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HV Atomizers for 510

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bornagainst

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Nhaler is another site for HV atties.

Whenever I go to his site, I always end up with a Woody in my shopping cart.

I have to leave right away or I will hit the submit button. I want one of those but I don't want to spend the cash right away.

:D
 

Dkrom68

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Dont know about a Woody in the cart but I do know about a Woody LOL
Whenever I go to his site, I always end up with a Woody in my shopping cart.

I have to leave right away or I will hit the submit button. I want one of those but I don't want to spend the cash right away.

:D
 

Switched

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Whenever I go to his site, I always end up with a Woody in my shopping cart.

I have to leave right away or I will hit the submit button. I want one of those but I don't want to spend the cash right away.

:D
Play with yourself while shopping, you won't have to worry about putting a "woody" in your cart, as you will already have one ;) no need for two, you can only use one at a time :lol::lol:

Besides that is an extremely expensive box mod if you ask me, although it is a piece of art.
 

bornagainst

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Play with yourself while shopping, you won't have to worry about putting a "woody" in your cart, as you will already have one ;) no need for two, you can only use one at a time :lol::lol:

Besides that is an extremely expensive box mod if you ask me, although it is a piece of art.

Yeah, the bartleby works amazingly well and I don't need another one.
 

teabagger

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I dont see the appeal of HV atty. its increased resistance that lowers voltage, that defeats the purpose. If you are using 2 cr123a, atteries for you voltage source, they wont even though they might look like 6+ volts they vape under load around 5.5 to 6, due to internal resistance(and i have verified this all for myself with my fluke and mods). Sorry if I am off the mark but i was curious if there is something i am missing towards the HV atty situation.
 

smokum

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I'm having a hard time agreeing with that only because if you view it while using say a single 3.7v battery device the voltage (by yours, and the general mod population's calculations) would be far too low to enjoy.

The only thing I could see this affecting is the wattage the atomizer is capable of hense having more or less heat under load.

I appologize, and don't mean to offend here, its just that I should know this crap being an electrician out of action due to injuries 3 years ago (and the main ongoing one a brain injury that has affected my memory and reasoning), and its really ticking me off not figuring out how to "properly" calculate what I need to do aside from replacing the resistor in my GLV to lower the voltage/harshness to my liking of 4-4.2 vots nominal.

My 2 battery 3.6 16340's on a full charge read 8.4v "feeding" the 510 atty, and its not pleasant "to ME" at this range. I want to reduce it and take advantage of the combines mAh for longer use at a temp I enjoy with my own juices.

VapeOn,
Greg
 
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Switched

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I dont see the appeal of HV atty. its increased resistance that lowers voltage, that defeats the purpose. If you are using 2 cr123a, atteries for you voltage source, they wont even though they might look like 6+ volts they vape under load around 5.5 to 6, due to internal resistance(and i have verified this all for myself with my fluke and mods). Sorry if I am off the mark but i was curious if there is something i am missing towards the HV atty situation.

My understanding of it is that they are used on fresh batteries, which when initially inserted have the capacity of producing 8.4 Volts and run at 7 - 7.4V. Depending on the life of the battery etc... Folks were indeed popping attys left, right and centre, when using standard attys on an HV device. Standard attys where simply not meant for that purpose.

On the other hand, LS2s 3 - 3.5 Ohms perform remarkably well on a 5V device.

I'm having a hard time agreeing with that only because if you view it while using say a single 3.7v battery device the voltage (by yours, and the general mod population's calculations) would be far too low to enjoy.

The only thing I could see this affecting is the wattage the atomizer is capable of hense having more or less heat under load.

I appologize, and don't mean to offend here, its just that I should know this crap being an electrician out of action due to injuries 3 years ago (and the main ongoing one a brain injury that has affected my memory and reasoning), and its really ticking me off not figuring out how to "properly" calculate what I need to do aside from replacing the resistor in my GLV to lower the voltage/harshness to my liking of 4-4.2 vots nominal.

My 2 battery 3.6 16340's on a full charge read 8.4v "feeding" the 510 atty, and its not pleasant "to ME" at this range. I want to reduce it and take advantage of the combines mAh for longer use at a temp I enjoy with my own juices.

VapeOn,
Greg
It wasn't clear what type of atty you were using I presume it is a HV atty, you might want to try an 801 when you start off with fresh batteries.

One of the characteristics of the 801 (which I don't like at 3.7V) is it runs cooler. However many use them in HV applications for that exact reason. Many vapers do not and/or can't be bothered with the math. They just know what works and what doesn't. Now on a GLV the atty length may not suit you, but it wouldn't be as harsh as the 510.

Batteries in series do not combine mAh perse. In series doubles the voltage same mAh available. In parallel same voltage but doubles the mAh available, hence a longer battery life.
 

smokum

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Sorry..... its a standard 510 atty (meaning unadvertised as HV or otherwise), and I have both Joye & SLB.

The SLB's seem to work better at the higher voltage but are quite mild on my 3.7v devices in comparison go the Joye. I've measured a cold resistance of the SLB at 2.2 ohm but have not measured the Joye's.

I use the ZFM cart mod so my atty's are "always" fed, and its worth mentioning that while I get the burnt atty taste on the GLV, I'll switch it over to the Protege or a standard 510 battery, take a few hauls to clear the burnt taste, and then it works without giving that bad taste again but on the 3.7-4.2v devices.

My GLV is shelved for now until I can find the time and patience to figure this out properly to produce an atty feed of 4-4.2v nominal as I truly enjoy using the GLV for its size and button placement.

And I'll have to dig through my storage to find my course books when I can find a moment to refresh and confirm your statement about mAh in relation to series and parallel circuits.

I also want to maintain the use of 510 atty's to keep my collection consistant and use my current "on hand" spares supplies.

I do have 801 and 901's but do not care for them "myself" on any of the devices I own due to the lack of "warmth" that the 510's give my vapour and the cosmetics of thier use.

VapeOn,
Greg
 

Switched

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I hear ya Greg!

BTW you owe me one ;) for digging in my closet.

Batteries in Series or Parallel

The low resistance atty that has recently hit the scene is a 1.5 Ohm atty. Currently only sold at Nhaler.

The roiginal JoyE or stock atty has a resistance of 2 - 2.5 Ohms, normally around 2.2 - 2.3 when new.

The clones or SLBs or LS2s whatever are 3 - 3.5 Ohm attys and have been used successfully on 6V devices. When one stacks 3.7V batts for a really HV device this is when problems occur. Because when fresh, a 3.7V batts is actualyl 4.2V off the charger.

Then there are HV attys available from Ikenvape (one place) at 3.5 Ohms for vaping at 3.7 - 6V. Atomizers , those are a waste of money IMO becasue at those volts the LS2s, 801s and BE112s perform just as well for a fraction of the cost.

The XHV atty rated at 5.2 Ohms also available at Ikenvape, is supposed to be the solution for stacked cr123s at 3.7V which as stated come off the charger at 4.2V. This is supposed to be the cure for all the complaints from vapers stacking batts.
 
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