How to alter the location of your airhole?

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zmauls

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Are you using the thicker o-ring? Fixed it for me...used to point towards the firing button (with the small o-ring), now it faces the opposite side.

Mine only came with one, and it's very thin. I think I'm looking at a trip to the Home Depot.

Edit: Actually, if I tighten it without the O-ring all the way, it ends up towards the button, which is where I want it. It does, however, feel almost "unsafely" tight, which I presume exists. If not, we're good.
 
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Della Cirque

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Mine only came with one, and it's very thin. I think I'm looking at a trip to the Home Depot.

Edit: Actually, if I tighten it without the O-ring all the way, it ends up towards the button, which is where I want it. It does, however, feel almost "unsafely" tight, which I presume exists. If not, we're good.

Over tightening isn't good. I thought Rob had the thicker one's on the website, but I can't find them now. Somebody will chime in about the sizes soon, I'm sure.
 

zmauls

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Rob sells caps for $5. Drill your own. 3/64 drill bit. :D

I already have two undrilled caps lying around, but it doesn't fix the problem. The problem lies in the placement and depth of the 510 threading.

That is to say, my coil is already perfectly aligned with my airhole. I simply want to suck air through the upward face of my RM2, not the downward.
 

mackman

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Mine only came with one, and it's very thin. I think I'm looking at a trip to the Home Depot.

Edit: Actually, if I tighten it without the O-ring all the way, it ends up towards the button, which is where I want it. It does, however, feel almost "unsafely" tight, which I presume exists. If not, we're good.

At home depot pickup PartsmasterPro #207 o rings (pack of 10 $1.98) works perfectly.
 

zmauls

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How to alter the location of an airhole ? ...

Hmmm....

On vaping gear : small drill bit and a tiny plug

On ANTZ : roundhouse to the kisser

On politicians, esp ecially those opposed to vaping : major rectal surgery ?

With all due respect, read the thread before posting. You misread the question, as did someone else, and that confusion has already been cleared up. As for the bottle cap O-ring, I happen to have a few spares. Updates coming soon, just gotta find them in the bowels of my vape cabinet.

I shouldn't need to purchase anything from the site for a while besides a sub-ohm kit when it's released. I have four Triangles worth of screws and posts, 4 spare bottles (two of which have O-rings), two undrilled caps, 60 ft. of Kanthal, a spare (unused) firing pin, three extra buttons (one made of Teflon), three extra springs, and one extra delrin screw. I'm good, right? :D
 

zmauls

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Rob sells two types of o-rings, I used the thicker one that goes in the bottle and that got my airhole to be on the button side.

Update: Works perfectly, thanks. I had to tighten it quite a bit, but I'm comfortable with that as it's not a raw tightening against the 510 connection, but instead a compression of the O-ring.

Cheers.
 

Filthy-Beast

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Try a drip tip o-ring on the 510 connector allows you get more pressure without over tightening the pin to pin connection. The higher pressure allows you to swing it 180 without issues. Plus it stays put on the RM2 and you wont lose it while taking the RM2 off or even washing it. I'm an odd bird and like my airhole facing the button.
 

zmauls

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Try a drip tip o-ring on the 510 connector allows you get more pressure without over tightening the pin to pin connection. The higher pressure allows you to swing it 180 without issues. Plus it stays put on the RM2 and you wont lose it while taking the RM2 off or even washing it. I'm an odd bird and like my airhole facing the button.

As do I, old friend. I actually tried that, and it worked nicely, but I was worried the O-ring might melt after extensive use. I ended up using a squonk-bottle's O-ring, and it's working great. If you can guarantee a life of use without melting, I may use the 510 O-ring instead and put this one back where it belongs. After all, I only have three of these, but I have 1, 2, 3 - hold on - 116 510 O-rings.
 
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Filthy-Beast

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Here's my :2c: With an RM2 the coil is probably closer to the bigger o-ring than the drip o-ring. Plus you have a ceramic cup between the coil and the bottom. Also the center pin is not straight through and if that O-ring melts there will probably also be heat problems with insulators in the RM2 and 510 connection as well. I run it on my RM2 with single .8 ohms coils and my Cyclone dual coils at .76 ohms.
 

zmauls

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Here's my :2c: With an RM2 the coil is probably closer to the bigger o-ring than the drip o-ring. Plus you have a ceramic cup between the coil and the bottom. Also the center pin is not straight through and if that O-ring melts there will probably also be heat problems with insulators in the RM2 and 510 connection as well. I run it on my RM2 with single .8 ohms coils and my Cyclone dual coils at .76 ohms.

Indeed, I wasn't talking about the coil melting the O-ring; that's just silly. I was more worried about the 510 connection itself getting extremely hot, even if just for a brief second, as it might in a ground out. I don't want to spend two hours picking out miniscule clumps of melted rubber from my catch-cup and center pins. ;)
 

Filthy-Beast

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I did the fuse mod and did a hard short to test it with my cyclone +o-ring installed. As long as you have the spring or a fuse to brake the circuit I wouldn't worry about it. What you got works so no biggy either way. On my list of things that could or eventually will go wrong and cause me not to able to vape or that might be dangerous this o-ring did not make the list.
 
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