I have an ego twist and a vision spinner. I am working on recoiling/rewicking my MT3 1.8 ohms hoping it works better. I emailed the vendor. Their response is to get 2.2 ohms (or maybe 2.4 ohms). She said that 2.4 ohms is know to be the best in vaping, but on this board, people said the lower resistance gives more vape/smoke. I am confused. What is correct? I need more clearomizers and thinking of getting more MT3 to try. The vape/smoke is important to me. I want as much smoke as possible. Can someone explain how resistance comes in affect to me? Thank you.
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This is a link which shows a chart for the best resistance clearos for the voltages used. As long as you stay within the light green resistances on the chart you should be alright. With a 1.8 ohm clearo you may be running your juice to hot depending on the vg content of your juice. Correct me if I'm wrong but I was told the higher the vg content the hotter the coil has to get to vaporize it so either the resistance of the coil must be lower or the higher the voltage has to be. A higher percentage of vg gives more vapor but it also takes more power to vaporize.
It might be an idea to buy a 2.2 ohm and a 2.4 ohm replacement heads and give them a try. They don't cost much and you can decide for yourself which is best for your voltage settings and juices.
Juices with higher vg percentages give more "smoke".
This is a link which shows a chart for the best resistance clearos for the voltages used. As long as you stay within the light green resistances on the chart you should be alright. With a 1.8 ohm clearo you may be running your juice to hot depending on the vg content of your juice. Correct me if I'm wrong but I was told the higher the vg content the hotter the coil has to get to vaporize it so either the resistance of the coil must be lower or the higher the voltage has to be. A higher percentage of vg gives more vapor but it also takes more power to vaporize.
It might be an idea to buy a 2.2 ohm and a 2.4 ohm replacement heads and give them a try. They don't cost much and you can decide for yourself which is best for your voltage settings and juices.
Juices with higher vg percentages give more "smoke".
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Constantly running a disposable battery at high voltage will drain the battery faster I would think. I haven't used stick batteries in awhile, I would use the 1.8 ohms at low voltage on a twist, like 3.5 to 3.8v
(I'm no battery expert though)
(I'm no battery expert though)
As you are using an Ego Twist, you can adjust for all of those resistances. If you want to adjust for different juices I would recommend staying in the 2.2 - 2.5 ohm range to give you flexibility. If a particular juice burns a bit at 1.8 ohms you may not be able do dial down the voltage far enough. If you were using a plain Ego battery, then 1.8 ohms is the best choice to get good vapor.
First, thanks for response. I understand that I can adjust to higher voltage on higher resistance and vice versa with the lower resistance. That means I can get either high or low resistance clearomizer. but will either case give me better vape/smoke than the other, assume using same juice?
I am curious about this topic as well. What can gather so far though is you will get a cooler vapor and less vapor production if you vape at 4 volts with a 2.4 ohm head as opposed to 4 volts with a 1.8 ohm head. I would also venture to say the 2.4 head would last longer due to being a beefier coil....on average. Please enlighten me if I'm talking out of my .....
From a technical standpoint, Voltage x Voltage/Resistance = Wattage. Higher Wattage = hotter burning coil. Hotter burning coil generally means more vapor. So, firing a 2.4 ohm coil with 4 volts = 6.6 Watts; firing a 1.8 ohm coil with 4 volts = 8.8 Watts. Hope this helps.
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Ha, did you see vid about man who blew out his front teeth and partial tongue? Was using a self modified POS...anyways, Im a total newb but only have 1.8 and 2.8 ohm atomizers for my ProTank, I bought a ton a replacement 2.8 and only have 2 1.8 that it came with, noticed my fav, mocha java tastes amazing at 3.8 on 1.8 head, thought it would be even betten with 2.8 at higher volt, nope, burnt taste any higher than 4.2 and not as much vapor, kinda goes against more volt=more vapor, but just my personnal experience thus far, hope this helps, yet again, noob here
No, but you risk burning a 1.8 ohm head. I use 3.7V max for 1.7 to 2.0 ohm LR cartos. Basically, LR atomizer equipment was developed with semi regulated 3.7V in mind. That means less than 3.7V under load. Our new generation of VV/VW APVs deliver a rock solid 3.7V under load or not.
Most of the vaping charts I see do not state if the watt values are for voltages under load or not. These charts have been around for a long time. For 4.0 volts I'd rather use at least a 2.4 ohm atomizer.
I'm pretty sure the resistance wire would part if you set the voltage too high. In electrical terms that is an OPEN and the battery would not be able to complete the circuit which means nothing happens.
(Please correct me if I'm wrong Vets.
)
Generally, the wicking and/or filler materials burn before a coil breaks under overvoltage. Depends on how hard you hit it.
No explosions, just burnt up wires and wicks. Think of it like a fuse, it reaches its limit and simply disconnects. No explosions. Volts squared divided by resistance equals watts is a great way to understand how you can play with your new vv battery.
Really? What modified POS? Post the video please. I would like to know to void that to happen.
What if the (+) wire melt and happen to comes in touch with the housing? kaboom? 
I hope in that case, the protection feature of the battery will come in.
I hope in that case, the protection feature of the battery will come in.I'm pretty sure the resistance wire would part if you set the voltage too high. In electrical terms that is an OPEN and the battery would not be able to complete the circuit which means nothing happens.
(Please correct me if I'm wrong Vets.
What if the (+) wire melt and happen to comes in touch with the housing? kaboom?
The housing is continuous with the (-) side of the circuit, so it "touches" that already.
Another noob here, so I'm just looking at the chart that was posted earlier and it seems that the 2.4 ohm head gives you a wider variety of "green" voltages, whereas, the 1.8 ohm head gives you less variety in the "green" voltages. 1.8 ohm it seems you only have 4 "green" choices without taking the chance of burning your juice. 2.4 you have six "green" choices. It seems that the 2.4 ohm would give you a better chance of finding the juice's "sweet spot"? Correct me, if I'm wrong.
The (-) is touching the housing (chassis). The (+) is not. The scenario I gave is the same as if the (+) and (-) of the battery are shorted.
It actually depends on what you mean by "the wire". Are you referring to the coil? If you are, then the scenario you gave is not the same as the (+) and (-) of the battery shorting together. If the coil were to melt and the remaining part of the (+) side were to touch the housing (pretty unlikely), then you would have a lower resistance coil which would probably just melt again and cause an open. But, if you are referring to the wire that feeds current to the coil(s), I would hope that the battery's protection would stop a "kaboom"
Check out the inside of a carto:
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