I wanna make a mod. I know that I gotta get a machine shop involved at some point but prior to that, what is the process? do i need any software? do i gotta make a 3D model? So far I just have sketches on paper. is this the right forum for this? I feel like that since I passed 70 posts I never know where to post threads..
Hi Mike,
Maybe I can help you. There are several Mods you can build, without having to get into Machining anything. Like this, for example...
Add Variable Voltage Control to Your eCig Mod - The PUCK e-Cig Mod
What kind of thing did you have in mind?... and what Size? There are several Electronic Chip Modules already built that can be used, where you just solder on the wires onto ready-to-solder terminals. For what I consider the Ultimate, Evolv makes a VW Chip that goes from 7W up to 20W, and has a beautiful OLED Screen already attached. It's called the DNA 20D. Evolv also makes a USB Charger that will charge your Batteries with 4.2V, at 500mA, from 5V into a USB connector. If you want less than 7W, or don't want the OLED Screen, and 12W is high enough for you, Evolv makes a VW Chip that runs from 5W to 12W, without a Screen, and has ready-to-solder terminals. That's the original DNA 12. The DNA 20D was a follow-up on the DNA 12, for those who wanted higher Watts. These are both designed for a Single 18650 Lithium Manganese Battery, like the Panasonic 2250 mAh Hybrid LiNiCoMn CGR18650CH - the absolute best you can get. Or two batteries in Parallel, like Lithium Polymer Batteries.
You can also build your own around an IC Chip, like in the link above, and add a Volt Meter if you wish...
How to Make a Variable Voltage Mod E-Cig Personal Vaporizer - YouTube
Easiest Variable Voltage Mod - Elmo !! - YouTube
The 510 connectors are readily available, and different Battery Sizes and Shapes can be used... like Li-Ion in 14450, 18350, and 18650. Battery Trays are available for them, with ready-to-solder connectors. Or Flat Lithium-Polymer (Li-Po) Batteries too, like in Cell Phones, can be used in Box Mods.
Lithium Manganese (LiMn) Batteries are highly recommended, but I don't think the Li-Po come in LiMn... you'd have to check to be certain. If you decide to use Li-Ion cylindrical batteries (like 18650), for a higher mAh rating, you should definitely get Protected Batteries, for added Safety!!! And there are levels of Protection, with Short Circuit Protection being the minimum protection in the shortest length, but since you will be building this yourself, you should get Full Protection, and Battery Trays to fit them.
If you don't know, here's how the 18650 Battery Spec works... an 18650 Battery, by the Spec, is 18mm in Diameter, and 65mm in Length, but most of them are a little wider (at least), and as more protection is added, they get longer and longer, so an 18650 Battery that is 65mm long will have NO Protection... one about 66-67mm may only have Short Circuit Protection (if it's a Flat Top - a Button Top will NOT in that length). Full Protection carries several features that are in a Chip on a small Circuit Board, and can make the Battery up to 70mm long. Plus, there are Flat Tops and Button Tops, so length can become an issue, but I think that 70mm is about as long as they get (not sure).
Here are some references...
http://flashlightwiki.com/Rechargeable
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650Summary UK.html
There are two basic Electronics Designs... a Buck Converter, and a Boost Converter. Some Box Mods use two Li-Ion Batteries in Series, for 8.4V Max. A Buck Converter is used with this arrangement, and will regulate a VV Setting, like 4V, by Cutting the Input Voltage down to 4V, and can maintain that 4V (regulate it at 4V) until the Batteries drop from 8.4 to about 5.0V (a dropout voltage of 1V). A VV Setting of 3.3V would therefore be maintained down to 4.3V at the Batteries. However, the Protection would turn them OFF at about 6.4V to 6.0V, when they would need to be Recharged (at their individual 3.2V to 3.0V levels).
For a Single Battery Mod, you'd need a Boost Converter. It would work in a similar fashion, but could Boost the single battery's 4.2V (Max), up to say 6V, and maintain that until about 3.2V (at the Battery), where most Li-Ion Protection will shut them Off (3.0V is about the lowest).
There are also Buck-Boost Converters, that will maintain a VV Setting from a wide range of Input Voltages. One very good Buck-Boost design is called SEPIC, or Single-Ended Primary-Inductor Converter. These have excellent output regulation with minimal noise. Another is called a Ćuk Converter, or Cuk, pronounced Chook, named after Slobodan Ćuk, who first presented the design. SEPIC does not usually Invert the output, but Ćuk normally Does, so a non-inverting Ćuk would be desirable.
With all of these designs, you really have a lot of choices for your Mod. And if you still want to Machine a Battery Tube, or whatever, you could use any of these for the Electronics, but you could also buy those Battery Tubes and things pre-made, and build around them. People have put the DNA 20D in bad a Provari, and others like it. The DNA Boards are only VW, but you really wouldn't need VV with them, and VW has advantages over VV. So far, all of the IC Chip designs I've seen are VV only, so no VW there (yet, that I've seen, but I haven't looked for about a month).
I hope this helps.
