I painted all of mine with a particular gel nailpolish, hardens like a rock and unless dropped or severely scraped doesn't come off.. clear coat after that.
How have you modified your mod or tank?
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Yeah, my wife uses that UV gel stuff too lol.
I think it's working for you because your mods probably aren't bare zinc.
Zinc is a special case when it comes to painting - it doesn't behave like most other metals.
This is probably why the original black finish flaked off - there didn't appear to be any type of primer underneath it, and zinc needs a specific primer.
Nail polish would just flake off like any other paint.
it hasn't so far and i've been painting them since aug, their red paint as i said before stays on(only missing bits are from it being dropped at our garage), their black is crap though. i have removed the black and repainted. oh and the nailpolish isn't UV it's actually a chemical reaction for this one.
Do you think regular nail polish would work with automotive clearcoat on top? Do you think it's safe the ego aio?
I meant on zinc.
Your mods are almost certainly not made of zinc, and that's why the nail polish is sticking to them.
I think zinc is quite an unusual metal for mods. I wish I had known the subox mini was zinc, because I wouldn't have bought it.
Zinc is heavy and paint flakes off it, which makes it a rather poor choice for this application.
Your mods are almost certainly not made of zinc, and that's why the nail polish is sticking to them.
I think zinc is quite an unusual metal for mods. I wish I had known the subox mini was zinc, because I wouldn't have bought it.
Zinc is heavy and paint flakes off it, which makes it a rather poor choice for this application.
umm the mods are kbox minis... so they are zinc...
i wouldn't put it near the driptips, and make sure you don't cover/fill in any vents.
i wouldn't put it near the driptips, and make sure you don't cover/fill in any vents.
I just got some amazing nail polish for Xmas, so I was thinking of painting my boring, black ego aio. I just didn't know if I should be worried about how the heat interplays with the polish...?
umm the mods are kbox minis... so they are zinc...
i wouldn't put it near the driptips, and make sure you don't cover/fill in any vents.
Did you strip all the original paint off before you used the nail polish?
If not, then the nail polish is adhering to the original paint, not to the zinc beneath the paint.
Looks very cool by the way...
that pic happens to be the red one... so no i didn't take the paint off, the red like i said is durable paint. the other two were black and yes i took the paint off, because it was already partly gone. my hubby is a mechanic and would take the black ones to work.
Could the bare metal be the reason you had durability problems with the black, or did you also try the black over the original paint and still have durability problems?
Edit: I just realized I misread your post above - you were saying that the original black paint was crap, not black nail polish.
I guess I'm going to raid my wife's nail supplies then!
Edit: I just realized I misread your post above - you were saying that the original black paint was crap, not black nail polish.
I guess I'm going to raid my wife's nail supplies then!
the kanger black is the issue, not sure what they used for it, but like you said it doesn't stay on. so i removed it with a little bit of acetone and buffing, not even any sanding... then painted over the zinc with the chemical reactive nail polish, that stays on till i either remove it, or in my hubby's case it got dropped.
I removed my black paint with my fingernail and a guitar pick. It really is awful - it was bubbling up and flaking off wherever e liquid came into contact with it.
That happened a lot, because the tank was leaky too lol.
That happened a lot, because the tank was leaky too lol.
one of the originally black kboxes
they used the same crappy paint on their dripboxes 60w as well so i did the same treatment to the two of them
the 160w's seem to be holding up better.
they used the same crappy paint on their dripboxes 60w as well so i did the same treatment to the two of them
the 160w's seem to be holding up better.
just don't forget the clear coat, or the crackle is a flatter black until then. that was making it so the original red showed through and a copper polish mix and crackle.
On most RBAs I change out the capture/grub screws using 18/8 stainless replacements. The only true modifications I've made is enlarging juice inlet channels on old attys, the newer ones (made in the last two years) were adequate right out of the box. My favorite RDA is an old school Magma (original version), it has an external adjustable airflow control ring. I use it in the wide open position but it's difficult to set since it's held in place/position by screwing on the top cap. Every time you unscrew/remove the top cap the airflow control ring would need to be reset, a bit of a PITA. I superglued the control ring in place a few years ago and couldn't be happier with the result, it's stays in the desired position and I never have to fiddle with it.
I turned a ProTank airflow control down on the lathe so a Subtank rba sits flush on it, makes it easier rebuilding. I also turned a drip tip down so I can use it in the rba for testing flavors.
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