how do you go about what wattage or voltage setting you prefer?

[Sutterrr]

I've been thinking about getting a vv/vw box mod as my next mod, because I want to get that consistent hit vs the voltage drop that comes with mech mods as the battery dies. My concern is, how many watts would I really need?

Seeing as how I've never used one I don't know what my personal preference is yet, so how do I go about choosing one? I've read great things about the new dna 40s and I've tried them out and they're amazing, but I've also used a buddy's ipv3 at around 45-50w with a .6 ohm build and it hit wonderfully.


What do you guys suggest?

 

[Sutterrr]

I like dripping so I would most likely continue using an RDA between 0.25ohms and 0.8ohms

 

[MrPlink]

Do you know what ohms law is?
Or do you just wrap a coil and cross your fingers?

I jumped over from mechs myself, so they are still my reference point.

I almost never build under .6ohms. So figuring a fresh cell put me near 30w with a mech that also helped me figure how much wattage I would probably want.

I do crank to 50w here and there on an ipv2 but it's rare.

The Dna40 is all about temp control. If you aren't interested in that you can get comparable (if not superior) mods for less money

 

[dc99]

My normal mod is a IPV2. After I bought enough box mods to open a store I figured out that I rarely go past 30w. This is how I set them up, start at the bottom and turn it up till you like it. Your done. Ive said this many times. Those numbers on the display mean absolutely nothing

 

[Buzzy]

I think it is largely a matter of personal preference. What tastes and feels right to you? At higher wattages, I find that taste takes a back seat to throat hit and warmth. At lower wattages, throat hit and warmth increase, but for me, taste isn't quite as clean. Also, if the wattage is too high, then there is increased risk of getting a little bit to a lot of burned taste. With a variable voltage or wattage device, you really just have to play around with it until you find the setting that gives you what is satisfying to you. But with a vv/vw device, you have the control to select what you want.
The wicking and the resistance of the clearomizer, rba/rda, or cartomizer are also important factors that may cause you to choose different settings for different clearos, rebuildables, or cartos.
A vv/vw device increases your options, but you still have to experiment a little to find what you yourself consider agreeable to you.

Personally, I'm not a cloud-chaser. But it is true that a vv/vw device will allow you to pursue that as well.

 

[Buzzy]

Ooops, I meant that at lower wattages, throat hit and warmth decrease, but the taste is cleaner.

 

[roxynoodle]

I start with Ohm's Law, and how it would vape on a mech and dial it in from there.

P = vsquared/r

So a 1.2 ohm build would be P = 4.2 sq/1.2 = 14.7W

 

[Papa Lazarou]

A common misunderstanding is that watts = temperature. It's possible to get an unpleasantly hot vape from 10 watts or a cool vape from 30 watts. It all depends on the atomiser and how it's set up.

I guess the main thing is what will you be using on it? If it's rebuildable then if you like to make large coils using thick wire to make clouds then these will need more power to drive them than a clearomizer.

 

[Woofer]

Do you know what ohms law is?
Or do you just wrap a coil and cross your fingers?

I jumped over from mechs myself, so they are still my reference point.

I almost never build under .6ohms. So figuring a fresh cell put me near 30w with a mech that also helped me figure how much wattage I would probably want.

I do crank to 50w here and there on an ipv2 but it's rare.

The Dna40 is all about temp control. If you aren't interested in that you can get comparable (if not superior) mods for less money

Certainly many of us are excited about DNA 40 temperature limiting. But to say the DNA 40 is all about temperate limiting is in my opinion unfair and incorrect, turn off temperature limiting and you still have the most advance power control board available today. There is nothing comparable.

 

[Sutterrr]

Do you know what ohms law is?
Or do you just wrap a coil and cross your fingers?

At .25 ohms I'm running at ~16 amps, which is fine since my battery can run up to 20A and is 35A pulse

 

[alicewonderland]

from running a VW device for a while, ive learned that there is alot into going what kind of hit you are, its not just the mod. The resistance of the coil you build, the power you put into it (how fast it heats up etc.) and the air flow through your atomizers/how fast or long of a drag you take all come into account. The best thing to do is get a VW/VV device with a lot of range such as a dna40 or so, where you can go to subohm levels or higher levels and experiment more. Rather than building a coil for the mech youre using, VW/VV seems to me anyways, as more of slap any coil on that sucker then mess around with the settings.

 

[Spirometry]

At .25 ohms I'm running at ~16 amps, which is fine since my battery can run up to 20A and is 35A pulse

It's also 70 watts, so you should scratch the DNA 40 off your list. The DNA can fire the .25 coil, it just won't be as hot.

 

[vjdossey]

Following... lots of good info in this thread

 

[mstephens0500]

Question. I've never used an APV, and always use a mech mod. If I have a dual coil build, at .8 ohms, would the wattage need to be higher or lower than what it would be set at with a .15 build, to achieve a similar hit. The lower the resistance, the higher the wattage? And vice versa? I like the iPV3 and am thinking about buying one, but when would 100+ watts be necessary? What king of build requires high wattage, without a burnt taste? Would love to see some responses to this, it would really clear up a lot of questions I have about these APVs.

 

[alicewonderland]

ohm's law,

Volts/Ohms = Current

to receive the same current, as ohms increase, voltage must increase. if ohms decreases, voltage must decrease to get the same current.

yes, with a 0.8 build you would need to up the voltage to get the same hit as a 0.15 build.

if youre running a 0.15ohm at 3.7v = youre pumping 91.27 watts of power into that thing (24.67amps)

if you want to get the same current through a 0.8ohm coil, youd need to pump 8.54v into that badboy (10.69) amps


equivalent at 0.5
0.5ohm = 6.76v (13.5 amps)


useful calculator for quick calculations. http://vapecalc.com/


so in relation to youre question, it looks like you're already almost using the 100watts into a 0.15 build with a 3.7 mech mod. the key is the current and not the resistance though, you can build equally hard hitting coils at higher resistance that dont require so much wattage.

 

[yzer]

Vaping wattage depends on how you like to vape and how you like your vapor. I don't want to bother with dripping or winding coils. A cartotank that I refill once a day is fine for me. Using a 2.0Ω single coil and 6.5 to 7.5W produces plenty of vapor for me at less than 2.0 amps. By "plenty of vapor" I mean a bigger amount of exhaled vapor than the amount of smoke I used to exhale.

 

[vjdossey]

Carto tank is the way to go if ya want fiddle free satifying vape but of course that is just my opinion... I love my 2 ohm cartos...

 

[alicewonderland]

Carto tank is the way to go if ya want fiddle free satifying vape but of course that is just my opinion... I love my 2 ohm cartos...

i didnt know people use cartos anymore, they have new clearomizers that dont use cartos anymore. you just replace the coil rather than replacing a whole cartomizer.

 

[vjdossey]

Lol, I know this... I use nautilus and vape beyond silo lite tanks too and love them. I own soooooooo many clearomizers... but never found one I loved... tried carto tanks and stuck with them exclusively for a year... (and they lasted as long as a lot of replaceable coils) til the nautilus bvc's came out... watched grimm greens nautilus mini video and within minutes ordered a mini nautilus... he had me when he said it vaped like a carto, but better... and he said it compared to a kayfun which I still gotta try my hand at...

i didnt know people use cartos anymore, they have new clearomizers that dont use cartos anymore. you just replace the coil rather than replacing a whole cartomizer.

 

[BeerGolfClouds]

Question. I've never used an APV, and always use a mech mod. If I have a dual coil build, at .8 ohms, would the wattage need to be higher or lower than what it would be set at with a .15 build, to achieve a similar hit. The lower the resistance, the higher the wattage? And vice versa? I like the iPV3 and am thinking about buying one, but when would 100+ watts be necessary? What king of build requires high wattage, without a burnt taste? Would love to see some responses to this, it would really clear up a lot of questions I have about these APVs.

I've got a great build at the moment that will handle just about whatever I throw at it with my iPV3, see my sig below for details. Wicking with rayon and thinning out the tails that touch the deck makes it wick quickly, and the setup I'm using ensures adequate airflow to keep up, allowing me to vape with no burnt or dry hits. Basically I can run it from ~60 watts up to ~114 watts depending upon what temperature vape I'm looking for and how long I want my pulls to be. At the bottom end, it's cooler and I can take long, deep lung inhales; at the top end it's nice and warm and a one-second tug gets it done.