How to Increase Flavor and TH with DIDs and Provari?

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vapdivrr

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i own a provari v-2 and DID, i find the FL&TH better with 28g then 32. for me personally, TH & FL is better with a lower resistance coil. i prefer a 0.09 to 1.1 ohm coil on the provari. right now i am vaping a 4/5 wrap of 28 @3.5volts. a lot of people say that the provari doesnt like low ohm coils and that its very touchy, i really dont have that issue. and personally, since moving from the 32g to the 28g i find that building a coil is alot easier. for me the thinner wire was alot more fidgity. good luck
 

Rule62

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i own a provari v-2 and DID, i find the FL&TH better with 28g then 32. for me personally, TH & FL is better with a lower resistance coil. i prefer a 0.09 to 1.1 ohm coil on the provari. right now i am vaping a 4/5 wrap of 28 @3.5volts. a lot of people say that the provari doesnt like low ohm coils and that its very touchy, i really dont have that issue. and personally, since moving from the 32g to the 28g i find that building a coil is alot easier. for me the thinner wire was alot more fidgity. good luck

If you're vaping a 1.0 ohm coil at 3.5V, you're right at the amp limit on a V2 Provari.
 

gdeal

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I think there's a misperception surrounding 28 gauge that if you use it, you must be an extreme vaper- I feel like most vapers' understanding of high-wattage vaping has more to do with experience on standard atties and cartos, and even with 32 gauge, all of which behave much differently than 28 gauge does. A proper 28 gauge coil might be high-wattage, but it won't behave the same as running a standard atty at that same level of power- it's much cooler and refined, watt-for-watt.

think of it this way: if you built a hypothetical coil out of silver "NR" wire, it would short your battery, of course- but also, it would not heat up at all. This would be the extreme of high-wattage, when in fact, the low-resistance becomes so low that no heat is generated. So there is an inverse property to wire gauge, thickness and resistance that happens as the thickness increases and resistance approaches zero, and I think as more people get into thicker wire, it will become more apparent over time that we aren't necessarily "extreme" vapers- at least some of us aren't. ;)


More discussion on this subject here, if anyone is interested:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-not-matter-its-all-about-wire-temp-read.html
 

gdeal

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i own a provari v-2 and DID, i find the FL&TH better with 28g then 32. for me personally, TH & FL is better with a lower resistance coil. i prefer a 0.09 to 1.1 ohm coil on the provari. right now i am vaping a 4/5 wrap of 28 @3.5volts. a lot of people say that the provari doesnt like low ohm coils and that its very touchy, i really dont have that issue. and personally, since moving from the 32g to the 28g i find that building a coil is alot easier. for me the thinner wire was alot more fidgity. good luck

+1 on vapdivrr' post. I'm using a 1.2 ohm 28g coil on a provari with no problems. Using 28g with the drill bit method and then fitting the wick to coil is far easier to work with than wrapping wire around wick with 32g. :2c:
 

natchez

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I am currently using a six wrap 30g A-1 coil in an AC9 reading a consistent 2.0 ohms on my Provari 2 without any issues. I prefer more coil coverage on the wick; it seems to give a better overall experience. I had been using a 4 wrap 32g coil and it also worked fine, but since some 30g wire came with AC9 I have been giving that a try.

I have not had such good results using DUDs on the Provari. They seem to me to be very touchy with just some jarring in the car or a big change in elevation +/- 2,500 ft. causing them to fail to fire on the Provari. I am glad I took some back up devices when I went hunting. Of course, it could be me, but I have successfully restored some tube radios and grew up with Heathkits, so my electronics ability is likely passable. Boy, I am really dating myself here :blush:
 

Kemosabe

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i just bought 100' of 32g becasue i like its performance. but ive known about 28 for some time and i found 25' for $2.90 so why the hell not. i think i should be able to stay under 3.5A. i cant wait to see how it performs. ive also got some 500 mesh that i havent tried yet. i already think my DuD is awesome, but this new setup is exciting.
 

vapdivrr

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i know there is an amp limit on the P2 but not sure how to figure that out. but for the wattage limit, i thought the P-2 watt limit is 15 watts. with my set-up i figured it to be about 12.5 watts. (w=V2 divided by ohms) so using that i always thought i was far in the safe zone. MELBOURNE can you tell me how amps limits are figured? thanks
 

Rule62

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i know there is an amp limit on the P2 but not sure how to figure that out. but for the wattage limit, i thought the P-2 watt limit is 15 watts. with my set-up i figured it to be about 12.5 watts. (w=V2 divided by ohms) so using that i always thought i was far in the safe zone. MELBOURNE can you tell me how amps limits are figured? thanks

I use this calculator, when I'm at the computer: Ohm's Law Calculations With Power
Recently, I found an Ohm's Law app for my iPhone. Type Ohm's Law Calculator into the search.
 

vapdivrr

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just checked out the table, for watts, doing a 1.0ohm coil and 3.5volts, does give you around 12.25 watts. now to the amp table. i entered 12.25 watts and the 3.5 volts it seemed to be around 2.3 amps, which makes sense, because i have used lower coils and vaped closer to the 15watt limit. but being that this was the first time using that table i could be wrong.
 

Rule62

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thanks will check it out. so do you think the p2 shuts down to whichever comes first, over amp limit or over wattage limit?

I can't say, for sure, because I've never approached the wattage limit. I'm never above 10.5 watts or so. On my version 1s, I stay at or below about 2.0 amps.
 

Pooladdict247

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check out the Vapelink episode where they interview Zen- he goes into detail about his ?magic amp-limiting spring", swears that its real.
Thanks alot for the heads up I just watched it, 2 hours well spent. Alot of great info about my specific device which I was totally unaware of. So glad I commented in here...I love this forum!!

As far as my specific setup goes I've just learned that the spring in my cobalt can handle 7 amps before failure, which I was unaware of. And the aw imr 18350 can handle 6 amps which I was aware of.

V Ninja you are correct, Zen only recommends 32ga kanthal that is shipped with his devices...per his insurance liability coverage. I may be pushing the limits at 5 amps, but Im going to order some 30ga tonight to keep my mind at ease because as Ive just become informed and its now festering in my mind and although I am under the amp limit I really don't wanna push my luck...guess Ill have to save the 28 for my incoming hellraiser.

Oh yea heres the vid if anyone was interested...
Vapelink Episode 12: Fireworks- Zen. Jeannie, and Coz goes off...... - YouTube
 

Rule62

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eh.. I'm all about breaking rules and pushing boundaries. I say have at it! And enjoy your sexy blue PV :)

For your own amusement, that's fine. But as general advice to someone who might be unaware of the very real possibility of battery failure, I won't give that sort of advice. Battery thermal failure can and does happen. I'd rather follow Zen's advice, and take the safer route.
 

j4mmin42

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For your own amusement, that's fine. But as general advice to someone who might be unaware of the very real possibility of battery failure, I won't give that sort of advice. Battery thermal failure can and does happen. I'd rather follow Zen's advice, and take the safer route.

'Tis true. Normally I argue for safety, you know that. In this case though, the PV limits amps for you...and although I'm not sure I trust in the PV's capability to do that, I DO trust the batteries' 8C rating (AW IMR 18350). This gives a theoretical MAX operational discharge of 5.6A, so he's well within the limit (depending on your definition of "well")

For the sake of conversation, I never recommend 18350's for use in mech-mod RBA's. But, if someone is willing to sit for two hours and learn all about his/her devices' ins and outs- from the creator of the device itself- and still wants to do things his/her way, who am I to stop them? (yes, I watched the whole two hours too, btw)

With RBA's there's potential for more risk in every aspect of what we do and how we use them, as compared to conventional PV's. Everyone needs to ask themselves what they consider to be "safe enough".
 

Rule62

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'Tis true. Normally I argue for safety, you know that. In this case though, the PV limits amps for you...and although I'm not sure I trust in the PV's capability to do that, I DO trust the batteries' 8C rating (AW IMR 18350). This gives a theoretical MAX operational discharge of 5.6A, so he's well within the limit (depending on your definition of "well")

For the sake of conversation, I never recommend 18350's for use in mech-mod RBA's. But, if someone is willing to sit for two hours and learn all about his/her devices' ins and outs- from the creator of the device itself- and still wants to do things his/her way, who am I to stop them? (yes, I watched the whole two hours too, btw)

With RBA's there's potential for more risk in every aspect of what we do and how we use them, as compared to conventional PV's. Everyone needs to ask themselves what they consider to be "safe enough".

Yup. I agree to all of that. I just think that with the recent proliferation of cheap RBAs, and the "collector" culture of mechanical mods, we need to remember that there are newcomers coming in every day who may not be aware of the possible hazards involved in pushing equipment to their limits. I am in a couple Facebook groups where there is a prevalent attitude among many is "Dude...you're not really getting the full effect unless you're building sub .8 ohm coils, and vaping at 20 watts. The clouds of vapor are amazing!" It's nuts, and it's dangerous, especially to some newcomer who doesn't know what he's doing.
 

j4mmin42

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Eventually, there will also probably be a prevalence of photos of people with singed hair holding charred-black mods...we would hope not, of course, but... ;)

All in due time. For now, yes, I will do my best to keep giving good advice. Occasionally, a bit of my personality and opinions may make its way through and contradict that "good advice", but I promise that it is never for my own amusement... If I tell someone to 'have at it', that's only because they had already heard the 'good advice' and chose to ignore it, or take just a part of it, etc. Basically, 'have at it' is my way of keeping the trololol'ing at bay. ;)
 

Rule62

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It's all good. I'm actually suprised we haven't seen a few of those pics already. I can remember, quite a while ago, seeing some pics of battery failures, way prior to the current RBA craze. I've actually seen a RC car battery pack go thermal. Pretty scary sight. Of course, the battery packs are lots bigger.
 

Whoopin

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Since you're using a DID, you can't work a dual coil with it, but you can work a twisted coil in it.

Try this: Wrap a 3/4 wrap with twisted coils using Kanthal 30AWG, and make a solid fat wick (about 50-60mm). I use this with a mech mod and it fires great man. Also, don't use the fill hole screw. Just leave it out so the juice wicks better.

I find that the flavor increases a lot, and with a 6mg juice, it fires great!
 
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