Hi, sorry if this has been gone over before ... for smaller tube mods, like a 14500, where conventional switches are too big, what would be a good way to mount a tact switch up against the curved inner surface? Thanks in advance.
I mount mine to a PCB .WIth the curve the pcb sits flat at two ends where i mount it with epoxy. I try to also shim it with something so no matter what it cant be pushed in.
I use switches mounted on board. If you want to use a switch separately and precisely mounted, use a hot glue gun. Carefully, a few layers, wait until every layer gets cool enough.
If you have not a glue gun, buy a 5-minutes epoxy or acriylic compound. You will need some training to work with them. Use a very small pieces of a tissue to hold the resin in place.
I drill and tap the hole and thread the pushbutton switch in. Tact switches are rated too low to handle the load unless you use a mosfet
I also grind down the length of the plunger
I drill and tap the hole and thread the pushbutton switch in. Tact switches are rated too low to handle the load unless you use a mosfet
I also grind down the length of the plunger
You're using the C&K switch, right? Since I like copper and you're the copper mod king I've copied you a lot but I can't thread that switch inside a piece of 1/2" I.D. copper. I bent the pins and installed it through a tight hole to see if it would work and it was pretty tough but doable, so I took it back out soldered the wires and just used the nut. I don't doubt at all that you did it, would it be to much to ask...how you did it?
I drill and tap the hole and thread the pushbutton switch in. Tact switches are rated too low to handle the load unless you use a mosfet
I also grind down the length of the plunger
The movable part that you depress which slides into the threaded barrel.
IMO it looks a lot better with a short stub protruding rather than a long one.
You're using the C&K switch, right? Since I like copper and you're the copper mod king I've copied you a lot but I can't thread that switch inside a piece of 1/2" I.D. copper. I bent the pins and installed it through a tight hole to see if it would work and it was pretty tough but doable, so I took it back out soldered the wires and just used the nut. I don't doubt at all that you did it, would it be to much to ask...how you did it?
Robert, the CK PB body would fit in a 1/2" tube but with the length of the threaded barrel it would be impossible to angle it in to thread. Yes you would have to use a slightly bigger hole and use the nut. - 8552MZQE2 has a shorter body length (0.315) than the 8551MZQE2 (0.427). I was using it in a 3/4" tube.
The movable part that you depress which slides into the threaded barrel.
IMO it looks a lot better with a short stub protruding rather than a long one.
I used part of a tube of a syringe that fit just inside my tube. Put all of my electronics into the syringe, used hot glue to secure it, then just slide it in and maybe a little glue on the inside of your tube to hold it in place. Very easy to do!
Robert, the CK PB body would fit in a 1/2" tube but with the length of the threaded barrel it would be impossible to angle it in to thread. Yes you would have to use a slightly bigger hole and use the nut. - 8552MZQE2 has a shorter body length (0.315) than the 8551MZQE2 (0.427). I was using it in a 3/4" tube.
Thanks for the part number: 8552MZQE2 ... I had not found a switch that small so thats why I thought I would have to go tact switch and some electronics ... looks like it would be real tight but workable ... ... umm ... what is this C&K switch you guys are talking about? (excuse my ignorance)
Edit: Sorry, I get it, those swiches are made by C&K components.
Robert, the CK PB body would fit in a 1/2" tube but with the length of the threaded barrel it would be impossible to angle it in to thread. Yes you would have to use a slightly bigger hole and use the nut. - 8552MZQE2 has a shorter body length (0.315) than the 8551MZQE2 (0.427). I was using it in a 3/4" tube.
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