First off, I would like to say that I am new to rebuilding coils and I am still a newb to vaping (only have been vaping a little over a month). Thanks to the wonderful community of ECF, I have done quite a bit of research reading through threads such as http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/396220-kanger-protank-rebuild.html and http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html and I have been given quite a few tips from a few members as well which I appreciate and has been a huge help! The problem that I am having is what I assume is hot legs. Let me explain what materials I am using and what my process is.
The coils I am building are for a Kangertech Protank II mini. I have Kanthal A-1 resistance 32GA wire purchased from Lightening Vapes and I am using good old fashion cotton balls that has been boiled in distilled water.
Once my tanks and all of the components are cleaned and dried, I take a straight piece of Kanthal (no kinks) and torch it with a trusty Bic lighter. Afterwards, using a 1/16th drill bit, I wrap the Kanthal 5 times to create the coil and each wrap is as tight as possible. Once the bit is wrapped, I push the coils together to make sure the wrap and distance between each is even. When I am satisfied, I seat the coil in the base (or whatever it is called) keeping the coils wrapped around the bit. At this point I situate the legs. I center the coils as best as I can, apply tension to each leg, and assemble everything needed. When the atomizer is assembled, I clip the excess wire using nail clippers getting as close as possible to the pin/insulator as possible (after each step I constantly check the coil to make sure nothing has changed and is how I want it) and I remove the drill bit. Then I connect to my iTaste VV V3 to check the ohms which are 2.0 ohms pretty much consistently. Once I have confirmed the ohms, I test fire (same method as a dry burn) and each time the coil glows nice and evenly and I cannot detect any hot spots. At this point I thread the cotton through the coil and assemble into the tank.
I let the tank sit for a few minutes and prime before taking the initial pull. I adjust the volts to get to me desired taste taking a few pulls each time. Usually at this point, I notice the base of my MPT (beauty ring area) gets warm. I do not get a burnt taste and the vapor does not change in any way. It doesn't get hot, just warm enough for me to notice. I have noticed when rebuilding one of my builds, that is had slight singe marks on the rubber insulator where the wire was. Not significantly burned, but marked enough for me to think that I have a hot leg issue.
I have built a total of 10 coils and only 2 have not had any hot legs. I follow the same steps each time and I do not know what I am doing wrong. Is it possible that it is the type of Kanthal that I am using that is leading to this issue? Is there Kanthal that I can use to eliminate or reduce the possibility of hot legs? Any suggestions or tips y'all can pass on to me? If it means anything, my juice is typically either a 50/50 or 60/40 and I usually vape between 3.5-4.0 volts.
I appreciate the help as always!
The coils I am building are for a Kangertech Protank II mini. I have Kanthal A-1 resistance 32GA wire purchased from Lightening Vapes and I am using good old fashion cotton balls that has been boiled in distilled water.
Once my tanks and all of the components are cleaned and dried, I take a straight piece of Kanthal (no kinks) and torch it with a trusty Bic lighter. Afterwards, using a 1/16th drill bit, I wrap the Kanthal 5 times to create the coil and each wrap is as tight as possible. Once the bit is wrapped, I push the coils together to make sure the wrap and distance between each is even. When I am satisfied, I seat the coil in the base (or whatever it is called) keeping the coils wrapped around the bit. At this point I situate the legs. I center the coils as best as I can, apply tension to each leg, and assemble everything needed. When the atomizer is assembled, I clip the excess wire using nail clippers getting as close as possible to the pin/insulator as possible (after each step I constantly check the coil to make sure nothing has changed and is how I want it) and I remove the drill bit. Then I connect to my iTaste VV V3 to check the ohms which are 2.0 ohms pretty much consistently. Once I have confirmed the ohms, I test fire (same method as a dry burn) and each time the coil glows nice and evenly and I cannot detect any hot spots. At this point I thread the cotton through the coil and assemble into the tank.
I let the tank sit for a few minutes and prime before taking the initial pull. I adjust the volts to get to me desired taste taking a few pulls each time. Usually at this point, I notice the base of my MPT (beauty ring area) gets warm. I do not get a burnt taste and the vapor does not change in any way. It doesn't get hot, just warm enough for me to notice. I have noticed when rebuilding one of my builds, that is had slight singe marks on the rubber insulator where the wire was. Not significantly burned, but marked enough for me to think that I have a hot leg issue.
I have built a total of 10 coils and only 2 have not had any hot legs. I follow the same steps each time and I do not know what I am doing wrong. Is it possible that it is the type of Kanthal that I am using that is leading to this issue? Is there Kanthal that I can use to eliminate or reduce the possibility of hot legs? Any suggestions or tips y'all can pass on to me? If it means anything, my juice is typically either a 50/50 or 60/40 and I usually vape between 3.5-4.0 volts.
I appreciate the help as always!
, doing this usually eliminates it by providing more space between the coil and termination point.
