Water and aqueous solutions are the recommended methods for fighting lithium-ion battery fires because they quickly lower the battery temperature to below the thermal runaway threshold temperature. That stops the reaction. If it's done early enough it can stop thermal runaway from even occurring.
I have questions about: Venting holes
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Water and aqueous solutions are the recommended methods for fighting lithium-ion battery fires because they quickly lower the battery temperature to below the thermal runaway threshold temperature. That stops the reaction. If it's done early enough it can stop thermal runaway from even occurring.
That's really good to know actually! How do you even know all this it's amazing! But even though lithium reacts with water from what I've seen kind of violently, the small amount in the battery wouldn't react that badly? Just want to get that clear!
Oh, wait, never mind, that wouldn't react unless the battery would split open you said! Heh.
There's that but even if a rechargeable li-ion battery splits open nothing would happen if it was dropped into water. The lithium in these batteries is bound up in a compound, typically lithium-manganese-oxide or lithium-nickel-manganese-cobalt-oxide. It doesn't exist as metallic lithium that can react with the water.
Non-rechargeable lithium metal batteries however have metallic lithium in them and should never be put in water if the battery case is open.
Little Late but I just have to say thank you all once again for all the help and support, I feel honored that I got so much help so fast. Thank you! Respect!
^Dont recommend starting with a hybrid. But as long as you stay within your battery's parameters you shouldn't have to worry about venting. Practice battery safety.
If we use the proper terminology,
Hybrids are about as safe as it gets with fully mechanical mods.
Hybrids have dedicated atomizers.
If you are referring to pinless, or direct to battery mods, then yes I agree, however those are not hybrids.
They have a "hybrid look".
well thats what i meant, thanks for clarifying.
Well then, what's the thing with people EVERYWHERE (well most places and all I ask) saying that hybrids are bad for newbies (as in new with mechs, I've studied battery safety and I'm buying a multimeter at the same time until I feel that I know the mod enough to feel when the voltage drop is at recharge time for the battery) but I've also wondered about why, I mean what's more dangerous about direct contact to the battery, that would give you a better feel of the voltage drop, since it's less, you can use it longer I would guess (is that right?) please tell me if you know and if I'm wrong about the thing about voltage drop!
Oh there's a difference? So what is a hybrid? The pinless are without the centerpin I suppose, but isn't that like a thing in hybrids?
Just had to say this, an off topic thing but Congratz! You get shoutouts from Grimmgreen an he basically honors you for your battery scheme and says that every time that someone asks which battery to use he sends your scheme! Thank you for keeping us up with you battery test and basically making the vape world more safe!
Huge difference.
A hybrid mod has no 510 threads.
It has a dedicated atomizer that attaches directly to the body of the mod.
You cannot use the "wrong" atty on a hybrid.
Pinless mods give a clean "hybrid look".
They are not hybrids.
They are direct-to-battery mods.
Know your gear.
People tend to parrot what they hear, but fail to take the time to fully understand what's being said.
This is where confusion starts.
It usually ends with a hospital visit.
The "Oh there's a difference" was not meant to be disrespectful, it's a very confusing world, the vape world I mean, but then a hybrid would not be that bad maybe, it's just a regular mech with an atty special to that mod, right? Then it would be less chance of failure I guess. And "Know your gear." Is the best quote and should be taught to all people, especially people doing info ma and wikis about this, thanks for the help!
And you're right, but I have not done that much about hybrids because of the misunderstood info and that people tells me that it's no good for someone just starting with mechs, but probably no hybrid to start with. Again thank you mate! I'm gonna look into this a lot more! Destroying the fears of hybrids!
A hybrid is a mod-atty combination that doesn't have a 510 connection at all. The mod and atty are specifically designed to fit each other and the battery positive simply cannot come in contact with any of the negative part of the battery.
The word "hybrid" is simply used erroneously by most reviewers. Only one of the reasons why I feel that most of the popular reviewers are unqualified to discuss any technical aspects of mods. They perpetuate falsehoods that are then difficult to dispel.
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But if there is no 510, what kind of connection is there? I believe there are different and as said before some where the atty and the mod is a one piece mod, but is it like threaded like the 510 (510 is the measure(or measurement, not a native English speaker sorry) of the connection, but a different size? Click it on?
Venting is very important, one thing I really like about most mechanical mods is that you can run the battery in either orientation because battery positive up or down doesn't matter to a mechanical mod, all you need to do is complete the circuit and insulate all battery areas necessary from contact. Really the mod is just completing the circuit, for a large number of mods you can orient the battery however you choose.
Personally I tend to run my mechanical mods with the battery positive facing whichever way the vent holes are located, regardless of design the vent holes being close to the positive is most important to me. For example, I run all of my SMPL mods with the battery "upside down" to normal, with the positive pole facing the button, this allows the area that would be venting gasses to be closest to the venting holes.
Personally I tend to run my mechanical mods with the battery positive facing whichever way the vent holes are located, regardless of design the vent holes being close to the positive is most important to me. For example, I run all of my SMPL mods with the battery "upside down" to normal, with the positive pole facing the button, this allows the area that would be venting gasses to be closest to the venting holes.
Can become a huge problem though if there's even the slightest tear in the battery wrap (probably a more likely thing to happen than venting a battery on a reasonable resistance). Personally I don't think it's worth the risk.
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Usually, the atty "body" screws directly to the mod body and the atty has a positive pin that simply can't come into contact with battery negative.
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