Hybrid Mod body heating issue

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iamsandman

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Feb 2, 2016
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I've been using an Apollo mod clone with a Mephisto v1 atty for 2 days now with a .25 ohm dual coil build and Samsung 25r battery.

I chain vape a lot since I practice doing some O-rings from time to time and I've been noticing that my mod is getting really hot. Is this normal and is there a way I can lower the heat?

I hope you guys can help. Thank you.

(sorry english is not my first language)
 

zoiDman

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I've been using an Apollo mod clone with a Mephisto v1 atty for 2 days now with a .25 ohm dual coil build and Samsung 25r battery.

I chain vape a lot since I practice doing some O-rings from time to time and I've been noticing that my mod is getting really hot. Is this normal and is there a way I can lower the heat?

I hope you guys can help. Thank you.

(sorry english is not my first language)

Hi iamsandman.

Is your Mod getting Hot because your Battery is Getting Hot (a Very Bad Sign)? Because if it is your Battery is Getting Hot, you should Stop using it Immediately.

Or is your Atty getting Hot causing you Mod to get Hot? If it is, have you Tried Building at Higher Ohms?
 
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iamsandman

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Feb 2, 2016
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Hi iamsandman.

Is your Mod getting Hot because your Battery is Getting Hot (a Very Bad Sign)? Because if it is your Battery is Getting Hot, you should Stop using it Immediately.

Or is your Atty getting Hot causing you Mod to get Hot? If it is, have you Tried Building at Higher Ohms?

I've check and the battery is not hot but the atty and mod tends to get really hot. Thank you I will try that, can you give me a good range to what ohms I should use?

Moved you to Mech Mods from Ask The Veterans as you need answers NOW and not in several days.

Thank you I'm sorry if I've caused any inconvenience.
 

milandjikic

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Chain vaping with so low build on a single battery will heat up battery and the mod. If you are practicing blowing rings, you should go for parallel dual 18650 box. That resistance is close to battery current rating, so better don't challenge your fortune.
When you say Hybrid mod, that means you have mod and the atty made for mod that is not 510 connection. Since the RDA is with 510 connection, that means you are using something that can cause a fire in no time. Always double check the insulation on that hybrid plate for the mod, and absolutely make sure that positive pin on the atty is protruding enough to make a solid connection between the positive post on battery and pin itself only.
 

zoiDman

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I've check and the battery is not hot but the atty and mod tends to get really hot. Thank you I will try that, can you give me a good range to what ohms I should use?

I would try Building in the .4 ~ .55 Ohm range and see how it goes.

And as milandjikic mentioned, make sure that the 510 Pin on any Atty that you use is sticking out enough so that the 510 threads Can Not make contact with the Battery.

510-connection-pin-550x329.jpg
 
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iamsandman

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Feb 2, 2016
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Chain vaping with so low build on a single battery will heat up battery and the mod. If you are practicing blowing rings, you should go for parallel dual 18650 box. That resistance is close to battery current rating, so better don't challenge your fortune.
When you say Hybrid mod, that means you have mod and the atty made for mod that is not 510 connection. Since the RDA is with 510 connection, that means you are using something that can cause a fire in no time. Always double check the insulation on that hybrid plate for the mod, and absolutely make sure that positive pin on the atty is protruding enough to make a solid connection between the positive post on battery and pin itself only.

I see, would a heatsink work to extend the connection of the atty to the mod? What RDA would you recommend for my mod? Thank you
 

iamsandman

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Feb 2, 2016
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I would try Building in the .4 ~ .55 Ohm range and see how it goes.

And as milandjikic mentioned, make sure that the 510 Pin on any Atty that you use is sticking out enough so that the 510 threads Can Not make contact with the Battery.

510-connection-pin-550x329.jpg

I'll be doing that build then thank you. Yes I exended my 510 pin and I often check my battery for venting.
 

milandjikic

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Putting a heatsink you will increase resistance for a bit, but as for cooling there is no help really. I'm a chain vaper, but i vape at around 1.0 Ohm point, and after hitting it for a 6 or 7 times in a row, everything gets hot, especially for us Genny fans. Heatsink will let it help cool off a bit faster, but it's not going to prevent heating up.
 

iamsandman

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Feb 2, 2016
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Putting a heatsink you will increase resistance for a bit, but as for cooling there is no help really. I'm a chain vaper, but i vape at around 1.0 Ohm point, and after hitting it for a 6 or 7 times in a row, everything gets hot, especially for us Genny fans. Heatsink will let it help cool off a bit faster, but it's not going to prevent heating up.

That's very enlightning. So i guess the only thing I can do is to decease the amount of consecutive vaping and let my rda and mod cool off before vaping again, correct?
 

edyle

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That's very enlightning. So i guess the only thing I can do is to decease the amount of consecutive vaping and let my rda and mod cool off before vaping again, correct?

If you want to vape at high wattage what you can do is get a dual or triple battery mod instead of trying to draw high power from a single battery.

I strongly recommend against using that kind of mod being called a 'hybrid' which has no centerpin.
On the left of this post you will see a truehybrid; no 510 threading, and no chance of accidentally shorting out on the top of the battery.
 
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mhertz

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If it's a functioning 25r that's not overly old or abused, and you've checked that it doesn't get hot, then as said, it's the atty warming the mod.

Running a single cell tube mech at 0.25ohm with a 20a cdr cell, isn't an issue with safety, but is pushing the cell harder, so it will last less long. It is however right at the limit though, for safe operation, so no lower.

Other dangers like knowing your gear, with e.g. pinless-510 mods etc, is of course mandatory, no matter which build used...
 

Nikea Tiber

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A 510 heatsink such as the Kepler or the vulcanizer will help reduce heat transfer from a hot atomizer to the body of a mod, especially with pinless topcap devices.
Provided it is a high-quality part the VD/resistance is negligible.
I run one on my 4Nine as well as on my prax1s, they help quite a bit, my typical builds are between .2 and .25 ohm, on smaller atomizers like the derringer.
 

iamsandman

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Feb 2, 2016
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If you want to vape at high wattage what you can do is get a dual or triple battery mod instead of trying to draw high power from a single battery.

I strongly recommend against using that kind of mod being called a 'hybrid' which has no centerpin.
On the left of this post you will see a truehybrid; no 510 threading, and no chance of accidentally shorting out on the top of the battery.

I'll try to find those thank you.

If it's a functioning 25r that's not overly old or abused, and you've checked that it doesn't get hot, then as said, it's the atty warming the mod.

Running a single cell tube mech at 0.25ohm with a 20a cdr cell, isn't an issue with safety, but is pushing the cell harder, so it will last less long. It is however right at the limit though, for safe operation, so no lower.

Other dangers like knowing your gear, with e.g. pinless-510 mods etc, is of course mandatory, no matter which build used...

thank you that's really informative.

A 510 heatsink such as the Kepler or the vulcanizer will help reduce heat transfer from a hot atomizer to the body of a mod, especially with pinless topcap devices.
Provided it is a high-quality part the VD/resistance is negligible.
I run one on my 4Nine as well as on my prax1s, they help quite a bit, my typical builds are between .2 and .25 ohm, on smaller atomizers like the derringer.

I'll check on those heatsinks thank you.
 

Baditude

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zoiDman

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Thank's for supplying the above pic. I've archived it for my collection and added it to my A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod.

Something else that would be Good to Mention is the Difference between a "Hard" 510 Pin and a "Floating" 510 Pin on an Atomizer.

With a Hard 510 Pin, the center pin in the Atomizer Can Not Move. So the amount that the 510 Pin Extends out beyond the 510 Threads Never Changes. This is a Good Thing.

With a Floating 510 Pin, the 510 Pin is being pushed out by the Coil Head or RBA Section in the Atomizer. So if the Coil Head or RBA Section is not Screwed Down Completely, or if there is any Variance in the Length of the Coil Head or RBA Section, it can cause the 510 Pin to Not Extend the full amount from 510 Threads of the Atomizer. This could be a Very Bad Thing.

Last thing. Some Atomizers have Adjustable 510 Pins. This is a Very Nice Feature. But can also be a Serious Problem for someone using a Faux Hybrid Connection if the 510 Pin on the Atomizer works itself back from screwing and Unscrewing the Atomizer On/Off. If someone is using an Atomizer with an Adjustable 510 Pin, the Length that it Extends from the 510 Threads should be Check EVERY Time that the Atomizer is Screwed onto a Faux Hybrid Connection.

I Know that you Know all this already Bad. But I thought it would be Good to Post It for Anyone who is Reading this Thread who might Not have Thought of these things before.
 
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