I hate spring loaded 510's!!!

[NealBJr]

Ok, this is the THIRD mod that has been ruined by the spring loaded 510.

The current trends all seem fine and nice, but they are all self destructive. Topfill designs all tend to leak just a little at the 510 connector. Some go through the airflow control and thus down to the 510 that way.. in either case, I regularly have to take off the mod to dry out the 510 connector. Because of this, some juice seeps through the 510 connector and into the electronics. This has happened with the Cloupor TC80, Cloupor mini, and Cuboid. Even though they are all fine mods, The TC 80 shorted, and simply stopped working, the cloupor mini 50 had a slight electrical charge and would continue to drain the battery, down to 1.5 volts thus forcing me to chuck them. The Cuboid had the juice seep through and muck up the connection, showing no battery or atomizer short...... In all cases, when I look at the electronics, they're all coated with a slight film of ejuice.

Now I am back to my epipe, my mechanicals, and my old sigeli 100 with the adjustable 510. I plan on opening up the cuboid and re soldering it. While I am there, is there any suggestions of a leak proof 510 connection that I could replace the defective one? I hate throwing away mods and batteries.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

I'd be more worries about what tank you're using... in all my tanks and RDAs, I've selddom had any leaking, at least none that would be so bad to run like this.

You need to close your airflow when refilling (if you don't have tanks with a liquid flow control), and if you're using screw-topfills, never fill all the way as you're applying pressure as you put the top on, at least for most tanks that I'm aware of having a leaking issue when refilling.

 

[NealBJr]

I'd be more worries about what tank you're using... in all my tanks and RDAs, I've selddom had any leaking, at least none that would be so bad to run like this.

You need to close your airflow when refilling (if you don't have tanks with a liquid flow control), and if you're using screw-topfills, never fill all the way as you're applying pressure as you put the top on, at least for most tanks that I'm aware of having a leaking issue when refilling.

It's not majorly leaking from the tanks, and it's just the design of the tanks. It's not leaking from the filling, or vaccuume leaks.. it's just standard leaks. almost any tank you get, the air has to go in somewhere. Unless you have a top airflow tank, some spitback will go down the air inlet, and eventually outside.. usually it goes between the airflow control, and that's how it gets to the 510. It's not much, but that capitulary action that works on wicking coils also helps the juice wick down to the 510, and still down the 510 center pin. I wouldn't say the tank is "leaking"... it can sit in my pocket all day and not one drop gets inside the coat. The atomizer can sit for days after being filled, but only gets moist when in use. It's why I'm looking into a top airflow system.. just to protect the 510 from getting moist.

When you said you haven't had any leaking, not that it would end up like this problem.. that is the minute leaking I've had... it doesn't ruin mods instantly.. it's something that works over months of use. I've had my cloupor since february, and just not it started acting up. I took it apart, and it had juice all over the electronics. Since there was no juice by the cover that protected the electronics, it HAD to come from the 510... It wasn't a huge amount either, just a small coating to get my fingers wet.

I know that juice isn't very conductive, but it is slightly. I've put a drop on a glass table and put the two leads in the drop.. it does conduct ever so slightly, but it's a real high resistance. I could imagine if there was a drop on the chip to connect the legs on the chip, it could cause havoc. I am tempted next mod I get, to spray the whole chip with some sort of truely non conductive spray to protect such things from happening. I would imagine it also happens AT the 510... in either case, just the design of the spring loaded 510 means juice WILL get to your electronics eventually.. unless you can disasemble the center pin and clean, which you can't.

I actually thing they should re-design the 510 and make it standard.. give a good 2mm gap between the positive and negative to allow for some sort of protection. I know hybrids have this, but they should do it for tanks.. maybe offer an adapter for 510's. make it a 22mm connection. Personally, I've had less troubles with the Vamo series that just used a piece of rubber to insulate the center pin.

So, back to my original question, is there a leak proof 510 to replace my current/new mods' 510?

 

[kbeam418]

It's not majorly leaking from the tanks, and it's just the design of the tanks. It's not leaking from the filling, or vaccuume leaks.. it's just standard leaks. almost any tank you get, the air has to go in somewhere. Unless you have a top airflow tank, some spitback will go down the air inlet, and eventually outside.. usually it goes between the airflow control, and that's how it gets to the 510. It's not much, but that capitulary action that works on wicking coils also helps the juice wick down to the 510, and still down the 510 center pin. I wouldn't say the tank is "leaking"... it can sit in my pocket all day and not one drop gets inside the coat. The atomizer can sit for days after being filled, but only gets moist when in use. It's why I'm looking into a top airflow system.. just to protect the 510 from getting moist.

When you said you haven't had any leaking, not that it would end up like this problem.. that is the minute leaking I've had... it doesn't ruin mods instantly.. it's something that works over months of use. I've had my cloupor since february, and just not it started acting up. I took it apart, and it had juice all over the electronics. Since there was no juice by the cover that protected the electronics, it HAD to come from the 510... It wasn't a huge amount either, just a small coating to get my fingers wet.

I know that juice isn't very conductive, but it is slightly. I've put a drop on a glass table and put the two leads in the drop.. it does conduct ever so slightly, but it's a real high resistance. I could imagine if there was a drop on the chip to connect the legs on the chip, it could cause havoc. I am tempted next mod I get, to spray the whole chip with some sort of truely non conductive spray to protect such things from happening. I would imagine it also happens AT the 510... in either case, just the design of the spring loaded 510 means juice WILL get to your electronics eventually.. unless you can disasemble the center pin and clean, which you can't.

I actually thing they should re-design the 510 and make it standard.. give a good 2mm gap between the positive and negative to allow for some sort of protection. I know hybrids have this, but they should do it for tanks.. maybe offer an adapter for 510's. make it a 22mm connection. Personally, I've had less troubles with the Vamo series that just used a piece of rubber to insulate the center pin.

So, back to my original question, is there a leak proof 510 to replace my current/new mods' 510?

I'm not 100% sure but when I was dissembling my Hotcig DX200 (beer on a rainy day) I noticed some kind of coating on the DNA 200 board. I'm wondering if Evolv sprays their boards with some anti-conductive spray. BTW the V2 hotcig DX200 is an excellent device it's built as well as any USA made device (Provape is exception). The 510 is the best I've seen on any device. Joyetech's 510 are crap the insulator is too hard so juice can just seep right past it.

 

[NealBJr]

I'm not 100% sure but when I was dissembling my Hotcig DX200 (beer on a rainy day) I noticed some kind of coating on the DNA 200 board. I'm wondering if Evolv sprays their boards with some anti-conductive spray. BTW the V2 hotcig DX200 is an excellent device it's built as well as any USA made device (Provape is exception). The 510 is the best I've seen on any device. Joyetech's 510 are crap the insulator is too hard so juice can just seep right past it.

Now I have to figure out what they sprayed it with.

I agree with the joytech's 510... not the best. I haven't taken my cuboid apart yet, but when I do, I expect some sort of juice in there as well as disconnected soldier joints. I don't mind doing some modifying to get it right. The only problem is, I don't own a drill press, so cutting a bigger metal hole might be a problem. The only replacement 510 I can find that says it's leakproof, is one by Fatdaddyvapes called the V4 Ultimate Edition... but problem is, it's a 22mm plate(Link). I'm really looking for one very close to the size that's on the cuboid that is leak resistant.

 

[DEADBEEF]

You're looking for conformal coating to protect the electronics.

It would be worth checking with Evolve whether there are any temperature sensitive components that should not be coated as conformal coatings do have thermal side effects

 

[daviedog]

I don't know about leakproof,,to enlarge a metal hole use a Step drill bit,,conical shaped. 3 bit sets about 12$usd.
For a Virgin hole (haha) use a power punch first.
You don't need a drill press..

 

[kbeam418]

You're looking for conformal coating to protect the electronics.

It would be worth checking with Evolve whether there are any temperature sensitive components that should not be coated as conformal coatings do have thermal side effects

I just checked it is conformal coated, John himself confirmed it back in 15'. So yeah if juice does it make it way in there the board should be fine.

 

[Matty316]

I'd be more worries about what tank you're using

I have to agree with this. I get some leakage from spitback and condensation on some of my tanks and rda's but never enough to flood my 510. well maybe once on a cheap velocity clone but that was because the insolator around the 510 pin had cracked.

I love the spring loaded 510 on my old ipv4s it has been bomb proof and has never let me down even after over a year of heavy use.

 

[smacksy]

Guess I'm fortunate

These 5 mods I currently vape in rotation all have spring loaded 510 pins..
Oldest is the IPV4 on the far right..
Tanks sit flush and no leaks whatsoever...all work perfect..[emoji12]



Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[MagicJosh]

When you use a RTA tank you need to build it with more cotton so it doesn't leak, also when you top fill a RTA tank you need to shut of the juice control by turning it until juice cant reach the wicks, then fill then open juice flow then vape and your all good. When I started using RTA's I had leaking issues and lost a mods (Smok m80plus died on me from leaking e-juice) I would suggest getting a Griffin RTA Tank where you can control everything you do. Im not sure If spring loaded pin's have anything to do with leaking.

 

[MagicJosh]

It's not majorly leaking from the tanks, and it's just the design of the tanks. It's not leaking from the filling, or vaccuume leaks.. it's just standard leaks. almost any tank you get, the air has to go in somewhere. Unless you have a top airflow tank, some spitback will go down the air inlet, and eventually outside.. usually it goes between the airflow control, and that's how it gets to the 510. It's not much, but that capitulary action that works on wicking coils also helps the juice wick down to the 510, and still down the 510 center pin. I wouldn't say the tank is "leaking"... it can sit in my pocket all day and not one drop gets inside the coat. The atomizer can sit for days after being filled, but only gets moist when in use. It's why I'm looking into a top airflow system.. just to protect the 510 from getting moist.

When you said you haven't had any leaking, not that it would end up like this problem.. that is the minute leaking I've had... it doesn't ruin mods instantly.. it's something that works over months of use. I've had my cloupor since february, and just not it started acting up. I took it apart, and it had juice all over the electronics. Since there was no juice by the cover that protected the electronics, it HAD to come from the 510... It wasn't a huge amount either, just a small coating to get my fingers wet.

I know that juice isn't very conductive, but it is slightly. I've put a drop on a glass table and put the two leads in the drop.. it does conduct ever so slightly, but it's a real high resistance. I could imagine if there was a drop on the chip to connect the legs on the chip, it could cause havoc. I am tempted next mod I get, to spray the whole chip with some sort of truely non conductive spray to protect such things from happening. I would imagine it also happens AT the 510... in either case, just the design of the spring loaded 510 means juice WILL get to your electronics eventually.. unless you can disasemble the center pin and clean, which you can't.

I actually thing they should re-design the 510 and make it standard.. give a good 2mm gap between the positive and negative to allow for some sort of protection. I know hybrids have this, but they should do it for tanks.. maybe offer an adapter for 510's. make it a 22mm connection. Personally, I've had less troubles with the Vamo series that just used a piece of rubber to insulate the center pin.

So, back to my original question, is there a leak proof 510 to replace my current/new mods' 510?

Try this LOL

 

[Ryedan]

Neal, I've got a couple of RX200s, a Kbox mini, and a few other mods with sprung 510s. I get them wet pretty regularly and have not had any leaking into the mods that I know of. I believe all these 510 connectors have O-rings in them to stop leaks. Whatever they've done, it's working for me

For 510 connectors I would check out Fat Daddy Vapes. They have some good stuff and if they don't say they are leak proof email them and ask.

Good luck with it!

 

[smacksy]

When you use a RTA tank you need to build it with more cotton so it doesn't leak, also when you top fill a RTA tank you need to shut of the juice control by turning it until juice cant reach the wicks, then fill then open juice flow then vape and your all good. When I started using RTA's I had leaking issues and lost a mods (Smok m80plus died on me from leaking e-juice) I would suggest getting a Griffin RTA Tank where you can control everything you do. Im not sure If spring loaded pin's have anything to do with leaking.

I agree..spring loaded pins probly don't have a thing to do with leaking...

And I agree using enough cotton in a RTA, like the Griffin shown here, to help prevent flooding/leaks..Also I've found it's very important to keep the cotton out of the airholes under the coils..it helps to prevent spitback too, least it does for me..
BTW, as much as I like my Griff I like my Sense RTA-2 alot more, lol


Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[gotch23]

I agree with the point of the tanks leaking in the first place is the bigger problem here.

But.. the 510 on Joyetech and Wismec mods is notoriously crappy. Its spring doesn't
travel far enough, so if you screw down atomizers with a too long pin, you'll break the 510 connection,
allowing e-liquid inside. Don't know about cloupor, after the 30w scandal i shied away from them.

Solutions... don't buy joyetech stuff untill they fix this... or... place washer between atty (with longer 510 pins) and 510 so the the pin on the mod side doesn't get pushed in as far... or... using a heat-sink $1.86 510 Heat Dissipation Heat Sink for Atomizers - stainless steel / 25mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping.

Now that the damage is done... Idk about total leakproofness, but i second Ryedans suggestion about fatdaddy 510s. In his Wismec RX 2/3 video, DJLSB shows how to exchange the 510... might be useful.

Also... conformal coating... interesting

 

[kbeam418]

I agree with the point of the tanks leaking in the first place is the bigger problem here.

But.. the 510 on Joyetech and Wismec mods is notoriously crappy. Its spring doesn't
travel far enough, so if you screw down atomizers with a too long pin, you'll break the 510 connection,
allowing e-liquid inside. Don't know about cloupor, after the 30w scandal i shied away from them.

Solutions... don't buy joyetech stuff untill they fix this... or... place washer between atty (with longer 510 pins) and 510 so the the pin on the mod side doesn't get pushed in as far... or... using a heat-sink $1.86 510 Heat Dissipation Heat Sink for Atomizers - stainless steel / 25mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping.

Now that the damage is done... Idk about total leakproofness, but i second Ryedans suggestion about fatdaddy 510s. In his Wismec RX 2/3 video, DJLSB shows how to exchange the 510... might be useful.

Also... conformal coating... interesting

Imo Joyetech's 510 are decent enough. They actually have improved the 510 at least on the vaporflask lite and the RX200. It's a shame the Cuboid's 510 is crap because I love that device.