I have a grudge against Christopher Columbus
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By tighter I mean that it's harder to draw air through it. In the eGo, the saturated filler blocks the airflow. Why would a carto be any different?
AH! LOLYup, that would do it. Many thanks for your help!
Any time. I can't believe you are going from cartridges to a REO. Most people have at least a short visit to cartomizers first
HA! I've been told that I'm a wee bit different
I've been dripping on a 2.3 atty tonight for the first time. Only one dry hit. I'm getting ready for the Grand
I've been dripping on a 2.3 atty tonight for the first time. Only one dry hit. I'm getting ready for the Grand
In a carto, if you overfill it, the polyfil will swell and restrict airflow.
8-o
Man, the post office sucks. The don't even knock on the door for signature confirmation anymore... just leave a "You can pick up your package at the post office."
However:
Congrats man!! Nice choice on color for your REO
I usually keep filling it until I see some color under the top of the filler. If you do it until the filler is soaked than obviously, it's flooded.
As for squonking. I prefer the "blind squonk". Which means that you take a dry hit while lightly pressing on the bottle. For an atomizer. I stop once I hear a gurgle. With a cartomizer I usually do it for a second or two. Followed by a couple of dry hits to draw the juice up throughout the filler. To properly fill it.
With regard to cartos on a Reo and telling when they are properly "wet" I can only offer my experiences. When the carto looks dry (cotton like on top with a ring of juice that has wicked around the air tube) I squonk the bottle, fairly firmly and hold while taking a very LIGHT draw. It sounds slurpy and nasty and you need to take a LIGHT draw. I then release the bottle. I then take repeated light draws without squonking until the air tube sounds clear again.
For awhile, I would pop off the drip tip and take a look after doing this. It helped a lot in seeing just how much the carto filled each time I did the procedure. Squonk, clear tube, look. Repeat until the top of the carto looks wet. Some people say much like a slushy drink looks.
After a while of checking under the tip you get used to the procedure, and don't need to check as often.
For awhile, I would pop off the drip tip and take a look after doing this. It helped a lot in seeing just how much the carto filled each time I did the procedure. Squonk, clear tube, look. Repeat until the top of the carto looks wet. Some people say much like a slushy drink looks.
After a while of checking under the tip you get used to the procedure, and don't need to check as often.
I read the other thread linked earlier, and he suggested drawing first and then squeeze until you feel the slightest resistance, and stop. The intention there is to fill the poly from the bottom, I guess. However, this left the top dry. The same process with the mod held level ("sideways") seemed to work a little better, but only whichever side was on the bottom had juice.
So I went a little further and did something like what you recommend. Basically, just getting juice to come up the tube and flow over to get to the top without pulling past that to get it in your mouth*. Then release the bottle and it should draw the excess back out.
* Ideally - I still end up with a mouthfull often. I'll get there, though. Thanks for the tip! 
So I went a little further and did something like what you recommend. Basically, just getting juice to come up the tube and flow over to get to the top without pulling past that to get it in your mouth*. Then release the bottle and it should draw the excess back out.
* Ideally - I still end up with a mouthfull often.
I'll get there, though. Thanks for the tip! I hear ya. I should have also clairified that I moved to 3 ohm cartos at 6v. I get the nice slushy wet flavor I like and the 6v powers through it and produces really good vapor. My wife commented tonight that I was obscuring the tv with a veil of vapor.
Yeah, it takes a little practice at first but once you find your technique. Then it's really easy. Remembered that it took me a week or so just to learn how to properly feed an atomizer and cartomizer.
You'll get there man and when you do. Your gonna be loving your REO.
You'll get there man and when you do. Your gonna be loving your REO.
yeah, I'm running the mini at 6v with the 14250. Slushy doesn't stick around for long.
At 6v, though, I'm already in the market for another one. I think I had just overblown in my head how big the Grande was going to be. The Grand would still be more portable than the SB in that it doesn't roll around. I can actually set it next to me in the car and have a reasonable expectation that it'll stay there.
At 6v, though, I'm already in the market for another one. I think I had just overblown in my head how big the Grande was going to be. The Grand would still be more portable than the SB in that it doesn't roll around. I can actually set it next to me in the car and have a reasonable expectation that it'll stay there.
Forgot to mention too that the on/off switch doesn't work at all with these 2 cells. Just a little too long, I guess, because it hits the same "locked" as unlocked.
Yeah, the Grands aren't that big at all. It's about the same size as a pack of cigs. Use my Reo's all the time in the car and they sit perfectly in the little cup holders.
With the locking pins. You just have to make sure that the pin is turned all the way towards the door. It'll be the opposite when you want to lock the button. That's the closest thing to a on/off switch since these are fully mechanical and doesn't operate unless the button is pressed.
Honestly, haven't had a need to do so ever since I got it.
If the batteries you are using are compressing the spring all the way, your spring has no room to collapse. If your atty or cartomizer were to cause a short the spring can not collapse and move your battery away from the contact point.
This can cause further damage to your REO.
It's not compressed all the way. Honestly, I don't see how any battery with the nub on the positive would allow the on/off to work. The button still depresses a bit with it in the locked position, and that's enough to contact the positive.
Not a big deal, though. It's not as if the button is in a place that it's likely to be fired by accident.
Not a big deal, though. It's not as if the button is in a place that it's likely to be fired by accident.
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