I06 question

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Rickajho

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Sorry to disappoint, but this is day two with the I06 and 100 VG and I have nothing bad to report. :)

The Reo Mini showed up today - Yay! - and... no problem with the I06. I was using a Boge shorty carto on it and that was giving me a bit of seepage into the drip well with squonkng. (Nothing substantial.) When I switched to the I06 it's taking up liquid fine when squonking and - nothing showing in the drip well at all. (100 VG is winning here.)

Just ordered more I06's. Yeah, I have seen people recommending those HH357's customized for VG. But at $24.99 a pop it better squonk itself and make me some toast too. I might try one at some point but three I06's for the price of one HH357? Maybe later.
 
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mackman

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Well nuts to you! lol

I have to use 100 VG - I'm full blown allergic to PG. So there. I just stuck an I06 in a Vmod XL and I'm not having the leaky gloopy problems the OP is having. And it's feeding my "gravy style" VG from The Vapor Room fine so...

Seriously, the I06 is working a hella lot better than those "special" Vapage attys. (When I run across someone who actually likes those things I'll get back to you.) They seemed to be boiling juice rather than creating vapor, even at 2.0 ohms. Just nasty, "metallic" flavor was coming off that thing. It's really hard to describe the experience - other than "wrong." Every so often that atty did something I could only describe as backfiring. I would hear a soft "pop" and get a sensation of a hot vapor bubble blowing up in it. It was getting scary.

The draw was terrible too. So, ok - blame my VG. I don't care. All I can tell you is the draw on the I06 is just plain - normal.

Either I got a bad Vapage atty with my Vmod. Or it's just a great idea with a bad design behind it. Having compared the two there's no way I'm going back for a second bite at the Vapage atty's. And I'm gonna keep sticking 100 VG in the I06 and I like it. So neener. :pervy:

Reo Mini should be in my vape mail today. So we'll see how that goes with an I06.

Ditto from Me. Reo and 100%VG (many different juices) and an I06 no problems what so ever.
 

Racehorse

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Ya squonk too much :)

Besides that 100% VG juice do not like bottom feeders. I own a REO and have encountered no problem with properly calibrated liquids i.e 70/30 max

Beg to differ on that, Switched. ;) Bottom feeders excel w/high VG an is often why people get BFs. I'm pretty sure the maker of the REO is a 100% VG vaper in fact.......

anyway, I moved to BFs because I am high VG vaper, could not get the stuff to go right in punched cartos w/tanks or clearos with wicks, gunked everyting up. But did not want to drip by hand into atty, so BFs were a godsend.
 
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Rickajho

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I think more that the viscosity of the juice it's the sugars that ruin attys.

Agreed. That and the flavoring components as well. Seems to be a pretty consistent pattern: the darker and the sweeter a liquid the faster a coil gets mucked up, no matter what the PG/VG ratio. I've run TVR Cuban 100 VG - which is almost water clear - in a Kanger PT for up to 9 days before I needed a coil change.
 

Iken

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Agreed. That and the flavoring components as well. Seems to be a pretty consistent pattern: the darker and the sweeter a liquid the faster a coil gets mucked up, no matter what the PG/VG ratio. I've run TVR Cuban 100 VG - which is almost water clear - in a Kanger PT for up to 9 days before I needed a coil change.

You couldn't be any more accurate in your assessment Rick. I always find the darker toned liquids are consistently sweet. I believe the flavoring is the culprit. Just too much sweeteners at work here. You already know this I'm sure, but for the sake of silent readers. When you have liquids that contain so much sweeteners, they will resonate with use. During use, you are applying heat while submerging the coil inside, when you discontinue use, this gives the remaining liquid on the coil to harden up. This is the cool down period. You don't notice it too well at first unless you are experienced with the device in use. When the significance hits' it may be too late. This is the Big cool down period where the device is left over night. The resin that is created by the sweeteners by the heat up and cool down periods encase the coil overnight. This leaves a mute like performance the next day because while the coil is getting hot, the heat has no where to escape but inside itself which leads to an improper burn.

Once you get experienced and get a good feel for the device, you would notice the mentioned steps occurring almost immediately. This is the time you would want to switch liquids immediately to clean out and the coil. I find Dekang and Hanseng liquids can clean out anything and destroy the build up by simply using it. If you are too late, dont give up on dripping and using. Just vape through it and your atty will be clean up by use (heating process can break the mold and with clean burning liquid the atty can be like new.

Rick, how much are you loving that Reo man? I can never get enough of mine!
 

Rickajho

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You couldn't be any more accurate in your assessment Rick. I always find the darker toned liquids are consistently sweet. I believe the flavoring is the culprit. Just too much sweeteners at work here. You already know this I'm sure, but for the sake of silent readers. When you have liquids that contain so much sweeteners, they will resonate with use. During use, you are applying heat while submerging the coil inside, when you discontinue use, this gives the remaining liquid on the coil to harden up. This is the cool down period. You don't notice it too well at first unless you are experienced with the device in use. When the significance hits' it may be too late. This is the Big cool down period where the device is left over night. The resin that is created by the sweeteners by the heat up and cool down periods encase the coil overnight. This leaves a mute like performance the next day because while the coil is getting hot, the heat has no where to escape but inside itself which leads to an improper burn.

Once you get experienced and get a good feel for the device, you would notice the mentioned steps occurring almost immediately. This is the time you would want to switch liquids immediately to clean out and the coil. I find Dekang and Hanseng liquids can clean out anything and destroy the build up by simply using it. If you are too late, dont give up on dripping and using. Just vape through it and your atty will be clean up by use (heating process can break the mold and with clean burning liquid the atty can be like new.

BAM! - you just covered it all. This gets to be so tedious answer the same question or two over and over again about Kanger BCC stuff. That scenario you cite when someone picks up their formerly "working great!" new coil ProTank and the next morning it's an ugly, non functional mess - happens all too often.

The worst other offender I see all the time is running a coil too hot, just because you can. Once you crud up a coil and wick out the gate and it's gone harsh you can't "un-burnt" it by dropping the voltage after the fact. It will never be right until the yark is removed.

Rick, how much are you loving that Reo man? I can never get enough of mine!

I love it when it's behaving. It's a used 14500 version and it's acting a bit flaky. Something about the switch is giving spastic voltage drops. Cleaning the battery contact isn't the source of the problem or the fix. Need to go research what to disassemble and how to thoroughly clean what else is in the circuit path.
 

Iken

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BAM! - you just covered it all. This gets to be so tedious answer the same question or two over and over again about Kanger BCC stuff. That scenario you cite when someone picks up their formerly "working great!" new coil ProTank and the next morning it's an ugly, non functional mess - happens all too often.

The worst other offender I see all the time is running a coil too hot, just because you can. Once you crud up a coil and wick out the gate and it's gone harsh you can't "un-burnt" it by dropping the voltage after the fact. It will never be right until the yark is removed.



I love it when it's behaving. It's a used 14500 version and it's acting a bit flaky. Something about the switch is giving spastic voltage drops. Cleaning the battery contact isn't the source of the problem or the fix. Need to go research what to disassemble and how to thoroughly clean what else is in the circuit path.
Exactly right! Running too hot is always abad thing and causes too much stress. I'm not really an advocate for raising nic but if someone wants to run hot, they are usually chasing a higher level of 'feel' with more heat comes a more powerful feel, but if thats the case, heightening nic may be the best option for some folk. Ugh I had an issue with the 14500 version. It's just not enough. I think J5 is right by fortifying the connection. I just didn't think the amperage was enough for satisfaction. My sexy green and black one has been sitting in the vapebox for the better part of two years now? I loved the 18650 but eventually upgraded to the overpriced VV version. 200 is a bit high imo. but it works.

On mine that have that problem I found it was the battery not making good enough contach so I put a bump of solder on them and haven't had that problem any more. On the ones I could bend it out just a bit I did that instead. I hate having battery contact issues.
Thats ingenious J5! I never thought there was a break in the connection. I might have to dig it out someday to try it, but 14500 just doesn't fit the bill for me anymore.
 

Switched

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Well nuts to you! lol

I have to use 100 VG - I'm full blown allergic to PG. So there. I just stuck an I06 in a Vmod XL and I'm not having the leaky gloopy problems the OP is having. And it's feeding my "gravy style" VG from The Vapor Room fine so...

Seriously, the I06 is working a hella lot better than those "special" Vapage attys. (When I run across someone who actually likes those things I'll get back to you.) They seemed to be boiling juice rather than creating vapor, even at 2.0 ohms. Just nasty, "metallic" flavor was coming off that thing. It's really hard to describe the experience - other than "wrong." Every so often that atty did something I could only describe as backfiring. I would hear a soft "pop" and get a sensation of a hot vapor bubble blowing up in it. It was getting scary.

The draw was terrible too. So, ok - blame my VG. I don't care. All I can tell you is the draw on the I06 is just plain - normal.

Either I got a bad Vapage atty with my Vmod. Or it's just a great idea with a bad design behind it. Having compared the two there's no way I'm going back for a second bite at the Vapage atty's. And I'm gonna keep sticking 100 VG in the I06 and I like it. So neener. :pervy:

Reo Mini should be in my vape mail today. So we'll see how that goes with an I06.

Beg to differ on that, Switched. ;) Bottom feeders excel w/high VG an is often why people get BFs. I'm pretty sure the maker of the REO is a 100% VG vaper in fact.......

anyway, I moved to BFs because I am high VG vaper, could not get the stuff to go right in punched cartos w/tanks or clearos with wicks, gunked everyting up. But did not want to drip by hand into atty, so BFs were a godsend.

Little late to the party I have been busy...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ikenvape/142394-equipment-longevity-vg-liquids.html

Back in the day that post was written and before the Reo and Vapage had hit the street, it was not uncommon for folks who used 100% VG or even high concentrations of (undiluted VG) to experience problems with their gear or pre-mature failures of their atties and cartos, and yes Isaac and I had exchanged at length on the subject. It can be said that although VG did not hamper performance in atties as it did in cartos, it did nonetheless.

VG doesn't volatilize at the same rate as PG, it is but an adequate carrier of our components, notwithstanding a God send to folks who are sensitive to PG, who otherwise would have had to return to the stinkies. (not a good thing) IMO VG (pure and undiluted) doesn't allow proper homogenization of our liquid's components, whereas we vape the flavour and nicotine components but only part of the carrier (VG). Back in the day of dripping (which seems to be a lost art these days) it was not uncommon to over drip, caused by the lack of flavour or vapour production in our vape, although the atty was sufficiently saturated. The atty was usually sluggish and the draw tighter at this stage. One would blow out the (what I termed) "spent" liquid and we would good to go again. Now about spent liquid.

Although I/we were vaping a relatively clear liquid, the spent liquid that was blown in a tissue was a med to dark brown residue (containing high carbons), which no longer volatilized. As can be seen when adding dark and high sugar content to this scenario, it exacerbates the problem exponentially because the coil becomes encrusted with these sugars and in turn your atty is now making caramel for lack of a better word.

IMHO although our equipment has improved somewhat, the basics haven't changed over the years. We still see hear folks disappointed with their cartos whether encased in a tank or not who insist on vaping Bobas Bounty with them. Sorry duh :facepalm: your device simply ain't wicking fast enough for your vaping style.

It goes without saying that a lot of mis-information circulates the forums and gets repeated. The majority of which is unintentional e.g get rid of the top two (floating) wicks in your Protank. Why? Are you having wicking problems? or Were you having wicking problems? e.g dry hits? Customer no. Then why did you remove them (POed because now he has a gurgly and leaking PT). I saw it on YouTube or someone mentioned it on the forums.

In closing our equipment was built around PG liquids, although since those days manufacturers are taking into account that some folks vape high VG concentrations (not because of need) to produce "clouds of vapour". Their is a price to pay for those clouds of vapour, not just in equipment longevity but the reluctance of establishments to permit interior vaping because of the ensuing clouds (California). Heck we never produced clouds when we were smoking, so what is the fixation these days. That my daddy is stronger than your daddy?

As stated in the link I dilute all my VG by 20% with distilled water. When compared against my PG liquid folks would not know the difference with the exception that it is on the label. I mix at 70/30 and 30/70 and have not had any reported equipment failures that where attributed to the liquid. Even 100% VG flows like PG.

The aforementioned convo Isaac and I had in the day rel;ated to dripping and cartos. High VG concentrated liquids came to market from the US to prevent leaking caused by over dripping. As read here, the high concentration of VG was partly responsible for the problem, folks didn't believe it then and don't believe it now, but a fact nonetheless. This practice also led to premature failure of atomizers.

Where the proof is in the pudding is.... the invention of the drip shield :) A great device for sure, used by over drippers. A properly dripped 901 doesn't require a drip shield. I will conceed that it is the hardest atty to drip on, but once mastered, you can successfully drip on any atty without problem. A 901 required 6 priming drops, fired for 2 seconds, add one more drop and vape 6 puffs. The 6th was a little on the weak side, add one more drop = good for 6 more draws = 1 cigarette. Smoke break now over, place in your pocket and when ready to vape again add a drop to the atty.

Bridgeless atomizers :lol: leaked like seaves, why? You removed the greatest portion of the wick, flooding the cup and subsequently a leaky atty. Ya see the briged was designed to take the liquid from the cart and hold in suspension in the wick (SS mesh) the coil wick wicked the liquid from the main mesh to provide adequate vapourization at the coil, not a coil operating in a semi flooded or flooded state.

In my most humblest of opinions, it is indeed sad that folks only hear what they want to hear, vice what they need to hear, and then wonder why vets no longer post.
 

Iken

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Little late to the party I have been busy...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ikenvape/142394-equipment-longevity-vg-liquids.html

Back in the day that post was written and before the Reo and Vapage had hit the street, it was not uncommon for folks who used 100% VG or even high concentrations of (undiluted VG) to experience problems with their gear or pre-mature failures of their atties and cartos, and yes Isaac and I had exchanged at length on the subject. It can be said that although VG did not hamper performance in atties as it did in cartos, it did nonetheless.

VG doesn't volatilize at the same rate as PG, it is but an adequate carrier of our components, notwithstanding a God send to folks who are sensitive to PG, who otherwise would have had to return to the stinkies. (not a good thing) IMO VG (pure and undiluted) doesn't allow proper homogenization of our liquid's components, whereas we vape the flavour and nicotine components but only part of the carrier (VG). Back in the day of dripping (which seems to be a lost art these days) it was not uncommon to over drip, caused by the lack of flavour or vapour production in our vape, although the atty was sufficiently saturated. The atty was usually sluggish and the draw tighter at this stage. One would blow out the (what I termed) "spent" liquid and we would good to go again. Now about spent liquid.

Although I/we were vaping a relatively clear liquid, the spent liquid that was blown in a tissue was a med to dark brown residue (containing high carbons), which no longer volatilized. As can be seen when adding dark and high sugar content to this scenario, it exacerbates the problem exponentially because the coil becomes encrusted with these sugars and in turn your atty is now making caramel for lack of a better word.

IMHO although our equipment has improved somewhat, the basics haven't changed over the years. We still see hear folks disappointed with their cartos whether encased in a tank or not who insist on vaping Bobas Bounty with them. Sorry duh :facepalm: your device simply ain't wicking fast enough for your vaping style.

It goes without saying that a lot of mis-information circulates the forums and gets repeated. The majority of which is unintentional e.g get rid of the top two (floating) wicks in your Protank. Why? Are you having wicking problems? or Were you having wicking problems? e.g dry hits? Customer no. Then why did you remove them (POed because now he has a gurgly and leaking PT). I saw it on YouTube or someone mentioned it on the forums.

In closing our equipment was built around PG liquids, although since those days manufacturers are taking into account that some folks vape high VG concentrations (not because of need) to produce "clouds of vapour". Their is a price to pay for those clouds of vapour, not just in equipment longevity but the reluctance of establishments to permit interior vaping because of the ensuing clouds (California). Heck we never produced clouds when we were smoking, so what is the fixation these days. That my daddy is stronger than your daddy?

As stated in the link I dilute all my VG by 20% with distilled water. When compared against my PG liquid folks would not know the difference with the exception that it is on the label. I mix at 70/30 and 30/70 and have not had any reported equipment failures that where attributed to the liquid. Even 100% VG flows like PG.

The aforementioned convo Isaac and I had in the day rel;ated to dripping and cartos. High VG concentrated liquids came to market from the US to prevent leaking caused by over dripping. As read here, the high concentration of VG was partly responsible for the problem, folks didn't believe it then and don't believe it now, but a fact nonetheless. This practice also led to premature failure of atomizers.

Where the proof is in the pudding is.... the invention of the drip shield :) A great device for sure, used by over drippers. A properly dripped 901 doesn't require a drip shield. I will conceed that it is the hardest atty to drip on, but once mastered, you can successfully drip on any atty without problem. A 901 required 6 priming drops, fired for 2 seconds, add one more drop and vape 6 puffs. The 6th was a little on the weak side, add one more drop = good for 6 more draws = 1 cigarette. Smoke break now over, place in your pocket and when ready to vape again add a drop to the atty.

Bridgeless atomizers :lol: leaked like seaves, why? You removed the greatest portion of the wick, flooding the cup and subsequently a leaky atty. Ya see the briged was designed to take the liquid from the cart and hold in suspension in the wick (SS mesh) the coil wick wicked the liquid from the main mesh to provide adequate vapourization at the coil, not a coil operating in a semi flooded or flooded state.

In my most humblest of opinions, it is indeed sad that folks only hear what they want to hear, vice what they need to hear, and then wonder why vets no longer post.
Now that is the Stwitcher's voice of reason we all know and love. Great job!!
GIF_zpsecca897c.gif
 

Switched

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Thank you Isaac and Johnny 5,

As stated previously as a vendor I can not openly discuss certain aspects, and I respect ECF rules. OTOH I hate that because i choose to become a vendor I am ltd in my responses.

IKV was a home and will always be a home AFAIC. That being said, I will always support the facts without putting my own account in jeopardy. WRT Isaac, he knows and has welcomed me as a vendor to discuss matters in his forum. I am sure the day my opinions jeopardize his beliefs/business practices I will be politely, asked to leave. Which I will oblige :)
 
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