How often do you clean your contacts?

[Kazuko]

Hi guys,

Title says it all pretty much... I've had my first tube two weeks ago, and haven't cleaned it yet. I don't have polish materials, and I'm yet to get my ... up and walk to a store that sells some. Anyway, I've used it quite extensively, and I think it's hitting noticeably softer than it did when I first used it.

So, adding to the title question, how long after a cleaning do you notice a drop in performance?

On another note, if you guys have any tips to clean arching marks... I've tried the green side of a sponge, but it really didn't do anything, and I don't wanna put too much elbow oil in it, I'm afraid to damage the battery's contacts...

 

[r055co]

On average bi weekly.

Yes if they are dirty noticeable drop in performance plus depending on how dirty hot button issues. I clean my Mechs with Wrights Copper Cream mostly and for my pure silver I use Wrights Silver Cream. I like it because Wrights because it does an excellent job cleaning, isn't petroleum based and water soluble. On the very rare occasion I get arch marks I'll use around 1200+ grit emery paper. Also after cleaning for Aluminium and SS Mech's I use Noalox on threads and on Silver, Copper, Brass mods threads and all contacts I use Deoxit Gold.

 

[Kazuko]

Thanks for the suggestions! Unfortunately in France brands differ, I'll have to try and find similar products :/
I'm reassured that this is the cause of the performance loss though, it was either the contacts or the cell, and 2 intense weeks would have been disappointing for a VTC5A! (It's the only unmarried one I have)

 

[r055co]

Thanks for the suggestions! Unfortunately in France brands differ, I'll have to try and find similar products :/
I'm reassured that this is the cause of the performance loss though, it was either the contacts or the cell, and 2 intense weeks would have been disappointing for a VTC5A! (It's the only unmarried one I have)

You should be able to find Deoxit over there, if not look up the description to find something similar. As for Wrights, it's formulated for cleaning Cooking Pot's, Pan's, Silverware, etc. Big benefit for me is that it's non toxic and water soluble. Being water soluble easily wash off, dry then polish with a polishing cloth. Other polishing agents like Brasso, Mother's, etc. polishing cream is petroleum based. So you'll have it building up in cracks, etc where you can't wipe it off plus other downsides. Anyway that's my recommedation.

 

[Kazuko]

Thank you so much! I'll probably shop tomorrow

 

[Zaryk]

I will second the recommendation of Deoxit. While I don't use tube mods, I do use it on my contacts of my mech squonk mods. Very good stuff.

I gently sand any arching marks with 1000 grit (or higher) sand paper. Takes it right off.

 

[Kazuko]

I ordered copper cleaning wax/cream (intended for cooking pots as well, with good reviews and not super pricy), polishing cloths and sand papers ranging from 400 to 1500. Deoxit is quite expensive (36€ for 2ml), so I'll postpone that purchase. Not that I neglect its benefits, but I'm on a really tight budget for the remaining part of the year... (French taxes can be tough on one's budget when one forgets to pay them for 3 years )

I'll be delivered the supplies in the next two days, will keep you updated on whether they do well!

 

[Kazuko]

I just received the copper cleaning product. Didn't open it yet, I'm at work, but it feels/sounds much more liquid than I expected. Also, it says not to use on varnished (not sure about the translation, it's French, so "vernis" translates to either that or "polished") or lacqued (same, translation may be "glossy") metal, and there are deep black engravings on my tube.
Do you think this product could remove the black of the engravings? Not sure what they're made of, it's a cheap tube ordered from FT, so I wouldn't cry over it anyway, but still, they're pretty
Also, is this ok to use on the contact? Or should I really only use sand paper on it? I'm not sure what the contact is made of, being a cheap tube I expect it to be some kind of plated SS, not sure what it's plated with, but I wouldn't bet it's silver

 

[Kazuko]

Follow up :

I didn't receive the micro-fiber towels yet, so I didn't polish anything. I do have the sand paper though, so I gently scrubbed the contact pin with 1000 grit, got rid of the arching marks really well. I think it also took some of the plating off around the edges though, but not near the middle (the edges look a bit more orange than the rest of the screw, I didn't take a picture and I've assembled the switch back, I'll disassemble it tomorrow so I'll try and remember to take one).
I tried the 1000 grit on the cell's positive contact, being really gentle so as not to damage the wrap, it didn't do anything so I used the 1200, got rid of some of the arching but there is still a decent amount of it, just lighter... I didn't try the 1500, not sure if it's a good idea, I'm waiting for your thoughts before I attempt something else on the contact.

It does feel like it's hitting a bit harder than before I cleaned the pin though, slightly warmer vape and thicker clouds. I'm not so sure, it may be placebo effect. I'll compare it when I fully charge the battery, I think it'll be more obvious/objective.

Edit : it hits waaay harder. I just took the cell out to check the charge, it's at 3.65V, and the vape was still warm and decently cloudy. Before cleaning, I really HAD TO recharge the cell when it reached 3.8V, so yeah, the sand paper worked really fine! When I first got the tube I found that down to 3.7 or 3.6 it was fine, below that was too weak, so it looks like I've got the original performances. I'm pretty happy right now!

 

[r055co]

Follow up :

I didn't receive the micro-fiber towels yet, so I didn't polish anything. I do have the sand paper though, so I gently scrubbed the contact pin with 1000 grit, got rid of the arching marks really well. I think it also took some of the plating off around the edges though, but not near the middle (the edges look a bit more orange than the rest of the screw, I didn't take a picture and I've assembled the switch back, I'll disassemble it tomorrow so I'll try and remember to take one).
I tried the 1000 grit on the cell's positive contact, being really gentle so as not to damage the wrap, it didn't do anything so I used the 1200, got rid of some of the arching but there is still a decent amount of it, just lighter... I didn't try the 1500, not sure if it's a good idea, I'm waiting for your thoughts before I attempt something else on the contact.

It does feel like it's hitting a bit harder than before I cleaned the pin though, slightly warmer vape and thicker clouds. I'm not so sure, it may be placebo effect. I'll compare it when I fully charge the battery, I think it'll be more obvious/objective.

Edit : it hits waaay harder. I just took the cell out to check the charge, it's at 3.65V, and the vape was still warm and decently cloudy. Before cleaning, I really HAD TO recharge the cell when it reached 3.8V, so yeah, the sand paper worked really fine! When I first got the tube I found that down to 3.7 or 3.6 it was fine, below that was too weak, so it looks like I've got the original performances. I'm pretty happy right now!

The Deoxit should cut down on the arching. Sanding will remove plating, no way around it.

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[CagedSpam]

On the Reo forum I have read people using a pencil eraser to remove arc marks.

HTH

 

[Kazuko]

I actually looked for an eraser but I don't have any at home (or any that I can find).

The one thing that reassures me is that arching since the cleaning has mostly happened where the plate has been removed, which makes me think that this is probably the part that made contact, and it hits just fine really! Also, the unplated part of the contact looks kinda like copper, and I suppose a solid copper contact is just fine. Not sure that's it though

 

[Outcast]

I clean weekly but I like to go with silver cuz of less cleaning


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[VHRB2014]

They kinda have this way of letting me know they need to be cleaned. Weak vape, lol. Iv been know to rub them vigorously on my jeans, or a scrap of cardboard. Very rarely I might use a piece of metal on them, a safety pin, whatever that will scrap the oxidation off. The easier it is to disassemble and knock off any scum, the more I like the mod.

 

[Kazuko]

It seems I've found my routine, 3 to 4 days of use are enough to feel the vape getting weaker, I rub it gently on a 1000 grit sandpaper, and it'll easily take any arching off. The cell's top contact is harder to really clean, I'm yet to try and find something more efficient (may try 1500 grit, kinda worried it'll be too abrasive), I'd need another un-married VTC5A to see how much performance is impacted by arching on the cell.

Two weeks without polish is barely noticeable though, only the hidden parts of the switch and top cap seem dirty, but I don't feel much difference in terms of performance whether it is polished or not. I'm not sure I polish it very well though, I did notice a change of color between polished and unpolished, but I feel I may have been too weak on the elbow oil on this one, I did rub it nice and firm, took about 20-30 minutes to do the whole mod but it was my first time doing it so I took it slow to make sure I wasn't doing anything stupid. I couldn't tell if it was just like brand new, the tube has a brushed finish so there's no shiny visual clue on how clean it is...

 

[Ben85]

Using sandpaper every 3-4 days seems excessive to me. Using a polishing compound, maybe, but even then once a week tops. All depends on the mod and the build though.

 

[Outcast]

Using sandpaper every 3-4 days seems excessive to me. Using a polishing compound, maybe, but even then once a week tops. All depends on the mod and the build though.

Wow ya I agree with you Never dull from Walmart will fill your contact needs


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[Kazuko]

I didn't try the polish before sandpaper, dunno how effective this will be for arching marks. I'll try it next time!

 

[CagedSpam]

This is reminding me of lapping a pc's heatsink to get better thermal conductivity.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/63-other-cooling-discussions/290130-lapping-your-cpu-heatsink.html

I might have to try it on an old mech.

After using Noalox for most of a year and then trying Deoxit Gold, the deoxit gold is worth it IMO. Maybe a buddy from the states could help you out.