iClear 30 tastes like metal and other troubles vaping

[MelvinTheDude]

On the verge of buying a pack...

Four leaking tanks. Seriously. Two craptastic plastic tanks and two Kanger TS3's out of commission. Those O-rings on the Kanger are wayyy to finicky about overtightening. It's happened so many times no matter how loose I've left them, I'm done with Kanger, period.

I bought an iClear16 which I like a lot better and have had good luck with, but it tastes like perma-mint now no matter how many times I've rinsed it. It's basically mint only. I ordered a 5 pack, but they've been stuck at the Orlando post office for 4 days...

My 400mAh batteries were terrible. Upgraded to an MVP. Hurray! Nice battery. It came with an iClear30. I washed it before using it. It tastes like metal. It's terrible and unenjoyable.

I've spent too damn much in three weeks that I *cannot* spend anymore for the next two weeks. I have new stuff that should help coming in... next week whenever the PO decides to deliver.

So I have two tanks. One tastes like mint and nothing but. One tastes like metal and nothing but. This is not enjoyable. This is stressful and it starting to feel like a damn terrible waste of money.

I need advice. I need working tanks that don't taste freaking terrible.

 

[penstyle]

Usually rinsing with hot water works for me.
But when it is a flavor I dont like I put the tank in vodka or vinegar for a while.
Are the tanks leaking from the outside threads?
Leaking into the battery post?

I have no problem tightening everything down finger tight.
I dont take it easy on them.

What about the coil and wick what are you doing with them?

You better not be out buying a pack.

 

[Simply Red]

Melvin, I feel your pain. Been there, done that.

Tank Solution - Completely take your tanks apart and set the coils off to the side. We'll get back to those. Put all the pieces of your tanks in a small bowl and cover with rubbing alcohol. Yes, rubbing alcohol. Swish, gently, for about 30 seconds and rinse well with water. Let them air dry or you could use compressed air to speed the process and reassemble. Some folks use vodka. I'd be apprehensive using vinegar as vinegar is acidic and could cloud polycarbonate tanks.

Coils - There are plenty of vids on Youtube on how to clean coils or, if you think the coils have the mint/metal to the point of no return, replace them.

Good luck and don't give up. It's for the healthier you. I smoked analogs for over 40 years my self. Had a rough start but got through it. My grandkids are glad I did.

 

[MelvinTheDude]

Usually rinsing with hot water works for me.
But when it is a flavor I dont like I put the tank in vodka or vinegar for a while.
Are the tanks leaking from the outside threads?
Leaking into the battery post?

I have no problem tightening everything down finger tight.
I dont take it easy on them.

What about the coil and wick what are you doing with them?

You better not be out buying a pack.

They are leaking into the battery compartment, straight through the hole in the atomizer. I rinsed one of the Kangers out and a big chunk of wick landed in the sink. I had seen reviews that Kanger sometimes doesn't do a good job of packing the wick in to prevent leaking through, but this is the third atomizer with the same problem. Shop owner told me I was over tightening and busting the bottom O-ring. I was really careful not to. It still happened.

Red- I'll keep digging. If you're specifically talking about dry burning, does that still work with top coil?

 

[penstyle]

Sounds like the top wick fell off and now there is not enough material there to stop it from leaking.
Also the wick is made up of many small strands. Rinsing could be rinsing away those strands too.
Just some ideas.

Some people turn the grommet, donut thing(cant think of name) upside down. It is on the chimney as they call it. And this helps too.

You should look into rewicking the coil with cotton.

 

[backitdown]

I can only address the Iclear30- As stated above- give it good cleaning and dry burn - which is so easy with is this model. Take it easy on the wicks when cleaning or they will unravel. This tank does not like to be filled past the bottom wick or it will seep into the center tube. When full -it likes to be in a vertical position or fluid may get into the tube. Once the tank has been drained a bit it is not so finicky. I use a 50/50 mix and it wicks beautifully.

 

[penstyle]

Here is a kanger style and an aro, you can see the white cap around the chimneys one is up one down.
This may not help with your wick but will if the leak is in this area.

 

[Simply Red]

Red- I'll keep digging. If you're specifically talking about dry burning, does that still work with top coil?

Yes. This guy does a pretty good job. http://youtu.be/594DdLiK8jw
Something I meant to ask, what pg/vg ratio are you using? Sorry it took so long to get back to ya. My bed time rolled around.

 

[MelvinTheDude]

View attachment 320559
Here is a kanger style and an aro, you can see the white cap around the chimneys one is up one down.
This may not help with your wick but will if the leak is in this area.

Specifically it's the bottom o ring that goes into the 510, although I don't really understand how it makes it leak into the center hole. I've spent hours hearing different theories and how to fix it including:

1. Kanger doesn't do a good job filling the atomizer chamber with wick
2. I'm overtightening and destroying the o-ring
3. I puff on it too often/hard and flood the atomizer
4. I don't have all the rings in place

I've checked or made serious attempts to control for 2-4 on a new tank and still failed. I guess it might be time to learn how to rewick. But that o-ring at the bottom isn't sitting flat still... I don't know.

And instead of running out and buying a pack last night, I just had some Mint-aindew. It's acceptable.

 

[penstyle]

If you are talking about the small white part under the center pin on the coil housing... I would say wrong place.
But make sure the center pin is flush with the white part.
If you are talking about the o ring on the underside of the coil housing that screws onto the ego base.
Make sure it stays in place and finger tighten to the ego base.

Otherwise, leaks can happen in these places.
The chimney can come loose, but you should be able to see that.
The chimney white cap is not sealing to the tube in the atty, some people turn the cap upside down for better seal.
The coil/chimney unit is not screwed all the way into the ego base.
Not enough wick material sticking out of the coil to fill the void between the bottom of the chimney and the coil housing.
All I can think of right now.

The Kanger Evods and mini Protank 2's are the only ones I am not having a problem with at the moment.
Good luck to you.

 

[penstyle]

510 vs ego threads
View attachment 320978

 

[MelvinTheDude]

If you are talking about the small white part under the center pin on the coil housing... I would say wrong place.
But make sure the center pin is flush with the white part.
If you are talking about the o ring on the underside of the coil housing that screws onto the ego base.
Make sure it stays in place and finger tighten to the ego base.

Otherwise, leaks can happen in these places.
The chimney can come loose, but you should be able to see that.
The chimney white cap is not sealing to the tube in the atty, some people turn the cap upside down for better seal.
The coil/chimney unit is not screwed all the way into the ego base.
Not enough wick material sticking out of the coil to fill the void between the bottom of the chimney and the coil housing.
All I can think of right now.

The Kanger Evods and mini Protank 2's are the only ones I am not having a problem with at the moment.
Good luck to you.

View attachment 320977

That was the problem. I tore apart one of the cheap-o atomizers from the orginal tanks and tore the wick out of it to replace the non-existent flavor wick that came with the Kanger. Leaked solved! I let a vape store employee trump my instincts.

 

[penstyle]

That is good.
Hope you keep reading so you can stay on top of any future problems.

Guess I missed the whole obvious missing top wick scenario.
But I have been using cotton wick through the coil with no wick on top.
The cotton kinda plumps up more filling the void.

 

[MelvinTheDude]

Leak solver, but I think I might have put too much wick on top and the whole thing tastes bad, a little burnt. My other Kanger is still leaking. I'm about to order some Kanthal and silica wick along with an RDA so I can repair everything and make it work better than the factory can! Yeehaw.

I can't get the metal taste out of the iClear30, so that's dead in the water.

 

[rowdyplace]

My way of cleaning my T3s coils and other cheap atty's. Old folks denture tablets in warm water. Yep, place the coil assembly (and even the Ce4/Ce5 atty's with mouth tip removed) into a cup of reasonably warm water with one of these tablets and let sit overnight. The next day, rinse in fresh hot water - several times - and dry with a hair dryer, or other means. Quick dry burn 2 or 3 times just to clear the residual little bit of crap from the coil. Now, you should be ready to go. Mine taste just like new. I have done several of the T3s coils at least 5 times each. As soon as I notice the vaper decrease, I swap out for a cleaned one.

Also, never over fill and never let the juice get too low.