How does wattage affect vaping?
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Not for me, no. A 50w mod is a waste of about 20 watts.
Now, a double battery mod makes sense for many people, but that's different.
Actually, I would buy a 2 x 18650 30w mod, but nobody is going to make that.
I reckon, if you get extra watts "for free", why not. If you want the capability, why not!
(off shopping for double 18650 mod...
)
To me vape really started to shine when I got my mod with the Nautilus on it. The difference is like cooking in a microwave or using an oven where you can adjust the temp to get it cooked the way you want it to taste. As to the power, if you're only using 20 watts to power your tank, it will be the same on both mods. With a 50 w you have more room to grow should you decide to go really low ohm coils. I run a .5 ohm usually at 30 watts and I have a 50 watt and a 150 watt mod to use so I'm not using "all" the power available (headroom). With some subtanks you might want more than 50 watts, so check into which brand you might want BEFORE buying a new mod. (Kanger Subtank Mini/Aspire Triton, Smok..etc...)
It depends on what you enjoy. For some of us, 15 watts is more than enough power. Others want 200. If you're just starting out, you can get a fairly high powered device for relatively cheap. If you stay at low wattage, no harm done.
But if you begin with a low watt device, then need more, it would mean another purchase. You'll know your vape when you find it, and it will surely be a happy day for you.
Good luck, and don't be afraid to ask questions.
Thanks for the reply. What do you mean, need more? What exactly would extra wattage bring?
More heat. So the flavor and amount of vaper produced are different from vaping at lower wattages. There is no Right or Wrong way to vape.
I prefer lower wattage (longer battery life, less juice consumption, and flavor and heat that is perfect for MY tastes). But at the next turn is a guy (or girl) who wants it cranked up high, blowing out huge clouds of vapor (far exceeding the smoke we exhaled). Regardless, it's keeping them from smoking, just like my lower wattage is doing for me.
At THAT, after all, is the ultimate goal for each of us. Not smoking. HOW we do it is absolutely irrelevant.
With the viable options out there today, it's almost a guarantee that anyone CAN find their vape, if they take the time and energy to find it. That was not always the case, so it's a great time to begin vaping (today). And it's ALWAYS a great day to quit smoking, however that may be.
watts is a result of voltage and resistance, if you keep the resistance the same and vary the voltage the wattage changes
for example, if you drive on a flat hiway ( same resistance)and give it more gas ( volts) your speed increases ( watts).
If you drive up a big hill ( higher resistance) at the same gas setting ( volts) you go up the hill slower than you did on the flat hiway. to keep the speed the same going up the hill you need to give it more gas...
so in effect, if you want to go up the hill fast you need something that can do it... more watts (power)
for example, if you drive on a flat hiway ( same resistance)and give it more gas ( volts) your speed increases ( watts).
If you drive up a big hill ( higher resistance) at the same gas setting ( volts) you go up the hill slower than you did on the flat hiway. to keep the speed the same going up the hill you need to give it more gas...
so in effect, if you want to go up the hill fast you need something that can do it... more watts (power)
Even with a variable voltage unit, ending work, the watts, is still the same, bump up voltage to increase the wattage output. Standard Ego @3.7v with a 1.5ohm coil, using the formula V x V / R would give you 3.7 x 3.7 / 1.5 = 9.13 watts. An Ego Twist which ranges from 3.2 to 4.6 or 4.8 volts output, adjusting that dial at the bottom, increased voltage output to dial in what flavor and vapor you are wanting, in the end increased the wattage, example, set the ego twist to 4.2volts, we get this 4.2 x 4.2 / 1.5 = 11.76 watts. With variable wattage taking the major role in mod design, the micro processor in the mod does all this math for you, set to 10 watts, the mod read the resistance of your coil, and automatically adjusts the voltage for you, making it plug and play.
Doesn't matter the resistance of the coil, if the mod can give you say 15watts on a 3ohm coil up to its maximum voltage output it will just as it can do on a 1.5ohm coil. A lot of these newer VW mods do adjustments in 0.1 watt increments which really allows super fine tuning on vapor output, where variable voltage gets in the general ball park, VW allows hitting the sweet spot dead on.
A good analogy I generally use -
VV only mod = Stock Chevy Compact, Resistance = the road you are driving, take a trip from Southern Los Angeles, heading up to Bakersfield, as you climb hills resistance increases, going down hill resistance decreases, so going up hill, you yourself have to step on the gas more to maintain speed (wattage), go down hill you have to let off the gas so you do not go over the speed limit.
VW Mod = Same Model Chevy Compact with the upgraded luxury package with cruise control, set the speed limit you want into the cruise control (wattage), take the same trip, the computer adds more or decreases the throttle as you go up and down hills on the road
In regards to should you get a 50watt mod over a 30watt mod is all dependent upon you. 1) Larger more powerful mod say iStick50w over an iStick30w, the iStick50w will come with a 4400mah battery pack or so over the 30watts only 2600mah battery pack, more mah, longer time between charges, even if you are running only 25watts max all day, the 50watt will last longer than the 30watt on its charge. 2) The 50watt will give you more room to expand with in the future, say getting into drippers and lower ohms, that extra 20watts could be the difference between meh its good and works, to OMG vaping taste smexiness. 3) The 50watt will be rated higher in its amp limit of what it can handle over the 30watt, which is an extra margin of safety between a pocket fire just getting things toasty before you realize it, to that pocket fire literally being a fire and a trip to the ER.
hth
Doesn't matter the resistance of the coil, if the mod can give you say 15watts on a 3ohm coil up to its maximum voltage output it will just as it can do on a 1.5ohm coil. A lot of these newer VW mods do adjustments in 0.1 watt increments which really allows super fine tuning on vapor output, where variable voltage gets in the general ball park, VW allows hitting the sweet spot dead on.
A good analogy I generally use -
VV only mod = Stock Chevy Compact, Resistance = the road you are driving, take a trip from Southern Los Angeles, heading up to Bakersfield, as you climb hills resistance increases, going down hill resistance decreases, so going up hill, you yourself have to step on the gas more to maintain speed (wattage), go down hill you have to let off the gas so you do not go over the speed limit.
VW Mod = Same Model Chevy Compact with the upgraded luxury package with cruise control, set the speed limit you want into the cruise control (wattage), take the same trip, the computer adds more or decreases the throttle as you go up and down hills on the road
In regards to should you get a 50watt mod over a 30watt mod is all dependent upon you. 1) Larger more powerful mod say iStick50w over an iStick30w, the iStick50w will come with a 4400mah battery pack or so over the 30watts only 2600mah battery pack, more mah, longer time between charges, even if you are running only 25watts max all day, the 50watt will last longer than the 30watt on its charge. 2) The 50watt will give you more room to expand with in the future, say getting into drippers and lower ohms, that extra 20watts could be the difference between meh its good and works, to OMG vaping taste smexiness. 3) The 50watt will be rated higher in its amp limit of what it can handle over the 30watt, which is an extra margin of safety between a pocket fire just getting things toasty before you realize it, to that pocket fire literally being a fire and a trip to the ER.
hth
In general, watts are a measure of applied power to the coil. More watts means more power on the coil. All other things being equal, this means the coil will make more vapor per time the fire button is pressed. But all other things are not equal, there are limits. How fast your wick can bring juice to the coil makes a difference, as does the amount of airflow through the tank; and there are other, more technical considerations. In short, the mod (battery) power must be matched to the power requirement of the atomizer. For a Nautilus, a 30 watt machine is plenty, a Nauti shines at 10-15 watts. A Kanger Subtank with a plus ohm coil will be perfectly happy at 30 watts, but put a .5 ohm coil in it and a 30 will have to give everything it has to make it work well. For deep subohm, like .2 ohms, 50-60 watts is pretty much the bare minimum. I realize that doesn't tell you a lot, so sorry. In general, for a new vaper looking to upgrade, more power up to, oh, say 60 watts is a good thing. Not because you'll need it, necessarily, but because it gives you more room to maneuver and test things to find the vape you like best. But anything beyond 60 watts is probably going to be wasted unless you already know you need that much. Once you have the power, you'll still have to look around for an atomizer-- tank, dripper, whatever-- that uses it and gives you the vape you want. For new vapers looking to move up, I recommend the iStick 30 or 50, whichever the budget will support. That's plenty of power for most purposes and they'll serve as a good backup if, in the future, you decide to move on to more specialized or better quality gear. Solid alternatives to these two mods come from Innokin. They're a few dollars more than the iSticks, but I think they're worth it for the quality. These are the MVP 3.0 at 30 watts, the MVP 3.0 Pro at 60 watts, and the CoolFire4 at 40 watts. All are excellent pieces of equipment, but they have different sizes and weights and battery life so there's some selection. Another consideration is Temp Control which, I believe, is the coming thing. If you're in the market for a medium power mod, you should at least look at one with TC. These, at the moment, are pretty much limited to the EVIC VT, a nice 60 watt machine that comes with a color matched tank capable of +ohm, subohm or TC vaping. Just released (and therefore no real feedback on it) is the iStick 40TC. That one does not come bundled with a tank, so you'd have to buy one separately. Better quality (and more money) would be the Sigelei 75 TC. That's a bigger piece of gear, and uses a removable battery, so batteries, a charger and a tank would all be separate purchases.
Wattage (for us) is a Measure of Power.
It is defined as => (Voltage x Voltage) / Resistance = Wattage
So you can see that as either Battery Voltage changes or the Resistance of the Atomizer Coil changes, Wattage has to change so everything stays in Equilibrium.
When Wattage is increased, either by Increasing the Voltage that the Coil receives, or by Decreasing the Ohms (resistance) of a Atomizer Coil, the Hit you receive will have More Vapor, More Flavor and will be Warmer.
To a Point. If there is Too Many Watts, and the Wick can not provide enough e-Liquid to the Coil, then the Coil will get too Hot. And you e-Liquid will taste Burnt.
Having a Device where you can Adjust the Wattage gives you the Ability to Fine Tune the Hit you Get. Some Atomizers and e-Liquid flavors may taste better at one Wattage. Where another Atomizer or e-Liquid tastes Best at a Higher or Lower Wattage.
Think of a Variable Wattage (VW) device like you think of a Dimmer Switch on a Lamp. Sometimes you want More Light. So you turn the Dimmer Switch Up, More Wattage. Other Times you want Less Light. So you turn the Dimmer Switch Down, Less Wattage.
Last thing, Since Voltage and Resistance and Watts are tied to Each Other, setting the Wattage on a VW Device tells the device to Automatically change the Voltage for any given Coil Resistance.
So if you set the VW device to say 20 Watts with a 1.2 Ohm Coil, if you then switch to a .5 Ohm Coil, the VW Device sees this lower Resistance Coil and Automatically Lowers the Voltage to keep the Wattage at 20 Watts.
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