Huge voltage drop on KFL+ with coil. 4.1v dropped to 0.3v

[..V..]

Hi guys

Here is the mystery. Apologies if I'm not explaining the electrical explanation properly.

Measured battery = 4.1v
Measured volt on mod (atmizoo Guppy) = 4.1v
Measured volt from mod to kfl+ without coil = 4.1v

Built a 1.3ohm coil on 28awg wire.

Measured volt from mod to kfl+ with 1.3ohm coil = 0.3v

The setup didn't fire with that coil.

Using the same wire previously, it fired ok for awhile. As days goes by, "awhile" means from a few hours to a few minutes to a few vape and now not firing at all.

Another mystery, no matter if I wrap 6, 7, 8 or 9 wraps, the reading on kfl+ is always 2.1ohm on my multimeter. Minus 0.9ohm internal resistance, that is about 1.2ohm.

Measured my rsst tank using the same multimeter gives a reading of 3.4ohm. So I guessed the multimeter is working alright.

I have cleaned the mod inside out and the kfl+, but it seems the problem is with the wire.

Could it be that my wire is crap and not actually 28awg?

Why is the wire built with 6, 7, 8 or 9 wraps keep showing the same 2.1ohm? (It was like this previously too, but it did fire so I didn't think too much about it then)

Below is a picture of my coil, could it be shorted?



==================================

SOLVED

Insulator deformed and caused shorting.

I managed to get it firing again by replacing the top insulator with a DIY piece cut from old credit card plastic.

Only temporary because the insulator by Svoemesto is sold out virtually everywhere and a couple of those that have it are either too expensive or won't ship to my country.

I used credit card because it is the same thickness as the insulator.

Just cut it as close to the shape of the insulator.

Make it better by using sandpaper on the edges.

For the hole, I mark the spot and puncture the centre of the circle first with a safety pin.

Then manual hand drill with a phillip precision screwdriver. Size No. 0 first, then I realized that the hole is not big enough and No. 1 did the job.

 

[epcii]

Even if your wire was not 28awg, it should still show various resistance readings. It sounds more like you have a short somewhere. Your pic actually looks like your pos and neg posts are touching at the top of the pos block.

 

[CheetahAce]

Were you adjusting the center pin? When you do that it moves one of the top sections of the deck around which usually results in 0 ohms or a short. Try moving that top piece around (the smaller one that one of the screws is connected to)

 

[..V..]

Thank you guys for the quick reply

Even if your wire was not 28awg, it should still show various resistance readings. It sounds more like you have a short somewhere. Your pic actually looks like your pos and neg posts are touching at the top of the pos block.

The left and right block?

The picture was taken at an angle so it looks like it is touching, but there is a clear channel between them.

Were you adjusting the center pin? When you do that it moves one of the top sections of the deck around which usually results in 0 ohms or a short. Try moving that top piece around (the smaller one that one of the screws is connected to)

Yes, the centre pin was adjusted.

The top block somehow got shifted and I did adjust the centre pin to tighten it back.

Then the problem started and I did took out the centre pin to clean it inside hoping to solve the problem.

Will try adjusting that block.

 

[..V..]

Were you adjusting the center pin? When you do that it moves one of the top sections of the deck around which usually results in 0 ohms or a short. Try moving that top piece around (the smaller one that one of the screws is connected to)

No luck.

I did check the ohm at the top 2 screws, instead of at the bottom thread and contact pin, it reads 2.2ohm.

So, the top deck may still be shorted?

 

[Tommy Aces]

It's difficult to tell just from the photo, but it appears that there is some scortching-like discoloration on the pieces to your top deck. It also looks like the insulator may have undergone some melting.

Everything about your issue screams "short" and "melted insulator" to me, but that's just judging by your description and 1 picutre.

Try taking out the center pin and remove the piece from the top deck so you can better inspect your insulator.

 

[..V..]

It's difficult to tell just from the photo, but it appears that there is some scortching-like discoloration on the pieces to your top deck. It also looks like the insulator may have undergone some melting.

Everything about your issue screams "short" and "melted insulator" to me, but that's just judging by your description and 1 picutre.

Try taking out the center pin and remove the piece from the top deck so you can better inspect your insulator.

Hi Tommy

This is a pic of my insulators. 2 pieces, top and bottom views.

Looks ok to me, but what do I know, hehe

There was discoloration when I first took it out but I managed to clean it.

 

[CheetahAce]

Do you have another mod to test it on? Are you sure the center pin is making good contact on the battery?

 

[suspectK]

Chdck resistance from 510 contact on atomizer and mod to positive contact.

 

[..V..]

Do you have another mod to test it on? Are you sure the center pin is making good contact on the battery?

I got another tank but unfortunately not another mod.

I did test the voltage when mod and kayfun is connected and fired, and it closed the loop well.

4.1v running through them.

I now suspect that the insulator, maybe not visibly melted, it is slightly deformed and that could also be a problem.

Will order an insulator kit.

Chdck resistance from 510 contact on atomizer and mod to positive contact.

Sorry, I'm not sure what that exactly mean.

I did checked the resistance on the kayfun positive contact and thread, it gave me 2.1ohm.

 

[suspectK]

Continuity check of your device/simple resistance check of the circuit for the mod to atomizer and atomizer itself, not the coil. That will help you troubleshoot more efficiently.

 

[..V..]

Continuity check of your device/simple resistance check of the circuit for the mod to atomizer and atomizer itself, not the coil. That will help you troubleshoot more efficiently.

I hope I got this right

resistance within kayfun, positive post to top screw above insulator = 0.9-1ohm

resistance from bottom of mod to top (negative?) kayfun screw = 1.0-1.1ohm

 

[..V..]

If anyone is interested, I managed to get it firing again by replacing the top insulator with a DIY piece cut from old credit card plastic.

Only temporary because the insulator by Svoemesto is sold out virtually everywhere and a couple of those that have it are either too expensive or won't ship to my country.

 

[epcii]

Way to improvise. How about a pic?

 

[..V..]

Way to improvise. How about a pic?

I already assembled it and my fingers are swollen and numb from days of disassembly, assembly, coiling and punching the wall

I used credit card because it is the same thickness as the insulator.

Just cut it as close to the shape of the insulator.

Make it better by using sandpaper on the edges.

For the hole, I mark the spot and puncture the centre of the circle first with a safety pin.

Then manual hand drill with a phillip precision screwdriver. Size No. 0 first, then I realized that the hole is not big enough and No. 1 did the job.

 

[..V..]

Way to improvise. How about a pic?

Ok, finally need to clean and disassemble the kfl.

Below is the pic.

The white DIY is the improved version because I suspect that the ink on the card was melting a bit.

Just sandpaper on both face of the insulator to remove the printing.

 

[epcii]

Looks awesome. Nice job! Looks like you even got the positive block flush with the negative.

 

[..V..]

Thanks, epcii

I suspect that the alignment of the centre post is the one causing the short, once you loosen it up.

Need to shorten the new diy with sandpaper because the diy's hole was pulling the centre post towards the inner side of the tunnel.

Thank you all for the assistance... I really learned a lot from this experience!