If I was near a cliff, I would throw my aga t2 off of it...

[Ebertshay]

Hi everyone, I'm not actually as mad as the title makes it seem haha, just frustrated with my aga.
i have been successfully rebuilding my reomizer and my trident for several months, both working awesome. And periodically I come back to my aga and give her another chance, but time after time... No luck.
im starting to think maybe me and genesis style tanks just simply don't mix.
at first I thought maybe I just needed more experience with rbas, but I now build perfectly on my other devices on the first try every time, but on the aga, never once have I had a single success. I realllllly want it to work but I just can't seem to.

soooo, ive kinda come to two possible conclusions, either 1. Genesis is not for me, or 2. There is something wrong with my aga.
i just don't want to buy another genesis only to run into the same problem again.
i don't know what kind of advice I'm even looking for, perhaps I just needed to rant... Haha feeling a little better already.

was thinking maybe a kayfun or Russian 91% might be a good option for me.
Not that I don't loooove my reo, cause I do just would like some kinda tank as well...
Anyways I'm open to input but mostly just needed to get my frustration out....
anyone want an agat2? If you see a guy on top of a cliff you might just catch one haha

 

[300fury]

Never tried to set up a genesis, but I too love my reo.... But that being said I just picked up a nemesis clone and a kfl+ clone by ehpro and I am loving it. Think I am gonna pick up a Russian soon. The kfl+ is super easy to set up you shouldn't have any trouble

 

[300fury]

Holy crap dude just realized you are from rochester, nice to meet ya. Usually I see people walkin around with blus and other garbage and none of them have givin up smoking

 

[Lessifer]

what kind of a setup are you trying to build in the aga? I never liked ss mesh wicks. I found some success with micro coil/cotton in my aga-t2, but it was never as good as a simple dripper setup.

 

[mad maori]

genesis are awesome!!! but you do gotta get the right ones... the wick hole on the aga-t and even the rsst is to far away from the positive post thus giving you higher chance of "hot legs".. make sure your wick is oxidized enough.. also a piece of eco wool on top, then wrap coil will mean no more hot spots...stainless steel rope and eco... thats why i love dripping, dont gotta worry about it!!!

 

[Annie56]

If you want to revisit that beast, with ss mesh, here's what I would do--

Either go with a solid wick, that fits loose in the wick hole, or a straw mesh rolled onto an Allen key. Torch the sheet of mesh good once before rolling. Once after. About 4 juice burns.

If you do a straw wick, keep it on the Allen key. Or do a solid wick. Some people can get the right tension on the coil by winding on the atty. I cannot. So what I do is wind the coil on the wick, OFF the atty. I roll my mesh and leave it on whatever Allen key allows me to slide the wick in to the wick hole easily.

It is sort of Petar K-ish, because you are getting a precisely wound coil. But you are also ensuring good wick to wire contact.

I attach the top lead first, pulling on the wick AWAY from the pos pin. Whether you attach the lead wire clockwise, or counter, there is always going to be increased tension when you tighten the nuts on the top. Pulling away counters this tension. Makes working out that top wrap hot spot a little easier.

Even up wraps. Attach neg lead. Coil should be even, with even tension along the wick, and at the pos and neg leads. Don't trim the excess wires yet.

If you can picture yourself making and installing a horizontal coil on an RDA, this is no different of a coil at all.

Pulse it out. If I find that I wound too tight or loose, I undo the neg lead and loosen or tighten tension along the coil.

I would go with a 4/3 or 5/4 of 30 or 28. 32 is a dud, unless you have a vv/vw.

I hope this helps. My gennie builds were hit or miss for a good while. When I started coiling off the atty, I was more successful. The whole fill screw and vertical wicking thing--if i am in the 1.5-2.0Ω range, it works well for me. But I really like 0.5-0.6Ω , so i am still trying to find the right amount of mesh that will give me a decent throat hit. Trying 325 100mm in the Dids.

Ehuman's blog.

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[WattWick]

Don't do it, man! We can talk this through!

Annie has it covered. Personally I prefer coiling with wick in place, but that's just "what works for me". Both ways, if done with some practice, will yield a fully working end result.

Just wanted to add a couple of quirks the Aga T2 has.

First of all, make sure the deck itself is firmly attached to the center post so that it won't come loose. Also, if you have a top cap that is overly tight, do not "unscrew" the cap in the direction that will loosen the deck. This will adjust your coils to adverse effect. Always pull the cap straight off. Or, if you absolutely must "unscrew" it... do so in the direction that tightens the deck, not loosens it.

Secondly, the center post. Remove all the nuts from it and push it up until it's firmly seated in the 510 connector. Then add one nut and tighten it. Not so much that the bottom part that resides inside the 510 connector gets pulled up excessively, tho. You want it just tight to the point where it does not squash the insulator, yet tight enough to avoid being moved around by pressure from your mods center post. Add the next nut and tighten that one too. This will help keep the center post from being adjusted when you screw the atty onto a mod. It will also help avoid... when you attach the coil... that you simply screw down all the nuts instead of tightening the top one onto the next. If you see varying resistance, this is most likely your problem.

 

[res]

I've had my aga the for about a year now. Its spent the majority if the time in a box. I played with it for a while but never got it working right.

I've been thinking about giving it another shot. Thanks for the tips!

 

[Annie56]

So i decided to put my money where my mouth is. Got home after graveyard, and dug out my FAKE Aga T2 from Fasttech, with 3 crappy hex nuts as fasteners.

Replaced hex nuts with three little knurled nuts from Aga S's. Stock wick hole is wayyy too small.

70 mm 400 mesh solid i got to fit. Puny wick. Did a stupid and tried a 0.6Ω 4/3 28g coil. Got it to light up just fine. Nice and bright. Juice was a fail, not enough wicking!!

Next, i did a 5/4 30g. Initially 1.2Ω. Popped the coil.

Recoiled. This time i got it to pulse out really nice. Burned some juice. Not wicking really great, but the vape tastes good. 50/50 pgvg. Waiting for my drill to recharge so i can drill out airhole to 1/16.

Coil lights up from the inside out.

Yes i initially tried to do this using the pulse method, with raw mesh. Because, i'm an idiot...

Ended up with 1.5Ω. Sony Vtc4 greeney batteries.


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[Elizabeth Baldwin]

It took me many, many tries to get my AGA set up right. I do mean many tries. Also I had to drill out a bigger air hole. One thing is to fully oxidize your mesh. It makes a huge difference.

I have 2 Kayfuns and a Russian as well. I tend to use the Russian and Kayfuns 99% of the time. I like my AGA and can build it good now, I just think the Russian/Kayfun gives better flavor overall. The genesis styles are great once you get it going right.

 

[WattWick]

@Annie,

You tried 500 mesh in the Aga T2? Not sure, but I think that may be what made it possible for mine to wick properly with a stock wick hole. I don't go quite as low in resistance as you, tho. Usually at 0.8, give or take 0.1.

 

[Annie56]

@ Wattwick, i tried 500, a few times. I don't like working with it, because it is so thin. Question--does coarser mesh (eg 270) provide more throat hit?? Because if it does, then i am going to try to find some 10cm by 10cm sheets of it. And run solid wicks in my Dids. I like sub-ohm on the Dids, because i use mech mods. If i had a ProVari, I would prob do 1.0-1.9Ω range, and up the volts. I have to tilt some, with the sub ohm builds, to keep up w wicking. But if i had a solid 325 or 270 in the Dids, to keep up wicking a 0.5-0.6Ω coil, i am thinking thats gonna be a sweet spot for me! Thank You in advance!

I tried pulse method, 3 more times. After posting today. Popped two coils. Got a coil to fire decently with raw mesh on the AgaT2. When you start pulsing, the coil leads seem to contract w the immense heat. I am going to play with it some more, when i get up for work, then see how it vapes. Then throw it off a cliff

this was a 1.2Ω coil 5/4 30g. I don't know if a sub ohm coil would work /c stock wick hole

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[steel bender]

I challenge you to wrap your coil around the wick, in place on your aga-t2 and try to see just how loose you can possibly make it, while still having it touching the wick at all points and see what happens...

 

[Annie56]

im going to give it one more go, tomorrow, with an oxidized wick. If it does not go, im putting it back into the vault.


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[Myk]

You do just need more experience. It took me a few builds but now they're easy.

Have you tried ceramic? I'm not completely thrilled with the wicking of it (I find I have to tilt while my mesh straws will draw up) but that should remove any problem you're probably having (not breaking the ceramic would be a new problem). It's what I use in my TD because dual mesh is a real pain every time you dry burn, and the high voltage of a 1.5Ω dual can burn through the carbon at all the wrong times.

Hot leg? Not here. I don't know what changed. I used to get them and lean the wick over. Now I don't get them. Rather than a washer some people use you can make the wire a little long and bring the tail end around the center post and give a wrap around the leg near the wick.

I wrap with the wick in. I haven't had much luck wrapping around a bit and slipping the wick through. I push each turn down and tighten as I go. After it's done I work any looseness out while pulsing.

 

[Annie56]

i tried coiling on the atty several times. when i attach the top lead, i end up putting too much tension.

Coiling the wick off of the atty seems to work best for me. i attach the top leg, pulling the wick away from the post, as i secure the nuts. Even out the gaps and loops, making sure the coil touches. secure neg lead.

works on the did. someone is sending me a ceramic wick for the did to try


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[emus]

I've had several good builds on AGA-T2.
The AGA has 2 post. Same as IGO-L.
My current build is a horizontal just like IGO-L.
Just slip a wick tail down a deck hole.
Works great.
Can use it tank mode or use it like a dripper or both.
Did I mention I'm using cotton.

 

[Iron]

I just get out my AGA T2 every few months to remind myself why I don't buy any more gennies. They are not for everyone. I've been doing great with my Reos and Kayfuns.

 

[Heavyrocker]

The AGA t is a piece of junk,it has tiny thumb nuts that wont hold the wire down and the posts spins when you try to tighten the nuts.

 

[Myk]

The AGA t is a piece of junk,it has tiny thumb nuts that wont hold the wire down and the posts spins when you try to tighten the nuts.

You need to hold the nut below and then crank the top one down.

I'm glad I'm ambidextrous with sharp tweezers.