How long will this RBA build last before I need to replace?

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Ok- so I was going to get this THE ULTIMATE #CLOUDCHASING K101 Mechanical Mod Package + UPGRADE OPTIONS | VAPEHAPPYVAPEHAPPY package to upgrade my ego set up. I was going to get the custom "SOAKER" build (.35 ohms) that the owner builds before he sends it. I was going to try it out, but i dont feel comfortable rebuilding things myself, as i am pretty new to the sub ohm building. I was thinking of switching between the rba that this package comes with, and my protank on the mod itself. So how long will this build last before it goes "bad" or it needs to be replaced. Thanks in advance!
 

retired1

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I would suggest educating yourself on the use of mechanicals and how they affect batteries before jumping in with both feet. If you aren't up to speed on all the safety aspects of using a mechanical, and especially the safety aspects of sub ohm vaping, you shouldn't be thinking of getting into it.
 
I have been reading a lot of the sub ohm building safety posts, and have watched countless amounts of safety videos. I understand all of the safety aspects, I just do not feel comfortable actually BUILDING the actual atomizer myself, which is why i think that the pre-built custom build from the site would be good for me. If i feel intimidated, or I just end up not liking the sub ohm world, i can just throw on the protank (or any other one of my tanks) and use the mod and the tank- no safety issues, and the curiosity will go away. Besides, the k101 mod and battery will last longer than my 650 mah ego, and it looks badass!
 

mavric

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I didn't mean to say install a kick, that was silly on my part as most kicks won't even operate on sub ohm builds that low. Just make sure you get the right type of mech mod and battery, as you're going to be pulling a huge amount of power from it.

As far as rebuilding, you can always take it up to a local shop and have them help you with it. If that's not an option, watching youtube videos and practicing is really all you have. Time, patience, trial, and error my friend.


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Thanks for the help guys, but I dont see what you mean by "dangerous". I understand that i can burn myself, i understand that the battery can overheat and everything. The website owner did miltiple videos about the safety of the mod itself, and general sub ohm vaping safety. Most of it was common sense stuff- dont have the fire lock off when tinkering with the coil, dont touch the metal tip when the coil has just been fired, dont touch the wick or coils if it has not been cooled down, etc. The big danger is when it comes down to messing with lower ohms, but this custom build has been tested with everything in the kit. My main idea here is to try out the custom build (and i can take the build to my local mad vape shop to help me safely rebuild it if i get into it) and switch between the custom build, and a tank. Im not trying to be a smart ... here, just confused on what you mean by "dangerous". I feel like im not getting this, haha sorry for the newb questions
 

Sucker_dad

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Batteries can and have exploded when not used properly. There are a ton of pictures on here that show it. If I were you, and I know I am not, I would learn to build coils before I bought a K100 or any other mech. They really are not that hard to build. You do need an ohm meter to test for resistance and shorts. THe first 3-4 I made were horrible but you learn pretty quick what will work and what will not. Do a search on You tube for microcoil building and watch 5-6 of those videos. Then start with 2.0-2.5 ohm builds to see how they are done. Get your method down for building normal micros and then venture into subohm stuff if you want to. Besides exploding batteries can go into thermal runaway and just melt, cause a fire, burn the cr@p out of you. Here is a picture of a I think it's a 18350 which is one of the smaller ones. battery_fire.jpg
 

mavric

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Thanks for the help guys, but I dont see what you mean by "dangerous". I understand that i can burn myself, i understand that the battery can overheat and everything. The website owner did miltiple videos about the safety of the mod itself, and general sub ohm vaping safety. Most of it was common sense stuff- dont have the fire lock off when tinkering with the coil, dont touch the metal tip when the coil has just been fired, dont touch the wick or coils if it has not been cooled down, etc. The big danger is when it comes down to messing with lower ohms, but this custom build has been tested with everything in the kit. My main idea here is to try out the custom build (and i can take the build to my local mad vape shop to help me safely rebuild it if i get into it) and switch between the custom build, and a tank. Im not trying to be a smart ... here, just confused on what you mean by "dangerous". I feel like im not getting this, haha sorry for the newb questions

Because at 4.2V at .35 ohms, you are pulling nearly 50 watts/14 amps of power from the battery. Most batteries cannot handle that and can lead to dangerous situations (explosions). You need a well-vented mechanical mod with a high-drain protected IMR battery (MNKE, AW, Efest, Sony 30a, and Panasonic 650 batteries are popular among subohm vaporers). If you can follow these guidelines and learn the disciplines of subohm vaping, like never firing for long durations and checking for shorts, then you could definitely try it out. I wouldn't ever recommend taking it out as a daily driver though. Most guys that go under .5 are drippers that do it in places where they feel comfortable and safe.
 
Coming from me, being a daily subohm vaper, Before I jump into the subohm safety thing, if you order this, definately get the extra batt and nitecore charge upgrade. Subohm vaping will drain your battery before you get all the way around the monopoly board. I am glad to see that they are including the Sony 30a batteries as they are a must with subohm vaping, MNKE batteries are another fantastic option and a nitecore charge is a must. Quality chargers extend the life of your batteries and minimize the risk of them exploding while on the charger. The cheap wall chargers that most starter kits are death traps IMO.

Sub-ohm vaping, some love it, some hate it, some are scared out of their mind of it. Personally I love it because the feel, the flavor, the tremendous amounts of vapor, all of it. I subohm almost 100% of the time, while driving, shopping, at the bar, etc. (careful while driving and if you don't crack your window it will fog out the interior). The nature of the beast is that you MUST KNOW your equipment, think suhohm vapers creed, "this is my vape, there are many like it, but this one is mine...". You must use the right batteries, the right mods, the right coil wraps. You need to understand ohms law, invest in an atty ohm meter that doubles as a great building stand too. You must be willing to except that you will need to change your batteries every couple of hours. A 1300mAh ego will last you all day but a 1500mAh 18650 on a subohm will be 1-3 hours.

The hard truth is that if you are afraid to wrap coils, this is not for you. I was a little intimidated at first when I start rebuilding, but with practice, it can be mastered. Just because you are starting out with a .35 build from the shop, does not mean you have to always build your own in the future at .35. You also must be prepared to spend another $75 on tools, meter, wire, wick etc, and don't forget the massive increase in juice consumption (it got to the point that I now make my own juice) Ebay is a great source to buy bulk wire and bulk wick. Most B&M vape shops sell wire $1/ft where you can get 50ft of 28ga on ebay for about $9 shipped.

If you are still interested I can reply with more, just wanted to give you a taste of what you are in for. The one major negative thing that I have found is that once you go sub-ohm, you can't go back. Nothing will taste or feel the same again.
 
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Baditude

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Thanks for the help guys, but I dont see what you mean by "dangerous". I understand that i can burn myself, i understand that the battery can overheat and everything. The website owner did miltiple videos about the safety of the mod itself, and general sub ohm vaping safety. Most of it was common sense stuff- dont have the fire lock off when tinkering with the coil, dont touch the metal tip when the coil has just been fired, dont touch the wick or coils if it has not been cooled down, etc. The big danger is when it comes down to messing with lower ohms, but this custom build has been tested with everything in the kit. My main idea here is to try out the custom build (and i can take the build to my local mad vape shop to help me safely rebuild it if i get into it) and switch between the custom build, and a tank. Im not trying to be a smart ... here, just confused on what you mean by "dangerous". I feel like im not getting this, haha sorry for the newb questions
A growing trend across the nation is that some vape store salesmen know how to make a sub-ohm coil, but throw caution to the wind when it comes to safety. They will sell a novice vapor his very first mechanical mod with a sub-ohm on a RBA, and then just throw any kind of battery in with the mod (whether it is an appropriate battery for sub-ohms or not), and not give any safety instruction...just go home and make some clouds. This is pure negligence on their part. Either they are ignorant of proper sub-ohm safety, or they care nothing about the safety of their customer.

I know of one person who bought his first RBA from one of these vendors, and the salesman offered to make the first coil for him. The customer asked for a 1.0 ohm coil, as he had done his homework and knew his battery would not support a sub-ohm coil. The salesman made the coil, didn't measure it on a multimeter. When the customer got home and measured it, it was a 0.3 ohm coil.

These batteries that we use in mods were not designed to be used in mods, they are borrowed from other applications like flashlights. Our mods, in particular those that use sub-ohm coils, often can pull way more amps from the battery than they were designed to. Batteries react very angry when we do that, and can overheat, meltdown, and explode into flames. Not something you want to happen just inches from your face.

Doing sub-ohm coils in an RBA on a mechanical mod is a far cry from using a clearomizer on an Ego battery. It requires the person to do adequate research on battery chemistries and battery specifications, how to measure the coil with a multimeter and how to use the Ohm's Law Calculator to be sure that coil will not pull more amps than the battery has to give. Ignoring these basics would be a disaster waiting to happen.
 
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A great bridge to get to subohm vaping is a VV (variable volt) device. You can use RDA/RBAs on them and learn the art of wrapping coils with out crossing into the subohm category. VV devices compensate for high resistance attys by delivering higher voltages and they usually have a built in safety feature that will shut it down if it detects a short and most won't fire under 1.0ohm. I learned building with a Vamo and an AGAT2 RBA and an igo-l RDA. Great thing about it is you can use the AGAT2 and Igo-l on mechanical devices too. Mainly, I don't want to see you drop $100 on a mech and an RDA and get completely frustrated with it (trust me, you will get frustrated at first until you master your technique) and give up on vaping or even worse, blow up the device using the mystery gray china batteries. Batteries IMO are the most important step to safety and performance. If you decide to go the VV route, I would avoid the "starter" kits as they usually contain junk batteries and an even junkier charger. It may be tempting to spend that extra $10 to get the batteries and charger in the starter kit, but you'll end up buying better batteries and chargers shortly down the road.
 

K_Tech

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I just want to echo what others have said:

Do your homework. There's a LOT of good information out there, especially on this forum. If you've got your I's dotted and your T's crossed, rebuildables can be a lot of fun - especially if you're like me and like to tinker.

As a N00b myself, I wouldn't want to discourage someone from exploring different setups, but go into it with the understanding that you're venturing into an area that will be at best, risky - and at worst, dangerous.
 

1990FOXBODY

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I used to use a K101 and a Protank with a 1.5 ohm coil for pocket carry at work. If you do not like the sub ohm thing the K will still be useful. I have not seen that part of your question answered.

As others have warned, there is a lot to be aware of when doing this but you will never go back once you do. The flavors will come alive if done right. I only drip now, tho I stick around 1 to 1.5 ohm since that is all I need. Take your time. If anything seems weird or if anything gets hot stop IMMEDIATELY and vape your spare while you figure out what is going wrong. Heed EVERY bit of advice given so far.
 
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