Im fairly new to the vaping world, started out on the mvp with the nautilis mini. Moved on to the penny mod with a .11ohm build, and recently got the sigelei 150w built at .11ohm. And I was wondering how you know what ohm to build at and what watts to vape it at. For instance, i got the Joytech Delta II sub-ohm tank. Im gonna put it on my sigelei. It says its a .5 ohm tank, and can vape between 20-45watts. Why does it need to be vaped at that wattage? And what would happen if you vaped below that wattage or over that wattage?
How do you know what coil build to do? and The amount of watts to vape at with that build?
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Hello and welcome to the forum RichardP. Glad to have you here!
First, a few questions for you.
1. Do you have an ohm reader or a DMM?
2. What battery are you using with your Penny mech mod (brand/mAh/amp rating)?
3. What battery are you using with your Sigeiei 150w box mod (brand/mAh/amp rating)?
3. Have you read up on battery safety, ohms law, amp draw?
First, a few questions for you.
1. Do you have an ohm reader or a DMM?
2. What battery are you using with your Penny mech mod (brand/mAh/amp rating)?
3. What battery are you using with your Sigeiei 150w box mod (brand/mAh/amp rating)?
3. Have you read up on battery safety, ohms law, amp draw?
Hoooo boy...be careful working with coil builds that low of an ohm ratimg without understanding THOROUGHLY ohms law...The Sigelei 150 is a powerful vaping device (my personal hogh wattage fave) and that kinda power can backfire, literally, in your face if you dont know what youre doing. Read up thoroughly on Ohms Law and youll understand why that resistance leads to vaping at that wattage...otherwise be careful and welcome to ECF!
those ranges are probably the best at ranges for that ohm setting.... lower and it will be lethargic, over and it will burn everything to a crisp...
and BTW do you know and understand ohms law?? with the Sig 150, there is no need to build a .11 coil....
and BTW do you know and understand ohms law?? with the Sig 150, there is no need to build a .11 coil....
Honest answer to the original question: You know what builds to make based on knowledge, experience, your equipment's capabilities and trial/error. And the same goes for the wattage you run those builds at.
Alternatively, you tell the kind, knowledgeable folks here at ECF what equipment you have and the vape experience you desire, and you'll get many wonderful responses!*
*and the occasional downright dangerous response lol
Alternatively, you tell the kind, knowledgeable folks here at ECF what equipment you have and the vape experience you desire, and you'll get many wonderful responses!*
*and the occasional downright dangerous response lol
Sigelei has stated that in order to take advantage of the full 150 watts that you need to build at a .15 ohms but I'm here to tell you 150 watts is a hot vape and battery life is very minimal at those ranges. As for the Delta II those are suggested ranges for the stock coil-heads from the manufacturer will it function at higher power yes. Vaping with Twisted 420 did a review on it and was vaping it at 70 watts and claims that it had no dry hits or burned hits but it will definitely heat up your tank. I think it also has something to do with extreme temperatures and the rubber insulators they use at the 510 pin/air inlet on the bottom of the coil.
1) No but my cousin has one and ive been building with him.
2) im using an Efest 2500 35A battery.
3)I got 4 red Efest 2000 batteries, then found out they are crap, so i ordered 4 Efest 2500 35A batteries.
4) My cousin has explained most of it to me.
2) im using an Efest 2500 35A battery.
3)I got 4 red Efest 2000 batteries, then found out they are crap, so i ordered 4 Efest 2500 35A batteries.
4) My cousin has explained most of it to me.
Actually those efest batteries are darned misleading, theyre not actually rated for 35amps...lotsa info.in the battery section of the forums...General consensus is Samsung 25r's are the safest batteries around until Sony VTC5's are back, along with the LG HE2. But in general stay away from efest
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You still need any ohm reader. Things change as you vape and rewick your coils.
The battery you have is actually rated 20A not 35A as printed on the wrapper. 20A is the CDR (continuous discharge rating) and 35A is the pulse discharge rating. Its a good battery, but not a 35A battery. The CDR (not pulse) is what you need to be looking for.
Now as far as batteries for your 150 watt mod. If you are going to stay below 100w than a pair of 20w batteries is fine. However if you are going to be vaping 100+watts you need a pair of 30A batteries. Sigelei actually recommends 30A batteries.
You also need to marry your batteries for life. Use them together, charge them together, don't separate them.
Here's a couple of blogs you should read by Baditude (one of our battery/safety experts).
Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
Building below .2 is pointless, no noticeable difference and it's just dangerous
1: If you've got the sigelei 150w then you no longer need to use 0.11 ohm coils to get 150 watts; the sig150 goes up to 8.2 volts, so 0.4 ohms is good enough for 150 watts. (ohms = volts x volts / watts)
2: If you run the tank above 45 watts, the insulator might get too hot. Maybe they'll melt and cause a short; maybe they will just slowly decompose, and give off toxic fumes that give you a throat hit and you never notice
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