I think I'm doing something wrong.
- Thread starter Eric Renfrow
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And I followed in her pawprints. I still recommend Egos and Spinners and clearos for newbies.
That's not helping and bad advice for a newer vaper, and rebuilding is not for everyone and many people need to take steps up to that if they chose to.
Well if that is the case, then that could be the problem, in my experience when I would use tanks I never had much luck with protank coils, mine lasted maybe half a day to a week max, usually 2-4 days with 50/50 PG/VG but I went through 3-5 ml a day at 3.2-3.6V depending on coil resistance.
I have ProTank2s in the rotation, so I'm using the same Evod heads as the OP. I had no issues with them for months, but the last box I bought, most of them were bad. So, it also is possible that the OP got some bad heads, which is a drawback of clearos in general.
ETA: I pay about $8 per 5 at my local vape shop, which is even a bit high, but it's convenient. And I get about a week outta of one using high-PG, fairly clear juice.
ETA: I pay about $8 per 5 at my local vape shop, which is even a bit high, but it's convenient. And I get about a week outta of one using high-PG, fairly clear juice.
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I forgot to mention that you might consider buying your heads online. $3 each is outrageous.
Kanger Protank eVod atomizer coils for $5.79
Kanger Protank eVod atomizer coils for $5.79
Hes cheifing the pens so much hes just burning them out. If you enjoy vape and getting lots of vapor production look into building. Imo I think building carto atomizers is more of a pain. Ur gunna be buying coils for days if you puff on that thing like theres no tomorrow.
Okay, so like you said, you are new. Like some have said, it depends a lot on juice and how many ml per tank you are going thru.
Some clearos dont like to get low on juice, you have to do the tipping to make sure they are saturated constantly so they dont get dry and actually burn. If you want to stay with the clearos you might have to change the heads more often or learn to change the wicks.
If your juice is dark or sweet then its just the nature of the game and you have to decide, spend the money and change the heads more often or do some more studying on how to properly dry burn the coil.
Having said that, from my experience with pre-built heads and silica wicks is that most premades are made in large quantities and really are not made with reuse in mind. They use low quality silica and since they are designed with reuse they dont care.
If dry burning is not bringing your wick back to a pure white again ( now keep in mind if your juice is like coffee or molasses, then an almost white should do) then its not high temperature resistant silica.
A good way to test it, is take the wick out of one of the old clearo heads and hold it with some sort of pliers and torch it or take a lighter to it. Lighter will work , but you have to heat it for a longer time. If your wick gets real brittle or gets burned or charred , DONT use it. THose cheap silicas with actually shed and you dont want micro silica fibers to get into your lungs. Like I said, its not that they are bad, they are meant for just a short term use and not meant to be dry burned.
So back to what to do. Have you tried cartomizers? Really they are sort of forgotten these days, and really the easiest and most efficient for new people. Only thing more quick and easy are cigarettes. I loved cartomizers in a tank. Took a bit of a learning curve , but so simple. You can buy prepunched cartos and just prime them with liquid, I mean soak them, and slip them in a tank and youre off. Again, there are variables in how long they last depending on juice.
I know there are some good tank systems with replaceable heads, If you want to stay with those then you either have to find a clearer, lighter juice or if you dont want to spend so much on replacement heads, then it might be fun to learn to slip the silica out and replace it with good high temp silica or my favorite silica : EKOwool. It can be used over and over and over , up to 10 times before it start to get frayed or worn.
It takes a while for some to find the best delivery system, but dont let yourself get overwhelmed. All of the talk of sub-ohm is not for everyone, and right now you need to get comfortable and not get stressed into quitting and going back to cigarettes.
You might like rebuilding and you will know if you need more heat , or TH or want to get into lower resistance. Your body will let you know, not others that say .2 ohms is awesome.
Im sure others with ring in with better clearomizer/ tank suggestions. I was a big fan of cartos in a tank, but I fell in love with NET tobaccos that are ugly, thick, look like molasses and found myself going thru 4, even 5 a day so I started to look for something more cost efficient. Loved the Vivi Novas , but then got into a nice rebuild able tank/ silica system. I finally found the Odysseus ( on my signature) and still use them, Im a dinosaur. If you like rebuilding , in the future, one of the easiest and most satisfying rebuild able is the Kayfun Lite tank. Things to think about .....
I hope you get something that is cost efficient and stress free.....There are lots of great people here that will chime in and give you some good suggestions.......
Some clearos dont like to get low on juice, you have to do the tipping to make sure they are saturated constantly so they dont get dry and actually burn. If you want to stay with the clearos you might have to change the heads more often or learn to change the wicks.
If your juice is dark or sweet then its just the nature of the game and you have to decide, spend the money and change the heads more often or do some more studying on how to properly dry burn the coil.
Having said that, from my experience with pre-built heads and silica wicks is that most premades are made in large quantities and really are not made with reuse in mind. They use low quality silica and since they are designed with reuse they dont care.
If dry burning is not bringing your wick back to a pure white again ( now keep in mind if your juice is like coffee or molasses, then an almost white should do) then its not high temperature resistant silica.
A good way to test it, is take the wick out of one of the old clearo heads and hold it with some sort of pliers and torch it or take a lighter to it. Lighter will work , but you have to heat it for a longer time. If your wick gets real brittle or gets burned or charred , DONT use it. THose cheap silicas with actually shed and you dont want micro silica fibers to get into your lungs. Like I said, its not that they are bad, they are meant for just a short term use and not meant to be dry burned.
So back to what to do. Have you tried cartomizers? Really they are sort of forgotten these days, and really the easiest and most efficient for new people. Only thing more quick and easy are cigarettes. I loved cartomizers in a tank. Took a bit of a learning curve , but so simple. You can buy prepunched cartos and just prime them with liquid, I mean soak them, and slip them in a tank and youre off. Again, there are variables in how long they last depending on juice.
I know there are some good tank systems with replaceable heads, If you want to stay with those then you either have to find a clearer, lighter juice or if you dont want to spend so much on replacement heads, then it might be fun to learn to slip the silica out and replace it with good high temp silica or my favorite silica : EKOwool. It can be used over and over and over , up to 10 times before it start to get frayed or worn.
It takes a while for some to find the best delivery system, but dont let yourself get overwhelmed. All of the talk of sub-ohm is not for everyone, and right now you need to get comfortable and not get stressed into quitting and going back to cigarettes.
You might like rebuilding and you will know if you need more heat , or TH or want to get into lower resistance. Your body will let you know, not others that say .2 ohms is awesome.
Im sure others with ring in with better clearomizer/ tank suggestions. I was a big fan of cartos in a tank, but I fell in love with NET tobaccos that are ugly, thick, look like molasses and found myself going thru 4, even 5 a day so I started to look for something more cost efficient. Loved the Vivi Novas , but then got into a nice rebuild able tank/ silica system. I finally found the Odysseus ( on my signature) and still use them, Im a dinosaur. If you like rebuilding , in the future, one of the easiest and most satisfying rebuild able is the Kayfun Lite tank. Things to think about .....
I hope you get something that is cost efficient and stress free.....There are lots of great people here that will chime in and give you some good suggestions.......
It could be the juice. My Protank heads last a long time, but I vape 70pg/30vg juice that is almost clear. I've never had much luck cleaning Protank heads, I look for sales and buy them in bulk. I can rebuild them, but find it about as exciting as watching grass grow, so I have them in a jar for when I'm really bored. At about $1 a head, rebuilding isn't worth it to me for the most part, since I don't vape a Protank very often.
Very true, some people even quit with Blu e cigs. As long as someone is getting their nicotine and has a device that works for them they're satisfied there's no reason to have to upgrade.
I've only had mine for a week but I vape all day long on it, and only changed the first coil after 5 days straight cause I wanted to try a cotton wick.. Maybe its the juice?? I've been vaping Ripping Vapors Green Slime (apple) all week, its pretty damn sweet, but really light, and no issues except the couple times I overfilled it.. That 15ml lasted til today. Still have 3/4 of the tank full and there's a bit left to top it off in the bottle..
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I think building "carto atomizers" is closer to impossible, than a pain. Unless it's a Sophia or Diver, but I have a feeling that isn't what you meant.
While its great that you want to take a totally new and inexperienced vapor on a grand tour of YOUR side of the vape world; there is a whole other universe of it out there. Furthermore I find it to be irresponsible to advise a new vapor to use high power without any education on safety. We All need to find our own way.
When I started and merely wanted to cut out cigs if someone was referring to my stuff as "crap coils and junk pens" i would either not listen to anything else that person said or assumed everyone who vapes has that attitude and decide against it altogether and stuck to my Marlboro's.
So im glad I never came across someone like you then.
What does it matter to you what anyone uses. As a vaping veteran you have a responsibility to either say nothing if you have nothing to add that is going to help a new vapor. I enjoy a dual coil with 1.21 giggowatts of power as much as the next vet. BUT, I started with a cigalike. I'm sorry if that offends you.
To the OP; use whatever is going to help you stay off cigs; that is what its about: there are plenty of us ON ecf that want to help in anyway we can. To your immediate concern. Yes those premade coils should last 1-2 weeks; however, the darker the juice the less time they last. I went to a starter rebuildable tank when I couldn't take it anymore; but, my fiancé has stuck with the kanger coils for almost a year now, she gets s week out of a coil.
She sticks with lighter colored juices to get it to last that long. The darker the juice the quicker the coil Gunk's up. Its just the nature of the beast unfortunately. To save some money I buy hers in packs of 5 a few packs a time off of ebay.
I'm great at building and fix electronics for fun- rebuilding a kanger coil is a trial if futility for me. Those things are my archenemy.
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I also do not bother with rebuilding ProTank heads. The point of my having it at all is to have something simple for when I don't feel like or have time to rebuild my other stuff.
I don't think it was the juice, I might of just had the worst luck, since I know some people had good or at least decent results with kanger coils while others were like me, I had way better results with coil life with the 1st iclears 16 or 30, but I don't worry about that anymore.
As a suggestion for the OP getting a good inexpensive rebuildable tank built at 1.8 ohms+ may work better. The Fogger v4 should be around $40 or less and the coil should last longer and it is a nicer vape when I tested it out.
I think recommending an iClear is a better plan. When you stop to think how much you have learned to be able to use RDAs safely, it's a lot for a new vaper to absorb when they are trying to get their EVOD to work. I would rather see them vaping while they research wire gauges, wicking materials, devices that will read ohms, etc.
Yeah, I agree on an iClear as an alternative. I couldn't get the heads to die on those no matter how hard I tried.
When I was new vv confused me, let alone ohms laws, battery safety, etc. I was more concerned about not smoking than anything else.
When I was new vv confused me, let alone ohms laws, battery safety, etc. I was more concerned about not smoking than anything else.
I always heard good things about iClears, but I never got to try them. My vape is the worst tank cracker I know of and I have to use glass.
Well in my case I learned really fast, but I realize not everyone is the same, I was thinking and typing but forgot to mention about having a local B&M build a coil for the OP as a possible option, that guy that kept showing off his coils triggered the rebuilding in me. But, the iclear is what really got me to cut down and get of the cigs. I know the iclear 30 has a newer version and new coil, but I can't recommend it since I have no experience with that version but the iclear 16 and iclear30 was most reliable as far as coils when I used tanks.
For some that get into vaping it comes easier to jump into the world of building coils and for some it becomes a hobby or an art form. Hey, I made a single, then its onto dual, triple, quads etc.... Ive seen some ridiculous set ups.
For the average person, building can be stressful and scary. So taking steps is important. Someone mentioned a spinner, which I think is a variable voltage. SOme peoples experience really gets better when they can raise the voltage/ wattage. I thought I was fine with my KGO for almost a year. I kept resisting the "get a provari" or other VV devices. I got tired of having 4 KGOs in rotation because of the voltage drop. So I got a nice simple MOD with a kick. I got to set it at my preferred wattage and it brought my cartos to life with a bang. Large clouds, great taste, consistent vape, no drop of performance.
What might be happening to you is that if you have only one battery, you are running the battery down to too low a voltage which doesnt get your coil hot enough and it is cooking and thickening on your wick. You might try recharging it more often, or getting a second battery and switching them off so you have more power heating the coils more efficiently. All 3.7 batteries start off at about 4.0 to 4.22 , then taper off all the way down to 2.8 and lower. At about the time it reaches 3.7 and lower performance drops off.
Just something to think about, I dont want to overwhelm you with too much info.
For the average person, building can be stressful and scary. So taking steps is important. Someone mentioned a spinner, which I think is a variable voltage. SOme peoples experience really gets better when they can raise the voltage/ wattage. I thought I was fine with my KGO for almost a year. I kept resisting the "get a provari" or other VV devices. I got tired of having 4 KGOs in rotation because of the voltage drop. So I got a nice simple MOD with a kick. I got to set it at my preferred wattage and it brought my cartos to life with a bang. Large clouds, great taste, consistent vape, no drop of performance.
What might be happening to you is that if you have only one battery, you are running the battery down to too low a voltage which doesnt get your coil hot enough and it is cooking and thickening on your wick. You might try recharging it more often, or getting a second battery and switching them off so you have more power heating the coils more efficiently. All 3.7 batteries start off at about 4.0 to 4.22 , then taper off all the way down to 2.8 and lower. At about the time it reaches 3.7 and lower performance drops off.
Just something to think about, I dont want to overwhelm you with too much info.
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