How I re-wick my T3's with cheesecloth (pictues)

[spider362]

had gurgling at 32 strands but no leak! will try to add more on my next. but this was quite easy!! it was just a pain in the behind picking the strands out ... anyone have any tips for easier removal of the strands?!

Also for those who have successfully done this, in your opinion was the cheesecloth better or silica?

In my experience when the silica is fairly new both silica and cotton are close to the same.

However, due to the fact you don't (usually) replace the silica wick during a dry burn I'm not sure just how effective the dry burn is.

But with cotton the wick is removed each time before a dry burn which allows the coil to get hot faster and more evenly. Also, I need to press the fire button for only a second or two and then only twice to get a perfect dry burn. I usually have a half dozen 15 strand x 4 inch wicks already made up so replacing the wick is a snap.

For me, the cotton wick is the best so far.

As for gurgling, when mine does that I keep the device horizontal both at rest and while vaping for a while and most times the gurgling goes away.
If it doesn't clear up after a few draws I then run a pipe cleaner down the air tube from the mouth piece end being careful not to push it in too far and jamming it into the coil and deforming it.

 

[yotasavg]

When I'm out walking around and I get some gurgling (it will happen more as the weather gets hotter) I usually just 'fling' the device with the mouthpiece down and juice flies out onto the ground. I do this a few times, then I blow visible drops of juice off the tip of the mouthpiece and continue vaping. Hasn't failed me once. Also, since I've done this successfully a few times now, I can definitely say that cotton is far superior. With silica sometimes I just wouldn't get a thick hit (not dry though), but with cotton it's extremely consistent for me.

 

[Odirom]

I have to say that I love the cotton wick idea. I have used cheese cloth and gauze. Both seem far superior to the silica. I need to be careful with the dry burn process, but that is ok. I would like to recount a few things to be aware of when you are doing this for the first time:

1) Be careful with that first dry burn. Turn your voltage down if you are variable. Also, pulse the first burn. a one count, let it go, a one count, let it go. I rebuilt the bottom of my T3 and had a factory build in my other one. I undid the factory build, pulled the silica out, left the wattage up (oops) and LEANED on that button. I went orange, red, white - POP...and that coil was spent. (I think my 32g six wind rebuild is actually better quality than the factory builds, but that is me being picky.) I rebuilt that one. Rewicked with cotton and have been happy since.

2) The second one I rewicked with cotton was a little different. I pulled out the silica but some of it stuck. So I tugged at it. It still stuck. So I got out my SOG multi-tool, grabbed onto it with superman-esque strength and yanked that sucker right out -- pulling the entire coil into a straight line. DOH!!! So be gentle with the coils. I found that if you have a bit of wick that won't loosen up, just do a short burn, one count, then let go and pluck at the wick. One count, pluck. You will eventually get it all out. And use tweezers, not a compound gripping device.

After I rebuilt both coils I found that when I clean the wicks out they can both take a dry burn like a champ. They clean up real nice. And while I bought a beeding needle to thread them, I find that a single strand of cloth or gauze threaded through and back out then the wicking material put in the hole and the whole thing pulled through (thus doubling your strands) is the best way to go.

This has been an inexpensive, simple, easy to control solution to the wicking issues. I like a fresh wick. Now I have one whenever I want!

Thank you again for the suggestion.

Happy Vaping!

 

[FinallyQuit]

I have to try this!!! Subscribing, and thanks SO much for the innovative idea!

 

[Smokachino]

Just wanted to chime back in also. I've been using this 15 strand 30/30 method for about a month now with great results! I would guess I rewick about once a week just to keep everything clean etc....Also, if you are worried about if the cheesecloth needs to be boiled etc...You could always get this all natural zero bleach cheese cloth. This is all I've used and it works great! 100% Natural Cotton Cheese Cloth - Bed Bath & Beyond

I got this cheesecloth from BB&B, too, but decided to boil it for 15 minutes first. When I took it out I was surprised to see that the water had a yellowish cast to it, so kinda glad I did. Then, the cheesecloth strands were all squiggly after it dried so I ironed the whole piece thinking straighter strands would be easier to work with. Used the 30/30 method to rewick my T3 and it works great! Just not sure what the yellow stuff in the water was, so boiling may not be a bad idea

 

[Steve11973]

I've been using cheesecloth for a while now with pretty good results. I use 17 doubled with a 34 flavor wick. No gurgles.

Today I used organic cotton ball and I can hardly believe the vape I'm getting.


✌

 

[yotasavg]

Today I used organic cotton ball and I can hardly believe the hits I'm getting.

Now that's what I've been saying!

 

[lynch]

Did my first T3 recoil and it works made it with cotton yarn. I was going to give up because the grommets were a pain to get back on, so I figured one last try and ordered the grommets from kidneypuncher and they go on very easy. A big thanks to all the posters for the tips on doing this


AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher

 

[yotasavg]

Did my first T3 recoil and it works made it with cotton yarn. I was going to give up because the grommets were a pain to get back on, so I figured one last try and ordered the grommets from kidneypuncher and they go on very easy. A big thanks to all the posters for the tips on doing this


AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher

How did the recoiling go? I'm not quite there yet but I feel ready to wrap some kanthal. What gauge did you use? How many wraps and what was the readout? I think your success has tipped me over to the rebuilding side, so thanks in advance!

 

[lynch]

How did the recoiling go? I'm not quite there yet but I feel ready to wrap some kanthal. What gauge did you use? How many wraps and what was the readout? I think your success has tipped me over to the rebuilding side, so thanks in advance!

I use 32, If I could do it anyone can. I'm half blind and my hands shake
6 wraps and getting 3ohms, next will do 5 wraps. now for the T2.

 

[yotasavg]

I use 32, If I could do it anyone can. I'm half blind and my hands shake
6 wraps and getting 3ohms, next will do 5 wraps. now for the T2.

Great thanks, my normal stores are out of 32 I guess I'll wait it out a bit but now I'm exited! I'd really like to be ringing in around 1.5ohms.

 

[spider362]

If you're going to use cotton thread and the fisher thread or beading hook to get the thread through the coil you can wrap your wire on a 4-40 or 3mm machine screw. I use a 2.5mm machine screw for mine. I like the metric screws because it winds the coil closer together than it will on a 4-40 screw. You can get 6 wraps on a metric screw in the same space you get 5 wraps on a 4-40 screw.

Also, if you run the wire through a lighter or torch flame and get it red hot it will remove the "spring" out of the wire and it will be easier to get the ends of the coil parallel without the coil having a tendency to unwind. Not required, but it does help.

 

[yotasavg]

Thanks for the tips!

 

[lynch]

If you're going to use cotton thread and the fisher thread or beading hook to get the thread through the coil you can wrap your wire on a 4-40 or 3mm machine screw. I use a 2.5mm machine screw for mine. I like the metric screws because it winds the coil closer together than it will on a 4-40 screw. You can get 6 wraps on a metric screw in the same space you get 5 wraps on a 4-40 screw.

Also, if you run the wire through a lighter or torch flame and get it red hot it will remove the "spring" out of the wire and it will be easier to get the ends of the coil parallel without the coil having a tendency to unwind. Not required, but it does help.

Thanks, I used one of those bar-b-q lighters on the kanthal. Have to get that screw to try.

 

[ktazz]

anybody noticed that whenever you put a new wick(cheesecloth) into the coil after a dryburn...theres a lingering burnt taste??? might have to do a whole new rebuild

 

[spider362]

Do you rinse the head after you do the dry burn?

There's a whole lot of burnt ash around the coil after the burn. You need to be sure to wash it out.

 

[ktazz]

Do you rinse the head after you do the dry burn?

There's a whole lot of burnt ash around the coil after the burn. You need to be sure to wash it out.

Yeah I even soaked it in hot water overnight

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[lynch]

Can you use ribbon wire ? whats the difference?

 

[Big Screen D]

anybody noticed that whenever you put a new wick(cheesecloth) into the coil after a dryburn...theres a lingering burnt taste??? might have to do a whole new rebuild

Yep, found the same thing with rinse only. I rinse out after dry burning the naked coil, then the head gets a bath in my ultra sonic cleaner. Nichrome wire and head comes out as new.

 

[Marredding]

I just tried the 30/30 method and it worked perfect. I had 5 or 6 T3s hanging around not working very well and now they are great. NO more gurgling and great draw. I just ordered 32 gage wire and am going to try a recoil when they give out. I am very happy with this. Next I am going to try it with the Protank and Evods