IC for 500mA and up usb charging?

[0xDeadC0de]

Does anybody know if there's an IC that allows ultra fast charging of li-ion batteries? Preferably one made by a company that will send free 'samples' to students?


Now I realize the specs say you should only be able to get 500mA tops from a usb port, but from what I've been reading a lot of companies are cheap and to save money on multi-port systems only put one limiter on that kicks in when all ports go over the max amount for all ports (For example, I have 4 usb ports, so the limiter might kick in when a little over 2A is drawn)

I'm thinking about getting some 3000mAh trustfires and putting them into a custom box with a usb port.. if I ever figure out how to do usb ports without blowing up batteries (I hear they require an extra circuit besides the charging circuit to protect the charging circuit if the battery is put in backwards?)

I've got a couple MAX1555's in the mail, but they are limited to 100mAh, charging a 3000mAh over usb with one of them would take a LONG time...

 

[MahBohMan]

no such thing as ultra fast lithium ion charging technique, they require a certain process. If you have a ultra fast charger, you're not getting 100% charge more than likely you're only getting around 70% battery capacity by these bullcrap fast chargers. This isn't my opinion, the correct way to charge lithium ion batteries is out there just do some diggin

 

[tdh]

I am looking for the same thing. Pls post if you find something. I think that 750ma is about the slowest I would use.

 

[0xDeadC0de]

well, a usb port by spec should give a max of 500mAh (Though reality rarely mirrors specification, like I said before in my post it wouldn't be surprising to be able to draw 2A or more from a usb port on a computer with no other devices attached) if 4.7v is coming off, if it's 4.6v then 100mAh is the max that can be used. I'd be happy with just the 500mAh.

Until I find an IC capable of automatically switching, or figure out how to make a circuit that does (I'm learning how to make circuits in this whole project here, and my mind has started to expand/explode it's cool ) I'll probably end up using the A/C(DC) input on the max1555 to do the main charging, then keep it hooked up to usb while I'm at one and use that 100mAh to try and keep it near full charge.

If I figure it out, or if you figure it out before me tdh, I'll let you know if you will let me know .

 

[CraigHB]

I'm building a mod that uses a 5V 2A wall wart to charge at 1A. Since the limit on most USB connecters is 500mA, I'm using a 2.1/5.5mm barrel connector. Here's the chip I'm using. Haven't wired it up yet so I can't say how well it works. I'll be giving it a try pretty soon.

I haven't yet found a charge management chip with a higher fast charge rate, but if using a smaller battery, the rate is programable on this chip.

 

[WillyB]

I'm building a mod that uses a 5V 2A wall wart to charge at 1A. Since the limit on most USB connecters is 500mA, I'm using a 2.1/5.5mm barrel connector.

USB 2.0 standard-A connectors are rated at 1500 mA.

 

[Sci]

How to charge Lithium Ion batteries from Battery University.

Lots of info on Li-ion batteries from Wikipedia.

Battery Charge Management chips from Ti.com. You are wanting to use a USB, check the USB box in the 'select device parameters' & look through the results. Look closely at the size of the chips that interest you, some of them can be very tiny!

Battery charger ICs from Maxim. Once again, use the parametric selection controls to narrow down the search to what you need. Maxim chips tend(the ones I've gotten) to be even smaller than Ti's chips, so pay close attention to the size.

The reason I linked Ti & Maxim, both offer samples.

 

[tdh]

How to charge Lithium Ion batteries from Battery University.

Lots of info on Li-ion batteries from Wikipedia.

Battery Charge Management chips from Ti.com. You are wanting to use a USB, check the USB box in the 'select device parameters' & look through the results. Look closely at the size of the chips that interest you, some of them can be very tiny!

Battery charger ICs from Maxim. Once again, use the parametric selection controls to narrow down the search to what you need. Maxim chips tend(the ones I've gotten) to be even smaller than Ti's chips, so pay close attention to the size.

The reason I linked Ti & Maxim, both offer samples.

Thanks for the links. I had already tried TI. They have over 30 ICs that meet my criteria except that they are all way smaller than I can solder. I am leaning toward a qfn package and a break-out board with a socket so that it could just snap in. It's expensive that way, though.

Something like this or this but about 99% cheaper.

 

[tdh]

How to charge Lithium Ion batteries from Battery University.

Lots of info on Li-ion batteries from Wikipedia.

Battery Charge Management chips from Ti.com. You are wanting to use a USB, check the USB box in the 'select device parameters' & look through the results. Look closely at the size of the chips that interest you, some of them can be very tiny!

Battery charger ICs from Maxim. Once again, use the parametric selection controls to narrow down the search to what you need. Maxim chips tend(the ones I've gotten) to be even smaller than Ti's chips, so pay close attention to the size.

The reason I linked Ti & Maxim, both offer samples.

Thanks for the links. I had already tried TI. They have over 30 ICs that meet my criteria except that they are all way smaller than I can solder. I am leaning toward a qfn package and a break-out board with a socket so that it could just snap in. It's expensive that way, though.

Something like this or [url="http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/1806186-adapter-socket-16-qfn-16-dip-ae-qfn16u.htm"l]this [/url] but about 99% cheaper.

 

[Sci]

How about something like this? USB Charger Board.

 

[CraigHB]

USB 2.0 standard-A connectors are rated at 1500 mA.

I haven't been able to find any board mount receptacles with a rating over 500ma. You got any links?

 

[bobrez]

How about something like this? USB Charger Board.

Nice find only 2 left now, What shucks is 1 month shiping sheeezzze.

 

[Sci]

I've been looking for them in other places to no avail. You can also take the board(with usb & 510 connector) out one of these ~ 510 USB charger No Cable & use it. The price might be a little higher, but you'll have it in a few days.

 

[CapeCAD]

I haven't been able to find any board mount receptacles with a rating over 500ma. You got any links?

These are rated at 1A from Digikey Micro USB and Digikey USB-A

 

[0xDeadC0de]

I just got the Maxim 1551 and 1555 ic's in the mail.. I wish I had started this thread and got some of these great responses before I went and ordered them (Yay for samples anyway )
Yeah they are WAY to small. I have no idea how I could possibly connect them to anything, I'm afraid if I sneeze near the chip I might lose it.. they're about the size of Washington's nose on a us quarter....

I probably will end up getting other samples before I'm done here, but I really want to figure out how to use these micro devices that I've already got.

How would one normally go about connecting these tiny devices for a prototype without machines and a lab? My thought was to use some really sticky tape, put 5 wires onto the tape spaced exactingly, then tape it to the ic and use super glue around it.. that should give me some leads to solder to.
***********edit
Right after I posted that I found sot23 to dip adapters. 95 cents.

 

[WillyB]

Right after I posted that I found sot23 to dip adapters. 95 cents.

A helpful modder always post links.

You still got to solder those.

 

[CraigHB]

Thanks for the link on those connectors CapeCAD.

Small components are not necessarily a problem. All the electronics stuff I do myself is surface mount on PCBs. I had already done several projects before I discovered vaping. Of course, now I have a couple vaping projects. I can go pretty small in making my own boards, but once I get under 1mm pitch between traces, I need to have them made. I use ExpressPCB for that, they have good rates for proto boards.

I've been soldering the .5mm pitch QFP, SOT, and SOP stuff under a 10x stereo microscope with a .01" tip and .015" 63/37 solder. Comes out pretty nice actually. I never thought I could do the DFN stuff since it has contacts, not leads, but I just did one for the first time the other day and it came out fine (TI Li-Ion charger front end). Though, if they start doing stuff smaller than DFN, I'm going to be out of luck. That's definitely the smallest I can do without going to a full on manufacturing process. The QFP/SOT/SOP stuff may be very small, but it's still easy to solder manually with the right setup and seems to be going by the wayside. Really wish it would stick around, that DFN stuff is a real pain.

You can also reflow solder stuff yourself in a toaster oven, it's not that hard to do. Though, I prefer using the .01" tip under a microscope. The components can float if you don't get the reflow paste right. Plus, it can be easy to get things too hot with a toaster oven. Things stay much cooler with a good adjustable temperature iron.

 

[0xDeadC0de]

sot23 to dip adapter

Though I'm going to try Craig's method, will have to get some tools together to do that... the adapter is 1 inch by 3/4 inch.

And yeah, still have to solder them.

 

[WillyB]

I haven't been able to find any board mount receptacles with a rating over 500ma. You got any links?

I had got that info from Wikipedia.

In Battery Charging Specification,[36] new powering modes are added to the USB specification. A host or hub Charging Downstream Port can supply a maximum of 1.5 A when communicating at low-bandwidth or full-bandwidth, a maximum of 900 mA when communicating at high-bandwidth, and as much current as the connector will safely handle when no communication is taking place; USB 2.0 standard-A connectors are rated at 1500 mA by default. A Dedicated Charging Port can supply a maximum of 1.8 A of current at 5.25 V. A portable device can draw up to 1.8 A from a Dedicated Charging Port. The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200 Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification.

Trying to read the actual document that was footnoted was beyond me.

There are a number of USB equipped battery packs available that output 1.5A .

 

[CraigHB]

sot23 to dip adapter

Though I'm going to try Craig's method, will have to get some tools together to do that... the adapter is 1 inch by 3/4 inch.

And yeah, still have to solder them.

At one point, a long time ago, I was doing thru-hole stuff. After working with SMD quite some time now, I can say it's actually easier and faster.

I think most hobbyists prefer to do their own reflow soldering, but I'm one of the few that still likes to use an iron. If you go that route, use a soldering station with an adjustable temperature. I use a Weller WESD51 myself. With the .015" 63/37 wire solder, I like to work mostly with a setting of 575F. I run up to 625F when soldering pads with ground plane vias. Keep the tip very clean. If it starts getting discolored at all, retin and wipe with a wet sponge.

Like reflow soldering, you need something to hold components in place. With reflow, the solder paste does that job. With an iron, I use a flux pen to put down a layer on the pads to sort of glue the component in place. The flux is liquid at first, but hardens after it's been exposed to air for a while.

Desoldering braid is also very handy for cleaning up over-solder like if you accidently solder two pins together. I don't think I could to the small pitch stuff without it. You need various gauges from finest to medium.

You'll need a good pair of tweezers. I picked up a couple pair perfect for the task from a beading supply shop. They're actually designed for putting knots in fine wire and thread.

You normally want to clean off the flux when done soldering. It comes off easily with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a somewhat stiff brush. A regular flux brush works well. You can use "no-clean" flux in both pen and core to avoid that, but the activated stuff works better. Cleaning it off is not a big deal to me.

Here's a photo of my latest project in its current state to give you an idea what you can do without too much expense. All of the components were soldered with an iron. This is on a 4 layer board so most of the traces are not visible. The cost was quite reasonable to have a small batch of these boards made. The project is testing out great so far, but I still have a lot of firmware to write. Firmware can be very time consuming.