I don't want to waste my money

[Zealous]

That's what I'm trying to figure out. Why go away from the internal battery. I see that there is IMO maybe:
65% battery/mech mods ( stingray, IPV, sigalei, sx yihi, dna, etc.)
compared to 35% internal battery mods (iStick, MVP, etc)

I want to blow bigger clouds (than in my nautilus Minis) and get better flavor, longer batt, more efficient and built-to-last mod.

I know that a big part of this is getting an Rba or better tank system

I should also state that I use a 50/50 pg/vg blend. 12ml.

You don't need to move to a replaceable battery mod to do any of the things you're interested in.

The main reasons people like to use replaceable battery devices are a) because of longevity (in the case of mechs which have no circuitry to fail) and b) to have many extra batteries on hand and not have to wait for the device to charge in order to use it (not a huge problem with passthrough devices but some find using devices while plugged in annoying)

With mechanicals, there is no circuitry to fail so a good one can last years with simple user maintenance. But they also don't have any safeguards for protection from shorts, etc. You must learn about battery safety, ohms law, etc., in order to use a mechanical device safely.

With a regulated replaceable battery mod there is safety protection. Your device won't work or will give a warning if the coil isn't good. But there is probably a limit on how low you can build your coil, although with the newer devices that limit is much lower than it used to be. And there is a chance that the circuitry could fail but a good device should last a while. You can control the wattage &/or voltage without having to change coil resistance, which is a nice thing.

Personally, I would probably not bother paying for a changeable battery regulated mod since there are plenty of good devices with large internal batteries. I would pay for a good mechanical mod though just for longevity. It's nice to have a device I know will work years from now.

Just some things to think about.

 

[ElevenEleven]

That's what I'm trying to figure out. Why go away from the internal battery. I see that there is IMO maybe:
65% battery/mech mods ( stingray, IPV, sigalei, sx yihi, dna, etc.)
compared to 35% internal battery mods (iStick, MVP, etc)

I want to blow bigger clouds (than in my Nautilus Minis) and get better flavor, longer batt, more efficient and built-to-last mod.

I know that a big part of this is getting an Rba or better tank system

I should also state that I use a 50/50 pg/vg blend. 12ml.

If the internal battery dies then you'll want to have a back up device so you can vape while its charging. With a device that has replaceable batteries you can just throw those on a charger and pop in fresh ones.

If the internal battery of a device dies, and I mean completely unusable, the device is useless. An iStick may last a year or two before the battery/batteries can no longer hold a charge. In the long run its cheaper to have a device with replaceable batteries. That way, after 300-500 charge cycles, you can drop $7-12 on a new batt versus the price of a new device.

 

[ElevenEleven]

Compared to the regulated mods available today? None to speak of.

Mechs are more reliable. Plus, any regulated device is out of date as soon as it hits the market.

 

[EBates]

There are three downsides to mech mods:
Since there is no internal circuitry there are no safety features other than some having a lock for the fire button.
Since there is no internal circuitry there is nothing to prevent over discharging your battery and making the battery unrecoverable.
Since there is no internal circuitry as the battery discharges the vape changes. The only control you have over your vape quality is through your build (wick and coil) and your battery charge.

 

[comeonhitme]

after reading these posts I feel like my next purchase should be geared more towards an RBA. This would be something new to me as I have yet to dive into rebuildables.

I figure I have time to contemplate what device to buy and think it would be wiser to start rebuilding and save money.

Has anyone checked out sxmxdrifters videos? He hss listed some cost efficient websites to buy wire and other supplies for a newbie

 

[comeonhitme]

Any suggestions on RBA's. I have looked and researched quite a bit but curious what is 'in' right now. Best bang for your buck that isn't gonna break the bank.

If I'm correct, I would need:
An Rba
Kanthol wire
cotton
Tools: pliers, screwdriver, tweezers, scissors, etc
Ohm reader

Other concerns:
Authentic or clone
Kanthol or nichrome
What gauge wire

So many options it's truly overwhelming

 

[Libbydude]

Any suggestions on RBA's. I have looked and researched quite a bit but curious what is 'in' right now. Best bang for your buck that isn't gonna break the bank.

If I'm correct, I would need:
An Rba
Kanthol wire
cotton
Tools: pliers, screwdriver, tweezers, scissors, etc
Ohm reader

Other concerns:
Authentic or clone
Kanthol or nichrome
What gauge wire

So many options it's truly overwhelming

You will need all those things. LOL. Check out the RDA sub forum in the rebuildable atomizer section for suggestions. This thread could become many pages long with everybody suggesting their favorite atty at the moment! I'll just plug my preference in right here. Go derringer!
Clone or authentic is up to you and your budget. I personally try to stay away from devices on which the original manufacturers logo or name is cloned as well.

For wire I would have 28 and 26 awg on hand. 26 awg is easier to work with to start but in my opinion, and for my uses, 28 works the best.
Do your research and most of all have fun! Preparing to vape has become just as enjoyable for me as vaping in general.

 

[Oberon75]

What are the benefits of a Mech Mod. Besides that they look cool as hell?

This. lol

Sent from my HTC One M8 Harman/Kardon edition

 

[Hitmetwice]

WHOA! THAT, is gonna be one kick ..... box mod, there!
45,000 mah should last what? 2-3 weeks between charges? Cheers.

 

[edyle]

What are the benefits of a Mech Mod. Besides that they look cool as hell?

A simple mech mod is good for a backup; same can be said for having a simple rda.

 

[edyle]

That's what I'm trying to figure out. Why go away from the internal battery. I see that there is IMO maybe:
65% battery/mech mods ( stingray, IPV, sigalei, sx yihi, dna, etc.)
compared to 35% internal battery mods (iStick, MVP, etc)

I want to blow bigger clouds (than in my Nautilus Minis) and get better flavor, longer batt, more efficient and built-to-last mod.

I know that a big part of this is getting an Rba or better tank system

I should also state that I use a 50/50 pg/vg blend. 12ml.

1: Why go away from the 'internal battery'.
Answer: because you want to waste money.
Fixed battery devices are good for new vapers.
Later on, if money is a major issue, it is more economical to use a replaceable battery device; while you are home, you can use your older batteries, but if you're going out for the day, you take your newer batteries.

2: You want to blow bigger clouds:
Bigger clouds = more power

 

[Hitmetwice]

Any suggestions on RBA's. I have looked and researched quite a bit but curious what is 'in' right now. Best bang for your buck that isn't gonna break the bank.

If I'm correct, I would need:
An Rba
Kanthol wire
cotton
Tools: pliers, screwdriver, tweezers, scissors, etc
Ohm reader

Other concerns:
Authentic or clone
Kanthol or nichrome
What gauge wire

So many options it's truly overwhelming

You may also add to that list a couple drill bits( 2mm.-2.5mm-3mm etc.) or equivalent
( ie. electronic screwdrivers) as well.

Perhaps even a torch to "condition" the wire,
some do pre-torch, some don't.

Also some plain/unflavoured PG or VG makes it easier to tell if something is "off"
when you're starting out. This way you won't be sifting through flavours trying to decide
if the new build is off or whether it's the juice (This is just my opinion) Cheers

 

[edyle]

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0...i-function-disassembling-and-repair-tools-kit

$36.56

Details:

•Ideal for rebuildable atomizers DIY
•Package list:
◦1*Authentic Sigelei kick module
◦1*Authentic Sigelei Kick module box
◦1*Stainless steel + ceramic tweezers
◦1*ST-11 Straight tweezers
◦1*2mm Phillips screwdriver
◦1*3-in-1 screwdriver
◦1*Packing tool
◦1*Scissors
◦1*Resistance tester
◦1*13E Diagonal cutting pliers
◦1*PU carrying bag
◦2*Cleaning brush
◦1*Vaping coil winding jig tool
◦1*Hex key wrench

comes with a siglelei kick module
ceramic tweezers
coil jig
ohmmeter
those teeny tiny scrubbing brushes to clean your old coil

this thing is great value for somebody just starting;

I wouldn't buy it cause I got *most* of whats there already; I don't need an ohmmeter - I've got regulated mods plus I got a few multimeters; I've got ceramic tweezers already on its way; just the cleaning brushes though - I could use some of those. oh and coil jig: I got a couple coil jigs on the way too.

 

[sonicbomb]

This. lol

Can you provide some more details on that image please?

 

[comeonhitme]

That Fastech rebuild kit looks mighty tempting. Is it quality though or super cheap supplies...?

I just bought some kanthol a-1 wire from Temco. 50 ft of both 26 gauge and 29 gauge. I also bought Koh Gen Do organic cotton 60 pads online. All products cost $24 including shipping (*free).

I got tired of waiting/researching so I decided to buy the 2 main must have products for rebuilds. That kit or something along those lines would be a complete rebuilding setup.

In regards to RBA/RTA/Tanks:

I am leaning towards getting the Kanger Subtank Mini. It just seems the most popular and might be good to start on for rebuilds. Have read alot of good things about it. If I can make a decision on what website to buy from I will buy it tonight.

Maybe I will start with the Sub Mini and Then look into authentic or even cloned attys. Some of the most popular names I recall seeing are Mutation X,Goblin, Magma, Derringer,and quite a few more. Any suggestions on these?

 

[Ou2mame]

My friend just bought a subtank mini, and I taught him how to build it. It's OK, but flavor wise my kayfun v4 is better. Also, the rba base is super small, not a lot of room to work with. I prefer the taifun or kayfun. It's a nice looking tank, but I can get both the ones I mentioned for the price he paid for that one.

 

[comeonhitme]

My friend just bought a subtank mini, and I taught him how to build it. It's OK, but flavor wise my kayfun v4 is better. Also, the rba base is super small, not a lot of room to work with. I prefer the taifun or kayfun. It's a nice looking tank, but I can get both the ones I mentioned for the price he paid for that one.

how do you compare an authentic kayfun 4 to a kanger subtank mini? the K4 is like 180.00$ and the Sub Mini is in the 30-40$ range. I dont want to buy a clone as my first ever sub ohm RTA/RBA

 

[Ou2mame]

I'm comparing a tobeco clone to the subtank mini. I got both the taifun and kayfun for 20 bucks each.

 

[dulltongue]

Best bang for the buck is the Vaporshark RDNA 40 and a SubTank mini. Found a "scratch and dent" small screen RDNA 40 on VaporShark's website for $149. No scratches or dents on my device (bought a sharkskin just in case it was) and the battery is user serviceable. Fires devices down to .1 ohm, has temp control to eliminate dry and burnt hits, pass-through for vaping while charging, zip high-speed charging (2 hrs from completely dead to full), wireless charging built in (charging pad sold separately), and 30MLs of house juice. You can use it as an ohm reader too. The Subtank cost $50 from a B&M vendor I like. Came with 2 prebuilt heads (1.2 & .5), a RTA with two .5 coils, ... cotton, black O-rings (if u didn't like red), spare screws, and the infamous blue screwdriver. And I'm not a long time vaper (only one year into it). Yeah, the rebuildable deck is kinda small compared to my Tugboat clone, but I am still able to rewick my coil easily, and it's nickel wire (which is softer than kanthal). All in all a pretty good setup for everyday all day vaping...

 

[edyle]

how do you compare an authentic kayfun 4 to a kanger subtank mini? the K4 is like 180.00$ and the Sub Mini is in the 30-40$ range. I dont want to buy a clone as my first ever sub ohm RTA/RBA

I'd suggest getting a clone for your first ever .........

After you get a few clones of various devices you will likely find yourself partial to one design or very annoying with one type of design.

For example you might find you dislike tanks that use a fill screw, and more particularly a bottom fill screw because that requires you have to unscrew the tank off the 510 thread connection in order to refill (interestingly the lemo doesn't have that problem because you leave the 510 threaded base connected and unscrew just above it).
Meanwhile there are many parts and options you can buy with kayfuns, it makes sense to buy the clone parts, and once you put together a setup that you like, you might as well order the svoemesto original at that point.