How long to Kanger Pro coils last?
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It's not. It's more for more seasoned users to extend the life. It's a little tougher than the vivi nova heads. I've only done it once with evod (90 percent same as protank) . What i did was remove the silicone cap, wiggle the metal post off. I carefully took off the flavor wicks and then run the coil under the sink in hot water. Then I rinsed the flavor wicks. I dried the flavor wicks by squeezing the wick with a folded paper towel. Then I pulsed the atty while I can see the coil glowing nice and evenly. You put it all back together and it helps get the gunk out. You can just as easily put on a brand new head but I like to save money. My wife inspires me she is one of those extreme couponers. Lolz
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YEP.. this has been my plan so far!
Well... I think since I an well known for causing things to malfunction, I'll just plan on buying new ones. Sounds less expensive to me, some how!
That would work fine. I use 3mm silica wick to rebuild mine. A doubled-up 1.5mm wick would work just the same.
Awesome. I actually got some 3mm coming to me today. Do you use the same size for the flavor wicks?
I separate the 3mm wick into thirds and use two of the thirds as flavor wicks. If you're using a thick liquid or tend to chain vape, you might want to reduce the volume of flavor wicks.
I appreciate it. I'll be giving it a go tommorow at work when it's not busy.
Been chain vaping between two Pro-tanks for two days.
One tank I left the original 2.4ohm head in it and the other I put in a 1.8ohm head.
They both seem to burn best around 4.0v up or down depending the juice. Fruity seems to want more volts, nutty less etc.
But only maybe +-.3 or so.
The 1.8 does a little better at lower settings but not much better.
The 1.8 got cloggy with a custom mix so I pulled it and cleaned it pretty good though I did not pull the long stem and get down into the atty itself.
I just watched a tutorial about that and all of a sudden a bright light bulb went off in my head almost as good as a flash back.
I mean Custom Wick building and Coil making here I come!
I did however pull the conductor stem from the other side and found it was a bit wet so I cleaned all that and was good to go again with nice smooth vapor.
Something I have noticed is that so far the coil heads come with the contact head pushed all the way in and that makes them TOO SHORT to make solid contact with my eGo-c Twists.
So now every time I pull the tank for a reload I also pop that little sucker out a fingernails worth and then check it is tight in the base (it came lose once from unscrewing the base I suppose) then I reassemble the base/coil to the tank as usual.
I also learned to screw the eGo collar/skirt down to bottom it out then install the Pro-Tank then crank the skirt back up to be nice and tight to the tank to help give it wide support.
That skirt can be up high enough to prevent the base from screwing all the way down so be aware of that and be careful as you can get spotty connectivity as a result.
The Pro-Tank is much more of a pain to use than the T2 tanks but HEY! IT IS GLASS!
But I still won't use any vapor that can eat polycarbonate plastic as I have a hunch it isn't good for me (or you).
You can test if a juice will do that by putting a drop of juice on THE BURNABLE SIDE of an old CD as it is also polycarbonate plastic.
Leave it overnight and if it in doesn't wipe off completely clean it is (in my opinion) a BAD thing to inhale.
I can't wait till they make a CE5s or a T2s out of Pyrex as those are still my personal favs.
Cheers!
One tank I left the original 2.4ohm head in it and the other I put in a 1.8ohm head.
They both seem to burn best around 4.0v up or down depending the juice. Fruity seems to want more volts, nutty less etc.
But only maybe +-.3 or so.
The 1.8 does a little better at lower settings but not much better.
The 1.8 got cloggy with a custom mix so I pulled it and cleaned it pretty good though I did not pull the long stem and get down into the atty itself.
I just watched a tutorial about that and all of a sudden a bright light bulb went off in my head almost as good as a flash back.
I mean Custom Wick building and Coil making here I come!
I did however pull the conductor stem from the other side and found it was a bit wet so I cleaned all that and was good to go again with nice smooth vapor.
Something I have noticed is that so far the coil heads come with the contact head pushed all the way in and that makes them TOO SHORT to make solid contact with my eGo-c Twists.
So now every time I pull the tank for a reload I also pop that little sucker out a fingernails worth and then check it is tight in the base (it came lose once from unscrewing the base I suppose) then I reassemble the base/coil to the tank as usual.
I also learned to screw the eGo collar/skirt down to bottom it out then install the Pro-Tank then crank the skirt back up to be nice and tight to the tank to help give it wide support.
That skirt can be up high enough to prevent the base from screwing all the way down so be aware of that and be careful as you can get spotty connectivity as a result.
The Pro-Tank is much more of a pain to use than the T2 tanks but HEY! IT IS GLASS!
But I still won't use any vapor that can eat polycarbonate plastic as I have a hunch it isn't good for me (or you).
You can test if a juice will do that by putting a drop of juice on THE BURNABLE SIDE of an old CD as it is also polycarbonate plastic.
Leave it overnight and if it in doesn't wipe off completely clean it is (in my opinion) a BAD thing to inhale.
I can't wait till they make a CE5s or a T2s out of Pyrex as those are still my personal favs.
Cheers!
I had a Vapeonly head last me 3 1/2 months, washing it with hot water every other tank. No dry burning, but putting it overnight in alcohol. The evod head lasted me 2 months. I suggest you keep a couple and rotate them, it's the best way to keep them running good.
70/30 and 60/40 and I've had Vapeonly and T3 heads lasting me since march... Threw the 2.1 ohm last week.
I am up to 3 weeks on one and 4 weeks on the other original ProTank head. As far as cleaning heads in general I tend not to bother. When the draw gets too tight or the taste too off or it quits all together, I just rebuild the head. I try to keep 10 or so heads ready to go so I can do my rebuilding when it is convenient.
Just cleaning every other tank, no dry burn, in alcohol overnight. For the price and how much they last I'm not babying heads anymore. I don't have any overly dark liquids, those could be a problem.
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