coils, juice to even mods because of the amp loads the style of vaping the industry is pushing is deliberately designed to shorten lifespans of regulated gear.

I say deliberate, because it wasn't some cottage industry guy looking to make a cool device to blow clouds who's understanding of the science is limited. It was major industry players like Aspire and Kanger-Tech that really got the sub-ohm ball rolling. Companies with designers and engineers who are highly educated and knew exactly what they were doing and stood to benefit in every conceivable way by driving consumption higher.

Anyway, back to the yes and no answer.

If you plan on vaping high power i.e. over 50W all day long, then yeah you're going to want to cut your nic levels way down because you're consumption can easily increase several times over depending on your starting point.

If you don't get sucked into playing the fool's game the industry is playing and are just after a vape that'll get the job done with the occasional cloud blowing indulgence, then I really see no point to change nic levels you'e used to. Those brief cloud blowing sessions might feel a little overpowering in short order, but IMHO that's a good thing. Its just so easy to fall into the trap of increasing your intake or tolerance to nic and takes a lot more effort to bring back down.

 

[Plumes.91]

yeah no, i had no plans of vaping over my preferred 8 to 10 watts, for the MOST part, however, i did just order 2 sub-ohm tanks (however, i am hopefully sticking to my preferred wattages, unless these new tanks flood at lower wattages, or if their lowest airflow settings are too airy to vape at my lower wattages... That's exactly what I was afraid of. You seemed to have noted that I will indeed be able to vape at my lower wattages with little or no issue, hopefully)

Now, as far as what i meant by "HAVE COILS/WICKING ADAPTED TO HIGHER WATTAGES? OR, ARE WE STILL EXPERIENCING BURNT WICKS @ HIGHER WATTS?" i basically meant to ask, are these new sub ohm tanks MORE capable of utilizing higher wattages, due-to a new design in wicking (IE: larger wick holes, and larger airflow allowances) and i want to know that even though tanks have adopted larger wick and airflow holes, will these tanks be capable of vaping at lower wattages w/out flooding or being too damn airy? I am a mouth to lung, and i despise direct-to-lung hits. (I like 1 large throat hit, per hit, not one dragged-out spongy TH)

From what you are saying, my style of vaping is still best left to RDAs (of course!) but, the sub ohm tanks should be fine with lower wattages as well... hopefully. Hopefully the new designs haven't ruled-out lower wattage vaping w/ them. (I like a cooler vape, with a tight draw.. not the other way around!) So, I am guessing that I will probably adapt just fine. I should be good.

My only other concern is figuring out TC mode. I am fully aware that TC mode actually just monitors the resistance and adjusts wattage based on how the resistance of your coil changes (there is a predictable curve w/pure metal coils) So I do understand the theory, i think... I've read several explanations of what TC mode IS, but not what temperatures are best to set your device AT, in-order to avoid dry hits... I have found that most vaping at higher wattages of around 40-50+, seem to be enjoying a temp setting of/around 400-500 degrees Fahrenheit.... I am wondering if temp setting is different for lower wattage vaping? IE: half of that temp for vaping at 10-30 watts (200-300 degrees?) or, does it not matter what W you're vaping, because 400-500 degrees is the "temperature" at-which your cotton will begin to burn, reguardless of wattage.

I guess I will eventually find this all out for myself, when my new devices arrive. I ordered them yesterday, and they should ship out either this afternoon, or tomorrow. I will soon be playing with all of this new-fangled fad. Should be very interesting. I was tempted to purchase some Kanger T3 clearos and call it a day, rather than buying subohm tanks, but, as long as these tanks will be able to handle my lower wattages without flooding the coil or being too airy, I should be very happy with my purchases. I want to thank you, so much, for having helped me in the way you did. Thank you for the time and the really dedicated answers. I really do appreciate it when someone types as much as I do, haha.

 

[Mad_Squirrell]

18 mg on a .5 ohm coil at 24 watts would choke you out. Simply because the amount of vapor being produced is at least 3-4X what a 1.8 ohm coil head in a protank or whatever would produce .Because of the increase in vapor you most definitely would want to lower your nic. I vape 6-9 mg in standard ohm range and 3mg in subohm , simply because the amount of vapor being produced is greater. 6 mg is about all I can handle subohm ,12mg would be harsh and make me sick. I couldn't imagine 18mg subohm (by subohm I mean .6 or below). Typically most subohm tanks have larger airflow to help keep the coils cool which also means subohm tanks also require a harder pull to keep the air moving adequately to keep the wick from burning especially since you are vaping at a higher wattage. And yes the sub tanks do go through e-liquid faster . I can easily go through 30 ml in a day of heavy vaping . My subohm tanks are an "and" device, not my primary. As my primary I'm either using a Kayfun at 1-1.5 ohm build @13-15W or my REO with a similar build in it as well. I also have an E-grip with the RBA and I'm using a 2.2 ohm build in it right now @10W but my secondary devices like the Kanger subtank mini I vape it with .5ohm @ 24 W and my Zephyrus is a .3ohm and i run it @ 45W . If you are considering purchasing a regulated device with a built in battery and wanting to test the waters of subohm I would recommend the Istick 50W it can fire down to .3 I believe but it has a 4400mah battery which means you can go for 2-3 days per charge on a standard ohm atomizer or even longer if you don't chain vape like I do . So you could continue to vape what you are used to and could also have a subohm tank to play around with to see if you like it .But I highly recommend you step down the nic level if you do .On a side note also seek out e-liquids with a higher VG ratio(60-80%) if you plan to subohm. High PG liquids are too thin and your tank will be prone to leak.

 

[Mad_Squirrell]

I noticed in your last post you mentioned temp control .YOU MUST use the right coil heads in temp control .Standard coils will not work with TC ,and in reverse don't use TC coils in standard mode on your device bad things can happen especially in this scenario because TC coils are at a much lower resistance than standard coils typically they are around 0.1ohm. In temp control you can set your power levels after setting your desired temp and the device if it is set up properly will not exceed the temp you set the device at so theoretically if you set it up for 100W but you have the Temp set at 250 degrees it will get to that temperature very fast but would reduce the power to maintain that temp. So you would not be vaping at 100W continuously. If your device is set up correctly you should be able to take long pulls and never burn your wick even if the wick runs dry .

 

[Plumes.91]

yes i've read up on tc thoroughly. it apparently relies on the coil resistance to make it seem like it is controlling the temperature. there is actually NO thermometer reading the temp of your coil in tc devices. i find that interesting, and i wonder if "true" temp control will ever hit the market. i am well brushed-up on the new vaping fads since i last left ECF and the vape world.

I spent 4 days on the PC going through most of the popular devices that came out since my hiatus, and the istick40 and the new istick50 (pro) were both on my list of top choices for a while. I wound-up with the Evic Mini and the Kanger Subox Mini. I love the look of my new Evic VTC mini's screen and the size is absolutely amazing for my small hands. I wanted to try the subtank and i found the kit for cheap, so I figured I might as well get the subox kit. I really am enjoying both devices at 12.5W w/ 12mg juice. I'm finding that they both have great battery life, and I got the best of both colors that i wanted- a black evic mini, and white subox!

I am VERY well versed in the world of vaping. if you had been here a year ago, i was in every SINGLE thread. I just cannot believe how fast this world has changed... and I'm not even completely sure I LIKE the change... Before I left, there was a clear division between those of us sub-ohming or using higher-wattages, and those of us using regulated devices that went to 8-15 watts. I thought my 1ohm coil on a mech mod w/max battery charge was great at 30 watts... Now it's like, even the NEW vapers must learn what low resistance and high wattage and airflow will do. AND you have to change your nicotine levels? I dont love it, thts 4 sure... and i was very confused when i realized MOST juice vendors had changed from 6 to 24mg, to 3 to 16mg... Yikes.

But i suppose things were bound to change, with the trend churning toward higher wattage/amperage allowances. i'm definitely not going to be in the new members forum from 8am to 2am helping new vapers learn how to subohm and what wattages to use depending entirely on the atomizer they have screwed into their mod, and their mod's allowances. ugh. things have quadrupled in complexity... I got all of it, 100%, sure, but am i really going to WANT to spend the same amount of time i used-to spend, helping new vapers, when there are now 3, 4, 5 NEW variables to take into consideration? ugh.

i'm very curious to see how the new members area questions have changed... and i hope that we have no tripled the amount of new vapers turning back to cigarettes because they tried a .5ohm coil at 60 watts with an old fashioned RDA on-top and blew their freakin' head off. I will have to spend more time helping new vapers and see what questions they are asking these days... As always, thanks, &, ENJOY YOUR VAPING JOURNEY!

 

[Electrician613]

What's happening plumes? I started vaping close to a year ago. My first decent mod after several pens styles was a DOVPO GX200 w/ nautilus on top.
From everything I read about it, it was a decent set up. I took the coils they gave me, found a tasty juice and started vaping. I didn't really understand the technical side of it which is bad since I'm a 14 year electrician but I just never took the time to do the research. I found a good wattage that I liked (25 watts) which didn't burn my throat, didn't run through juice or coils like a madman and it was very tasty. Finally upgraded to a Istick 100w running a Aspire Nautilus. Recently within the last 2 weeks I decided to figure out what all this high wattage vaping about. Ended up getting a U WELL CROWN tank. Got home and topped it off with juice that I usually vape and a brand new coil. 70/30, 6mg majestic melon from unicornicopia. Delicious btw. Ran that bad Unit up to 80 watts and held on expecting to be coughing up blood. It was fantastic! No real heat just warm delicious vapor but that little bit of extra heat made the taste night and day for me. I know didn't answer any of your techy questions but just IMPO high wattage vaping is where it's at. What ever wattage you find to be the best for you, rock that ....!
Vape on my friends!

 

[rolf]

hey everyone, plumes.91 here, back to my old tricks here on ecg

i'm new to these super low ohm, super high wattage devices & I could definitely use some help... I mean, I have plenty of experience vaping 1ohm builds, even 0.5 to 1.0 ohm builds... but, 40, 75, 100 watts?? I'm not sure I thoroughly understand this whole high wattage - sub ohm vaping thing.

i understand that tanks have come a long way, and, airflow/wicking has changed, to allow for high wattage vaping with sub ohm coils, right? I personally like a cooler vape. 5 watts w/18mg juice is fine w/ me... what I'm not understanding is how ya'll could POSSIBLY be vaping at 40, 80, 100 watts PERIOD?

Question Number One: HOW is that NOT burning the CRAP out of your wick material?
Question Number Two: HOW are you not getting a sore throat? 18mg @ 5 watts kicks my throat plenty!!
Question Number Three: Do I have to lower my Nic level to vape low ohm, high watt?
Question Number Four: Are today's tanks better equipped to handle low ohms/high wattage?

I guess I'm just not understanding how you would/could vape sub ohm at high wattage. I am currently thinking about buying a 100W mechanical box mod. Now, at 20, 30, 40 watts, and even at 100 watts, what is the experience even LIKE? Is it harsh? Is it purely for clouds/aesthetics, not for pleasure? I don't get it.

hi plumes !
I don't get it either..i found a tank I realy like the aromamizer rdta. many comments in that thread like will it go to
100 watts ? or chainvaping at 100 watts all day ! the atty is fine for duel coils and even build for it . and than Clapton coils ... just not for me ! I fine tuned it w single coil to give me a very nice vape and flavor at 20 watts .
so far my favored coil builds are twisted 4 wire 34 g .2.5 mm . around 7 to 8 wraps . pure heaven for me.
they come out at 1.2 to 1.7 ohms . the battery live is also fantastic .
but I also see their opinions for pushing the envelop ! its funn . knowing ohms law I question the single 18650 single regulated mod ..or even duals.. at 100 watts brutalizing the batterys . less then .5 ohms scares me ..I know I am in the minority

 

[Plumes.91]

am i really going to WANT to spend the same amount of time i used-to spend, helping new vapers, when there are now 3, 4, 5 NEW variables to take into consideration? ugh.

i'm very curious to see how the new members area questions have changed... and i hope that we have not tripled the amount of new vapers turning back to cigarettes... because they tried a .5ohm coil at 60 watts with an OLD-fashioned RDA on-top, and blew their freakin' heads off. I will have to spend more time helping new vapers, and see what questions they're asking these days... As always, thanks, &, ENJOY THE VAPE JOURNEY!

idk... i just feel like the manufacturers have made vaping 50 times more complicated for those new to large battery vaping; Those wishing to switch from cig-alike, or ego type device, to PV, for the very 1st time. I used-to enjoy spending a solid 14 to 16 hour block of my life here on ECF, replying to new member's, pouring in, asking about ohm's law, and how to find your perfect wattage, etcc.... Now, with all of these new subohm tanks, have the vendors both dumbed-down vaping, in-that, every1 buying their 1st high-wattage device, will stray away from rebuilding, and instead, buy new coil-heads each time they need a new coil? OR... Have they made vaping more complex for new PV users... effectively making the learning curve much steeper, by forcing new vapers to learn all about airflow, PG and VG percentages to prevent bad wicking with heavier VG juices, or flooding with lighter PG juices, the difference between direct to lung and mouth to lung inhalation, in addition to OHM'S-LAW and wattage/power vaping... YIKES!

I know that, my plan for coming back to vaping, was to STOP rebuilding so much, and rather, START buying disposable coil heads. However, they've made it so easy to rewire an RDA, and they've made so many BOTTOM COIL rebuildable atty TANKS... It's like... WHY would i ever WANT to turn to disposable coil heads, when I can rebuild so dern easily and not HAVE TO DRIP if i want to rebuild... I mean, shoot, when i LEFT vaping, it was either SS mesh tanks, or cotton RDAs... No in-between, really.. Unless you wanted to learn the K-FUN method... and those K-FUN tanks were pricey for me... NOW you can get a nice BCCRBT for $15 So I'm guessing I'll be sticking to rebuilding, screw it! haha.

Time will show me... Whether or not this whole paradigm-shift has made it more complex and complicated, or if the new vapers are having an easy time transitioning from cigalikes or ego batteries, to their very first PVs and mods... I'll continue to do my best to help.

 

[Plumes.91]

And as for Temp Control, I think I'll be leaving that to the likes of GrimmGreen and other advanced vapers whom are deeply embedded into the scene...
I am very happy with my way of vaping now (POWER!) haha.

& Now that I fully understand that you MUST lower your nicotine levels IF you want to use high wattages, i think i'm all-set to begin enjoying THAT as well. (high wattages) though, for now, I am seriously enjoying my brand new Evic VTC mini at 12.5 watts with my 12mg liquid. Seriously awesome vape!! O MY!

 

[jQuack]

Hey Plumes, it's great to hear this from an experienced vaper.

I've been vaping for only a few months. Got a Subtank mini kit and after using the OCC coils that came with started using the RBA. With the .5 ohm coils anything over 20 watts isn't as good to my taste as vaping from 15 to 20 ohms using 6 - 12mg juice. The flavor kind of disappears for me and tastes over cooked. Occasionally I'd feel like I was missing something and turn it up to 25 or 30 ohms only to ruin the tank with a burnt taste, dump the juice, clean it out and rewick. But even before it got that burnt taste the flavor wasn't there for me.

I'm still curious why others vape at higher wattage but don't want to go there again for now at least.

 

[mcclintock]

I saw a guy using a huge RDA with 14 vent holes and using 100 watts and actually figured out that he had more air flow per watt than I'm using at 13 watts and one vent hole. Or should I say he had more air flow CAPABILITY because just having those holes doesn't mean the air will flow, that's up to how you hit the thing. I'd have to keep reminding myself hit this thing hard or it will be very bad.

Likewise, some of the high power setups actually have more coil and wick per watt than an EVOD at 5 watts.

I've moved towards a sort of backwards method. I found out how much power works with my relatively restricted airflow using a somewhat oversized coil. Then I kept reducing the coil until it reduced the optimum power a half watt or so. Actually, when I first started reducing the coil size the power setting increased, as the coil was large enough to make the vape too hot through direct air heating. The sweet spot is now much more defined than it was with any of the too-big coils. When you can't seem to find the right power setting you know something's wrong. Also, as I've gotton more used to an open airflow I have increased the hole size while sucking more gently, to get about the same amount of air but with only just enough resistance to get some feedback.

 

[DontPokeTheBear]

clouds are way more enjoyable than intense amounts of nicotine and i found the huge vapor production to be more helpful with quitting analogs than nicotine ever has

 

[evan le'garde]

I like a cool vape too. Can't tolerate hot vapour. I build a quad coil assembly in a Zephyrus RTA. 6 wraps per coil, 2.5 mm inner diameter, with a combined ohm'age of 0.15. And i only set the power to 43.5 watts. It's a cool vape. The only reason i'd go higher, if i ever wanted to, like upwards of 50w would be to increase the ramp up time but i just can't draw quick enough for that. The nicotine content is about 9mg, i was using 4.5mg but it wasn't working for me.

I alternate between that setup on a box mod and a low powered tube mod with a Kayfun v4. Obviously the Kayfun is used for mouth to lung and i run it at about 5v with a 2.1 ohm coil, 9 wraps of 29g kanthal - 2.5mm id. Point is i'll use 24mg nicotine juice with that.

 

[herb]

Hey Plumes, it's great to hear this from an experienced vaper.

. The flavor kind of disappears for me and tastes over cooked. Occasionally I'd feel like I was missing something and turn it up to 25 or 30 watts only to ruin the tank with a burnt taste, dump the juice, clean it out and rewick. But even before it got that burnt taste the flavor wasn't there for me.

I'm still curious why others vape at higher wattage but don't want to go there again for now at least.

I know what you mean and there are threads all over ECF dedicated to vapors who love lower wattage vaping with higher ohm coils.

Why do people vape high wattage , because they can lol , many new vapors don't have a clue that any other type of vaping even exist's because they started when the sub tank craze was in full bloom and think that is what everyone starts with .

You may not realize this but the people who vape sub ohm are still, to this day, in the minority when you look at the big picture . Most vape lower wattage and do not sub ohm , they just are not nearly as vocal as the sub ohm crowd is .

If you were to pick apart this forum most of the talk would be about regular vaping and not sub ohm , even Phil Busardo does not prefer sub ohm vaping so do not think it's a must because everyones doing it because nothing could be further from the truth.

You would be blown away by the flavor an RDA like a single coil Magma at 15 watts with a 1.8 ohm coil provides , it is the most stellar vape i have experienced if your into ultimate flavor , truly out of this world .

Most people use sub ohm coils (kills the flavor imo) and much higher wattage with RDA's , this is not necessary at all but people think it is.