How-To Direct Drip an Atmomizer for Newbies

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makaluch

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Aug 17, 2013
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These instructions are from from AvidVaper.com written specifically for low-resistance Cisco Spec atomizers . As a new dripper I found them to be extremely informative. The knowledge transcends to all direct drip attys and explains proper form. Enjoy!

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[h=2]Cisco LR Atomizer User Guide and Helpful Tips[/h][h=2]The LR 306 User Guide[/h]
[h=2]This guide will continuously be updated, but this is going to serve as our baseline.[/h]
[h=2]What you should know:[/h]
[h=2]• When using a new LR 306 for the first time, it is important to prime the atomizer properly. Cisco LR 306 atomizers come with NO PRIMER, therefore special care must be taken. Priming is done by dripping 4 to 5 drops directly onto the atomizer coil, waiting about 60 seconds, then dripping another 1 to 2 drops. After this is done, you are ready to take your first drag. Do not press the button before this point.[/h]
[h=2]• These atomizers come with no primer because a) So you don't have to clean it out & b) Some people are sensitive to primer.[/h]
[h=2] • As with all LR atomizers, do not use with any batteries rated higher than 3.7v.[/h]
[h=2]• LR 306 must not be “dry burned” to be cleaned. This will damage the atomizer. Instead, soak in alcohol (Everclear | Vodka works best) if cleaning in absolutely necessary. Alternatively, try blowing out excess e-liquid from the bottom into a napkin.[/h]
[h=2]• LR 306 atomizer must be kept wet at all times. The moment you detect that your e-liquid is almost finished, drip at least 2 more drops.[/h][h=2]• These atomizer are designed for short hard draws, Taking long soft pulls could cause the atomizer to dry out and give off a burnt taste.[/h]
[h=2]• The LR 306 atomizer shares the same threading with the 510. It will fit on any device a 510 atomizer will fit on.[/h]
[h=2]• Do not use LR 306 (or any low resistance atomizer) with batteries rated less than 2000mA output, 1.5ohm atomizer will draw over 2amps of current @ 3.7v. Not only will it will damage a “standard” e-cig batteries, but you will not get the most out of low resistance.[/h]

[h=2]• These atomizers can take 24-48 hours to fully break in, depending on how often you vape. It is not uncommon to feed these atomizers up to 1ml of liquid within the first hour of usage during the break in period. The amount of liquid needed will decline after the initial 24-48 hour period. Some leaking from the bottom of the atomizer may occur during this period.[/h]

[h=2]• Do not use these atomizers on cigarette sized batteries. LR atomizers are known to significantly reduce the lifespan of eGo | Riva style batteries.Older heavily used batteries and batteries with faulty protection circuits can be instantly rendered useless. Use at your own risk.[/h][h=2]Drip tips:[/h]
[h=2]Do not force Version I Colored Translucent Drip Tips to the base of the atomizer. Press them down until you feel some resistance, then do not press any further in order to avoid any cracking or splitting.[/h]
[h=2]Version II Colored Translucent Drip Tips CAN be pressed to the base of the atomizer without worrying about cracking or breaking them. V2 is a new and improved design over V1.[/h]
[h=2]-> Enjoy this atomizer. With a drip tip, many find it to be their most enjoyable vaping experience to date.[/h]




HELPFUL HINTS FOR BURNT TASTE ON A LR ATOMIZER

There isn't anything inside of these atomizers that's not inside of every other atomizer. They are comprised of Ni Chrome heating wire and Silica wicking material and stainless steel mesh. Our atomizers do not come with minimal to no primer fluid. If you're getting a burnt taste from a new atomizer, it can be one of two things: burnt wick from a dry coil, or burnt juice from a wet coil. It is really that simple. The factors that cause either one of those to happen is not so simple.
1. Dry Coil:
Not enough liquid to wet the entire coil. LR atomizers need to be wet to a point just shy of flooded. These atomizers use an outrageous amount of liquid; you don't get all that vapor for free. Cisco atomizers have little to no primer fluid, the wicking materials (both the glas fibre and the nickel foam) need time to absorb liquid. when first loading an atomizer with liquid give it some time to steep and be absorbed . This is similar to a new bath towel that will not absorb water initially until its used a few times or washed.
2. Sensitive Liquids:
Some liquids cannot handle the heat output from a low resistance atomizer. Liquids with a high VG content will create a burnt taste at a lower temperature versus PG based liquids. The ingredients in some Juices do not fare well on LR atomizers. This is a trial and error process.
3. Long Drags | Chain Vaping:
LR atomizers are designed for short, hard pulls. Long drags on LR atomizers generate excessive amount of heat. They increase the potential for the coil running dry during a drag and burning the wick, or may even render the atomizer useless. Chain vaping does not give the atomizer enough time to cool which increases the stress on the coil.
4. Too much current to the atomizer:
Some of the larger battery's in mods have very little loaded voltage drop which translates into more current at the atomizer. More current = more heat to the coil, too much for some people.



LR ATOMIZER USAGE ADVICE
Learning curve:
There is a bit of a learning curve to using these atomizers. An inexperienced user might not have aquired the knowledge to past some of the issues that could arise.


Break in period:

For the most part there is no break in period. There is no primer to deal with and they usually work right out of the box. For reasons unknown some atomizers require a break in period and will take a little work to get them functioning to their potential.
Revisit the atomizer:
Not sure how this even makes a difference but I have experienced this personally. I have revisited new atomizers that were not functioning well or even burning juice and they performed perfect. Could be that there is liquid sitting in the coil for days or even weeks, I am not sure so I won't question it too much.

Vaping technique:

LR atomizers are Designed for short hard drags. The heat that is generated from such a low resistance doesn't work out so well for people who like to take long drags or even multiple drags. I have seen vapers take 2-3 full drags and never let the button go. This vaping technique is hard on an LR atomizer. You could go from a nice wet coil to a dry burnt taste before the end of a multiple drag. Experience and technique will play a major role here. Go easy until you can understand how the atomizer is going to perform, this process should be done with any new LR atomizer because of hand assembly in manufacturing and different battery output voltages.
Liquids
Some people don't realize that it's not the throat hit from nicotine they like , it's the throat burn from juices that are burning on LR atomizers. VG liquids tend to taste burnt with less heat then PG juices. Changing a liquid might change the performance of an LR atomizer. Some juices just don't do well on LR atomizers. Your favorite liquid on standard atomizers might become your worst enemy on LR atomizers.


Battery selection


An fully charged 18650 is going to generate more current (which converts to heat) to the atomizer then a smaller mod battery or Ego / Riva style batteries. IF your experiencing burnt taste a smaller battery might help. Even a half charged 18650 will provide a little less current. This is a trial and error period to figure out what battery or power level is going to work best for you.

Cleaning procedure

Some atomizers will give off a burnt taste out of the box. To many factors to determine why but the first step in removing that taste is to clean the atomizer. This is my technique and you may have your own, I suggest you use your cleaning method as long as it doesn't use water or steam. Soak the atomizer in a small cup of alcohol (vodka not isopropyl or rubbing alcohol )for a few hours or overnight if it's really burnt or caked with carbon build up. Remove it from the alcohol soak and blow it out and put it on a battery and burn off the remaining alcohol. Careful to keep an eye on the coil and not let it get glowing orange. Once the coil starts to glow you can load it up with juice and try and work it back in.

Not for you

Despite all the positive threads and buzz about LR atomizers they are not for everyone, If you have tried and just can't get these to work good for you them maybe it's time to try something different. The reason there are so many different models of atomizers and cartomizers is, there is no one atomizer that is going to work for everyone. These are an experienced user product, a new user is going to have a hard time getting past the learning curve and understanding the techniques that are involved.


CLEANING YOUR ATOMIZER

The best thing you could do at this point is give it a cleaning with Vodka (rubbing alcohol has a nasty taste and water takes too long to evaporate) and work the atomizer in. Some of the atomizers run very hot, it doesn't take much at all to get that burnt taste. I have had it happen to me on numerous occasions and have always been able to work it in and get past it. Some juices don't fair well on these atomizers, high % VG juices can't handle the heat generated by LR atomizers, its more of a trial and error. You could try and work this atomizer in on a softer battery ( not fully charged) sometimes a little bit of lower voltage is what the atomizer needs to work in.


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Source: Avid Vaper : Personal Vaporizers and Accessories
Source: https://docs.google.com/document/d/..._zTehflPsIv8f3_qI/edit?hl=en&authkey=CKqp6eoO
Image Source: from The Ocelot
atomizer.jpg


MM
 
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makaluch

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Aug 17, 2013
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More Information:

* I will update this thread with FYIs and do's and don'ts as I learn them
* I will edit in blue and update with what I learned - opinions and preferences are subjective and sometimes mistaken as facts


  1. Preference - DO NOT blow from the tip to the base. I previously thought it was a function of the device being sensitive to pressure from the top, however this is more of a preference according to cleaning style and theory from what I can tell.
  2. NEVER put an atty away dry after cleaning. Always put a little juice in it. Otherwise it will oxidize. - by tj99959
 
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tj99959

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    More Information:

    * I will update this thread with FYIs and do's and don'ts as I learn them.


    1. One-way air flow device - They are only designed to handle high pressure from the bottom of the ceramic bowl. DO NOT blow from the tip to the base.

    I actually disagree with this one point. Why would I want to blow the accumulation of crud from the base of the atomizer back into the atomizer? I can even show you a video of Hanna (maker of the HH 357) backtracking on this issue if you would like) Unless you are using an air compressor jacked up to 100psi, you will not hurt a thing by just blowing the crud out the bottom.

    The issue is that you want to get that crud out of your atomizer, how you do it doesn't really matter. What I do is purposely flood the atty (extra 3 or 4 dropps), and then just blow it out. Doing that on a regular bases makes it so that I clean an atty ................ maybe someday! The atty that I've been using this week has been in the rotation for about two years (Joyetech changed the design about 2 years ago). It has been cleaned in an alcohol bath maybe 4 or 5 times during that period.

    If you want to add a useful hint, I would add that you should NEVER put an atty away dry after cleaning. Always put a little juice in it. Otherwise it will oxidize.
     
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    makaluch

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    Totally agree tj55595. It's not a functional limitation but more of a preference during a quick clean or a soak clean.

    I think the rationale is that you eject the gunk at the bottom through the top, only hitting the bottom of the ceramic bowl and theoretically avoiding the coil/wick and the underside of the bridge. However, if you happen to leave burnt or thick juice on the bottom of the bridge or coil and wick, that might require soaking to clean. I suppose any cleaning method can work if the coil and wick are in tact.

    I'm still learning. I'll update the post and update the original info with what I've learned to document the journey of a dripping noob. Thanks man!
     
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