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OK, so do we want a traditional looking pipe made from scratch or do we want to turn an analog pipe into an e-pipe?
First off we should choose a battery, I vote for a 18350. They are small enough to fit comfortably, but not too small to only last a half an hour.
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First off we should choose a battery, I vote for a 18350. They are small enough to fit comfortably, but not too small to only last a half an hour.
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Personally, I'd say they're very similar, except you have a bit more control if you're making a pipe from scratch. I'm more interested in the actual modification. Like how to make the portion leading out of the bowl into an actual connector that you can use, how the wiring works, whether you have to make it a push-button system or if you could make it automatic, how to cap off the bowl properly, things like that. The specifics of the actual pipe are going to vary widely if whether you're modding a regular pipe or making your own, really. I've been looking around for a good "making your first mod" tutorial to do before jumping right into a pipe, but it'd be great to get these questions out of the way.
I have limited pics and processing power on me at the moment but here is a quick start:
My first pipe. Made in two halfs from rosewood. Custom made "needle and pins" type atty that fits inside the stem. The leaf switch did not work well and hoping to get better ideas from the masters out there.
Please add guys and gals!
My first pipe. Made in two halfs from rosewood. Custom made "needle and pins" type atty that fits inside the stem. The leaf switch did not work well and hoping to get better ideas from the masters out there.
Please add guys and gals!
Thanks for sharing! The "leaf" switch you mentioned, is that just a type of switch you'd use to trigger the battery? Sorry if that's a dumb question, still trying to get a feel for the terminology of these things, I haven't done a great deal with the hardware side of electronics.
Slopes, you please explain the leaf switch. You have a nice diagram and pic. Asdaq also had some good advice using oil with this type switch.
It really just acts as a direct circuit breaker. The electronic boffins must please explain how to combine this with a mosfet. I don't know how too yet.
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The biggest concern for me regarding E pipes is what atomizer I'm going to throw on it. It's probably why I never shelled out for an expensive pre fabbed one. My thought is, if its going to look like a pipe, I want it to feel and look like a pipe after I throw an atty onto it. Not like a pipe with an X, Y, Z screwed onto it.
The pics of beautiful pre fabbed e pipes I've seen always seem to leave me wanting when I note the wonky stainless steel mess that's screwed into them
So I like what you've done here, looks nice and streamlined. I guess the two options are to have an integrated atomizer that's hidden by the stem, or something removable via some kind of connector (510 or other) that can still be entirely covered by a stem. I really like RBAs, I've wondered if one could set something up like an igo-s, era or similar, and have a stem that's wide enough at the base to hide it. Or maybe a two stem system (one part over the atty, another to go in alla drip tip but still look flush with the pipe)
The pics of beautiful pre fabbed e pipes I've seen always seem to leave me wanting when I note the wonky stainless steel mess that's screwed into them
So I like what you've done here, looks nice and streamlined. I guess the two options are to have an integrated atomizer that's hidden by the stem, or something removable via some kind of connector (510 or other) that can still be entirely covered by a stem. I really like RBAs, I've wondered if one could set something up like an igo-s, era or similar, and have a stem that's wide enough at the base to hide it. Or maybe a two stem system (one part over the atty, another to go in alla drip tip but still look flush with the pipe)
Ok I'm ready to start
How about some general dimensions and wall thickness.
Like Cyrus the atomizer is my biggest dilemma at this point. Right now I'm thinking interchange atty concealed in the stem.
Where are some good places to get curved pipe tips?
I'm thinking about trying to use a DNA20 in my build. Below is kind of what I'm thinking.
How about some general dimensions and wall thickness.
Like Cyrus the atomizer is my biggest dilemma at this point. Right now I'm thinking interchange atty concealed in the stem.
Where are some good places to get curved pipe tips?
I'm thinking about trying to use a DNA20 in my build. Below is kind of what I'm thinking.
I love it bap! Are you going to be working with a wood lathe?
I was thinking something if something the diameter of an AGA S could fit into the receiver and then in turn be covered somehow it would be really sweet. That maybe asking too much in terms of dimensions. Maybe asking too much also because that POS never vaped well for me lol. Or I should say, wicked well. As a dripper its a monster. I attributed it to poor wicking due to the small wick hole, but maybe if your vaping at pipe angle all the time ....hmm
As far as where to get curved stems I don't know, but there must be an entire pipe smoking culture replete with internet shops around the webz I guess?
I was thinking something if something the diameter of an AGA S could fit into the receiver and then in turn be covered somehow it would be really sweet. That maybe asking too much in terms of dimensions. Maybe asking too much also because that POS never vaped well for me lol. Or I should say, wicked well. As a dripper its a monster. I attributed it to poor wicking due to the small wick hole, but maybe if your vaping at pipe angle all the time ....hmm
As far as where to get curved stems I don't know, but there must be an entire pipe smoking culture replete with internet shops around the webz I guess?
No turning back now 
I'm thinking the next step is to drill the holes for the bowl and the stem. I left the stem fairly large, thinking it could house and conceal a wide variety of standard atty's. But I guess I need to decide on that 100% before I drill the stem out.
I'm thinking the next step is to drill the holes for the bowl and the stem. I left the stem fairly large, thinking it could house and conceal a wide variety of standard atty's. But I guess I need to decide on that 100% before I drill the stem out.
I have a little metal late that I have turned some wood on, but besides metal parts for connections and etc I dont think it would help much for the pipe itself. Lots of sanding is what I'm thinking for the pipe itself.
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duckie.....
Walker Briar Works "Forever Stems" > E-Vape Stems.....He will bend the stem for you too.
duckie.....
Bap, that looks good!
A lathe has very little work to do when making a pipe I suspect.
I also mostly used a dremel and sandpaper.
A lathe has very little work to do when making a pipe I suspect.
I also mostly used a dremel and sandpaper.
Hey bap, that is coming right along. I like the setup in pic#2 a bit better as the wall looks like it will be thin with the larger atty on the right side of the stem. Also it looks like that atty tank (sorry I don't recognize which it actually is) is held together better that you could unscrew the atty to remove it without some other section coming apart and staying in the pipe, which can be an issue with recessed atties.
Aesthetically, the three models of analog pipes all have the bowl taller than the stem, so maybe use the line that you cut for the bowl and not the pencil line below it? For the stem, I see you have three lines, but maybe keep it close to where it is now? The stem has to support the leverage of the mouthpiece too....
Also, what are your thoughts for the screen cradle and battery contacts? Of course the switch is important too, I suppose the DNA circuit will not allow the epipe magnetic switch, which are handy for mechanicals.
Great that you have an actual pipe being made for us in here, it would be difficult otherwise. Keep up the good work!
Aesthetically, the three models of analog pipes all have the bowl taller than the stem, so maybe use the line that you cut for the bowl and not the pencil line below it? For the stem, I see you have three lines, but maybe keep it close to where it is now? The stem has to support the leverage of the mouthpiece too....
Also, what are your thoughts for the screen cradle and battery contacts? Of course the switch is important too, I suppose the DNA circuit will not allow the epipe magnetic switch, which are handy for mechanicals.
Great that you have an actual pipe being made for us in here, it would be difficult otherwise. Keep up the good work!
asdaq, tell me more about the epipe magnetic switch. The DNA is quite versatile for switch requirements, very little current goes through the switch so almost anything will work.
The atty in pic 3 is a terminator oddy clone (without the mouth piece). The pic angles throw everything off a little, the terminator is 23mm OD and the aga is 22mm OD. But you make a good point about the atty coming apart inside the pipe.
On the screen mounting I was thinking flush mounting a rectangular piece of glass with the screen behind it. I would like to use a piece of black acrylic that I have as I think it would blend into the color of the wood better, but I think CA will react with the acrylic.
On the battery contacts I was thinking along the lines of what l3oertjie did, spring plate in the bottom and brass threaded ring at the top.
I started shaping the pipe so all my pencil marks gone, its just up to my unartistic eyes and feel now
The atty in pic 3 is a terminator oddy clone (without the mouth piece). The pic angles throw everything off a little, the terminator is 23mm OD and the aga is 22mm OD. But you make a good point about the atty coming apart inside the pipe.
On the screen mounting I was thinking flush mounting a rectangular piece of glass with the screen behind it. I would like to use a piece of black acrylic that I have as I think it would blend into the color of the wood better, but I think CA will react with the acrylic.
On the battery contacts I was thinking along the lines of what l3oertjie did, spring plate in the bottom and brass threaded ring at the top.
I started shaping the pipe so all my pencil marks gone, its just up to my unartistic eyes and feel now
This switch: http://www.epipemods.com/pipe-supplies/v2-and-v2-5-single-battery-pipe-buttons.html
But I don't think it would work to connect and disconnect the power all the time.
The glue would work with the acrylic of it were cured before you mount the acrylic....
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But I don't think it would work to connect and disconnect the power all the time.
The glue would work with the acrylic of it were cured before you mount the acrylic....
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4
Oh that switch
....Yeah I'm familiar with that switch. That is a pretty simple solution for a mech pipe, but wouldn't work well for the DNA.I'm going to mock a couple different things up for the window. I was thinking it would look pretty slick with the window flushed up to the wood then a continuous seamless finish over top. But idk????
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